The principle of operation of a mosquito lamp for the street: an overview of types and reviews

The long-awaited summer warmth in nature is often overshadowed by hordes of mosquitoes. It’s a pleasant evening and I’d like to spend it in a gazebo or on a bench, but the ubiquitous mosquitoes simply don’t allow me to enjoy the weather. You can’t stock up on sprays and repellents for the whole season, but a mosquito lamp for the street can be an excellent salvation.

Principle of operation

Outdoor mosquito killers operate on the principle of physical impact on insects. This is usually a lamp that emits ultraviolet rays. In the evening and at night, nearby bloodsuckers flock to their light in flocks and, falling on special metal gratings, die from a small electric shock.

Lamps help cope not only with mosquitoes, but also with butterflies and moths. They are even used against flies. Because various representatives of this order also willingly fly towards UV radiation.

Mosquito lamps, depending on the model, have a certain range of action, within which the devices guarantee protection against insects. Based on the attractive effect of UV radiation, they easily cover an area of ​​30-100 square meters. m.

Insecticidal lamps have a slightly different principle of operation: the devices are equipped with reservoirs of gases or heating plates, which create a stable cloud within 4-5 square meters. m. Their action is aimed at both destroying and repelling mosquitoes.

DIY mosquito lamp

If you have electrical skills, you can make a mosquito repellent lamp with your own hands.

For manufacturing you will need the following parts:

  • energy-saving light bulb (can be non-working);
  • high voltage module;
  • AA battery.


    If you do not understand electricity, then it is better not to make a lamp yourself

Algorithm of actions:

  1. We disassemble the light bulb and make two holes.
  2. We thread soft aluminum wire into one of the holes and wind the turns around the lamp. One side is ready. We bite off the wire. Also, on the other side, we thread the wire into the hole and wind it.
  3. Two wires come out of the device, one is connected to an aluminum rod.
  4. All outputs are connected to the high-voltage module. First, connect it to the battery via a switch. We insert it into the lid and solder all the necessary wiring.
  5. Now we solder the battery. We fix it with electrical tape. We glue the housing module with hot glue to better adhere to the device.
  6. Next, we put a housekeeper on the module with a winding to which high voltage is connected. The wires should touch each other.

After turning on the neon light, mosquitoes will fly towards the light from it. And as soon as the insect touches it, it will immediately be shocked. To prevent mosquitoes from falling on the floor and furniture, secure the lid at the bottom.

Video: making a mosquito repellent lamp with your own hands

Advantages and disadvantages

Any device has its advantages in killing mosquitoes, otherwise there would simply be no need for it. In addition, a lamp for exterminating insects is an excellent option to get rid of mosquitoes, whose bites cause itching, swelling and hyperemia. Device:

  • absolutely environmentally friendly. UV radiation does not harm the environment. For comparison: insecticidal lamps (lanterns) release toxic substances into the air. At high concentrations or if basic safety rules are not followed, insecticides may well harm humans or animals nearby;
  • comfortable. There are stationary options powered by the network, and there are mobile ones - powered by batteries or rechargeable batteries;
  • economically. If you treat it with care and follow the operating instructions, the lamp will last for many years, despite the fact that the devices are manufactured primarily in China. For insecticidal products, you will have to buy consumables, which constantly run out at the most inopportune moment of the season;
  • practical. You can choose a lamp designed for different coverage radii. At the same time, the device combines the functions of killing mosquitoes and illuminating the street at night.

A lamp, the principle of which is based on the attraction of UV radiation and the subsequent destruction of mosquitoes by electric current, has the following disadvantages:

  • effective only in the dark. During the day you will still be defenseless;
  • bites cannot be avoided. Mosquitoes fly with pleasure to the bait, but if a person comes across a person along the way, then their instincts work against him: a bite is guaranteed;
  • upon contact, you can receive a small current discharge;
  • requires compliance with certain conditions to prevent the ingress of moisture;
  • destroyed mosquitoes must be removed regularly, otherwise they will spoil the mood with their appearance.

Killing mosquitoes using insecticidal lamps has serious disadvantages:

  • they evaporate harmful substances into the environment and are dangerous to humans and animals;
  • the device that kills mosquitoes has a limited range;
  • consumables quickly disappear on the street.

The principle of operation of an anti-mosquito lamp, types and functions

There are at least 5 types of anti-mosquito lamps for outdoors and indoors. They differ in cost, principle and range, and efficiency.

Ultraviolet lamps with electric grid

The UV lamp is a small housing. Inside there is a source of ultraviolet radiation and an electrical grid. Soft light attracts mosquitoes. They fly towards the lighting. Directly in front of the lamp itself is an open current source. Insects stumble upon the bars and die from a discharge of electricity.

Lamps of this type are completely safe for children and animals, since the current is low. But it is enough to kill even large insects: night hawk moths, wasps, centipedes and large hornets.

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Mosquito lamp with fumigator effect

It's set up pretty much the same way. Only instead of an electric grid, a special surface with a substance applied to it is used. When the element is heated, this substance evaporates and spreads over a distance of several meters from itself. When insects fall into a poisonous cloud, they die from paralysis of the nervous system.

It is not recommended to install such devices at home, since indoors the concentration of the toxic component is higher. They are safe for people and animals, but with prolonged effects on the body, mild poisoning with dizziness, nausea and other unpleasant symptoms is possible.

Mosquito repellent lamp

It works in exactly the same way as a device with a fumigator effect, but it sprays not a toxic component, but a repellent - a substance that is unpleasant for insects. As soon as they approach the target, the bloodsuckers fly back.

The mosquito repellent lamp has a moderate range of action up to several tens of meters.

Lamp trap with adhesive element

It is based on the same principle: attracting bloodsuckers with the help of light. However, the damaging elements are a special adhesive surface. Having approached, a mosquito or other insect sticks tightly, can no longer get out and dies.

When purchasing a trap of this type, you need to choose models with a replaceable adhesive element.

Combined type outdoor lamp for killing mosquitoes

Uses several components simultaneously. The principle of operation is based on attracting bloodsuckers and other pests using moderate, pleasant light. Other parameters vary.

Lamp overview

Most often, environmentally friendly and relatively safe for humans lamps are used against mosquitoes, based on the attraction and subsequent destruction of insects by electric current. To the point that many craftsmen make them with their own hands. However, industrial designs have earned popularity and are worth the money.

Terminator

Electroshock lamps from the RemiLing brand are called the same - Terminators. Seven modifications are available to buyers, designated in Roman numerals:

I - copes with mosquitoes on an area of ​​up to 30 square meters. m. Turns on from a stationary source of electricity.

II – connects to the network. Capable of covering an area of ​​about 60 square meters. m.

III – provides the functions of a night light and an insect lamp. If necessary, they can be switched or combined. There is a stand-alone mode and charging from the network. Protection – 60 sq. m.

IV – works great in stand-alone mode; there is also a power supply option from the mains. There is protection from rain. Provides coverage, as in the previous two options.

Lamps vary in size and design. Terminators I and II are more laconic, angular, while III and IV already have certain decorative qualities. Each kit includes a brush for cleaning the grille from dead insects, in addition, the last two models are equipped with mains adapters.

There are currently new products on the market:

  • floor-standing, laconic in design home Terminator V, suitable for rooms up to 40 m2. The device is powered by the network;
  • elegant, decorated in the form of artistic forging, VI and VII. These are garden lamps that cover up to 30 m2. The devices operate from the network.

MK

The MK series of lamps from the Banzai brand comes complete with solar panels, although if necessary and with an adapter, they can be connected to a regular outlet.

They have several configurations. The design is close to forged street lamps. Additionally equipped with rods for ground installation. All have handles for hanging on hooks. Effective at a distance of 30 to 60 square meters. m. They are often equipped with two LEDs: with white light for normal illumination of the area and with UV.

Scat

Just like the MK series from Banzai, Stingrays are decorated with several modifications that are very reminiscent of the design of forged street lamps. Equipped with solar panels and freely connected to sockets. The devices are reliably protected from moisture. Equipped with two modes: lighting and mosquito killing. There is an additional possibility of using attractants to attract insects.

Flexible selection allows you to choose the desired model. For example, Skat 21 has a total coverage area of ​​approximately 100 square meters. m., and Skat 23 - 60 sq. m.

Types of insect traps

Insect traps are divided into 3 main types:

  • Electric light - lure insects with their light, after which they kill them with an electric discharge conducted through a metal mesh that surrounds the insect lamp;
  • electric traps for crawling insects - designed to destroy cockroaches and ants using electric current. The insects crawl into the trap and are then electrocuted;
  • adhesive - can be used to kill both flying and crawling insects. Insects are lured to the sticky surface by light or chemicals;
  • chemical - this includes aerosol traps and spirals that emit smoke when ignited. The main disadvantage of such traps is that a person is forced to come into contact with vapors of combustion products or volatile chemical elements;
  • ultrasonic - repels, but does not destroy mosquitoes. Their main advantage is low cost. However, it is worth remembering that ultrasound waves have a harmful effect on the human body.

Terms of use

To use the device correctly, you must carefully follow the instructions.
Especially the point that is definitely recommended for everyday use of each lamp: stay away from the device. The issue is not security.

Light attracts mosquitoes, but if there is a person on the way to the lamp, then there are no obstacles to a bite - body heat, the smell of sweat and carbon dioxide from the lungs will attract more than the most powerful attractant. Not a single mosquito will refuse to eat.

That is why lamps should be placed away from the resting place.

If you decide to destroy mosquitoes in a closed room, then you need to leave it for a while - then they will freely fly to their certain death.

There are also mandatory precautions:

  • Avoid getting water on the electrical grill. If this happens, the device must be turned off and dried, only then turned on again;
  • Do not touch the connected lamp with your hands. The discharge will be small, but unpleasant;
  • keep access to the device away from children and animals.

TOP 3 best models

When you are faced with choosing which electric flytrap is best to buy, first try to simply study the brief characteristics and parameters of each of them, assess the scale of its influence on the room that needs to be protected, on the price, on how to properly use the equipment and on reviews from those buyers who already use such a device. This is the most reliable method before making a final decision regarding a particular flycatcher model. The top 3 models that are the most optimal and effective will help you navigate the market for such products.

KILL-PEST TR-31 30W INSECTICIDE TRAP

  1. Production - South Korea.
  2. Product release - one-way electric flytrap.
  3. Purpose – against flies, moths, wasps, mosquitoes and mosquitoes, gadflies and other flying insects.
  4. How it works – attracting insects with UV light and killing them with a light electric current when the insects land on the device from the side of the lamp.
  5. Dimensions – 500Х100Х300 mm.
  6. Installation weight – 2.5 kg.
  7. Power consumption 30 W.
  8. Gray stainless steel body.
  9. How to install the equipment - suspended from the ceiling or simply installed on any flat, hard surface.
  10. Area coverage – 90 sq.m.
  11. Approximate cost – 11,500 rubles.

​ BUY

Review:

Yaroslava, Tomsk. We always use this flytrap in our kitchen (I work in an elite restaurant in the city center). The installation is very well created! The flies fly in, die, and then we remove the tray that is located at the bottom of the device. The tray is removable, easy to remove and clean. By the way, not only flies end up there, but also all kinds of mosquitoes, wasps and other insects. The trap is just great!

2nd place – Chameleon 1x2

  1. Production - Russia.
  2. Product launch – one-sided electric adhesive flytrap “Chameleon”.
  3. Purpose – against flies, wasps, mosquitoes, bees, gadflies and other flying insects.
  4. How it works - attracting insects with UV light and the smell from the adhesive bait, which at the same time serves as a “trap” for insects when they fly and land on the surface of the plate.
  5. Dimensions – 315x485x65 mm.
  6. Installation weight – 4.3 kg.
  7. UV lamps (“Quantum BL”) operate at a power of 40 W.
  8. Stainless steel body in white and gray.
  9. How to install the equipment - attached to the wall or in a free position with installation on the surface.
  10. Working area coverage – 150 sq.m.
  11. Cost – 25,000 rubles.

​​ BUY

Review:

Olga Stepanovna, Krasnodar region. My husband and I have been farmers for more than 5 years. We constantly encounter such a problem as flies, which often nest either in the pigsty or in the vegetable storehouse. It’s clear that then they fly into the house and don’t give us peace. We have already tried different options for fighting. We immediately abandoned chemicals and are trying to make an environmentally friendly product on the domestic market. But one day I saw such flycatchers on the Internet, and my husband and I decided to order one copy. Delivered quickly, literally three days later we received the parcel. It was easy to install - it was attached to the wall of the vegetable storehouse. The effect was immediately noticed – after 3-4 days. You only need to change the adhesive plates periodically, which you should immediately stock up on when ordering. The setup was great – we loved it! Now we are going to buy 2 more pieces of this brand.

Reviews

As with most outdoor mosquito control devices, the lamps have mixed reviews. This is understandable - it is impossible to destroy all mosquitoes, midges and flies. But most of them are due to incorrect usage:

I live in a private house. My son gave me a mosquito repellent lamp. It's called Terminator. No effect - it shines and shines. I hung it outside as a lantern. The worst thing is when you’re standing next to them – there’s no place left alive. There is a small lake nearby, we already have a lot of them, but it’s not clear how to fight. Nikolai Ivanovich, 45 years old

We bought two lamps two years ago. There were no ordinary ones, but the veranda needed to be decorated with something. And here the design is acceptable. It's called MK-009. With solar panels. It’s very convenient - when we come to the dacha we hang it up, when we leave we hide it. So now you can live on the veranda. We even sometimes stay there overnight when it is very hot. It really helps against mosquitoes. They hang on nails that my husband drove in opposite directions. It’s beautiful and there are almost no mosquitoes. True, you have to clean it - they accumulate there in bunches. Of course, they don’t save you at all, but it’s better than without them. Elena, 25 years old

A pleasant evening outside is possible without chemical repellents. The lamps do not buzz, do not emit unpleasant odors, and work well as night lights. Lamps are often found in hotel parks and recreation areas, and in a country house or dacha, these devices will not only get rid of mosquitoes, but will also add coziness to the area.

Where should the device be placed?

Lamps for killing blood-sucking insects have a range of about 5-60 m2. It all depends on the type of unit. There are several installation recommendations:

  • If you need to protect a room, hang the lamp near a window or on the border of the premises.
  • If you need to protect people on the street, it makes sense to hang the device close to the target location, for example, near a gazebo. A long-range unit should be installed at a medium distance. If you hang it too close, there is a good chance that insects flying by will react to the stimuli coming from the person. Then you can't escape the bite.

There are devices for the street and for the home, as well as for universal use. The first include gas lamps, as well as repellents. Since toxic components in high concentrations can cause poisoning in the inhabitants of the house. They cannot be hung indoors.

In homes, it is recommended to install traps with an electric grid or with an adhesive surface. They are completely safe and environmentally friendly. Does not pose a risk to people or pets.

Combined devices should be evaluated based on their predominant effect. If gas or repellent is involved, you should not use them at home either.

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Lamp for exterminating insects, lamp for mosquitoes. Myth or reality.

Author: Valentin Published 07/19/2012 Created using KotoEd.

The idea of ​​an alternative method of killing insects is not new, but such devices have recently appeared on the market.

I learned from a friend that the Chinese miracle had finally reached our stores. We discussed for a long time how effective it is, and still came to the conclusion that it is a very cool thing and worth buying. Since I often go to the river, I need a portable “lamp” powered by a battery - light and compact!

Having looked at the prices on the Internet, I didn’t want to pay so much money for such squalor, and I would have to order almost from China. It was decided to do it myself and make sure of its effectiveness.

For those who don’t know, I’ll tell you how this anti-mosquito lamp is supposed to work.

Do you know what ultraviolet radiation is? So that’s why someone decided that this very radiation should attract a mosquito, perhaps British scientists, I don’t know.

The idea is this: the lamp shines in the UV spectrum, invisible to us, but insects see it, and they have a terrible interest in flying closer to see what is shining there. A “grid” is stretched around the lamp, to which high voltage is applied. An anxious mosquito flies into the ultraviolet light, stumbles upon the mesh, receives a shock of 1000 volts and dies.

This is a miracle of technology!:

Or this (here a step-up transformer is used as a high-voltage source, and from it through a capacitor to the grid, 2 parts, cheap and cheerful! Just a lot of winding)

And here is how sellers describe the operation of these lamps:

“The energy-saving lamp glows with warm light, emitting in a specially selected spectrum. This factor irresistibly attracts insects to the lamp...”

“The ultraviolet LED glows, emitting in a specially selected 365 nm spectrum. This factor irresistibly attracts insects to the lamp, in the immediate vicinity of which there is a high-voltage grid, where insects die under electric current discharges.”

The idea is as old as time and you can find similar amateur radio designs on the Internet. True, I have not met any that would use a UV radiation source. Therefore, we are dealing with “know-how”!

Let's take a closer look at the UV light source found in the Chinese shredder. There are two UV source options: fluorescent lamp or LED. In general, there is not much difference, it’s just that the luminescent stage requires more bells and whistles, although it costs less. There is only one BUT - the luminescent also shines in the IR, since it heats up and the width of its luminescence spectrum in the UV is much wider than that of an LED. As some have written, this source “shines” with a long wavelength of 390-365 nm.

After reading the literature, we learn that bees, flies and other winged creatures see UV, and somehow react to it. By the way, some birds see it too. There is a chance to catch a big owl. True, nowhere is it written about mosquitoes. In general, we’ll take your word for it! So let's get down to business! Making a portable mosquito killer!

We need:

- a high voltage source, 1000-2000 volts, if higher, you get an ionizer, ozonizer, “generator” of nitrogen oxide;

- UV radiation source;

-mechanical part, namely the so-called “mesh”;

Requirements:

-minimal energy consumption;

-lightweight, small-sized;

-effective;

Let's start with the UV source. A fluorescent lamp is not suitable for us at all - it consumes a lot of electricity and works as a heater. It's glass, it can break, and it's a bit heavy. Therefore, we take a lot of UV LEDs.

Now the high voltage source. It should have maximum efficiency and consume a minimum at idle (before the mosquito gets into the “frying pan”).

Here I spent a long time fencing all sorts of blocking generators, winding the coils, but a current of 200 mA is a lot! It was decided to try to take a cheap microcontroller, using it as a PWM and a field switch. After some experimentation, the 60mA value suited me.

The result was the following diagram:

The device is powered by a lithium battery and can be turned on and off with a button.

VD1-VD9 are UV LEDs that are supposed to attract mosquitoes, R1-R9 limit the current through each LED. Key VT1 turns on these LEDs, upon command from the microcontroller. VT2 - converter key. PWM frequency - 18.75 kHz. Resistor R16 limits the short-circuit current in the event of a grid short circuit. The voltage from the divider R13, R12 is supplied to the ADC of the microcontroller. R11 pulls the RESET pin to positive; without it, the microcontroller is reset from interference associated with the presence of electrostatic fields from the “grid”. R10, R14 - close the keys when the microcontroller goes into sleep mode.

When voltage is applied, the microcontroller goes into sleep mode and wakes up only when the button is pressed. It turns on the LEDs and starts PWM with a fixed duty cycle value, selected experimentally. It polls the button and, if pressed, goes to sleep, turning off the LEDs and the high voltage source. The rest of the time it simply updates the duty cycle values ​​in the PWM register, otherwise there were unclear glitches due to the loss of this value.

If the voltage drops below 3V, the LEDs will begin to blink, indicating that the battery is running low. If it drops below 2.8V, the microcontroller turns everything off and goes into sleep mode, preventing the lithium battery from being destroyed.

Photo of the board

Details.

Instead of VT1, VT2 switches, you can use almost any mosfets, since I installed what I found in the bins (“blown away” from ancient motherboards), and there is almost a 50-fold current reserve. The transformer is soldered off the board of the dead LCD monitor. For 2 days it is placed in a jar of nail polish remover (acetone is only sold to drug addicts) and then very easily disassembled and rewound. Each section winds 70 turns for a total of 8*70=560 turns. After this, the transformer (without the core) is dipped into molten paraffin to increase its reliability. Any other core can be used. But then you will have to experimentally select the number of turns of winding L1 so that the current consumption is reasonable (I have about 60mA) and the output voltage is about 1000V (so that the spark “breaks well”). The “killing” ability can be tested on flies; if it kills, then there is enough tension.

Or change the pulse duty cycle in the microcontroller program.

Fuses as always

Attention! You can flash it directly on the board (if you can solder the wiring) - that’s exactly how I flashed it. But to do this, you need to unsolder the jumper from the VT2 gate, otherwise it will not sew.

I rate the microcontroller program at 3, because:

-I have never seen the LEDs blink when the voltage drops (although it works without problems on the breadboard), maybe the batteries are already old and run out too quickly;

-the lamp may turn itself off when you turn it on - this is due to the fact that a high potential is induced at the button, which discharges the parasitic capacitance of the circuit. They raised their finger - the container was discharged, the lamp went out. It happens rarely and doesn't bother me. It can be treated, obviously, by pulling the button through the 10k reduction to a plus.

In the circuit there is ~1000V, and it distributed its field lines quite interestingly! So why not charge something around?

Current consumption in operating mode is about 180 mA, in sleep mode 0.3 mA.

Everything seems to be done electronically. That's plagiarism!

Net! The most difficult and most creative part of the design, it took a lot of time!

The mesh consists of two parallel conductors wound on 4 posts. In the photo you see the second version of the grid. The first was made from a plastic pipe with a diameter of 50 mm, using the “fusion” method. And it seemed small to me. The support posts are made as follows: a piece of acrylic is cut out so that, taking into account the cut, 4 posts of equal sizes can be cut. The LUT is taken and transferred to this piece. The piece produces marks with equal pitches - about 3mm. Just be careful there! When heated, the piece bends like a bimetallic plate! Don't overdo it and be sure to cool the heated part!

Now we take a hacksaw and cut marks in the acrylic so that the wire fits securely there. I don’t have a jigsaw, I ground a “reamer” on the canvas to make the cut thinner (the wire is 0.5mm!!). Then this piece is cut into 4 equal parts and voila - the racks are ready!! Now we cut the remaining pillars of the “elven tower”.

We take dichloroethane, throw acrylic shavings into it - so that it does not evaporate so quickly and has time to dissolve the surfaces being glued. We glue.

Take another look at the photo above. The height of my shredder is 200mm, diameter is 110mm (sewer pipe). This number of horizontal “supports” is not enough to properly wind the mesh. The racks must stand very rigidly so that when winding the mesh they are not led and then moved by the distance between the rows of wires. It’s not scary, of course, but it’s not very technical, and any “puff” will make you short later.

The wound wire should be tensioned evenly, and the mesh should be similar to the factory one (like the Chinese)!

This is where all your creativity comes into play!

The wire for winding the mesh is 0.5mm, without varnish or insulation. In this case, it is a gutted twisted pair cable, the pieces of which are soldered together. The wire is annealed with gas to give it softness. Don't overdo it here either - it burns out with a bang! Keep in mind - twisted pair can be copper or bimetal (aluminum coated with copper). Bimetal is softer and does not need to be burned. I would recommend looking for a 10-meter piece of copper twisted pair, so as not to solder the pieces later - winding is bad.

And now from the “noodles” of marketers, let’s move on to “reality”.

The LEDs I use shine in the 430nm region. And I couldn’t find others anywhere! On the seller's website it was written that the LEDs are ultraviolet. Do you think they are really UV? Of course not. They are violet, or even indigo, as Newton said. This LED will not illuminate security marks on money, unlike real nightclub UV lamps. Since the LED has such a parameter as “delta spectrum” - i.e. the width of the spectrum with which it shines, then looking at the datasheet, we can say that it still reaches the UV, or the same 390 ppm. Therefore, let us believe that, although weakly, UV is still emitted from the LED. Therefore, the mosquito must see it and fly into the trap. And now the tests.

We hang the lamp outside, turn it on, close the window doors, and go to bed. In the morning we see a bunch of “flora and fauna” that remained on the grid. Moths, a few mosquitoes and other unknown insects. Small insects, including recently hatched mosquitoes, are poorly visible in the photo.

Works!

We take the lamp in our backpack, get on our bike, and go to the river. There you are attacked by a swarm of mosquitoes, we turn on the lamp... and we are further devoured by mosquitoes. And there’s not a single mosquito on the lamp! Where is the magic of ultraviolet or those 390-365 nm? Well, at least one should arrive? There is no one, everyone has flown to eat you! Then we think and read literature.

Since you are “warm” at 36.6 degrees, you should be emitting infrared radiation. True, what exactly is the wavelength emitted by an object heated to 36 degrees. I didn’t find any numbers, but should I trust them? You obviously need to take and remember physics, but you’re lazy. Let's look at what IR LEDs are on sale - 850, 940 nm. I remember I took them, 30 of each, to illuminate the IR cameras. We assemble an LED IR lamp from 12 LEDs, set the current through each LED to -18mA. We get a source that will emit both 850 and 940 nm, plus the “delta spectrum” of each of them.

We take a lamp, beer and go to visit friends. We put a lamp and observe the reaction of mosquitoes. This time they become interested in your lamp, flying up to it and flying away, at least seeing what it looks like. I hung the lamp at night and not a single mosquito was caught on the IR. The next experiment is to add the smell of sweat. I think there is no need to describe the experience. The result is that no one is caught again!

Now let’s read a few more smart books and sum up.

Yes, UV radiation attracts insects, in fact, just like visible radiation. Bees, for example, are able to see all colors + UV. The only thing that is written is that yellow and some others can scare away this and that. Therefore, I think it makes no difference what kind of lamp you put there - as you can see, mosquitoes fly to the white light of the fluorescent stage. The only thing is that such a lamp in the room will interfere with sleep, unlike a weakly glowing UV fluorescent lamp.

Why do mosquitoes bite us? and why don’t they care about our lamp? Mosquitoes see perfectly in the infrared region, they have an excellent thermal imager. They find the victim by its “warm-blooded” temperature. Perfectly distinguishes the victim even during the day, against the backdrop of sun exposure. Using his thermal imager, he finds the places he needs to bite. The smell and carbon dioxide, of course, attracts the mosquito, but probably when it doesn’t see you yet, and that’s if you believe the same “British scientists.” Experience with LEDs shows that the mosquito is not a fool, and it is not interested in something point-like. To get a fully functional trap, you need to place a cylindrical object inside the lamp, which maintains its temperature at 37 degrees, then the IR will be uniform on all sides, and the mosquito will perceive it, say, as something warm-blooded. But then you need to carry a 10kg car battery with you!

Conclusions.

If you want to buy a lamp like this, keep in mind that it only attracts mosquitoes when you are not near it! Otherwise, they don't care about her! You taste better! Therefore, you will have to use it regularly - until the “reserves” of mosquitoes in the area run out. I hang my homemade lamp on the street every day, in the morning I clean off the “corpses” with a brush, so that less reptiles breed! I use a fumigator in my room.

A good insect killer, no doubt, but it doesn't really attract mosquitoes! So why is it needed??

But it makes an excellent electric fly swatter (this is the one that is used to beat cockroaches on the walls, and then wipe the wall of the remains, like an “electric shoe” that does not leave traces behind) and if you put something tasty inside, the flies themselves will fly away!

Before use, check for the presence of high voltage with a coin - when the “grid” wires are shorted, there should be a spark!

DANGEROUS! HIGH VOLTAGE! It shouldn't kill you - the battery power still breaks, but it's almost safe. But from a network with a multiplier it can kill! I warn you in advance - on the grid 1000V! There is no protective cap! Don’t stick your tongue in there, don’t kiss, and don’t indulge in any other nonsense! The author does not bear any responsibility for any harm that this device may cause! You do everything at your own peril and risk! The information is provided for informational purposes only!

And finally, one of the designs and descriptions from Chinese friends

The electronic mosquito killer circuit is composed of the energy-saving lamp circuit and high-voltage generator circuit, and the circuit is shown in Figure 3-196. Energy saving lamp circuit is composed of the rectifier diodes VDl-VD6, transistors Vl, V2, resistors Rl-R6, capacitors Cl-C6, pulse transformer T, choke L and black fluorescents ELL, EL2. The high-voltage generator circuit consists of resistors R7-RlO, capacitors C7-ClO, rectifier diodes VD7-VDl8 and high electrodes. Rl-RlO choose the 1/4W carbon film resistors or metal film resistors. Cl uses aluminum electrolytic capacitor with the voltage in 400V.

And a patent for the shredder from the Americans (with a diagram and description in English).

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Electrical assistants

An electronic insect killer in the form of a house with electrodes built inside is also safe for others. But victims who get inside have no way back - they are instantly destroyed by an electric discharge. This is a good alternative and addition to adhesive tapes; it does not require large expenses - prices start from 200 rubles.

Insect killer Sakura

The exterminator is presented in various types; these are not only typical lamps, but also special devices into which insects are drawn by a fan. Some are produced in the form of lanterns, others are installed as floor traps, but almost all of this company’s products are designed for pest control indoors, not outdoors.

The issue price is in the range of 800-3500 rubles.

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