Cyclamen mite - causes of appearance and methods of control

There is no doubt that violet is the desired and most popular resident of window sills in many apartments. Florists cultivate this plant for its year-round flowering, variety of colors and shapes. It can rarely be said about violets that they are unpretentious plants to care for. In order for the plant to bloom and be able to please its owner for a long period of time, you will need to try a little. The most evil and dangerous enemies of the plant are ticks. The violet mite is an insect of microscopic size.

Mites on violets

These are one of the most dangerous pests of violets.
Although the damage from them is immediately noticeable, the mites themselves are very difficult to see with the naked eye. Most often they affect old leaves. There are several types of mites that affect violets: 1. Spider mite. The leaves look as if they have been pierced with a blunt needle, and brown sunken spots appear. 2. Cyclamen mite. If your young leaves are damaged, it is a cyclamen mite. Also, the leaves become deformed and yellow spots appear on them, and the center of the rosette becomes denser. When affected by this type of mite, the leaves become brittle and more pubescent. The big danger lies in the fact that the violet may stop growing, as the growth center dries out. 3. Red spider mite. When infested with red spider mites, red spots surrounded by cobwebs appear on the violet leaves.

There are other types of mites that cause great harm to violets. Although each species affects the plant differently, there are some signs that accurately indicate the presence of mites:

• The leaves of violets that have mites are more pubescent than others.
• Leaves and stems break very quickly, as pests of violets deplete it.
• The central leaves of the rosette become fragile, twist and stop growing.
• If a violet loses its buds and stops growing, it is highly likely that it has been affected by tarzonemid.
• Another sign of the presence of tarzonemid is accompanied by greater flowability of pollen, and its falling out on violet leaves.
• Take a magnifying glass or feel the leaves with your hands; if you notice compactions and roughness on the leaves, it means that mites have laid eggs on them.
• The flower stem becomes shorter, the leaves change color and become duller.
• Many small light dots appear on the leaves.

How to deal with this type of violet pest?

• With an interval of 7 days between treatments, spray the plant with acaricide 2-3 times. • The earthen clump of violet should be drenched with Fitoverm or Actellik.

It is very difficult to remove mites from violets; it is easier to prevent the appearance of these violet pests. What is needed for this?

• After purchasing a violet, do not place it with other plants for a while. • Follow the rules for caring for violets, and then the appearance of mites can be avoided. • Do not place pots too close to each other, this will prevent mites from “moving” from one plant to another. • Do not bring or place cut flowers near violets; they are likely to harbor mites. • Remove yellow, rotten leaves and wilted flowers immediately. • Bathe the flower during the hot season.

Prevention measures

Before taking urgent measures to destroy the pest colony and save Saintpaulia from death, it is necessary to carry out preventive measures:

• immediately treat a newly purchased violet with an acaricide and quarantine it for 3 weeks - this is how much time passes from the moment of infection until the tick turns into an adult. This applies to stepchildren and cuttings. After processing, put the latter for rooting;
• maintain plants in accordance with optimal conditions;
• remove dry, old and rotting leaves and flower stalks;
• wash Saintpaulias in the shower in the heat;
• do preventive treatment with acaricides before critical seasons;
• Do not place flowers close to each other.

Advice! If it was not possible to avoid mite damage and it is necessary to save this variety, then after treating it with an acaricide, try to root the cuttings. Try to select a leaf without traces of infection. To prevent fungal diseases, treat planting material with a fungicide.

Description of ticks

Mites are the tiniest of houseplant pests and are therefore very difficult to control. Not only mature individuals, but also larvae extract juice from plants. Since they are very small (the largest ticks are approximately one millimeter in size), they are very difficult to detect. And while spider mites can still be identified by the presence of cobwebs, some are difficult to distinguish from dust.

Common varieties

Below are the most common types of ticks, with a brief description of them, which will allow you to correctly identify the threat and take appropriate measures.

Spider mites

Spider mites are a family of mites from the superorder Acariformes. Found in all regions, including Antarctica. More than 1270 species, 95 genera. Tiny mites, less than 1 millimeter long. There are two pairs of eyes, the legs consist of five segments. Herbivores (including dangerous parasites of cultivated plants) secrete cobwebs. The most famous member of the family, the common spider mite (Tetranychus urticae), is widespread.

The mites are quite small. The color of the female is green in summer, orange-red in spring and autumn. The eggs are spherical, colorless, small. Settling on the underside of young leaves and covering them with cobwebs, mites draw juices from them and within 2-3 days provoke browning, curling and drying.

Plants are completely entangled in cobwebs. In the presence of warmth and food, ticks multiply until mid-September, especially strongly in dry and hot weather. Coolness and rain have a painful effect on ticks.

Flat pliers

Flat mites are extremely small mites, with a body length of 0.25 to 0.4 millimeters. The body of the tick is ovoid, brick or yellow in color. The most commonly found are the Red Flat Mite (or Orange Flat Mite) Brevipalpus obovatus, and similarly the Cactus Flat Mite Brevipalpus russulus. They attack cacti, citrus fruits, ficus, aucuba and other domestic plants.

These very small parasites are very difficult to detect and also do not make webs. A sign of the occurrence of these pests is the slow drying of leaves, and subsequently the death of the plant. Flat mites can also pose a danger because at normal room temperatures from 18 to 24°C they can reproduce throughout the year.

Cyclamen mites

Cyclamen mites (Phytonemus pallidus) are microscopic mites that cannot be seen with the naked eye. The size of an adult female Cyclamen mite is approximately 250µ (microns), and eggs are no more than 150µ.

One female lays up to three eggs every day, the total number of eggs in a clutch is from 12 to 16. The eggs are formed within three to seven days, the larvae need another 3-4 days to develop before pupation, the tick lives in the pupa for no more than a week, after which completely ready for reproduction.

The cyclamen mite is a parasite of many ornamental shrubs and flowers, such as cyclamen, violets, begonias, gerberas, ivy, chrysanthemums, geraniums, fuchsias, delphinium, petunia, snapdragons, and others. It also affects strawberries. Because of this, it has another name - strawberry mite.

The cyclamen mite mainly lives in the growing points of young shoots and emerging buds. High humidity and warmth favor the emergence of cyclamen mites, reducing the formation of new generations to two weeks.

Kinds

Of the hundreds of species of mites, only a few of the most common ones most often infect indoor crops.

Ordinary

One of the most common and dangerous species, as it is characterized by phenomenal omnivory. It affects most types of agricultural crops, but does not affect coniferous trees. The common mite harms indoor plants.

Red

Red pests often attack indoor flowers, especially roses, orchids, callas, and lemons. Tetranychus cinnabarinus loves warmth and reproduces well on indoor plants. The female tick has a brighter red color.

Atlantic

This species of tick (Atlanticus) reproduces rapidly in conditions of high humidity and temperature. Body size – 0.4 millimeters, color – yellow-green. Among domestic crops, he prefers citrus fruits and palm trees.

False

It is difficult to detect a false tick due to the lack of a web. Body size is 0.2-0.3 millimeters, usually colored green or red. Harmful to orchids, palm trees, citrus fruits.

Cyclamen

This type of mite selects certain crops, the main preference being cyclamens; in their absence, it will eat geraniums, gloxinias, and balsam. Loves heat and moisture, often infects greenhouses. Small bodies (0.1-0.2 millimeters) are almost invisible on the leaves; clusters of mites look like dust.

Wide

The broad tick rarely lives outdoors and prefers indoors. The eggs are poorly hidden, so it is easier to fight it. The food preferences of this species are cacti, citrus fruits, ficus, and oleander.

Cactus flat

Among flower growers, it is called the flat beetle. This mite does not have a web, so it is especially difficult to notice. Succulents and citrus fruits are most affected by the flat beetle.

Clover

A lover of cereal crops does not disdain indoor flowers. Due to its long legs, it moves easily and can quickly infect a large area. Ficus, pereromia, and euonymus trees suffer from this type of mite.

Fighting methods

You can get rid of mites on a rose either with the help of acaricides or by resorting to folk remedies. The choice of drug should always be based on the degree of infestation.

Chemicals

In the fight against spider mites with a large colony population, it is customary to use modern tools, which are acaricides.

"Actellik" is a drug from the organophosphorus group, characterized by intestinal contact action. The active substance is pirimiphosmethyl. Actellik provides reliable protection against parasites for 1-2 weeks. And to achieve a positive result, it is recommended to carry out the treatment twice - the second 7 days after the first. It is not suitable for use in domestic conditions, as it is quite toxic, but in open air it exhibits very good efficiency. To prepare the working solution, you need to dilute the contents of one ampoule (2 ml) in a liter of water

The prepared preparation is sprayed on the above-ground parts of the affected plants, paying special attention to the lower surface of the leaves. "Apollo" - destroys spider mites when they are in the egg, larvae and nymph phase, sterilizes adult individuals, which is why they lose their ability to reproduce. Its active ingredient is clofentesine

Apollo provides long-term plant protection: from 2 to 3 months. The treatment should also be carried out twice. If necessary, you can additionally use compounds from the same group. To prepare the working fluid, the contents of one ampoule (2 ml) are diluted in five liters of water.

"Floromite" - the main active component of this drug is biphenazate. Destroys a pest that is in the active stage of its development, and shows activity quite quickly - a couple of hours after treatment, the parasites lose their ability to damage plants. Maximum effectiveness is observed after 3-4 days and lasts about three weeks. Spraying is carried out twice at weekly intervals. The working solution is prepared from 2 ml of the product diluted in five liters of water. "Fitoverm" - this drug is a biological insectoacaricide with enteric contact action. Based on a natural complex of the soil fungus Stereptomyces avermitilis. Allowed for use in enclosed spaces. To obtain a positive result, it is advisable to carry out 3-4 treatments at weekly intervals. To prepare the working fluid, 2.5 ml of the drug is diluted in 1.25 liters of water.

Spraying should be carried out carefully, thoroughly wetting each rose bush with the solution.

However, it should be remembered that frequent use of broad-spectrum drugs can worsen the situation. This is due to the fact that such products destroy other insects, including those that are the natural enemies of spider mites. In addition, when roses are repeatedly sprayed with insecticides based on pyrethrins and phosphates, the concentration of nitrogen on the surface of the leaves increases, which is only beneficial for this pest.

Folk remedies

Sometimes it is possible to get rid of mites on a rose using folk recipes, which can be based on essential oils and alkaloids, as well as other natural compounds. Treatment with such solutions must be carried out at least three times with an interval of five to seven days.

Garlic infusion. To prepare it, you need to chop half a kilo of garlic and add three liters of water. After 5 days of infusion in a warm place, the product is filtered and diluted with water - 55-60 ml of the drug per 10 liters of water. Add 50 g of laundry soap to the prepared solution and use it to spray plants and soil.

Infusion of black henbane. Grind a kilo of dry raw materials and pour in 10 liters of water. Leave in a warm place for 12 hours, then filter and add 40-45 g of laundry soap. We carefully treat the infected rose bushes with the finished product. A soap solution works well against spider mites. Crushed laundry soap is diluted in water to create a lot of foam, and the leaves and stems are treated with the prepared solution. It is better to wipe the plant with a soft sponge.

As for tillage, it is very important to observe moderation - you need to spray the soil carefully, literally a few drops. Otherwise, the root system will be damaged, and the roses will simply dry out after a week.

Ways to fight

If your violet has been attacked by a pest, you need to know how to get rid of aphids at home.

Folk remedies

Many gardeners believe that they cannot eliminate aphids on their own. But if you take this procedure seriously, then after a certain period of time there will be a result.

IMPORTANT! To achieve the desired effect, the procedure must be carried out at least 4-5 times, every week.

When processing Saintpaulia by any means, the following precautions should be observed:

When processing Saintpaulia by any means, the following precautions should be observed:

• quarantine Saintpaulia;
• cut off severely affected parts;
• Processing should be carried out in the fresh air, in cloudy weather or in the evening.

Remember that in advanced cases, folk remedies are ineffective; they will only help temporarily delay the death of the plant.

Use of chemicals and biological products

These methods are the most effective and fastest.

When using any of the methods to eliminate pests, do not forget to treat the back side of the sheet. This is where the largest concentration of aphids is located.

Precautionary measures:

• use strictly according to instructions;
• try to alternate medications to prevent pests from becoming addicted to this substance;
• protect eyes and respiratory tract;
• work in well-ventilated areas.

When treating with any chemicals, do not forget to protect your eyes and respiratory tract.

If a mite is on a violet baby

The peak activity of ticks occurs during dry, hot weather in the summer or during the heating season in the cold season. They cannot cause much harm to adult healthy plants, but they can do it to young children. This is where you need to use acaricides - drugs against ticks. Dilute the drug in accordance with the instructions, spray rooted leaves with children and seated children. As a rule, one treatment is enough for the small plant to become stronger and mites no longer pose a threat to it. You can’t bathe “babies” the same way as adult specimens, and it’s problematic, they can catch a cold and get sick with gray rot. After spraying, place the babies in the warmest place. No covering with plastic bags, they will definitely rot there! You can place them under a table lamp with a low-power incandescent light bulb at such a distance as not to burn you; to check, you need to hold your hand in this place; if you feel a pleasant, gentle warmth, then you can place the plants.

Author of the article Rusinova T.A.

Read on the Gesneriev forum

Description and differences

Cyclamen or strawberry mites (lat. Phytonemus pallidus) are distinguished by their smallest sizes (100-250 microns), so they can only be examined with a microscope. According to the classification, they do not belong to insects, but to arthropods of the arachnid class.

Mites have a translucent light yellow body and 4 pairs of legs; they live on young shoots of green shoots and in buds. Their main diet consists of plant cell sap. In addition to indoor flowers, they also attack garden strawberry and wild strawberry bushes, which is why they received their second name.

Ticks are capable of reproducing very quickly: each female lays 12-16 eggs daily, from which larvae appear within 3-7 days, they quickly mature and turn into adults within a week, ready to reproduce further.

On a note!

The most important stimulator of their reproduction is dry air and warmth, which are a favorable environment for development. Therefore, the peak activity of cyclamen mites occurs in dry, hot weather in the summer months and during the heating period in winter.

Types of mites on houseplants

Among plant diseases, spider mites occupy a special place. Phytophages are persistent and difficult to remove pests, including several species:

• The common spider mite is a species common on the ground and indoors. Colonies settle on the underside of leaves, hiding from the sun's rays. Adults quickly crawl from the infected plant to neighboring flowers.
• Red mite - indoor plants often suffer from attacks by a small pest that settles on lemon, orchids, roses, and balsam. Soft-bodied females measuring 0.5 mm are purple, males 0.3 mm are bright red.
• False spider mite - has a miniature size of 0.25 mm; it does not spin webs. Infection becomes noticeable when there are a huge number of individuals.
• The Atlantic mite is similar in appearance to the spider mite. Propagates in any humidity, prefers palms and citrus trees.
• Cyclamen mite - affects the edges of leaves, buds and stems. Not noticeable to the naked eye. Colonies settle on the upper side of the leaves and look like a layer of dust. Pests choose cyclamens, balsams, chrysanthemums and other tuberous plants.
• The broad spider mite is a very prolific phytophage; a new generation appears on the leaves every 5 days. After 2-3 weeks, the plant becomes entangled in cobwebs and clusters of mites that look like reddish-brown dust. The pest attacks oleander, ficus, cactus, tagetis. Sulfur preparations are effective in combating it.
• Cactus flat mite - it is recommended to use insecticides to destroy phytophages. Carry out the treatment several times with an interval of 7 days.

The pest enters plants in various ways:

1. With an infected indoor flower. When purchasing a new plant, you should carefully examine its leaves. You won’t be able to spot a tick, but yellow dots on the leaves will make you think about the health of the plant.
   Advice. It is recommended to quarantine a new flower for 2 weeks. If it turns out that it is a carrier of the pest, only it will have to be treated, and the rest of the plants will not be harmed.

2. With soil.
   Store-bought or street soil may be fraught with danger in the form of females or spider mite larvae. Arachnids can enter diapause, a state of slow metabolism, under unfavorable conditions. They come to life as the temperature increases and the humidity decreases. After the start of the heating season, the pest begins active life. Advice. It is recommended to bake soil taken from the street in the oven.
3. Through an open window with the wind. Residents of the first floors risk their indoor plants more than others when the windows are open. Adults travel long distances with the wind, clinging to webs. The pest can be carried onto the balcony, and also enter the apartment on the clothes of summer residents. He is mobile, in search of food he actively explores new territories. A flower mite brought in with a fresh bouquet will be a threat to all indoor plants.

• Pests can appear in absolutely any soil; the main conditions for them are moisture and organic matter. There are a large number of factors for their development. When infected, the condition of the flower deteriorates significantly. Also, confirmation that the plant is infected is the presence of an unpleasant putrid odor that appears immediately after watering the flower.
• Some species, such as root mites, contribute to the rotting of orchids, gloxinia, and violets. Usually they stay close to the surface; if the condition of the flowers has deteriorated for no apparent reason, then the source of the problem must be sought in the ground. One of the signs of soil mite activity is the appearance of a putrid odor after watering.
• Since their sizes are very small, it will not be possible to examine the earthen mite. But you can do the following: take a small amount of soil and look with a regular magnifying glass. In addition to pests, in a flower pot there are also those individuals that do not bring any harm to the plant, but rather benefit, since they feed on mites, which are pests.
• For example, one such beneficial predator is the tick, which belongs to the Gamasoidea family. They have small body sizes that do not exceed 1 mm. The color of the body is sandy, and may have a light brown color. The body is round in shape and all covered with hairs. Most often they live closer to the surface and on the surface of the ground.
• There is no need to fight these mites; on the contrary, they are indispensable helpers for exterminating parasites. If there are no pests and microorganisms in the soil, they will disappear on their own.

Scale insect and false scale insect

This type of pest is dangerous because immediately after birth, scale insect larvae spread throughout the flower and begin to feed on violet juices. From their name you can understand that their characteristic feature is a small shield on their back. They prefer to spread on violet leaves. The larvae are very fast and can move to other plants, so as soon as you notice this pest on a violet, isolate the flower from others.

If a violet is affected by scale insects or false scale insects, you will notice the following signs:

• Violet leaves dry out and fall off. • A sticky secretion is produced that encourages the development of sooty fungus. • Yellow spots and brown plaques appear on the leaves.

If you notice these symptoms, start treatment immediately:

• Isolate the plant from all other flowers. • Be sure to rinse the plant in a warm shower. • Remove plaques with an alcohol solution or soap. • Treat the flower with a solution of water and machine oil, but be sure to rinse the plant after a day. Thanks to this solution, a thin film forms on the leaves, under which the scale insect will suffocate. • Change the top layer of soil. • Treat the violet with an insecticide (Fitoverm, Aktara).

The false scale insect enters the apartment only from another, new plant. For this reason, keep purchased flowers in quarantine. For prevention, inspect the flowers from time to time and wash them in the shower. The most important thing is proper care and hygiene.

Treatment schemes for killing mites on violets

To shorten the time it takes for the larvae to emerge from the eggs and reduce the period of their development, it is necessary to maintain the air temperature above 20°C. The optimal option is 25°C. And this also applies to night time. Now you can act according to several schemes.

Here are the most popular ones:

1. First scheme. This option is perfect for apartments, houses and other residential buildings. Acaricidal drugs Sunmite, Nissoran, and any other drugs from the avermectin category (for example, Vetimek, Akarin, Actofit, Fitoverm) are used. First you need to treat the leaves with Sunmite until they are completely wet. You will need 1 g of substance per 1 liter of water. This product kills all forms of ticks, not only adults, but also larvae and eggs. But, despite the high effectiveness of Sunmite, it is recommended to repeat the treatment using Nissoran after 5 days. You will need to dilute 0.5 g per 1 liter of water. In parallel, use avermectins at a rate of 10 ml per 1 liter. It is better not to use Sunmite again so that the pest does not get used to it.
2. Second scheme. This option is also recommended for use in residential buildings. You will need Sunmite and Judo (Oberon). First you need to treat with Sunmite (1 g of product per 1 liter of water). Then, after 5 days, carry out the procedure again, but use the second drug at a consumption of 0.3 ml per 1 liter of water.
3. Third scheme. This option is also suitable for living rooms. This scheme is used if it was not possible to purchase Sunmite. You will need drugs from the avermectin group, as well as Envidor, Oberon, Nissoran. It is necessary to mix avermectin with another remedy from the listed ones. Consumption rates are described above. Then spray twice (the second is required 5 days after the first procedure).
4. Fourth scheme. This option is used only in non-residential enclosed spaces. Actellik is used. It has fumigation properties, that is, it evaporates quickly and actively. This is why good sealing of the room where the violets are located is necessary. And you will have to wait a week. It is recommended to pack plants in a plastic bag if their quantity is small. For a large collection, it is best to seal the room - seal all openings, ventilation passages, doors, windows. You will need to use Actellik at a rate of 3 ml per 1 liter of liquid. By the way, the processing may not be thorough. The product will evaporate, and this is enough to kill even hidden pests.
5. Fifth scheme. This option is considered very simple, but at the same time the most dangerous. It is strictly forbidden to use such a scheme in living rooms. Marshall is used - a systemic insecticide with a pronounced acaricidal and nematicidal effect. The main active component of the product is carbosulfan. It is necessary to dilute the substance 3 ml per 1 liter of water. Spraying is fine. The treatment can be carried out not thoroughly, since the substance is quickly absorbed into the plant and then spreads to its other tissues.

Folk remedies

It is advisable to fight spider mites with “grandmother’s” means only if the pests have not yet proliferated greatly, otherwise the use of methods is ineffective.

Spraying

Most often, infusions, herbal decoctions and solutions made from products harmful to parasites are used in the fight against spider mites. The composition is poured into a container with a spray bottle and used for generous spraying of infected flowers. The procedure must be repeated every three to five days until the pests disappear. Five or more sessions are usually required.

To prepare the infusion, the raw materials are poured with boiling water, settled and filtered. The table below will tell you what and how to prepare the product.

Table - Infusions for processing flowers

Herbal infusions are also used in the fight against ticks, although their preparation is more labor-intensive. Two remedies are most effective.

1. From dry grass and yarrow flowers. Pour a liter of boiling water over 100 g of raw material, boil for three minutes, leave for three to four hours, filter.
2. From the roots of cyclamen. Cut several tubers into cubes, pour boiling water over them, cook for 40 minutes, cool, filter.

You can also treat with solutions from the following table.

Table - Solutions for processing flowers

Another composition for spraying: pour wood ash with boiling water in a ratio of 1:10, leave for a day and dilute with water, maintaining a ratio of 1:2, add crushed laundry soap (4 g per liter).

Ash can harm flowers that prefer acidic soil: azaleas, camellias, heathers, rhododendrons.

Rubbing

This method is more time-consuming than spraying, but it allows you to remove a certain number of mites from the affected plant. The therapy is carried out in three steps.

1. Preparation. Moisten a cotton pad or soft cloth with the prepared product.
2. Treatment. Wipe the leaves and stems, rinsing the cloth frequently in the mixture.
3. Repetition. Do the treatment every three to five days until the pests disappear completely.

The following products are used for wiping:

medical alcohol - in its pure form, applied in a thin layer so that the plant does not get burned (suitable only for hard-leaved plants: orchids, hibiscus, dieffenbachia, date palm); ammonia - 3 ml of the drug per 1 liter of water; rosemary essential oil - two to four drops per 1 liter of water; vodka - diluted with water in a ratio of 1:2.

Hot shower

The development of spider mites stops at temperatures above 40 °C: jets of hot water can wash off the pests from the leaves of the plant. The procedure is carried out in three steps.

1. Preparation. Protect the pot with earthen substrate with a plastic bag so that hot water does not damage the roots.
2. Temperature selection. Ideally, the water temperature should be approximately 44-47°C; for ficus benjamina, hibiscus or monstera, this figure can be increased to 52°C.
3. Treatment. Wash the stems and leaves of the flower on both sides. Processing time is no more than three to four minutes.

First, you need to do three procedures with an interval of three to four days, then repeat the session once a week for a month, and then once a month for prevention.

A hot shower should not be used to treat indoor flowers with tender and drooping leaves. For example, violets.

Products for “delicate” plants

What to do if the plant cannot be sprayed, wiped or placed under running hot water (for example, succulents)? Resourceful gardeners advise using one of two methods.

1. "Fragrant" greenhouse. Place a container with a product whose fumes are harmful to pests next to the pot, cover with a plastic bag, and leave for several hours. Finely chopped garlic or turpentine can be used as a “flavoring”.
2. Home steam room. Transfer the plant to the bathroom, close the door, and turn on a hot shower, setting the water temperature to maximum. After eight minutes, when the room is filled with warm steam, you need to time it for 10-15 minutes and leave the flower in the bathroom for this time.

Thrips on violets and how to combat them

Thrips are a herbivorous harmful insect, easily distinguished from other parasites due to the characteristic appearance of the head, wings and legs. They are quite small, with an oblong body, no more than 1.5 mm.

Larvae and adult thrips.

A distinctive feature of the head is the sloping forehead, with a triangular lower lip, cone-shaped and the apex directed downwards and backwards. The antennae are rather short and have from 6 to 9 segments.

The function of the oral apparatus is both piercing and suction. It has a trio of piercing bristles moving along a peculiar groove. The bristles moving along the groove not only have a piercing function, but also, having a grooved depression on the paired bristles of the lower jaw, act as a suction tube.

It is this construction of the cavity that determines the way the parasites feed. The sucked juices of the plant pass into the digestive system, providing the insect with life.

There is a fringe on the edge of the transparent wings, due to which they are often called fringed-winged insects (Thysanoptera).

The color of the pest can be very diverse and regardless of the species, even among individuals of the same species, the color can vary noticeably. Typically, the color ranges from transparent white or yellow to dark brown or black.

The legs have teeth for hooks and tiny bubbles, which helps them to easily attach to the underside of the leaf plates.

It is a little problematic to see these parasites with the naked eye on Saintpaulias. Typically, flower growers recognize the presence by traces of their vital activity:

• empty, browned and dried anthers;
• the pistil bases take on a thickened appearance;
• the fleeting flowering of violets;
• silvery color of leaf blades with the presence of excrement;
• deformation and twisting of sheet plates inward;
• pollen shedding.

Important! Thrips is a small, fairly nimble, well-flying and quickly spreading, nasty insect pest that primarily destroys what delicate indoor violets are grown for - flowers. Therefore, it is necessary to fight them uncompromisingly, until they are completely destroyed.

External manifestations of the lesion

Not only the adult individual, but also the larvae feed on cell sap from plant tissue, which naturally affects parts of the plant. Below you will find photos and signs of violets being damaged by thrips.

Thrips on a violet flower.

The manifestation of lesions from initial to subsequent looks like this:

• spots of yellow or discolored color;
• stripes and peculiar streaks caused by the scattering of pollen;
• merging spots and stripes into one whole;
• sticky coating on leaf blades;
• formation of holes due to tissue death;
• wilting, curling of leaves, followed by falling;
• falling of unopened buds;
• loss of the decorative appearance of flowers and their rapid fall;
• extensive distribution of parasites;
• manifestation of silvery areas;
• curvature of plant parts (petioles and stems);
• damaged flower buds provoke deformation of flowers;
• traces of excrement.

Another danger of thrips lies in the fact that they are carriers of many dangerous plant diseases.

Consequences for the flower

The greatest danger is that thrips reproduce very quickly and repeatedly (4 to 6 times). The female lays eggs in the pulp of the leaf.

The development of the insect occurs within a month:

• egg-larva;
• immobile larva (analogous to a pupa);
• adult.

The larva at the first level moves very quickly in search of food.

The leaves are mainly damaged. On the inside of the leaf blades, thrips lays a large colony, which causes white spots to appear on the outside of the leaf. The leaf blade becomes gray-brown in color with a peculiar silvery sheen.

Massive accumulation turns the leaf whitish or discolored. Subsequently it turns brown and falls off. But more harm is done to flowers, which lose their decorative properties - they become covered with various kinds of spots and lose their attractiveness due to deformation.

Sticky black discharge from the presence of insects is a place where sooty fungus settles. Therefore, the presence of thrips is usually accompanied by a bacterial or fungal infection.

Sooty fungus has been added to thrips.

And although there are quite a lot of species of such insect pests, there is no need to understand and find out their species. They all have practically the same characteristics and the same measures to combat them.

Important! Untimely control of the pest, which allows the population to grow, quickly leads to the complete death of the plant.

Detection and control measures

Among the most dangerous mites, the one that primarily attacks indoor plants is the cyclamen mite (Phytonemus pallidus). Its dimensions are measured in microns, so the parasite can only be seen under a microscope.

However, the mite affects not only cyclamens; it can seriously harm Saintpaulia, Gloxinia, Kalanchoe, balsams and other indoor plants. As a rule, larvae and adults settle at the growth point, while young leaves become deformed, wrinkled and covered with gray or brown fluff. Flowers do not bloom, buds fall off.

The cyclamen mite develops very quickly in warm conditions and high humidity. Severely affected plants appear as if covered in dust.

Ticks reproduce extremely quickly. The young generation can be formed every three weeks, and under suitable conditions even after two. Therefore, if infection is suspected, the affected plants should be separated and fenced off.

Detection of cyclamen mite

The presence of an uninvited guest can be judged only by indirect external signs. In Saintpaulia, the main thing to pay close attention to is the deformation of flowers, which take on an unusual shape, often do not open at all, fly around at the bud stage, and have an abnormal color. The shoot is deformed, fresh leaves are affected, and they curl in every possible way. Long hairs on young leaves are clearly visible.

In other plants, these mites also often provoke deformation and depigmentation of damaged plant organs. They lead to drying out and deformation of the shoots, and changes in the shape of the leaves. Flowers may develop spots and may not bloom. These pests love high humidity, so they usually settle in the folds of young leaves, in the buds, where there is more moisture.

Prevention of occurrence

Regarding prevention, there are no particularly effective methods in this case. The housewife must regularly monitor the general health of all her houseplants.

As soon as one of these signs is identified, the fight against the tick should be started in a timely manner. If this is not detected in time, then in addition to the death of the affected plant itself, all the flowers located in the house may fall into the danger zone.

Measures to combat the cyclamen mite

If there is a suspicion that a plant is infested with a mite, it must be immediately isolated from other flowers. If there are few infected specimens, then the parasite can be destroyed by treating the plants with warm water (up to 40–45 °C). All habitats of the parasite are removed from the affected flower and kept in water together with the pot for approximately 15 minutes, trying to maintain the required temperature throughout the treatment. The disinfected flower is moved to a warm place for 2-3 days, protected from the sun.

Significantly damaged specimens are easier to propagate from healthy lobes, and destroy everything else, preventing the spread of the parasite.

You can also fight the cyclamen mite with chemical means. When choosing a drug, it is necessary to take into account that ticks are not insects, and drugs to combat parasitic insects will not affect them. They should be combated with specialized means - acaricides.

A characteristic feature of pests is their fertility, which is why they quickly adapt to poisons. When destroying them, it is necessary to continuously change the drugs used. Acaricides must be used at least 3 times, each time using a different drug. This is explained by the fact that not all drugs act on all generations of parasites. The next time you use a new drug, you increase the likelihood of killing parasites of all ages. The most effective remedies are considered to be Sunmite, Neoron, Omite.

The products must be used outdoors or in non-residential premises with good ventilation. When treating the plant, you should also treat the soil in the pot. You can increase the effectiveness of the products if you place the treated plant in a plastic bag and wait at least eight hours.

Preparations that exterminate ticks are very toxic and pose a danger to humans; when using them, it is necessary to use personal protective equipment.

After completion of the treatments, flowers are placed in quarantine and kept away from other specimens. After about a month, when new shoots appear and no symptoms of mites are detected, the flower can be returned to its old place.

Anti-mite treatment

How to treat: everything is simple and straightforward - the plant must be thoroughly sprayed with the preparation until it is “very wet”, so that not a single untreated square millimeter of surface remains on the entire plant, and not just on the leaves. Just like that, casually spraying on the leaves “for prevention” is an empty and useless exercise. In general, treatments for preventive purposes have the same basis and meaning as drinking medicine by a healthy person in order to prevent a disease. Drug treatments are not plant vaccination; they only make sense if a pest is present.

The frequency and frequency of treatments with avermectins and any preparations in general depend on the type of pest (the time of reproduction of the pest from egg to egg, the presence of periods of non-feeding of the larvae, etc. are taken into account). In turn, the development time of the mite depends on the ambient temperature, which must also be taken into account for the correct choice of treatment schedule. The minimum period between treatments is 3 days, selected at a temperature of about 30*C, when the mite reproduces as quickly as possible. At a temperature of about 20*C, treatments can be carried out after 5 days, but their number remains the same - at least three, and it is better to do four treatments. And, of course, treatments with avermectins lose their meaning at temperatures below 18*C, at which mites stop feeding and go into diapause.

By the way, when treating with Fioverm, it is reasonable to minimize the penetration of the drug into the soil; the roots, if the drug flows abundantly into the ground, may suffer from the alcohol contained in the drug.

Woodlice

While ticks breed when it's too hot, woodlice love dampness. Probably everyone has seen these creatures; they are very small crustacean insects. Woodlice that appear on violets are most often white in color. They pose a great threat to young violets.

Woodlice appear in damp and loose soil, damaging the leaves and root system of violets. Don’t be surprised if you see woodlice in your area; they could have gotten to you from a damp basement. If you live in a house, then you have probably seen them yourself quite often. You can get rid of woodlice in the same way as you can get rid of ticks; treat the violet with an acaricide according to the instructions.

How can you tell if there are mites on a violet?

As a rule, violets are attacked by strawberry, cyclamen, transparent and greenhouse varieties of mites. All of them belong to the same family - tarzonemids. These creatures prefer high humidity. They parasitize mainly in the central parts of rosette-type plants, so streptocarpus and violets are under threat. In addition, there are also separate varieties of soil mites, which, when air humidity increases, begin to come out and damage flowers.

According to many experts, the plant can be affected by individuals of not just one type, but several varieties. So no particular poison can completely eradicate them. To get rid of pests, you need to create conditions for them so that they want to change their environment. The environment must be unfavorable for their reproduction.

To determine that a plant is affected by mites, you need to pay attention to the presence of the following signs:

1. In the center of the rosette the leaves begin to twist. They become more brittle and then stop growing altogether. This indicates that the violet was attacked by a cyclamen-type mite.
2. Pollen spills from the anther onto the petals. You may notice that the anthers themselves are slightly damaged, but if you carefully examine them through a magnifying glass, you will not be able to notice the parasites. This is a symptom that the violet has been infected by mites from the tarzanemid group.
3. Violet leaves are compacted in some places; when palpated, a rough surface is felt on their villi. This indicates the presence of egg laying of any type of mite.
4. The leaves droop, and this symptom is more pronounced than under other conditions.
5. The leaves become dull. It seems as if they are sprinkled with ash or dandruff. A grayish or brownish tint appears. The stems become shorter. This can be a symptom of strawberry, cyclamen, or any other type of mite.
6. Leaves become too brittle. The same applies to petioles.
7. The buds either do not bloom at all or begin to fall off. This is due to the presence of tarzonemides.
8. On the leaves there are noticeable many dots of a lighter shade than the leaf itself. These are places where parasites bite through tissue. If part of the flower is severely affected, it gradually loses color and dries out.

Signs of damage to violets

You can determine that parasites have settled on indoor plants by the following external signs (see photo of mites on violets):

• the appearance of a “dusty” coating in the folds of young green leaves, in the nascent buds and in the apical shoots of violets;
• the growth of the flower slows down and its deformation occurs, the leaves turn yellow, fade and become brownish-gray, then curl;
• leaves and petioles become brittle and dry;
• the buds wither and fall off before they have time to open;
• Long hairs appear on young leaves, which signal the appearance of the cyclamen parasite.

Cyclamen mite on violets

Important!

If such signs of mites are detected on violets, cyclamens and other house plants, it is necessary to immediately isolate them from other flowers. Then you need to start treating it.

Prevention of insects affecting indoor Saintpaulias

To avoid the spread of insects to all your plants, just take simple measures:

Have you treated Saintpaulias for pests?

RegularNo

For all new violets, quarantine conditions must be created for 14-20 days. Spraying with chemicals is not necessary. If no signs of insect activity are found within the specified period of time, you can safely put the violet on the shelf along with the others. It is not recommended to place flowers plucked from the flower bed next to the violets. To prevent insects from crawling from a diseased violet to a healthy one, the plants should not touch their leaves. Regular wet cleaning of the premises is the key to the health of violets. This helps maintain the required humidity and prevents insects from moving along with the dust. Pots and trays must be disinfected before use. Before replanting, any soil, even purchased soil, must be sterilized. Garden soil should absolutely not be used as a substrate for growing violets due to the presence of many microorganisms in it. It is better to collect soil in the forest.

• From time to time it is necessary to bathe the plant. This allows you to wash off adult insects and their larvae from violet leaves.
• Withered leaves and faded buds must be pruned in a timely manner

Saintpaulias not blooming? There may be several reasons for this; we will discuss them in detail in our next article.

Failure to comply with proper care conditions (temperature, humidity, lighting), as well as frequent watering, weakens the plant.

In this state, it cannot resist attacks from parasites.

Amateur flower growers always want to protect their plants from pests. Unfortunately, this is not always possible.

Therefore, it is very important to know methods of dealing with uninvited guests. The tips given in this article will help in the fight against the main insects that can ruin violets

And so as not to have to use them, do not forget about preventive treatments of the plant and timely transplants.

Main pests of violets

Mealybug

Mealybugs are scale insects 3-6 mm in size, covered with white fluff. Visible to the naked eye in leaf axils, in young buds and on young leaves.

Mealybug.

Damaged surfaces leave behind a white coating resembling cotton wool.

Both adults and larvae are dangerous.

More detailed information about mealybugs with photos and the fight against them is discussed here.

Thrips

Adult thrips are dark-colored flying insects measuring 1-1.5 mm; the larvae are small yellow.

They damage the leaves, leaving white stripes, as well as the buds, leaving a scattering of pollen; the flower blooms with damaged anthers.

Thrips.

Brown or black spots appear on the leaves and flowers of the plant.

More information about the fight against thrips is written here.

Ticks

Ticks are microscopic in size and impossible to see with the naked eye. Violets are usually affected by the following types of mites:

• arachnoid;
• cyclamen;
• flatfish.

Mite on a violet.

Ticks feed on violet juice, as a result of which the foliage curls, droops, practically stops growing, and has a dusty appearance. The growing point takes on a grayish tint. The buds become deformed and do not open.

More details about ticks with photographs and their treatment are written in this article.

Aphid

Aphids primarily harm flowering plants. These small green insects are visible to the naked eye and form colonies in buds or on the inner surface of leaves.

Aphid.

Aphids feed on plant sap. After an aphid attack, the leaves become deformed and wither. White sticky aphid secretions appear on the plant.

You will learn more information about aphids with photos and how to treat violets from this insect in this article.

Midges

Midges and mosquitoes (sciarids) are insects that, as a rule, do not harm Saintpaulia.

The danger comes from larvae that destroy the soil, making it more dense and making it difficult for air to penetrate, resulting in damage to the root system.

Sciarid fly.

If the population of adults grows, they will begin to feed on violet leaves and petioles.

You will learn what to do if violets are infested with midges from the video at the end of our article.

Nematodes

Nematodes are 2 mm worms that live in the soil. Nematodes damage the roots of the plant, sucking juices from them and at the same time releasing harmful substances. In places of damage, harmful formations (galls) are formed.

Nematode.

To detect the parasite, you need to remove the plant from the pot and examine the root system.

Woodlice

Woodlice are small land crustaceans that resemble small white armadillos in appearance. They quickly increase their population, while feeding on the roots and leaves of Saintpaulia.

Woodlouse.

They pose a particular danger to children and starters. Woodlice are nocturnal, which is when they can be seen with the naked eye.

Shchitovka

Scale insects and false scale insects are similar in appearance, similar to a small shield. To distinguish them, you need to try to remove them from the plant, in which case the shield of the scale insect will come off, and the false scale insect will come off along with the shield.

Shield.

Both adults and larvae cause harm by feeding on violet juice and secreting a sticky liquid. They live on leaves or petioles.

Springtails and springtails

Springtails and springtails live on the surface of the ground and, in principle, do not harm violets.

Their size is 2-4 mm, the color is white, cream, sometimes greenish. In the back of their body they have a growth that looks like a small fork, and it is with its help that they jump.

Springtails.

During mass dispersal, young roots of Saintpaulia can be damaged.

What kind of plant is this?

Cyclamen has an interesting root shape. It is a flattened corm of a regular round shape. Its diameter is 15 cm. It has one growing point, and not several, like other indoor plants. How can you characterize the leaves? They are leathery, basal and heart-shaped. They grow on petioles, the length of which is 30 cm. The color of the leaves is dark green, and the pattern on them is grayish-silver.

When flowering on cyclamen, the buds of the original shape open. From the outside it seems that strange butterflies are perched on top of the leaves on the flower stalks. Why is this impression created? Because the buds are pointed and bent. They have a fringed shape. Depending on the type of cyclamen, the flowers can be purple, red or burgundy. Flowering duration is 3 months.

Attention! Although some gardeners consider cyclamen capricious, in fact it is not like that

It’s just important to follow some care requirements, and it won’t cause any trouble.

Use of chemicals

The first step in treating mites should be the complete elimination of all affected parts of the plant and infected flower stalks. Then it is necessary to wipe the leaves and other green parts of the violet using acaricidal agents: Actofit, Fitoverm, Akarin, Agravertin. To completely get rid of ticks, the procedure must be repeated every 3 days, and then every 5 days. If the damage is severe, it is recommended to completely dip the violet bush into a solution with acaricide or avermectin agents.

On a note!

Popular chemical insecticides have no effect on ticks at all. Arthropods very quickly develop resistance to the poison, and it does not destroy their eggs - they can remain viable for several years.

Chemical measures to combat ticks involve frequent changes of drugs to increase the effectiveness of the fight and reduce addiction to them. Therefore, treatment with acaricides should be carried out in several stages, changing the drug each time.

Such drugs as Kleschevit, Antiklesch, Neoron, Sunmite, Omite have a good effect on ticks. However, the treatment should be carried out in a non-residential area, and after spraying the violets should be covered with polyethylene for 8-24 hours.

Chemical pest control

Due to the high toxicity of these drugs, it is necessary to use personal protective equipment (respirator, gloves and protective clothing).

Precautions when processing violets:

• Do not prepare the solution in containers intended for food;
• there is no need to add soap, since alkalis are incompatible with avermectin products;
• all prepared solutions should be used quickly, and then the remains should be destroyed;
• Treatment cannot be carried out in a residential area - it is dangerous for the health of people and pets.

Important!

After processing and treatment, the violet bush must be quarantined, that is, isolated from healthy specimens. And only after 3-4 weeks, after the appearance of fresh shoots and the obvious absence of signs of mites, the flower can be moved to its usual place.

Prevention of flower diseases

To avoid unpleasant situations with the appearance of pests on a flower, follow these rules:

1. Carefully inspect existing and newly acquired plants for pests.
2. Buy only healthy and high-quality planting material from trusted suppliers in specialized stores.
3. Isolate damaged flowers from healthy plants.
4. Disinfect dishes and soil before planting and replanting a flower.
5. Significantly increase the resistance of cyclamens to pests by regular and proper watering, ventilation of the room, and proper feeding and lighting.

In order for your plant to enjoy its healthy and blooming appearance for a long time, it is very important to know about all the rules for caring for it. We have prepared materials for you on how to eliminate such problems with cyclamen: the plant dies, the flower stalks dry out, the flower is flooded, the leaves wither and dry out.

Preventive actions

• Of course, the main preventive action is proper plant care. This includes fertilizing, watering, maintaining the correct temperature and lighting. Most often, infection occurs on bushes that are weakened and do not receive the necessary care, but healthy bushes are no less vulnerable to pests.
• To prevent difficult situations, experts recommend regularly bathing plants. This should be done at a time when there is a peak in activity, namely dry and hot weather. In addition, it is recommended to move the bushes to other places during this period so that they are not adjacent to other plants.
• Bathing is carried out as follows. The procedure can only be carried out under running water. When using a basin or bucket, pests enter the water and re-infestation occurs. While holding the bush, it is necessary to wash the lower parts of each leaf.
• You can only wipe the leaves under water with your finger; using sponges and rags will help spread the pest throughout the bush. Avoid getting water into the pot, on the flowers and in the center of the rosette. Water at a temperature of 40°C is used, but during the flowering period the temperature is reduced, the water should be slightly warm.
• Water procedures are not carried out in winter if there is no heating. When rotten leaves are visible on the plant, the procedure is not carried out. When the procedure is completed, it is necessary to remove moisture from the leaves using a regular napkin.

Reasons for the appearance of insects on a flower

The most common reasons for the appearance of pests on cyclamen are improper care and unfavorable conditions for keeping it.

1. Pests attack the flower when the temperature, lighting and humidity are incorrect.
2. Excessive or insufficient watering of plants, an incorrectly selected substrate, the presence of drafts, and unbalanced feeding also provoke the appearance of insect pests.
3. Pests often enter a room on a flower purchased in a store. Therefore, it is so important to inspect all parts of the plant for insects before purchasing.
4. In spring and summer, indoor flowers are often taken out onto the balcony and loggia, where they can also become infected with insects.
5. Soil for replanting taken from open ground can be dangerous for the plant, as it may contain pupae and larvae of pests.

Related article: Indoor bushes and shrubs with names and photos

Security measures

When using chemicals, it is imperative to wear rubber gloves, a respirator and clothing that covers the body. During processing, containers that are used in the kitchen and when preparing food are not used.

Do not use soap in solutions, as it will significantly reduce the effect of the active ingredients. Solutions for treatment should be prepared immediately before use, and the remains should be disposed of. The procedure must be carried out outdoors; when carried out in residential premises, it can harm the health of people and animals.

After the treatment is carried out, the bushes are placed in quarantine, where they will be isolated from other plants. After 3-4 weeks, it is necessary to inspect the violet, leaves and young shoots; when there are no signs of infection, the violet can be returned to other colors.

How to recognize a tick

I have been trying to grow violets since January 2011 . And still nothing. Let's look at my mistakes together and look for the reasons. We will draw conclusions and clearly understand what the problem might look like. How can I eliminate it? I will be glad if my experience is useful to someone.

The first flaws were attributed to my inexperience and violation of agricultural technology. At the same time, I, like all crazy violet growers, saw all the signs of a mite in violets. There are no exact descriptions of the signs of mite damage in the initial stage of the disease on websites about violets. And the signs themselves are similar to other flaws in cultivation. Mostly on the Internet, photos show already eaten rosettes with ugly leaves in the center. I didn't have any such horror stories.

The first year was spent selecting soil . In the next version, dolomite flour was added to the composition. The babies' leaves have become hard. They looked something like this.

I changed the composition of the soil, eliminating dolomite flour - the soil was based on coconut, peat, perlite, vermiculite. After transplanting, the violets moved a little and froze again. The leaves were twisted and distorted.

This is a baby Snow Edelweiss. Suffering.

We are nursing, but the suffering of Snow Edelweiss continues. Unpainted spots are visible on the upper leaves. Looks like a propeller. But this is not a sign.

Next, baby Summer twilight, April 2013. The middle is a little clogged and the leaves are a bit harsh. Everything was written off as a violation of agricultural technology.

I kept looking for a reason. And in order to eliminate all doubts about the mite, inspired by Lyudmila Milaya’s article, in April 2013 she treated all violets with Actofit according to the proposed scheme, 4 times with an interval of 3 and the last time - 5 days. I didn’t spray the rosettes, but dipped them completely into the solution. Both pots and window sills were treated.

Here is the same Snow Edelweiss plant after dressing, November 2013.

The bottom row of leaves of Snowy edelweiss 1,2,3 is crumpled, brittle, hard; 1- spots along the edge (as if from overflow), 4 leaves are underdeveloped. The new leaves are a joy.

Next is the already familiar Summer Twilight rosette, November 2013, after dressing with Actofit.

We observe different sizes, or rather underdevelopment, of leaves in the middle row. This was exactly the growth point at the time of etching in April 2013. The center has straightened out. For your information, the outlet in the photo is over a year old. And she still needs a 50g glass. Development... leaves much to be desired - it has never bloomed yet.

Next we look at LE Lunar Dreams, November 2013, after the April dressing with Actofit

The lower leaves are bitten, the lowest ones are underdeveloped. The new ones grow normally, but slowly. Again growth stopped.

After the April 2013 treatment with Actofit, I received a restful sleep and confidence that the tick was simply excluded from my small collection.

In December 2013, I again noticed a stunt in growth. Violets live on my windowsill without additional lighting. Increased hairiness appeared in the center of some rosettes. I decided that it was winter—the violets were sleeping. And fluffiness can also appear from dry air from the battery.

My suspicions were revived as a copy of the Pink Watercolor rosette took root. Here, see for yourself.

This photo is Pink watercolor, January 2014. More precisely, it is the crown that grew next to the missing growing point on the pickled stump of the mother plant. I cut it down and re-rooted it in November 2013. But it is in no hurry to grow. And those twisted leaves in the center...

Baby Frozen In Time, January 2014. The lower leaves are dying. The growth point became deformed and hardened. Growth has stopped.

Next exhibit. Also very suspicious. The leaves are twisted.

These are two Bukey Irish Lace babies, January 2014, grown from a leaf fragment. Liszt also thought for a long time and threw himself away prematurely. Let's move on.

This is baby Smoky Emerald, January 2014. It seems to be even, but the leaves are waxy.

Leaf of the Stone Flower, January 2014. Placed for rooting in a zip bag. An ideal environment for the development of “bugs” in the microclimate. Shown as an example because it has become completely hard—waxy. And this arouses suspicion - you know who’s presence...

Although, looking at the Stone Flower rosette itself (January 2014) you wouldn’t think:

Apart from two underdeveloped leaves marked in red in the middle row, there are no special signs of invasion. The leaves are not hard.

Not all sockets were affected. Some turned out to be tenacious and gave good growth after the April 2013 treatment.

This is the January 2014 Buckeye Elusive Stars rosette. Strong variety. The leaves are slightly curled in the middle, which can also happen due to dry air. It has one more dried up leaf and a peduncle that has been frozen since November 2013. Although, if I were in his place, I wouldn’t bloom in winter without additional lighting either. Let's look further.

Gardens of Babylon - the rosette has dried up after the growing point has disappeared. Treatment in April 2013 did not revive her. There is a leaf left and it is also waxy. The stalk has rotted and the top is drying out. There were suspicions of agricultural technology, a tick, and some kind of disease.

Finally, the most affected adult outlet is King's Ransom. Photo January 2014 (etched in April 2013).

It's hard to show. The mature lower row of leaves is not severely damaged and is not stiff. The middle row of leaves began to dry out in November 2013 and disappeared completely. The leaves in the center froze. Drying and dying are visible on the petioles near the stem.

Actually, this was the picture for the next decisive step.

All these deteriorations in the development of plants suggested the presence of uneaten or newly acquired living creatures. I read articles about ticks. I don't have a microscope. I took an ordinary magnifying glass and a flashlight.

I looked closely for a long time. And what do you think? How did I feel when I noticed a subtle movement on the cutting of the top leaf. A transparent, barely noticeable speck of dust was moving. I took a closer look. And there... there are many of the same, but immovable. A transparent greenhouse mite was identified. Their males move, the other stages do not.

photo taken from source: adenium-doma.ru/forum/7-6-1

Let's consider an object - a habitat for ticks.

Here, on the baby Buckeye Irish Lace, the fact of tick activity has already been established. Result - 1 leaf is hard, twisted, underdeveloped, 2 lower ones are flaccid - dies, 3 - has not grown.

In addition, upon further inspection, cheerfully frolicking gomazoid or putrefactive mites (larger and clearly visible under a magnifying glass and with the naked eye) were found on the soil. They were written in detail by the user Svetlana here

As for the rest of the plants examined, there is no doubt that all the problems are also the results of the mite’s life, but they just look different. Perhaps each plant reacts individually, so the symptoms are different for everyone. There is no big picture. It appears when it is impossible to save the rosette (it’s easier to grow an even one again).

And everything fell into place. This is after three years of trying. And spots and drying out, curling of leaves and increased pubescence and hard waxy leaves and slow growth and rotting of the root part of the stem and cuttings.

All these are my personal conclusions, perhaps yours will differ from mine.

I consider even a negative result as a positive experience.

I decided to strengthen the fight against it. We don't give up. We do not sell JUDO or Oberon. After reading the article on Dimetris, I purchased the drug Envidor with the active ingredient Spirodiclofen

Consumption rate is 6 ml per 10 liters of water. Does not have system properties. The action is only contact. Effective against all stages of females, has ovicidal properties (acts on eggs).

All plants were treated on January 08, 2014 with precautions using the immersion method. I diluted this 5 ml flask in 8 liters of filtered water. There is no smell. Does not leave stains on the leaves.

I don't advertise. I haven’t decided on the result yet - it takes time.

I warn you right away that you should not use this drug in the presence of children and animals.

We are waiting for spring. To be continued, as you yourself understand, to be continued.