Diseases and pests of the jasmine bush, treatment, prevention, interesting life hacks


The main reasons for the appearance of aphids

Gardeners sometimes think that aphids appear on plants literally out of nowhere. In fact, there may be several variants of infection:

  • An insect can fly, for example, from a neighboring garden plot. This is the so-called aphid migration, which occurs as a result of overpopulation of the colony.
  • When planting new plants. Freshly purchased crops often become carriers of aphids. Before planting an “alien” in the garden, you need to check it for the presence of parasites.
  • Open doors, windows. A common way for pests to appear. Indoor and greenhouse plants often suffer from such an invasion.
  • Along with the soil. The larvae can attack plants through soil taken from the street. It is for this reason that new land should be disinfected.
  • Aphids often appear in garden plots in the spring. New individuals hatch from eggs that have overwintered in leaf litter and soil.

Another possible cause of aphid infestation is the activity of ants. These insects are carriers of aphids, which are needed by ants, and aphids need garden workers. This is how a kind of cooperation is born.

Aphids secrete honeydew, a nutritious, sweetish liquid. Ants feed on it to maintain their workforce. If there are ants in the area, most likely, aphids will also settle there. Therefore, both types of insects need to be destroyed.

What kind of insect is this and why is it dangerous?

  • The insect, whose body length is no more than one millimeter, has a color from green to brown.
  • Appears on leaves and stems in large numbers and can move by jumping.
  • The pest feeds on leaf sap and is most often seen in areas with young shoots.
  • Insects can reproduce quickly and most often appear in colonies, which makes them more visible to humans.
  • Aphids have wings, so they can fly from one plant to another.
  • Most often, white aphids appear on indoor plants, which not only deplete the shoots and leaves of flowers, but also infect the vegetation with various fungi.
  • Since the insect tends to secrete a sticky liquid, which is the most suitable area for the proliferation of fungal infections.

Aphids can cause the following harm:

  • leads to the death of shoots;
  • a fungus develops that infects the flower and leads to its death;
  • the leaves curl into a tube;
  • There is a sticky coating on the leaves, as a result of which the required amount of oxygen does not enter the plant.

Let's celebrate! The insect reproduces quickly and when one plant is infected, the pest quickly moves to healthy indoor flowers.

An insect may appear on a houseplant as follows:

  • an insect may fly into the window;
  • aphids are small in size, so they are often carried into homes on human clothing;
  • when buying a new plant, there may be insect eggs on the leaves;
  • Pest larvae may be in the ground when cuttings are transplanted;
  • plants located on balconies can become a source of infection.

Unlike many parasites, the occurrence of which can occur without symptoms for a long time, the appearance of aphids is accompanied by the following symptoms:

  • the leaves of the indoor flower become sluggish and droop;
  • on young shoots you can notice damage and drops of viscous liquid;
  • leaves turn yellow and curl;
  • In places where indoor flowers are located, you can notice the presence of ants.

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An aphid is a white, drop-shaped insect, no more than half a centimeter in length. There are winged and wingless ones.

Winged aphids are capable of moving to other plants. Wingless insects reproduce massively. Aphids pierce leaves and suck out life-giving juices, taking away nutrients from the plant and creating pockets for bacterial infection (you can learn more about what aphids feed on in this material).

Typically, aphids come indoors on other plants. This could be a bouquet of cut flowers or a purchased infected flower. Sometimes an insect can fly into a room while airing.

To detect aphids, you need to examine the leaves and stem from the inside, where the females lay eggs. The larvae look like small white specks.

White aphids attack dicotyledonous plants; legumes are especially susceptible to attack. White aphids overwinter on pistachio trees.

How to recognize aphid infestation

You can understand that a plant is infected with aphids by a number of signs:

  • The leaves curl, turn yellow and take the shape of a house.
  • Flowers are deformed.
  • The fruits dry out and are underdeveloped.
  • Leaves and buds become covered with a sticky white coating.

Often a cluster of brown, black and green insects - aphids - can be seen with the naked eye on young buds or shoots. Insects also like to “clump” on the underside of leaves. Upon inspection, the gardener may find whitish pieces among living individuals. This is old skin that has been shed by aphids.

Traditional methods of fighting aphids in the garden

If you are determined to fight plant parasites and want to use folk remedies for this, you need to take into account that most of them are not able to destroy insects. Their use allows you to scare away uninvited guests.

Spraying should be carried out at least three times, with an interval of 7-10 days. It is best to do this in the evening, on a dry day. If it rains, repeat the procedure.

To ensure prevention, you can use an infusion of wood ash. You need to powder the plant with this product. It is prepared as follows: 300 g of ash is poured into 10 liters of water, put on fire and brought to a boil, before irrigating the plantings, 40 g of grated soap is added to the composition.

What harm can it cause

Aphids cause enormous damage to cultivated plants:

  • Pests suck nutrient fluid from crops. The plants are gradually withering.
  • Leaves and shoots are deformed.
  • Insects provoke the spread of fungal diseases.
  • Plants gradually weaken, do not tolerate cold well and often die.
  • The yield of affected crops is reduced or absent altogether.

The general condition of plants affected by aphids deteriorates significantly.

How to restrict access to trees or beds

Ants and aphids in the garden (you need to start fighting them in the early stages, while their numbers are small) are a source of disease and withering of cultivated plants.


The figure lists measures to prevent the appearance of ants and aphids in the garden.

However, it is possible to limit insects' access to trees and beds by doing the following:

  • the inside of the sheepskin should be coated with carbolic acid, wrapping raspberry or currant bushes with the wool facing out;
  • dig in the ground, cover them with clay and fill them with water;
  • wrap the tree with roofing felt, covering it with glue on top;
  • wrap tree trunks with adhesive tape, securing them with rope;
  • You will need to put a car tire cut in half on a small tree trunk and fill it with water;
  • make a fence with pointed edges from a plastic bottle.

Basic methods of struggle

There are different ways to get rid of harmful aphids on jasmine in the garden. Each of them differs from others in the means used and the characteristics of their impact on pests.

Preventive

Preventing the appearance of black aphids on fragrant jasmine is much easier than fighting insidious pests in the future. The main methods of prevention are as follows:

  • Taking care of the health of your summer cottage. The leaves on the trees should be tight and elastic, then it will be more difficult for aphids to bite through them. Mulching, watering and fertilizing plants will help achieve such results.
  • Young shoots require special care. Root shoots should be eliminated; tops are the main breeding grounds for aphids.
  • In early spring and autumn, trees are cleared of old peeling bark.
  • Don't forget about whitening the bark. This procedure reduces the number of viable egg clutches. Whitewashing is carried out in spring and autumn.

Advice! Before the first buds begin to bloom, the bushes are first sprayed with solutions of nitrafen or nicotine sulfate. The dosage is determined based on the instructions for the drug.

Mechanical

There are no special baits or traps for catching aphids. And all because these pests have a unique way of feeding. Aphids are not interested in anything other than green, juicy leaves.

Therefore, there are only a few mechanical means of pest removal:

  • Remove weeds, completely cleaning the garden for the winter. Ideally, dig up the soil completely.
  • Kill insects with a strong stream of water.
  • Remove pests from shoots manually.

Advice! Using a hose and a stream of water, you can not only remove aphids, but also wash away the sweet honeydew from the leaves. If the pressure is very weak or the flowers cannot withstand the water jet, it is better to wear gloves and eliminate the pests yourself.


Biological

The most labor-intensive option for killing aphids. It involves recruiting insects or birds that eat pests. They eliminate bugs quickly and effectively.

Aphids love to eat:

  • ladybugs;
  • praying mantises;
  • ground beetles;
  • bedbugs;
  • riders.

Birds can also destroy aphids:

  • linnet;
  • sparrows;
  • kings;
  • tits.

Birds are lured to the site by birdhouses and feeders.

Advice! If a summer resident decides to involve birds in cooperation, chemicals must be used with caution on the site.

Chemical

Black aphids on a jasmine bush can be detected already in the first days of spring, and therefore pest control must begin from the moment the leaves bloom. Jasmine leaves can be sprayed with a broad-spectrum insecticide. The latter help destroy insects 24 hours after treatment. The properties of the drugs last for about a month.

Timely treatment of mock orange in the spring guarantees the plant protection from aphids during the flowering period.

Repeated spraying is carried out at the end of summer.

The following drugs are suitable for treatment:

  • "Spark";
  • "Tanrek";
  • "Aktellik" and so on.

You can also use so-called insecticides. They can even be used on flowering plants. Such preparations begin to act on insects later than chemicals - after 10–15 days. However, bioinsecticides are considered safe for birds, animals, and people.

Trichopolum is considered the most common harmless bioinsecticide. 20 tablets of the drug are dissolved in 10 liters of water and the bush is sprayed.

“Trichopolum” can be used to treat not only bushes and trees, but even vegetable crops. Working with the solution does not require special clothing. The drug simultaneously destroys pests and fungal diseases.

Technological

Aphids cannot tolerate the aroma of some plants. Unfortunately, jasmine is not one of them, and therefore pests very often attack it. You can save the fragrant bush by planting repellent plants on the site. These include:

  • parsley;
  • calendula;
  • peppermint;
  • marigold;
  • hybrid petunia.

Advice! You can plant dill near the jasmine bush. The plant attracts ladybugs and some types of bedbugs.

Jasmine pests

Black jasmine aphids, less commonly legume-euonymus aphids, grow on the bush. The main sabotage begins at the end of July, in August. Small insects form entire colonies; each female reproduces 40 young at a time.

Aphids overwinter in the form of eggs. By the end of summer, winged females lay eggs closer to the shoots in the lower part of the bush. In early spring, larvae emerge from them and immediately begin to wreck.

The fact that black aphids have appeared can be seen by the appearance of the bush:

  • leaves curl, turn yellow, fall off;
  • dark spots appear on the foliage;
  • the tops of young shoots dry out;
  • The flowers do not bloom and quickly fall off.

Fighting aphids on mock orange and jasmine is necessary to save the bush and prevent infection of the entire garden and flower garden.


Aphid on jasmine

How to destroy at home

If the gardener does not have the opportunity or desire to use insecticides, you can fight aphids using traditional methods.

Potassium soap

A small piece of green potassium soap should be grated and dissolved in 1 liter of water. The affected plants are thoroughly washed with this solution.

Under no circumstances should the potassium soap solution get into the soil from which the plants grow. Before “treatment” the soil is covered with plastic film.

Celandine tincture

Fresh or dry stems of the celandine plant are taken along with flowers and leaves and infused in 1 liter of water. The infusion is sprayed onto the plants using a spray bottle.

Citrus tincture

A mixture of lemon and orange peels in the amount of 200–300 g is poured into a liter of boiling water. The liquid is infused for three days in a dark place. The tincture is used to spray diseased plants.

Flea shampoo

The solution is prepared using flea shampoo for treating animals (sold at a veterinary pharmacy). Half a cap is diluted with 0.5 liters of water. The liquid is poured into a spray bottle and sprayed onto diseased plants.

Tobacco smoke

Tobacco smoke can be used to fumigate garden trees and bushes. Chips, shavings, small firewood are placed in a bucket, and tobacco dust (5–10 g per sq. m.) is poured on top. The garden is fumigated for two hours. Fumigation will not harm the plants, but all pests on it will die. The procedure is carried out after the bush has finished flowering.

Tobacco

100 g of dry tobacco is diluted in a liter of boiling water and left for 3 hours. The liquid is decanted. Before treating plants, the solution is diluted with water in a ratio of 1:5.

Soap solution

One of the most effective and at the same time safe means for eliminating pests. Soap breaks down the body of aphids, leading to dehydration and death of insects.

The classic solution is made as follows:

  1. Grind 30 g of laundry soap and dilute it in a liter of water.
  2. If bar soap was used, you need to wait until it is completely dissolved in water. Liquid soap is thoroughly mixed with water.
  3. The solution is poured into a spray bottle and sprayed onto diseased plants three times a day for 14 days.

ladybugs

Ladybug larvae are bought in special stores or ordered by mail. Future insects are released into the garden in late spring, and nature will take care of the rest.

On a note! This method is effective, but similar to a kind of lottery. There is no guarantee that ladybugs will not take it into their heads to scatter into neighboring areas.

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Symptoms of the disease are revealed by the development of brownish round spots on the leaves.

The diameter of the lesion is ten millimeters. As a result, the foliage dries out and falls off prematurely.

It was possible to cure jasmine only with fungicides, since traditional methods in this case are weak and ineffective.

Potassium and copper bicarbonate are diluted in water in accordance with the instructions; spraying should be carried out at the initial manifestations of the disease. Chlorothalonil is also an effective remedy, but it is very toxic and harmful to health.

Use of chemicals

When home methods of combating aphids are powerless, it’s time to use chemicals.

"Aktellik"

An extremely toxic drug classified as a second hazard class. In terms of the “armor-piercing” specific odor, it is equivalent to dichlorvos. It is recommended to use Actellik in cases where the plant, in addition to aphids, has been attacked by even more powerful pests, for example, spider mites.

"Aktar"

Effective both during spraying and watering. The crop becomes poisonous and dangerous for aphids. The plant becomes poisonous and poisons aphids. It is very convenient to treat shrubs and trees with this insecticide. It is enough to simply water the plant without spraying each branch separately.

"Intavir"

Helps rid the garden of aphids and other pests. The base substance is cypermethrin. The product requires dilution (see instructions) and spraying of the plant.

"Decis"

You can spray jasmine against aphids with the highly effective preparation “Decis”. It quickly destroys aphids and other garden pests. Non-toxic to plants. It is diluted with water and has a slight odor.

"Alatar"

Enteric contact insecticide. The basic components are cypermethrin and malathion. Requires dilution in water and spraying of plants.

"Svetolux Bau"

An insecticide that allows you to get rid of aphids, whiteflies and other pests on shrubs, trees and herbaceous plants. Helps protect crops from insects several hours after treatment. Features a long period of protection. The drug should be sprayed on plants at the slightest appearance of pests. The number of necessary treatments is one to two per season.

Ammonia alcohol

Dilute 50 ml of alcohol with 10 liters of water. The bush is treated with a watering can with a wide nozzle. Repeated treatment is necessary after two weeks.

Soda

1 tbsp. l. Dilute baking soda in a liter of water. Jasmine is sprayed with the solution; treatment should be carried out in calm, dry weather.

"Coca Cola"

Place a spray bottle on a Coca-Cola bottle and spray the affected plants with the drink. The harmful effect of dark liquid on aphids is explained by the content of orthophosphoric acid in the drink.

Vinegar

The solution is prepared from 9% vinegar - 1 tsp. The product is added to a liter of water. Additionally, you can add 10 g of liquid soap.

If table vinegar is not on hand, you can take 1 tbsp. l. vinegar essence, stir it with 10 liters of water and pour in 50 g of liquid soap.

The solution is poured into a spray bottle and sprayed onto the front and back sides of the sheet.

Ash

Ash is both a fertilizer for plants and a means to protect them. 700 g of wood ash is diluted with a bucket of water and 1 tbsp is added. l. laundry soap. Spray the jasmine bush with the prepared solution.

Mustard

An infusion against aphids from mustard is prepared as follows: 15 g of mustard is poured with two liters of water. The mixture is infused in a warm place for two days. The composition is diluted with water until the total volume reaches 5 liters. The product is sprayed onto the infected crop. Young buds and the underside of leaves should be treated especially carefully.

Tar

To prepare a tar solution, use a special concentrate or regular bar tar soap from a hardware store.

The cost of the solution is approximately 150 rubles per 100 ml, a bar of soap will cost 50 rubles per 140 g.

Preparation of the solution:

  • Half a bar of soap or 50 ml of its liquid analogue is diluted with 10 g of birch tar.
  • It is better to grate solid soap.
  • The mixture is left for an hour to dissolve.
  • After an hour, the solution is stirred and another 10 liters of water are added.
  • The trees and bushes are thoroughly mixed and treated again.

It is convenient to use a spray bottle for spraying.

Advice! The tar solution will quickly be washed off with the slightest precipitation. It is best to choose dry, windless days for spraying.

Boric acid

A solution of boric acid against aphids is prepared in the proportion of 2 g of product per liter of water. A high concentration should not be used - the solution can damage the leaves. The resulting liquid is used to treat the leaves of the damaged plant on both sides. For convenience, use a spray bottle.

Folk recipes


Folk recipes for pests
It doesn’t take long to figure out how to treat jasmine against aphids. Active components are almost always available on the farm or grow in the fields.

  • Grate 200 g of laundry soap on a coarse grater. Dissolve in 1 liter of warm water. Add 9 liters of cold. Spray the jasmine with a garden spray bottle.
  • Stir wood ash, red and black pepper, mustard, and cinnamon in a bucket of water. Add soap. It is enough to treat the jasmine bush once for the aphids to disappear.
  • Pour 200 g of onion peel into 10 liters of water. Boil for 20 minutes, leave to infuse for a day. Strain, add 100 g of laundry soap.
  • Mix baking soda and salt in equal proportions. Add 10 liters of water and soap.
  • • Dilute 50 ml of ammonia in 10 liters of water. Treat the jasmine bush with a watering can with a wide nozzle. Repeated treatment with ammonia is allowed after 14 days.
  • Grind tobacco, add 200 g of tobacco powder, pour 10 liters of cold water. After a day, boil for an hour. When the product has cooled, add soap.

Also often used:

  • milk and iodine;
  • Coca Cola;
  • vinegar;
  • garlic;
  • celandine;
  • mustard;
  • vodka;
  • Green soap;
  • Birch tar;
  • boric acid.

Prevention measures

You can prevent the spread of aphids on mock orange leaves and flowers using simple preventive measures.

Quarantine

A newly acquired plant should not be planted on the site immediately. It is better to place it in a separate room, for example, in a greenhouse. The seedling is wrapped at the roots with a damp cloth and sent to quarantine. Over the course of several weeks, the plant is regularly inspected for pests. If the gardener does not find anything suspicious, jasmine can be planted in the ground.

Soil preparation

The soil that is supposed to be used for growing crops should first be calcined or frozen. This method allows you to destroy aphid eggs, which are often located in the ground.

Mosquito nets

If the plant lives indoors, windows and doors must be covered with mosquito nets in the summer. This will prevent aphid invasion of ornamental jasmine species.

Geranium

Fragrant pelargonium or geranium is one of the natural preventive plants. Produces phytoncides that are destructive to aphids. It is useful to plant pelargonium near jasmine.

So, it is better for the gardener to create conditions under which small green or black insects do not appear at all on the leaves of the mock orange. But even if this happens, you should not give up. On the contrary, they should be raised high up and engaged in manual removal of pests from the bush or dilution of insecticides. You just need to put in a little effort, and there won’t be a trace of aphids left on your home crop.

Description


Aphids are small insects belonging to the order Homoptera. The parasite uses plant sap for nutrition, sucking it out of leaves, non-lignified stems, flowers and ovaries. There are more than 3,500 species of aphids in nature. Of these, about 1000 live in European countries. Insects live in numerous colonies, multiply and spread quickly.

The average size of adults is 2 to 3 mm. But some species reach a length of up to 7 mm. They have an oval body with a sucking mouthpart at one end. The insect pierces the shell of leaves and stems using its proboscis. The pest uses 3 pairs of limbs to move. Adults come with or without wings. You can see the aphids in more detail in the photo. Winged insects migrate, flying from one plant to another in search of food.

Of all the known varieties of aphids on bell peppers, the following appear:

  1. Peach does not exceed 2 mm in length. Usually its body is colored translucent green, but sometimes red individuals are found.
  2. Greenhouse mainly affects plants in greenhouse or greenhouse soil. Adults reach a length of 3.6 mm. Their body is green in color, sometimes a stripe of a darker shade runs along the back.
  3. The nightshade or black aphid is the smallest. The body size of an adult does not exceed 1 mm. The color varies, but black insects often appear on bell peppers.

Aphids reproduce at a high rate. An adult female reproduces 3 generations per month. Moreover, in one clutch she makes up to 150 eggs. The larvae that hatch from them turn into sexually mature individuals in just 7 days. During the summer, aphids reproduce asexually. Most often, wingless individuals are born, but sometimes winged ones are found among them. They fly to healthy plants and infect them. With the onset of autumn, sexual reproduction of aphids begins. Then the laid eggs are stored until spring.

Note! Aphid reproduction occurs most quickly at temperatures from +25°C to +30°C. When the temperature drops to +20°C, reproduction slows down by half. Then the insects develop more slowly, reaching sexual maturity in 2 weeks.

Processing technology

Spraying plums against aphids must be done correctly:

  1. The best time for processing is evening or early morning when there is no wind.
  2. Do not spray with chemicals or folk remedies before rain, otherwise the work will be in vain.
  3. The sprayer with the working solution is kept at a distance of 70 centimeters from the surface of the tree crown.
  4. If the crop is high, then it is better to use a stepladder.
  5. If there is a large concentration of insects, treatment begins with chemicals, ending with plant solutions during the fruiting period. The interval between sprayings is from 7 to 10 days.

Only daily protection from sucking parasites will keep the tree healthy.

Planting mock orange

In order for the mock orange bush to grow lush and flowering, it should be planted in open sunny places, protected from wind and draft. The soil must be loose, have good water permeability and a sufficient amount of useful elements. Places with close groundwater and those that are flooded in the spring are not suitable. When growing a shrub in shady or semi-shady places, its branches will be elongated, the leaves will be small, and the flowering will not be so lush.

Before planting, you need to prepare the soil by mixing together humus, leaf soil and river sand in a ratio of 1:3:2. If the soil in your garden has poor water permeability, a layer of drainage should be added to the planting hole. The seedlings are planted in the fall, starting from September 10 and ending on October 15. Some gardeners plant shrubs in the spring, but this procedure should be done before the buds begin to open on the branches. If you purchased seedlings that have a closed root system, they can be planted at any time of the year, except winter.

Before planting, dig a cubic hole measuring 0.5x0.5 cm. If you want to plant mock orange as a hedge, the distance between the holes should be at least half a meter. The bottom of the pit is covered with a layer of coarse sand or gravel up to 20 cm thick. Then a layer of fertile soil is placed, which is moistened. The seedling is placed in the hole in such a way that its root collar is 2 cm below the ground level. The roots are covered with a layer of soil, compacted and moistened. The tree trunk area is mulched with sawdust, hay, peat or compost. The amount of water for each bush should be at least 20 liters. If you bury the root collar deeper than the specified size, it may rot.

Mechanical methods

Mechanical methods allow you to get rid of aphids if a small number of insects were noticed on roses. It must be borne in mind that they only eliminate pests encountered, without providing any protection against their reappearance.

Manual collection

The simplest mechanical method is to manually collect detected insects, and it is recommended to follow the following rules:

It is important to carefully inspect all parts of the roses so as not to accidentally miss hidden aphids, which like to be on the back of the leaves. The collected aphids must be physically destroyed; it is quite easy to crush them with your fingers. Otherwise, she will soon return to the food source.

Washing with water

Another method is to simply wash the rose bushes with water; they have their own positive and negative features:

Washing off aphids is more effective than manual collection, since streams of water wash away all pests, including those that might have gone unnoticed. The main disadvantage is the inability to control the death of all insects; some individuals may survive and return to the food source. The procedure should be carried out carefully, since streams of water under strong pressure can cause mechanical damage to the bush itself.

Natural enemies

It is not necessary to destroy aphids yourself; for these purposes, you can attract its natural enemies.

In nature they are:

  1. Small birds, such as sparrows or tits.
  2. Ladybugs.
  3. Hoverflies.

It is necessary not only to attract them to your site by providing sources of food and drink, but also to maintain appropriate favorable conditions so that these insects or animals stay in the garden for a long time. The ladybug is considered the safest enemy of aphids, since birds can also harm some garden flowers or fruit trees.

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