How to get rid of slugs in the garden once and for all?


Slugs are gastropods that are serious enemies of summer residents. In the most favorable years for their development (cool and damp), they are capable of destroying almost the entire crop. How to deal with slugs?

Slugs, for the most part, are not at all picky about food and therefore eat everything that comes their way: plant leaves, moss and even mushrooms. Although they prefer, of course, succulent leaves. At first, the mollusks eat away the irregularly shaped holes (they are often used to “identify” the pest), and then, if the slugs are not dealt with, they eat the entire leaf, leaving only hard veins.

Appearance

The slug's body has three parts:

  1. Head . Her clam can lift up. The head is equipped with two pairs of tentacles. One of them is long, with eyes and smell receptors. The second pair is short, these are the organs of taste and touch. There is a mouth opening on the lower front of the head.
  1. Body equipped with a mantle . The body is stretched and slightly flattened. The mantle is located immediately behind the head on the dorsal side. In this convex collar there is a lung, and on the side on the right there is an outlet for collecting air for breathing. Near the anal exit.
  1. Leg . This is the outermost part of the mollusk, with the help of which the slug crawls.

The skin of a gastropod is thin, hairless and constantly covered with a special secretion (mucus), which cools the body, helps it glide and protects it from enemies. The color of the body is also protective: sand, brown, gray, brown, sometimes with small white and black spots. The sizes can be diametrically opposite. It all depends on the species, there are 2 mm ones, and there are also 30 cm giants.

What damage do slugs cause?

When there are large numbers of slugs, they can cause serious damage to vegetation. Pests use about 150 crops as food. Among them are cabbage, tomatoes, legumes, cucumbers, potatoes, carrots, strawberries and others. Slugs are very voracious, so they can destroy the plant completely or seriously damage it. Spoiled fruits and vegetables are poorly stored and rot quickly.

In addition to the damage that slugs cause to garden plants, they also provoke the development of infection with diseases such as downy mildew, gray rot and others. Pets can also be harmed by slugs. Cows, goats, sheep, and chickens often become victims of various diseases caused by parasites carried by shellfish.

Reproduction of slugs

This mollusk is by nature a hermaphrodite, that is, the reproductive systems of both sexes. But a slug cannot fertilize itself; it requires the seminal fluid of another member of the family. Therefore, slugs use scent to find a partner, perform a short mating dance (quite an interesting spectacle), and cross-exchange of sperm occurs. Now both slugs are ready to lay eggs.

Each clutch is a pile of 20-30 eggs in the moist depths of the soil. It takes 2-3 weeks for the larvae to mature. Newly hatched slugs begin to actively feed on soil organic matter, and after 6-7 weeks they are sexually mature individuals, ready to reproduce. One mating is enough for the mollusk to lay eggs for a month or more.

In one summer, the mollusk produces up to 500 embryos. The last offspring, the autumn one, overwinters in the soil and hatches with the onset of warm weather. The slug, having made its last clutch, dies. If for some reason the slug did not have time to lay eggs for the last time, then it remains to overwinter in order to give birth in the spring.

Habitat Features

Since slugs do not have a shell shell, like their relatives - snails, their existence is highly dependent on climatic conditions (temperature and humidity). Ideally, the “warm-up” of the air should be within +15+19C. And the humidity levels must be very high. It is not for nothing that the mollusk is always covered in slippery mucus; drying out is death for it. He breathes not only with his lungs, but also with the entire surface of his wet body.

This explains the fact that slugs are exclusively nocturnal when there is no scorching sun. However, during cloudy weather, after a good rain, they can appear during daylight hours. If the season is dry and hot, then the slugs climb deep into the soil, form a slug cocoon and enter a state of anabiosis (temporary hibernation). Dense grassy vegetation is also to the liking of naked mollusks. If you keep the area clean, weed out and loosen the soil, you will make life much more difficult for the slugs.

Slugs have only one leg, but they have very developed strong muscles, so they crawl perfectly. When in danger, they retract their tentacles inside and, curling up tightly, assume a spherical state.

Prevention

Almost everyone has slugs in their garden, but you can significantly reduce their number if: regularly loosen the soil;
prevent weeds from growing; do not overuse watering; Do not water in the evening or in rainy weather. After watering the soil in the greenhouse, reduce the humidity by opening the windows and doors; Plant garlic or onions between the rows of vegetables. You can spread cut nettles; After transplanting tomatoes into open ground, you can spray them with an infusion of hot pepper and mustard prepared according to the following recipe: one glass of capsicum, 2 tbsp. spoons of mustard, a bucket of water. This pest can be easily destroyed if measures are taken at the very beginning, when the first signs of its appearance begin to appear.


Photo cdn-ssl.funkidslive.com

L. Romanova, agronomist

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How they appear in a vegetable garden or garden plot

On your land, you need to look for slugs under large leaves, in thickets of grass, and heaps of compost. In addition, mollusks live in damp cellars, basements and cellars.

In natural conditions of the wild, land gastropods maintain by their existence the ecological equality of forest and field communities. When we transfer an infected plant from a forest, field, or steppe to our site, we ourselves provoke the reproduction of the slug in our possessions. After all, the pest very readily accepts cultivated plantings as a food source (more than 150 plants) and begins to actively reproduce in a new place.

Constantly watering the beds and flowers and maintaining moisture makes his stay even more comfortable. And favorable weather conditions (humid and warm springs, autumns and summers, mild winters) contribute to the massive takeover of human-cultivated territories by slugs.

Are they harmful?

In the wild, slugs perform an important function in processing plant and animal remains, eat lichens, mushrooms, and are a necessary link in the food chain. Once on a personal plot, they become man's worst enemies.

Under favorable climatic conditions, their gluttony leads to the destruction of the entire crop if countermeasures are not taken in time. They affect seedlings and seedlings, tubers and roots, plant leaves, berries and fruits. Pests do not disdain decorative flowers either.

In addition, they contribute to the spread of various viral and bacterial diseases throughout the area. Plant tissues under the mucus begin to rot.

These creatures are also dangerous for poultry, as they are carriers of helminths.

Slug diet

On the menu, the mollusk prefers the healthiest and strongest plants. In the oral organ it has a jaw, equipped with a sharp edge with a chitinous coating and a tongue, with chitinous grater teeth (scientifically called radulas). The slug grinds food with its jaws and leaves clearly visible cuts with a smooth edge on the fruits.

The pest's taste preferences include mushrooms, weed plant remains, juicy pulp of garden crops, berries, root vegetables, and vegetables. In addition to destroying the crop, the mollusk is also capable of “rewarding” what it did not eat with mold, bacteria or viruses. Some varieties of the parasite are intermediate hosts of worms that parasitize poultry. That is why you should never feed found slugs to chickens, ducks, geese and other homestead animals.

Even if a slug does not damage the plant, but simply crawls over it, then this will also lead to nothing good. Firstly, the slime trail left behind the mollusk contaminates the plant, clogs the pores and provokes rotting. Secondly, it’s simply unpleasant, and even after washing, it’s unlikely that anyone will want to eat such a vegetable “treated” with slugs.

The slug loves some crops especially tenderly (can be used to make bait):

  • Cabbage.
  • Dandelions.
  • Salad (until the arrow forms).
  • Strawberries.
  • Woodlice grass and shepherd's purse.
  • All cruciferous vegetables (except mustard).

What do they not like and what are they afraid of?

Slugs do not tolerate direct sunlight, dryness and elevated temperatures. Dry soil is the scourge of slugs, which is why morning watering is recommended rather than evening watering when they start eating.

If the soil is covered with something unsuitable for crawling - sharp gravel, ash, straw or needles - it is difficult for them to move.

Slugs, having an excellent sense of smell, “cannot stand” some plants:

  • onion;
  • garlic;
  • sage;
  • oregano;
  • watercress;
  • geranium;
  • basil;
  • white clover;
  • caraway;
  • mustard.

Natural enemies of slugs

First, it's worth noting the environmental conditions:

  • Mollusks have a persistent dislike for the sun, as well as for high temperatures . Ruthlessly destroying weeds and thickets of unnecessary grass leaves more chances for the sun's rays to penetrate every corner of your site.
  • Dry soil is also a problem for the pest . By the way, for this reason, it is recommended to water the ridges in the morning, when the parasite crawls away to rest, and not in the evening, when he starts eating and the warm, moist soil is an unearthly bliss for him. The ground sprinkled with “inconvenient” material (needles, ash, straw, fine gravel) greatly complicates the movement of the parasite.

For slugs, owners of an excellent sense of smell, some representatives of the flora are unbearable:

  • Planting onions, garlic, watercress.
  • Fragrant herbs - caraway, sage, oregano, basil.
  • Flower crops - geranium, white clover.

In the animal world, slugs also have enough enemies and this can be successfully used in the fight against pests.

Birds:

  • Magpie.
  • Rook.
  • Thrush.
  • Crow.
  • Starling.
  • Jackdaw.

If you create suitable conditions for birds, hang feeders, drinking bowls, and birdhouses, then grateful birds will be happy to settle on your site and will become indispensable assistants in the fight not only against slugs, but also other garden pests.

Mammals:

  • Hedgehog.
  • Mole.
  • Shrew.

Rodents are good at dealing with gastropod parasites, but frankly speaking, the presence of the same moles on the site is a very dubious pleasure. They themselves cause a lot of trouble for gardeners with their habits and lifestyle.

Freshwater and insects:

  • Lizard.
  • Toad.
  • Frog.
  • Ground beetles (and larvae).

Do not forget that when attracting fauna to help you, you cannot use insecticides to kill slugs. After all, pesticides will destroy not only them, but also other representatives of the fauna, and will also settle on the crop. Chemical means of protection are used only in conditions of an abnormal, massive invasion of parasites, when all other methods no longer help.

Fighting woodlice in a summer cottage

Small (up to 2 cm) brown, gray or dark brown crustaceans feed on rotting remains of weeds and fruits. Families of woodlice live in secluded, damp corners - under stumps, stones, and in compost heaps. Scurrying millipedes in chitinous shells are harmless to humans, they are not contagious, and do not bite, although many gardeners find their appearance unpleasant.

Problems begin when colonies of crustaceans increase. With a lack of “natural” food, wood lice “switch” to garden crops. At risk are young shoots, flower stalks, and plants with thin roots. Once in a damp, dark cellar, the crustaceans will feed on the stored vegetables and fruits. It will be very difficult to remove woodlice from the garden forever.

Evidence of the presence of woodlice in the garden

Comfort conditions for crustaceans are humidity, darkness and warmth. Their home is piled up tree trimmings, random piles of building materials, mountains of garbage, or simply cracks in the wooden lining of the bathhouse. Woodlice go out in search of food only at night, remaining invisible to the dacha owner.

First "symptoms":

  • eaten flower stalks;
  • holes in tender leaves;
  • pits on juicy fruits.

By compacting the soil in the beds, wood lice prevent the roots from “breathing.”

Preventive measures

They come down to establishing order and cleanliness in the area.

Standard events:

  • cleaning up weeds, fallen fruits, damaged berries and fruits;
  • accurate storage of building materials;
  • treatment of wooden log houses with lime and professional insecticides.

The formation of mountains of garbage, household waste, and tops is unacceptable. Compost should be periodically poured with boiling water, a concentrated solution of bird droppings, or fresh manure should be added to it. An alternative to compost pits and heaps is to bury plant waste between beds, under tree canopies, and between bushes.

How to get rid of woodlice in the garden using folk remedies

It will not be possible to destroy crustaceans in a garden plot forever - pests can enter from neighboring areas. Traditional methods are aimed at controlling the woodlice population.

Simple and effective ways:

  • Search and manual collection of crustaceans - in their habitats or using traps: rotten vegetables, fruits, birch brooms, “tablets” of boric acid, boiled egg yolk with a drop of vegetable oil or grated vegetables/fruits for flavor. Collected crustaceans are placed in a saline solution, burned along with traps, or released “into the wild” away from the garden area.
  • Spraying areas of accumulation, beds with a solution of a mixture of ground red pepper, tobacco powder, soda ash - 3 g of each ingredient per 1 liter of water.
  • Treatment of woodlice housing with powder or an aqueous solution of boric acid - 10 g of powder per 0.5 liter of water.

To get rid of woodlice in the garden, you can also use salt, bleach, and quicklime. But their use is limited to outbuildings and waste collection areas. Watering the beds with salt water, “Whiteness,” or sprinkling the ground with quicklime can destroy garden crops.

Biological products to combat woodlice

An alternative to conventional insecticides, created on the basis of live bacteria, viruses, predatory fungi and beneficial spores. Biological products can be used throughout the growing season, 1 week before harvest.

  • Bitoclibacillin - woodlice die after 3-7 days due to intestinal dysfunction.
  • Actofir (Akarin) - affects the nerve cells of crustaceans.
  • Boverin - fungal spores falling on the chitinous cover and germinating inside the body. After the death of the centipede, the mycelium continues to develop, spreading its spores throughout the entire territory of the dacha.

Biological products are safe for people, animals, and beneficial insects. The addictive effect is excluded. Disadvantages: low efficiency in unfavorable weather, not suitable for destroying large colonies of woodlice, slow action compared to classic “chemistry”.

Chemicals against woodlice

Harsh chemical action ensures the fastest possible results. When using such drugs, it is recommended to use personal protective equipment: gloves, masks, safety glasses.

  • Metalhyde - its crystals damage the mucous membranes of crustaceans;
  • Fozalon is a highly toxic product that allows you to completely remove woodlice from an area in 48 hours;
  • Thunderstorm - blue granules that are harmful to insects last 2 weeks.

To combat woodlice in the garden, contact-intestinal insecticides are suitable: Ideal, Mesurol, Aktara. Chemical repellents for ants and other insect pests show good results.

The best slug repellents

Thunderstorm (Meta)

Slug spray was originally produced in Switzerland under the name "Meta", and has been considered one of the most productive and safe means of killing garden slugs for about a century.

What is it issued in (form of release)? Packaged in the form of blue granules. One package contains 15 g or 60 g of the drug.


Chemical composition. The base substance of “Thunderstorms” is metaldehyde and other auxiliary additives.

Method of action of the drug . Since this is an intestinal and contact drug, it exerts its effect upon direct contact with the slug’s body. The granules quickly absorb moisture and literally dry out the pests, depriving them of protective mucus and the ability to move easily. Slugs also readily eat pellets and die from poisoning within 2 hours.

Duration of action of the drug. From 2 to 3 weeks. Shelf life 24 days.

When to use? The effectiveness of the drug has been proven even after heavy rainfall. “Thunderstorm” can be used both in dry, windless weather and in the rainy season, when slugs are attracted to a humid environment. Granules with the first sprouted stems and blossoming leaves are scattered on the plot of land. Traditionally, “Thunderstorm” should be applied at the beginning of spring to protect young, fragile shoots.

Dosage . The standard consumption rate is 30 g of the drug per 10 square meters. m of territory or 15 g per 5 sq. m. m. 2-3 treatments per season are enough.

Mode of application . The drug is optimal for protecting grapes, berries, as well as citrus, vegetable, fruit, and flower crops. Granules of the substance are scattered under plants in places where slugs accumulate: between rows and on paths. You should avoid getting the granules into the leaves of cabbage or lettuce so that the poison does not end up in the food. The granules are destroyed by burning.

Toxicity . Due to the content of some harmful additives in the granules, “Groza” kills slugs, but can attract other pests and scare away birds that would help fight them. It is not advisable to use "Thunderstorm" in rooms for storing crops, such as cellars with potato tubers and other vegetables.

The drug is practically harmless to earthworms, bees, fish, algae and most plants. Hazard class for humans - 3.

The drug is extremely toxic for both adults and children and pets if it enters the body with food or in the eyes. After harvesting, any vegetables and fruits must be thoroughly washed if “Groza” was used nearby. When working with a moderately hazardous substance, you need to protect your eyes and respiratory tract with goggles, a respirator or a gauze bandage.

Ulicide

An effective and natural remedy used in the fight against slugs and snails, which kills pests by intestinal contact. Produced in Ukraine.

What is it issued in (form of release)? Sold in packs of 20 g (70 pieces) and 50 g (50 pieces), contains small bait granules, colored blue.


Chemical composition. The key substance is iron phosphate. Other ingredients include a grain mixture, wood ash, black pepper, hops, mustard, sugar, salt, and kaolin.

Mode of action of the drug . Dehydrates the bodies of slugs after direct contact, after which they die under a layer of soil.

Duration of action of the drug . Once the slugs have consumed the pellets, it may take a week before they die. Compatibility with other drugs. Thanks to its ecological composition, it can be safely combined with other types of anti-molluscan substances, including tobacco dust.

When to use? The drug should be used at the first appearance of slugs in the garden beds. The granules are resistant to erosion, so Ulicide can be used even after it has rained. Consumption rate: 3-5 g per 1 sq. m. plot. One treatment per season is enough.

Mode of application . The granules are scattered in the indicated doses under plant bushes or in paths and between rows.

Toxicity . The poison is absolutely safe for bees, earthworms, garden and ornamental plants. Due to its natural composition, the drug is not attractive to animals and birds, which eliminates their poisoning. After the expiration date, the product breaks down in the soil into natural elements - iron and phosphorus. Does not pose any danger to human health.

Metaldehyde

One of the most famous and inexpensive drugs used in the fight against slugs and snails. The most common drugs are those produced by Lonza and August, and Green Pharmacy Sadovoda.

What is it issued in (form of issue)? Packaged in packages with small blue granules.

Chemical composition . The main substance in the composition is poisonous metaldehyde (tetramer of acetaldehyde). Lonza's Metaldehyde uses bittering additives that repel dogs.

Mode of action of the drug . Attracts pests using the same principle as regular beer or fermented fruit.


Duration of action of the drug. From 14 to 21 days. At the end of the shelf life, it completely decomposes in the ground.

When to use? Manufacturers claim that the effectiveness of the drug remains even after frequent rains, but the experience of gardeners shows that the granules quickly dissolve in water (2-3 rainfalls are enough).

Has a detrimental drying effect on slugs upon direct contact. If ingested, it destroys the digestive system. The preparation should be spread in warm and dry weather, with the first appearance of slugs, in the midst of spring. Does not require special preparation and is available in ready-made granules. The consumption of the substance is 15 g per 5 sq.m.

Method of application : Scatters in the required places under the leaves of plants. For greater savings, you can place the granules between the rows.

Toxicity . 3rd class of danger to humans. The drug is dangerous for pets (especially dogs), adults and children. Not too toxic to fish, microorganisms and worms. Experts do not recommend spreading Metaldehyde near fruit-bearing plants. Even after thoroughly washing vegetables, fruits and berries where the drug was spilled nearby, there is a minimal risk that some of the poison remains.

Folk ways to fight slugs

Popular fantasy aimed at exterminating pests knows no bounds. In the most severe cases, when hordes of enemies threaten to destroy the entire harvest, desperate summer residents come up with absolutely incredible ways to fight slugs, and everything that is at hand is used: ammonia, eggs, pine needles and even beer. We list the most popular and effective means.

Wood ash

Many summer residents use wood ash to fight slugs. It is crushed and plants are pollinated with it. In addition to ash, mustard powder and ground pepper (black and red) are also used.

Some people make a mixture of different substances: ash, pepper and fine table salt are mixed and the resulting mixture is sprinkled on plants, paths and between rows.

  • 4 win-win ways to use wood ash in the country

    Useful recipes for using ash in your summer cottage.

Eggshell

Mollusks have very delicate skin on their abdomen, so they cannot crawl on any surface. If an obstacle in the form of a rough surface appears on the way to their favorite vegetables or flowers, the mollusks will not be able to reach the desired object. What can be used to create a barrier?

  • Eggshells – Crush the shells and place them around the plants.
  • Needles – spruce or pine needles will definitely not appeal to slugs. Instead of dry pine needles, you can take spruce branches.
  • Sand - for slugs to crawl on coarse sand, as for a person to walk on sharp stones. Not much pleasant.
  • Wood Sawdust – Prickly sawdust will also discourage you from walking on it.

Of course, this method will not get rid of slugs, but it will help protect the most valuable plants from damage and destruction.

Ammonia

Ammonia (ammonium hydroxide) is widely used in summer cottages. Most often, ammonia (after all, it contains nitrogen) is used to feed plants. However, it has also proven itself well as a means of controlling garden pests. Ammonia is also used in the fight against slugs. Dilute 100 g of ammonium hydroxide in a bucket of water and spray it on all plants that are tasty for slugs and water the soil near them. After a week, repeat the treatment.

  • Several ways to use ammonia in the garden

    It turns out that the usual ammonia can be useful not only in the home medicine cabinet, but also in the garden.

Beer

Beer is one of the most famous ways to fight slugs. Place several containers with an intoxicating drink on the site; you can completely or partially dig them into the ground. The heady aroma of beer attracts mollusks with incredible power. They crawl towards him from all sides of the area and, falling into the drink, drown in it. You need to go around the baits every day and remove dead pests from there. If you feel sorry for beer, you can replace it with fermented jam, compote or fruit: slugs also like their smell.

This method has one drawback - along with the slugs, midges, flies and other insects will also swim in the beer, which are also attracted by the hop aroma.

Traps

Slugs like to spend bright, dry days under cover where it is dark and damp. So use this weakness of theirs to fight the shellfish. Place pest traps throughout the area at a distance of about 5 m from each other: lay out sheets of slate, plywood, piles of plant debris, cardboard, wet rags, etc. If the soil is dry, water it first.

In search of shelters, slugs will definitely fall into the traps you set. After a day, go around them and collect all the slugs hiding there. Take it off your property and destroy it. If there is no one under the trap, move it to another place.

Never kill slugs on your property. Their smell will attract more shellfish, and the number of pests on your territory will only increase.

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