How to fight aphids on peach using folk remedies

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Published: 06/09/2019

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There are plenty of insects in nature that destroy plants. One such pest is the peach aphid. Having chosen a tree, it will multiply exponentially and will not leave until it has sucked all the tasty juice from its leaves and destroyed the crop.

There are several types of aphids on peach: large peach, blood, gray, black and green. Whatever it is, the result of its activity will be disastrous. How to treat the garden in order to get rid of the invasion of the voracious insect, we will consider in this article.

• 1 Causes and signs of appearance
• 2 Which processing method to choose
• 3 Chemicals
• 4 Traditional methods
• 5 Prevention

How to treat a peach if it has aphids, how to fight it with folk remedies and medications

Aphids are an insidious pest that affects fruit orchards. Insect colonies can destroy plants in a matter of days. If aphids appear on a peach, you urgently need to save the tree; for this you need to know how to treat it. There are many folk ways to get rid of parasites, but if aphids are discovered too late, then you cannot do without the use of pesticides.

How to detect the presence of a parasite

It is necessary to identify parasites in a timely manner. To do this, you need to regularly inspect the plants. Aphids can be identified by the following characteristics:

• black spots on the inside of leaves;
• sticky layer on peach buds and flowers;
• the presence of dried, curled leaves, small spots may appear;
• insect colonies are visible to the naked eye;
• blood aphids live on the trunk and stems, sucking the sap of the tree;
• the crown begins to fade, the plant stops growing.

On a note! A peach affected by aphids loses its immunity, weakens, and the frost resistance of the plant noticeably decreases.

Methods for controlling insects on peaches

You need to start fighting small pests as early as possible. Aphids on peaches spread quickly; there are proven methods of controlling insects: carrying out agrotechnical measures, insecticides, folk remedies and recipes.

Agrotechnical method

It is recommended to begin pest control using a number of agrotechnical techniques:

1. Often, aphids move to peach plantings from other plants. Removing weeds growing near the peach eliminates the interaction of infected plants with the peach.
2. Planting green manure: spicy and fragrant herbs repel aphids from trees. Dill and mint are enemies for insidious parasites.
3. Removal of old bark and mechanical cleaning of trunks from insects.
4. Use a jet of water to clear the peach foliage of parasite colonies.

All affected foliage and removed diseased branches are burned. The tree is sprinkled with wood ash at the root. Whitening trunks with lime is a proven way to protect plants from aphids.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4_zKosGvL0c

These techniques are effective at the initial stage of the disease and are good prevention against infection of plants by aphids.

Traditional methods and recipes

The use of folk remedies is justified, they do not affect the quality of the crop, the poison does not penetrate the juices of fruit trees. You can use folk recipes at any period of plant development.

The arsenal of folk methods of combating aphids includes:

1. Garlic and onion skins. 800 grams of onion peels are infused in 10 liters of water for 24 hours and 10 chopped heads of garlic are added. The solution is filtered and the fruit plants are sprayed with a spray bottle. The effect of the folk remedy can be enhanced by adding half a piece of laundry soap to the solution.
2. A mixture of red pepper, mustard and wood ash. Add 1 glass of each component to 10 liters of water, and then spray the plants.
3. Infusion of tobacco powder based on laundry soap. One standard bar of soap is dissolved in 10 liters of water and 250 grams of tobacco powder are added. After three days the product is ready.

In the fight of gardeners against aphids on peaches, many methods were born to destroy small pests: Coca-Cola, ammonia, vinegar and boric acid - all means successfully proved themselves in the fight against aphids. The gardener decides on his own how to spray or treat peach against insidious aphids. It is recommended to try several methods to find the most effective one.

How to prevent insects from appearing?

Prevention is the best way to control aphids. To prevent the appearance of parasites on peach trees, a number of measures are carried out:

• spring and autumn bleaching of trunks with lime;
• sanitary pruning of old leaves and stems;
• digging up peach trees in a circle and sprinkling the dug surface with wood ash;
• planting fragrant herbs next to peaches;
• treatment with Bordeaux mixture during the period of kidney set;
• removal of anthills from the garden plot. These insects breed aphids and carefully protect them;
• Ladybugs feed on aphid larvae, and the presence of these insects on peach trees is an effective way to control pests.

You can protect peaches from aphids through comprehensive preventive measures and regular inspection of trees for pests.

Healthy peach trees are a gardener's dream. If plants are attacked by aphids, this is not a disaster. A disease detected in time is always treated; many methods of pest control have been invented: from folk remedies to chemicals. The main thing is to carry out preventive measures in a timely manner.

Signs of appearance

Aphids can be identified by the following symptoms:

• colonies are located on the inner parts of the leaves;
• a mucous liquid is visible on the buds, leaves, flowers;
• the tops of the sprouts begin to die;
• due to the absorption of tree sap by aphids, the leaves begin to curl and turn yellow;
• the growth and development of the plant stops;
• fruiting decreases or stops.

If a tree is attacked by a blood, green or large peach aphid, it is necessary to urgently take remedial measures. When infected, the growth and development of the plant stops, diseases appear, and crop loss occurs.

Description of the pest

Aphids are homoptera or wingless parasitic insects that settle in colonies on green plants. It feeds on the sap of young shoots and transmits plant disease viruses. If the leaves of the pepper turn black and the buds fall off, then the number of insects has reached catastrophic proportions. You can find the insect on the back of a green leaf.

Find out how to deal with slugs and caterpillars on peppers. External signs:

• oblong or drop-shaped body;
• size - from 3 to 8 mm;
• the body is soft, transparent, its color depends on the color of the plant on which the insect parasitizes;
• the head is trapezoidal, the organs of hearing and touch are located on the jointed antennae located on the forehead;
• the eyes are colored red, brown, black, insects have excellent vision;
• the legs are thin, long, have walking and jumping functions;
• oral apparatus in the form of a proboscis capable of piercing the surface of a green leaf or stem;
• the abdomen consists of 9 segments, the last of which is underdeveloped, in the shape of a tail;
• the body is covered with fluff of varying lengths.

By multiplying quickly, a pest colony can quickly infect the entire garden plot, since almost all aphids are polyphagous, i.e. they feed and live on many plants and trees. The secretions of the parasite - honeydew - contribute to the development of sooty fungus. Did you know? Ants guard aphid colonies by feeding on their sweet honeydew. For the winter, they roll insect eggs into an anthill. to save the colony from extinction.

Set of preventive measures

To protect the tree and crop from aphid attacks, it is necessary to carry out timely prevention:

1. In autumn, clear the tree trunk area of ​​leaves, weeds and plant debris.
2. Dig up the soil thoroughly.
3. In the spring before sap flow and in the fall after leaf fall, treat the tree with Bordeaux mixture.
4. A month before the onset of frost, whitewash the trunk. Before whitewashing, clean the trunk of lichen and moss with a wire brush or wooden scraper. Treat the damaged bark with iron sulfate and cover it with garden pitch.
5. Perform sanitary pruning in a timely manner.

Maliciousness

Blood aphids primarily colonize young shoots at the base of the buds, on the petioles of leaves, and often on the stalks. In places where the insect feeds, nodular thickenings are formed, consisting of tissue of a loose structure and covered with a delicate bark. The nodules grow and crack, forming deep ulcers. Putrefactive bacteria penetrate into the ulcers, leading to the death of the plant. Mature trees infected with blood aphids stop bearing fruit after two to three years and die.

We suggest you familiarize yourself with Cuttings of Petunias, or How to Propagate Beauty

The economic threshold of harmfulness occurs when 25% of the leaves are colonized.

Aphid

Aphids are sucking insects. When aphids are infested, young shoots wither, dry out, lose leaves, and the tree begins to hurt. Signs of the presence of aphids:

• accumulations of aphids (buds, bottom of leaves, young shoots);
• sticky liquid (honeydew) covering the leaves;
• curling of shoot tips;
• the formation of buds and fruits stops;
• a large number of ants (they are attracted to honeydew).

Important! If aphids are detected in a timely manner, they can be easily dealt with - remove them with your hands, wash them with soapy water, etc. If time is lost, you will have to use strong pesticides.

Green, black and striped peach aphids are a particular threat to peaches.

For peaches, green, black and striped peach aphids are a particular threat.

The insects are light green in color, small in size (1.5 mm), and form colonies. Green aphids cause especially great harm to young seedlings: they pierce the leaf with their proboscis and suck out the juices (leaves become discolored, curl, fall off, flowers crumble, seedlings may dry out).

Damaged shoots freeze in winter, mushrooms take up residence in the honeydew, and wood-boring beetles appear on weakened trees.

You need to start killing aphids with methods that are gentler for peach trees:

• agrotechnical: cutting down root shoots, weeding or mowing vegetation, stripping bark, removing aphids manually or with a strong stream of water;
• biological: the use of natural enemies of aphids ( ladybugs, wasps, hoverflies, etc.
  ).
  Planting nettles, onions, herbs, etc. In addition, it is effective ( in the initial stages
  ) to use decoctions and infusions of dandelions (
  400 g of leaves, leave for 2 hours in 10 liters of warm water
  ), garlic (
  300 g of chopped garlic in 10 liters of water, leave for 20 minutes
  ), onion peel (
  150 g of peel per 10 liters of water, leave for 5 days, add 50 g of laundry soap
  ), etc.;
• chemical: spraying with pesticides. In autumn - Bordeaux mixture (2%), in spring, before or after flowering, Bordeaux mixture (1%), a mixture of thiazole and fostiol, "Dipterex". With the appearance of fruits - “Bi-58 New”, “Aktofit” ( 8 ml per liter of water
  ), etc. In the spring, you can destroy aphids after winter using DNOC (
  every two years
  ).

Striped aphids on peach suck the juice from the bark and shoots (the bark becomes sticky), the leaves on the upper shoots curl, turn red and fall off.

The eggs of peach aphids are initially colored green or reddish, and after some time they begin to darken and turn black just before the harmful larvae emerge. Usually the pest overwinters in the egg stage at the very base of peach buds.

The revival of the founders is observed in March, sometimes it can be observed in April or February - it all depends on the temperature regime. First, the pests begin feeding on the buds, gradually moving to the budding leaves and flowers. The average duration of development of founders is from seventeen to twenty-eight days. In April, over the course of ten to twenty days, they revive from twenty to sixty larvae. In total, two or three generations of wingless females can develop on a peach. Starting from the second generation, winged ones also appear, the number of which increases noticeably in subsequent generations.

Aphids first colonize weeds, and a little later they move to herbaceous crops. And there are up to four hundred names of secondary host plants for this pest. Males develop primarily on such plants, and subsequently fly to females, who, after mating, lay overwintering eggs - from five to ten pieces. Aphids can reproduce rather unevenly throughout the year in the south, as well as on indoor plants, in greenhouses and greenhouses.

How to fight

In small gardens, pests can also be destroyed mechanically - in places where uninvited guests gather, branches and trunks are wiped with a rag. You can also use biological insecticides such as infusions of bittersweet, tobacco, tomato and henbane, but they will be effective only when the number of pests is not very large.

Overwintering eggs of the voracious peach aphid are often destroyed by spraying in early spring with mineral oil preparations or appropriate substitutes. 60% nitrophen paste will also serve well in this case.

Characteristics

Aphids are small insects, no more than 3 millimeters long, that attack plants together, forming colonies. There are several types of aphids on peach trees:

• black;
• green;
• blood;
• white;
• big peach.

The most dangerous species is the blood aphid.
Insects not only eat leaves, buds and flowers of plants, but also suck out nutritious juices from tree trunks. The plant loses strength and energy, and the future harvest is at risk. The large peach aphid, like other species, begins its spread from the inside of the leaves, then spreads to the branches and trunk of peach crops. If there are a large number of colonies, the crown of the tree begins to dry out and wither, and the top of the plant may die.

Methods

Medicines

How to get rid of aphids using folk remedies is a question many gardeners ask. Cheap products that every family has in stock can be used to kill various types of aphids.

These include:

1. Iodine - alcohol solution at a concentration of 5%.
2. Potassium permanganate.
3. Ammonia (ammonia solution).
4. Alcohol.

Any of these products very effectively destroys insects; it is enough to dilute it in water and generously spray the affected plants.

The low consumption of the drug and the cheap cost allow any gardener to use the drugs, even for treating a large area without serious economic damage.

Next, read about how to defeat aphids using folk remedies, as well as destruction, disposal, recipes and a solution for aphids.

Culinary products

Another group of effective substances that we constantly use without thinking about their properties. And some folk methods and remedies can destroy pests or scare them away from beneficial plants.

So why not use these qualities to save your harvest?

The following products are suitable for this:

1. Coca-Cola - preferably of American origin. Only it contains the necessary aggressive substances that pests do not like. Some scientists suggest that phosphoric acid, of which the drink contains a very significant amount, works. There is no need to dilute it, just put a spray bottle on the bottle and spray the affected bushes.
2. Mustard. Firstly, it repels aphids with its smell, and secondly, it spoils the taste of plants. Pests begin to move in search of more attractive food.
3. Vinegar. It works as a repellent, since it can kill only in high concentrations, not only insects, but also plants.
4. Any vegetable oil. It envelops insects, interfering with the respiratory process, and in addition, makes it difficult to access food by covering the surfaces of leaves and stems with a film. Used in the form of a water-oil suspension.
5. Cream. They are mixed with essential oils (cedar, tea tree, lavender) for maximum effectiveness.

You will find the dilution proportions and the correct use of the resulting solutions in the article “The best traditional methods for aphids - part 1 and part 2” (see links to articles above).

Herbal infusions

Many plants are also great helpers in pest control.

Have you noticed that aphids never attack plantings of onions, garlic, or tomatoes? She just can't stand their smell.

You can take advantage of this property and use aqueous infusions of these plants to repel aphids from others that are attractive to the pest.

1. Cultivated plants: tomatoes, hot peppers, all types of onions, garlic, potato tops.
2. Greens: coriander, fennel, mint, basil.
3. Flowers: marigold, lavender, Dalmatian chamomile, pharmaceutical chamomile.
4. Weeds: dandelion, yarrow, celandine, horse sorrel, datura, henbane.
5. Trees: alder, pine.

When using infusions, keep in mind that you need to prepare the product a day or two before use. Fighting aphids with folk remedies will give excellent results. In addition, you should not exceed the proportions specified precisely and in detail in our article “The best folk remedies for aphids, part 1 and part 2” (see links to articles above). If you increase the concentration, you can burn the above-ground parts of the plants.

Herbal decoctions

To prepare them, they use quite aggressive plants that have fungicidal, repellent or insecticidal properties.

These include:

• tansy;
• rhubarb;
• tobacco;
• hot peppers;
• rose hip;
• sagebrush.

Solutions can be consumed only after they have cooled to a cool temperature, spraying the affected plants and the soil around them.

How to get rid of aphids on trees and bushes: fighting ants

Probably every gardener or gardener has observed how ants scurry around a group of aphids, and in fairly large quantities. But very few people know that ants do not eat these pests, but quite the contrary, they protect them from other insects that are not averse to feasting on them. What is the reason for this partnership? And is there a connection between these insects?

Surprisingly, there is a connection. And the most unexpected one! The fact is that the ants themselves bring aphids to young plants. For what? It's simple: as mentioned earlier, aphids secrete a sweet sticky liquid from their bodies - honeydew. And the ants feed on this honeydew. That is, ants protect aphids from other insects, and they, in turn, thank them with nutritious and tasty food.

But that's not all. There are types of aphids that wait for their patrons, that is, ants, and only when they tickle them with their antennae do they give up honeydew. It turns out that the ants “milk” their insects. In return, they provide them with luxurious pastures, protect them from enemies, build “roofs” and “houses” so that birds and other ants do not find aphids, fight off their feeders from other insects... All summer, ants protect their aphids, and for the winter they take them to anthills, keeping an eye on them. not only for adults, but also for their eggs. The symbiosis of aphids and ants is so strong that when the latter change their habitat, they take their pets with them.

codling moths

Codling moths pose a serious threat to young shoots and to the harvest (if the fight against these pests of peach is late, then all the fruits may die). Most often, peaches fall prey to the oriental and plum moths.

Eastern moth

The damage caused by the oriental codling moth is not limited to fruit damage. Caterpillars devour young shoots and carry fungi (including an ascomycete that causes moniliosis). The first signs of pests are:

• gum on young shoots, longitudinal cracks, their lethargy and death;
• wormholes on the surface of peaches.

Did you know? The Eastern codling moth is a lepidopteran butterfly (15 mm in length). The female is larger than the male. The wings are gray-brown, the body is dark. The homeland of butterflies is the countries of East Asia. The flight of butterflies lasts a month during the peach blossom period. More active in the evenings and early mornings. Eggs (from 100 to 200) are laid on the tips of shoots, buds (females of the first generation), sepals and stalks (females of the second generation). One generation lives from 24 to 40 days. Up to 4 generations can pass during a season, overlapping one another. They wait out the winter in cracks in the bark, under fallen leaves.

When fighting the eastern codling moth, agrotechnical, natural and chemical means are used:

agrotechnical measures are preventive and health-improving measures - in the evening, dead bark is cleared off, dead leaves and carrion are removed, damaged shoots are pruned, the earth around the tree is dug up (in spring and summer - loosened) in the fall. They also use traps - glue traps with pheromones for males (the effectiveness of this technique is low), belts on the trunk made of fabric impregnated (one percent chlorophos);

natural (biological) - using hymenoptera trichogramma (equiped ichneumonids that parasitize on codling moth eggs) - during the period of egg laying by codling moths;

chemicals are used against each generation (including after harvest). A strong remedy against the oriental codling moth is benzophosphate (per 10 l - 60 g) - sprayed three times (the interval between treatments is 15 days) after flowering. They also use “Chlorofos” (per 10 l – 20 g), 25% “Rovikurt” (per 10 l – 10 g), 10% “Karbofos” (per 10 l – 60 g), etc. The usual consumption is up to 10 l mixture for an adult tree and 2 liters for a young tree.

Important! During the flowering period of peach trees, treating with insecticides is strictly prohibited. Other crops in the garden should be covered with film during the period when peaches are treated with insecticides.

Plum moth

The larvae of the plum moth infect peach fruits: they eat away the pulp and core of the stone, disrupt the vessels from the petiole (the flow of juices stops), the fruit begins to wither, ripen prematurely and falls.

The first sign of the presence of the plum moth is the massive falling off of green peaches with wormholes, as well as the appearance of lumps of cobwebs on the fruits and leaves.

Did you know? The plum moth resembles the eastern moth in appearance and is larger in size (up to 2 cm). The flight of butterflies occurs at the end of May - beginning of June. The butterfly lives from 4 to 15 days and manages to sow up to 50 eggs on fruit. The caterpillars independently gnaw through the skin of the peach and penetrate into the fruit. During the season, two generations of moths pass through. Caterpillars overwinter in dense cocoons made of cobwebs in crevices of the bark, in the soil under the tree.

Protection of peach from these pests by agrotechnical and natural means is similar to that applied to the eastern codling moth. With a small number of pests, it is advisable to use the biological product “Bitoxibacillin” against each generation (40-80 g per 10 liters).

The use of chemicals has its own specifics:

• treatment is carried out until the caterpillars appear (when lumps of cobwebs appear) - “Intavir” (one tablet per 10 l);
• against second generation caterpillars - “Fufanon”, “Sumition”, “Novaktion” (but not less than 30 days before harvest).

Apple flower beetle

Damages apple trees, less often pears. The beetle is 3.5 mm long, elongated oval, brownish-brown in color. At the top of the wings there is a transverse oblique stripe of white color. The rostrum is long, slightly curved. The larva is dirty white, wrinkled, legless, with a small dark brown head.

The flower beetle develops in one generation. The beetles overwinter under fallen leaves, in the soil, and in crevices of the bark. Beetles emerge from their wintering grounds at the end of March - beginning of April, long before the buds open. They crawl into trees (and at air temperatures above +10 degrees they begin to fly from tree to tree), feed on the buds, gnawing deep holes in them. Juice flows profusely from damaged kidneys. During budding, females lay eggs one at a time inside the unopened buds. The larvae feed on the stamens and pistils in the bud. Damaged buds do not bloom, turn brown and dry out. The larva pupates in the damaged bud. There, 10-20 days after the petals of the apple tree fall off, beetles are born from the pupae. Young beetles leave the buds and intensively feed on the leaves. On hot days, beetles hide in shaded places, and in the fall they go to wintering areas.

Control measures. Shaking off beetles from trees onto a fabric bedding or film and destroying them, which is carried out during the period when beetles leave their wintering grounds. It is best to do it in the morning, before the beetles begin to fly. On low-growing and young trees, manual collection and burning of damaged buds with the larvae or pupae of the flower beetle located in them is used.

Spraying trees with karbofos or kinmiks during bud break to prevent eggs from hatching.

Prevention

To prevent the appearance of aphids, preventive work begins with proper preparation of the soil for growing seedlings. The soil must be disinfected by heating or freezing. Also for this purpose, pouring with a concentrated solution of potassium permanganate or garlic infusion is used. Additionally, seedling containers and seed material are disinfected.

When growing pepper seedlings indoors, do not leave flower bouquets in the same room with the seedlings. They can be a source of aphid spread. During the development process, seedlings must be fed with mineral fertilizers. Weakened seedlings are sprayed with the drug "Epin" to strengthen the immune system.

Types of fertilizers for pepper seedlings: how and what to properly feed peppers For peppers to develop well, they need light, water and oxygen. All these points are important for seedlings, and for them...

After planting in a permanent place, make sure that there are no anthills in the vicinity of the pepper beds. If they are found, they are dug up and the area is covered with hot wood ash. The anthill itself is taken further into the forest. To kill ants, sweet, poisonous baits are laid out on their paths.

Tip! After planting the pepper bushes in a permanent place, plants with a pungent odor are planted along the edges of the bed, which repel aphids. For this purpose, marigolds, cloves, onions, dill, and coriander are used.

To destroy aphids, insects that feed on them are attracted to the site. These include ladybugs and lacewings. Birds are also used to control the pest.

To get rid of aphids on pepper bushes, different methods are used. At the same time, the degree of effectiveness and toxicity of the drugs used is taken into account. Chemical insecticides are used only in extreme cases: when a large number of plants are infected or when other methods are ineffective. At the stage of growing seedlings or during the fruiting period, aphids are destroyed using folk remedies or bioinsecticides.

Mechanical method

There are a huge number of mechanical methods of treatment, but the most effective are:

1. Use of water.

With this method, insects are washed off with water. First you need to clear the circle of the trunk from weeds or grass, and clean the trunk and branches. Afterwards, you need to wash off the insects with a powerful jet, directing them to the leaves.

2. Planting plants with a specific smell next to the peach.

All types of aphids do not respond well to strong odors, so plants with a strong odor will help in getting rid of aphids. This method is also recommended for prevention. Aromatic plants include mint, calendula and other plants. You can also plant dill, which will attract ladybugs, and they, in turn, will get rid of aphids on the tree, as well as get rid of other insects. Leaves that are already affected should be cut off and burned.

A belt of resin will also help protect the plant from insects. To do this, 40 days before the cold weather sets in, the trunk must be sprinkled with ash and poured with hot water. The ash that has been dissolved begins to penetrate the bark and root system of the tree, after oxidation it repels insects. Boiling water also kills insects. If the number of aphids is huge, then the mechanical method may not help, then you need to try a method using chemicals. But before using this method, you need to understand that during the harvest period, under no circumstances should you carry out processing.

How to deal with aphids on peaches

The obvious presence of a problem indicates that something needs to be done about it, and quickly. If colonies of aphids are noticed on a peach, many do not know what to spray with. But there are effective ways.

Agrotechnical methods of control

This option for combating parasites is based on preventing both their appearance and mass reproduction. However, he will not be able to exterminate aphids instantly, since all actions are aimed at worsening the living conditions of the pest. Using such methods, you can reduce the number of peach pests and protect plants from appearing next season.

How to deal with strawberry mites on strawberries

Most often, to combat aphids on peaches, gardeners cut out root shoots, where offspring can overwinter, or in which eggs are often laid. This also eliminates one of their food sources in the summer, which creates unfavorable conditions for the pest.

You can also thoroughly loosen the soil and plant plants with a specific smell nearby, since aphids cannot tolerate strong aromas. All these actions will gradually help rid the fruit crop of pests.

Chemicals

It should be used when the buds are still dormant, or during the flowering period, but before harvesting. Most often, insecticides are chosen that penetrate the tree bark and kill pests. Soon insects begin to die from their effects.

The following preparations are popular among gardeners:

• Topsin;
• Aktar;
• Karbofos;
• Topaz.

Correct treatment with these compounds will allow you to see the results of use within 5 days. But we should not forget that chemistry is, in any case, not a natural product. You should follow the instructions, otherwise you can only harm the plant.

Folk recipes

Most often, gardeners prefer not to harm plants, using gentle methods that are safe at any stage of the growing season. Basic recommendations on how to fight and use folk remedies to treat a peach if aphids were found on it:

1. Infusion of onions and laundry soap. The husk and water are mixed 1 to 4 and boiled for 35 minutes. Then the solution is infused for 4-8 days in a warm, dark place. Then rub soap into it, stirring thoroughly. The resulting product is sprayed onto the leaves of the tree.
2. Orange infusion can be used on any part of the plant, including its fruits. For it you need to infuse citrus peels in 1 liter of water for 72 hours. Afterwards, the solution is filtered and the infected areas are sprayed with it.
3. Garlic infusion - 500 g of vegetable and 1.5 liters of warm water. Let it sit for a day, and then rub laundry soap into the solution. Before use, dilute with 6 liters of clean water.

On a note! All these recipes are absolutely environmentally friendly and will not harm the peach tree or its fruits.

Chemicals

When biological and mechanical methods do not help, the time comes for radical measures, that is, you need to start treating trees with chemicals.

It is important to take into account that they will remain on the plants for a long time, usually for twenty days, so it is strictly forbidden to process the peach during fruiting, when it is time to harvest.

Peach plantings should be sprayed in the spring, when there are no leaves, or during the period when the first ovaries appear. Among the effective means, experienced gardeners identify the following:

• Aktara;
• DNOC;
• Confidor;
• Karbofos.

Where and why does it appear?

Aphids overwinter in the ground or in last year's autumn leaves. If aphids damaged peppers last gardening season, you should not plant them in the same place this year, as there is a high risk of infecting new plants. Insect eggs overwinter in leaves or under tree bark.

As the weather gets warmer, females are born first, which will then give rise to a whole colony of aphids. Ants play a major role in the appearance of aphids. Since not all aphids have wings to move, ants help them. In return they receive food - honeydew.

Important! This symbiosis allows some to be constantly full, while others expand their habitat.

The main reason for the appearance of aphids on pepper seedlings is that young shoots are very attractive to pests, they are juicy and rich in nutritional components.

How to treat aphids on trees, effective preparations?

The most effective way to kill aphids is to use chemicals. They have different operating principles, but they are aimed at the complete destruction of pests on shrubs and trees. Insecticides are used in the preparation of solutions for spraying trees.

There are 3 main groups of drugs against aphids:

• System. Penetrate into plant tissue, making them poisonous to aphids;
• Contact. They kill an insect by falling on it;
• Intestinal. Poisons aphids.

In the following table you will find information about the most effective drugs against aphids and methods for preparing the working solution.

Table. Effective drugs against aphids

Means	Preparation	Treatment frequency
Biotlin	2 sachets (3 ml) per bucket of water	Apply once per season
Aktara	2 grams of powder per 10 liters of water	Apply no more than 2 times only before flowering begins. Treatment interval – 1 week
Fury	1 ml per bucket of water	One spray per year, no later than 30 days before harvest
Arrivo	Ampoule 10 l	2 treatments 2 weeks apart
Karbofos	5 grams of emulsion are diluted in 1 liter of water	1 time per season
Spark	0.5 tablets per 5 liters of water	Use until the buds swell
Confidor	1 gram of powder per 5 liters of water	No more than 4 treatments at intervals of 2-3 weeks
BI-58 New	Ampoule for 5 liters of water	Maximum 2 treatments
Green soap	Mix 400 ml in 10 liters of water	As needed
Fufanon	4 ml per 3 liters of water	No more than 3 treatments with an interval of at least 7 days
Aktellik	10 ml per 10 liters of water	No more than 2 sprays per year
Fitoverm	25 ml per 3 liters of liquid	As needed. Finish processing at least 5 days before harvesting the fruits
Aktofit	80 ml per 10 liters of liquid	No more than 2 sprays
Arrivo	3 ml for 2 buckets	Process no later than 3 weeks before harvest
Tanker	3 ml per bucket	One treatment
Kinmiks	Half an ampoule for 5 liters of water	No more than 2 treatments
Kalash	10 ml per 20 liters of water	The treatment interval is 21 days. Spray no more than 2 times per season
Commander	5 ml per bucket	No more than 3 sprays with an interval of 2 weeks
Arrow	25 grams of powder per five-liter sprayer	Biological agent. Apply at intervals of 10-15 days before fruiting.
Alatar	10 ml for 2 buckets of water	One-time processing
Cortlis	4-5 ml per 1 bucket of water	The consumption of the working solution is half a bucket per tree. One treatment per year

Aphids on peach: how to treat, how to fight with folk remedies and medications

Like other crops, peach is often attacked by pests. Peach aphids are considered the most dangerous and common problem. Bugs on peach appear with the beginning of warm weather, in May, and do not leave the plant until the end of the growing season.

Despite its small size, the insect causes irreparable harm: it spoils the flowering of buds, destroys young shoots and foliage, and damages fruit ovary. As a result, even in a fertile year you should not expect a harvest. Read more about how to fight aphids on peach, effective drugs and folk methods used by experienced gardeners.

Causes and signs of appearance

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Aphids are a pest that is difficult to detect at the time of initial infection. Usually gardeners grab their heads when there are so many aphids that the crown of the tree dies before our eyes.

Particularly dangerous for peach is the blood aphid, which not only infects the leaves, but also sucks the juice from the branches of the tree and its trunk. Such aphids are clearly visible. Most often it appears in the fall after a hot summer. The leaves turn red, then curl into tubes, wrinkle and fall off.

In the photos and videos that gardeners post on the Internet, colonies of such aphids and the consequences of their reproduction are clearly visible.

Black and green aphids settle on peach in early spring; by summer they multiply and move to other crops. How can you tell if this pest has settled on a tree? It is recommended to carefully examine all young shoots of the plant, as well as its stem. The following symptoms indicate that a peach is infested with aphids:

1. The leaves of the tree begin to turn yellow, curl into tubes and fall off.
2. The plant becomes sticky and shiny. Aphids secrete a secretion called honeydew and leave it on the leaves and buds.
3. The leaf tubes inside are filled with green and gray translucent insects.

The consequences of an aphid attack on a tree become tragic. The peach gets sick, its immunity decreases, it does not tolerate frost well, there may be no fruit at all or the harvest will be small. Therefore, aphids must be fought. And you should start doing this without waiting for big defeats.

How to fight aphids on peach using folk and store-bought remedies

Peach aphids are the most common crop pest. The insect infects the tree in early May and causes damage throughout the entire growing season. The damage is colossal - the buds do not open, the fruits fall off, the young shoots die, the leaves curl and turn yellow. Experienced gardeners tell us how to deal with aphids on peach.

Signs of pests

The peach aphid is a small insect with a body length of no more than 3 mm. The most common species is the large peach, green, black blood aphid. Pests form entire colonies, producing up to 20 generations over the entire warm season. By the end of summer, winged individuals appear - males and females, capable of migrating to other crops. Photos of pests are presented below.

Which processing method to choose

There are three ways to destroy a harmful insect:

• chemical;
• biological;
• using traditional methods.

Most gardeners, having discovered colonies of pests on peach trees, grab store-bought chemicals. However, their more experienced colleagues advise starting the fight against aphids with gentle measures. These include biological and mechanical. What does it mean?

1. First, you need to remove all fallen leaves and weeds near the tree.
2. Remove, by stripping, the old bark on the trunk itself and branches.
3. Use a garden hose to wash off all pests from the peach.
4. Remove severely damaged foliage by cutting it from the branches, collect it, take it outside the dacha area and burn it.

As a preventive measure, you can plant herbs around peach trees that aphids cannot tolerate: lavender, marigolds, chamomile, dill, mint and yarrow.

Another remedy is to fight the pest with the help of its natural enemies. For example, aphids are loved by birds (sparrows, titmice, wrens, linnets) and beneficial insects such as flower flies, lacewings and ladybugs.

After harvesting, that is, in the fall, the ground around the peach should be treated with ash. If such methods are not very effective, you need to turn to other methods.

Aphids on peach: control measures

Every gardener wants to see his garden healthy and fruitful. But insect pests often attack fruit crops. Aphids on peach are a frequently occurring pest that, without timely treatment, quickly spread to neighboring fruit crops.

Spraying schedule

The quality of fruiting of peach plantations is affected by care. The spraying schedule involves several applications per season.

Spring prevention

In the spring, several sprayings will be required. The tree is treated for the first time before buds open. This is necessary to destroy aphids overwintering under the bark of the trunk and branches. Spraying is carried out using fungicides from copper sulfate and Bordeaux mixture. A common option is to use diesel fuel - it forms an oily film on the peach that blocks oxygen for the aphids.

It is important to spray the tree to avoid curling. The infection begins to spread as the tree begins to grow and develop. Fungal pathogens live in the bud scales, which is why the leaves, as they grow, acquire a reddish tint, begin to curl, and fall off.

It is necessary to combat pathology before the appearance of foliage, before the formation of buds. The trunk, branches, and green cone are subject to spraying. Treatment is carried out with drugs like Delana or Horus.

Next, you need to spray the pink buds - this will strengthen the plant’s immune system, prevent powdery mildew, scab, and moniliosis. The procedure is carried out using Bordeaux mixture or Topsin.

The final spring sprinkling of the peach is carried out after it has bloomed. The procedure is carried out with ordinary urea - it will destroy aphids and feed the tree.

Summer work

Summer sprinkling is carried out using urea - the most popular modern fungicide. The effect of the drug is similar to acid - it burns all harmful insects.

When diluting the solution, you must strictly adhere to the dosage so as not to burn the peach.

Young trees are sprinkled carefully; it is recommended to use traditional methods rather than chemicals. Sprinkling the peach with garlic, tobacco, onion, and lavender tincture will be effective.

Autumn time

The purpose of autumn sprinkling is to destroy the causative fungus. In the autumn, with high air humidity, active proliferation of fungi occurs. The treatment is carried out using copper sulfate and Bordeaux mixture.