How to treat an apple tree against aphids during and after flowering;

Aphids are small insects that parasitize plants and cause them great harm. Feeding on plant sap, aphids damage young shoots, buds, flowers, leaves, and spread diseases that can destroy the crop.

Aphids are quite easy to spot: they create huge colonies on the plant. The reverse side of the leaves and the tops of the shoots are densely covered with small insects of black, green, and gray colors. These pests reproduce very quickly: just one female in a month can produce three generations with a total number of about hundreds of thousands of individuals. Some generations of aphids, under certain conditions, are born winged: such individuals are able to travel long distances, colonizing other plants.

During their life, aphids secrete a sweet liquid (honeydew), which ants really like. Therefore, they protect aphids and contribute to their spread. The sweet secretions of aphids quickly clog the stomata of plants and contaminate the leaves. Subsequently, the affected shoots become covered with dust, dirt, and sooty fungus, which impedes the process of photosynthesis and further inhibits the plant. There are hundreds of species of aphids, and many of them cause serious damage to fruit crops.

• All about aphids: types, photos, life cycle and methods of control

  Tiny aphids can cause serious damage to plants. Let's find out more about this pest!

Periods and timing of summer treatments

Protective treatment of apple trees against diseases and pests in summer may be required in the following periods:

• immediately after flowering, during the fall of the ovaries,
• 15-20 days after flowering,
• 2 weeks after the previous treatment.

Now let's take a closer look.

Immediately after flowering

At this time, another treatment against diseases is advisable, first of all for scab, and secondly for moniliosis.

Of the chemical fungicides, you can use Skor, and of the biological ones, Fitosporin-M, Alirin-B.

In addition, to increase the natural resistance of trees to scab, it is useful to spray them with a solution of immunocytophyte or the homeopathic remedy Healthy Garden.

At temperatures above 16 degrees, you can take Lepidocide, but if it is warmer than 18 degrees, then Fitoverm will work well.

To reduce the number of treatments, in many cases it is desirable to spray with tank mixtures. These are working fluids that combine an insecticide with a fungicide and an adhesive (if necessary). For example, mix Fitoverm with Alirin-B.

If there are a significant number of apple moth caterpillars, it is advisable to carry out insecticidal treatment. Both chemical and biological preparations can be used as an insecticide (a product against insects).

Important! Treatment of apple trees against pests in the summer should be carried out not only with the help of drugs, since many of them can be harmful to beneficial insects and the gardeners themselves, therefore, for environmental reasons, it is advisable to catch (or collect) pests using belts.

Time for shedding excess ovary

• Approximately in the first ten days of June, when the codling moth caterpillars hatch, apple trees should be sprayed against pests in the summer. Both chemical and biological agents can be used as a protective agent.
• 15-20 days after the end of flowering, protective sprays are recommended against the codling moth, other gnawing and sucking pests, as well as against scab.
• 18-25 days after flowering. If there is carrion with codling moth caterpillars, it is recommended to use catching belts.

Prevention measures

After aphids are found on a fruit tree, the question arises: “How to spray an apple tree against pests?” The use of chemicals is not always beneficial for the tree and the crop. In order to prevent the death of the tree and fruits, it is necessary to take preventive measures that minimize the risks of pests in the garden:

• one of the important rules is to remove weeds under trees in time so that aphids do not grow there;
• if root shoots appear, get rid of them in time;
• do not plant cabbage and flowers next to fruit trees;
• fertilize the soil, feed trees so that they grow healthy;
• Spray the branches on time;
• if an anthill is found next to a tree, it must be destroyed;
• the main enemy of aphids is ladybugs, you need to create a favorable environment for them, plant spicy herbs: cumin, parsley, dill, etc.

To avoid the question of how to treat apple trees against aphids in the summer, it is better to take preventive measures and prevent the pest from appearing in your garden. Remember: this insect is quite dangerous for the crop and the tree as a whole.

Having fruit trees on their property, many gardeners ask what to do if aphids appear on an apple tree? How to deal with it and not lose the harvest? The answer is obvious: you need to spray the trees on time, using traditional recipes or chemicals.

Who do you have to deal with?

Aphids are the most common pest of vegetable gardens and orchards. The apple aphid is a small bug with a body length of no more than 7 mm. The color varies, since several species of similar insects of the same species live on a tree.

There are no significant differences in the methods of exterminating different types of aphids; control measures are taken immediately when a colony of gray, black, light green, green, or brown insects is detected. They settle on the reverse side of the leaf, on stems and young shoots.

• The most common species is the red gall aphid on apple trees. Microscopic insects with a yellow-green body no more than 3 mm. This also includes the gall aphid.
• Gray aphids are ubiquitous. The body is covered with small dark gray scales with an ashen coating. The colony contains migratory and non-migratory individuals. The latter constantly live on the occupied tree, reproducing up to 20 offspring during the entire growing season of the apple tree. Migrating ones are winged individuals, they fly to sorrel, umbrella crops, various vegetables in the garden, and continue to parasitize there. By autumn they move to the apple tree again, laying eggs for wintering.
• Green aphids constantly parasitize apple, pear, quince, and plum trees; they do not migrate to other plants or shrubs. The development cycle and way of life are similar to other species.

Aphids on an apple tree

On a note!

Aphids on apple trees go through a short life cycle, but manage to produce huge offspring. The female lays up to 40 eggs at one time. From May to June, only females are born. Individuals do not need fertilization to reproduce offspring.

Closer to September, a generation of winged aphids appears. After the mating season, young females scatter to different trees. Eggs are laid on apple trees under the bark closer to the buds. In early spring, larvae emerge from them and immediately begin to wreck.

Preventative treatments

To prevent possible apple tree diseases and pest attacks, it is recommended to carry out preventive treatments in a timely manner.

Spring treatments

This is the most important stage in the fight against diseases and pests. It is carried out in early spring before the buds swell by spraying the crowns of trees and the soil of tree trunks with potent preparations of universal action:

• DNOC (can be used once every three years);
• Nitrafen (once a year);
• 3% solution of copper sulfate or Bordeaux mixture.

Photo gallery: preparations for eradication treatments of apple trees

Treating an apple tree trunk if the bark is damaged

Sometimes it happens that the bark of an apple tree gets damaged

This can occur as a result of frost damage, damage by rodents, bark beetles, careless handling of tools, etc.

In such cases, you should clean the wound with a sharp knife to healthy tissue and disinfect it with a 1% solution of copper sulfate (hydrogen peroxide or alcohol can be used). After this, let it dry and cover with a layer of garden varnish.

Some gardeners use a mixture of cow dung and red clay in equal parts to protect wounds. This mixture is diluted with water to the consistency of thick sour cream and coated with it on the wound. In case of large area damage, you can additionally wrap the branch or trunk with cotton cloth.

How to treat a cut apple tree

When pruning, all cuts of branches with a diameter of more than 10 mm should be cleaned with a sharp knife and covered with a layer of garden varnish.

Branch cuts with a diameter of more than 10 mm should be cleaned with a sharp knife and covered with a layer of garden varnish.

You can also use special acrylic-based garden paints to protect saw cuts.

Garden paints are used to whitewash trunks and protect saw cuts.

How to remove moss and lichen from an apple tree

Mosses or lichens often appear on the bark of apple trees growing in shady, damp places with a dense crown. Without going into details of their biology, we note that mosses and lichens are united by the absence of roots. They cannot be classified as diseases or pests of the apple tree. Mosses and lichens do not feed on the bark, leaves, or fruits of the apple tree. The bark of a tree is only a platform for them to live - they receive food from dust, rainwater and as a result of photosynthesis. Therefore, harm from them is caused to the apple tree only as a result of creating wet areas on the bark where pests and fungi can live. In order to get rid of mosses and lichens you need:

1. Spread film, fabric, paper, etc. under the tree.
2. Carefully scrape off all growths from the surface of the branches and trunk. To do this, use a spatula, knife (blunt side), steel brush, etc. This must be done carefully, without damaging the bark.
3. After completing this stage, the resulting waste is removed and burned.
4. Spray the crown, trunk and branches with a 2% solution of iron sulfate.
5. Whiten the trunk and thick branches with a solution of slaked lime with the addition of 3% copper sulfate.

These works should be carried out either in the fall or early spring before the buds open.

general characteristics

Aphids (Aphidoidea) are a member of the superfamily of insects belonging to the order Hemiptera. These parasites gather in large colonies and settle on plants, sucking out their vital juices. In addition, they are carriers of plant viruses.

Description of the insect

Depending on the type of aphid, it can have a different appearance and shape: oblong, ovoid, hemispherical, elliptical or teardrop-shaped.
The size of the insect varies from 0.3 to 0.8 mm. The body has a soft and transparent cover, its surface is covered with down of varying density and length, as well as individual growths and tubercles. The color of the aphid corresponds to the plant on which it is currently parasitizing; in the case of an apple tree, it is green. The head looks like a trapezoid; in its upper part there are antennae, and on them are the organs responsible for hearing and touch. Aphids have good eyesight and their eyes can be black, brown or red.

The pest's mouthparts are the proboscis; with its help, the aphid pierces the plant tissue and sucks out the juices. This organ in individuals can be sharp and long or blunt and short. There are winged and wingless aphids; the presence of wings determines the structural features of its thorax.

The insect has long thin legs that allow it not only to walk, but also to jump. The abdomen includes 9 segments, the first seven contain spiracles, and the rest contain juice tubes responsible for performing excretory and secretory functions. The last segment is underdeveloped and resembles a tail made of bristles.

Life cycle

In the fall, the insect produces a brood of eggs, from which the larvae hatch during the budding period in the spring.
The duration of this process is approximately 6-7 days. The larvae first feed on green buds, then begin to eat shoots and leaves. Shortly before the start of flowering, adult insects appear: the progenitor produces 80-120 larvae in 20-30 days, of which wingless ones develop in 8-12 days.

Around the end of May or beginning of June, you can observe the appearance of winged females flying over the nearest apple trees and thereby settling a new generation in the garden. Females place their offspring on the underside of leaf blades, on petioles and on the tips of shoots. Sometimes colonies parasitize fruits.

The maximum number of aphids is mid-July.

In autumn (September - October) males and females begin to lay eggs. An individual's clutch contains from 1 to 5 eggs, which it attaches to young shoots using a sticky substance. At first the eggs are light green in color and then become black and shiny.

Distribution area

Apple aphids are found in almost all European countries, North Africa, the Caucasus, Central Asia, North America, Pakistan and eastern India. Insect activity in gardens can be observed from early spring to late autumn.

Signs of aphids

Apple aphids usually begin to attack trees from the tops, which makes their presence difficult to immediately detect. It is easier to recognize the parasite after it has entered the center of the apple tree.

Colonies of ants and the presence of a sticky substance on the back of the leaf blades are sure signs of aphid damage to the tree.

In addition, the following factors indicate the problem:

• buds that do not open during flowering;
• deformation of the upper parts of young shoots (merging and twisting);
• the formation of swelling and red spots on the leaf blades;
• folding the leaves, followed by blackening and drying.

The spread of apple aphids is accompanied by the appearance of sooty fungus, since the honeydew secreted by the parasites promotes the development of this organism.

Damage caused

Ignoring the problem associated with aphid infestation will lead to the following consequences for garden crops:

• growth slowdown;
• reduction in fruit quality;
• late formation and maturation of fruit buds;
• decreased immunity, which is an unfavorable factor when preparing for winter;
• susceptibility to damage by other types of parasites;
• greater vulnerability to infectious agents;
• excessive contamination of the plates due to the attraction of dust by the sticky substance.

When a colony is colonized en masse, aphids can infect a significant part of the orchard in a short time, which will negatively affect the condition of the apple trees and the harvest.

Prevention

In order to destroy most pests, early spring spraying of the apple tree is carried out every year.

It can be carried out using both chemical and folk remedies. In the first case, preventive spraying with special preparations is carried out 2 times:

• until the first buds dissolve;
• during the period when the first green leaves appear on the tree.

The most commonly used means are:

• Aktara;
• Fufanon;
• Karbofos;
• Confidor.

Copper sulfate, so beloved by domestic gardeners, is less effective, but it can cope with many other diseases.

Copper sulfate is good as a preventative.

The last treatment with chemicals is carried out in the fall, shortly before the first frost. This is done to destroy pests preparing to spend the winter on the apple tree.

The following traditional methods are used:

1. Hunting belts. Pieces of material tied around the trunk and coated with garden glue. Their task is to stop black ants spreading aphids throughout the tree.
2. Regular loosening and weeding to get rid of pests living on weeds.
3. Control of nitrogen content in the soil.
4. Sowing the trunk circle of the apple tree with fragrant herbs: mint, lemon balm, dill, garlic, marigolds or lavender. Aphids cannot tolerate the smell of these plants.
5. Destruction of an anthill. These insects are the main carriers of aphids.

How to prevent infestation of neighboring trees

To protect your garden from the spread of aphids, it is important to follow a number of measures:

• get rid of pests on diseased trees in a timely manner;
• carry out liquidation spraying of the entire garden, including berries (raspberries, strawberries, currants, gooseberries);
• clean the trunks of old trees from exfoliated bark, whiten them at the end of winter;
• promptly protect lawns and flower beds growing nearby, especially where there is sorrel, from the invasion of aphids and other harmful insects;
• remove shoots growing from the roots and on the trunk;
• I weed the hallways regularly;
• apply root and foliar fertilizers for rapid growth of leaves and shoots, increasing tissue;
• combine chemical procedures with folk remedies.

Systematic and targeted work to protect the garden and seedlings will certainly bring results in the form of well-developed plants, large healthy leaves and fruits with high nutritional properties, because apples are a valuable source of vitamins all year round.

Attracting birds and insects to the garden that destroy aphids

Some small birds feed on aphids. These are sparrows, tits, morning robins, linnets and some others. In order for them to settle in the garden, in winter and early spring they need to be attracted by feeders and birdhouses. And with the onset of spring warmth, it will take care of not only food, but also water. In European countries, elegant birdbaths are sold that look like sculptural fountains in the garden.

Photo 6. Bird drinkers are best placed next to feeders and birdhouses.

In addition to birds, gardeners have other helpers - these are beneficial insects that eat aphids:

• Ladybugs,
• ground beetles,
• hoverflies,
• earwigs,
• Riders,
• Lacewings,
• Some types of wasps
• Flies are surfids.

To make them appear in the garden, plants are planted whose smell they like - carrots, parsley, celery, lovage, dill.

A good solution is to provide them with wintering in special houses where they can hide from the cold. They are easy to build from scrap materials - scraps of boards, fragments of bricks, tiles, straw, reeds, etc.

Photo 7. A house for beneficial insects made from wood scraps.

Environmentally friendly preparations for processing fruits during ripening

Not all gardeners have time to prepare herbal decoctions and infusions. Many summer residents prefer ready-made means of protection. Everyone wants fruits to be healthy and free of harmful chemicals. Therefore, it is better to choose products that do not accumulate in the apple pulp. These drugs are called biological insecticides. They are made from plant materials or based on beneficial microorganisms. They can be sprayed on the apple tree before flowering, after it and throughout the entire period of fruit ripening. The waiting period for biological products before harvest lasts only 3-7 days.

Most often, gardeners purchase the following bioinsecticides:

• Aktofit,
• Actarophyte,
• Gaupsin,
• Bitoxibacillin – BTU – M,
• Scarado - M,
• Aktoverm,
• Metarizin,
• Verticillin - M,
• Fitoverm,

These drugs belong to the fourth hazard class. That is, they do not harm plants, people and nature. But still, there is a limitation. Some bioinsecticides are dangerous not only for aphids, but also for beneficial insects, especially bees. When choosing a pest control product, you should carefully familiarize yourself with the characteristics of the substance and its application.

Is it possible to spray during flowering?

Often, novice gardeners notice aphids on an apple tree when it has already formed buds. What to do? If you do not take any measures, you will not see the harvest: voracious insects will eat the ovary and will not spare the young leaves. It’s clear that something needs to be done, but what can you spray an apple tree with?

There are only two options here:

• biological drugs;
• folk remedies.

No chemicals! Remember that during flowering such substances will destroy not only aphids, but also beneficial insects, the same bees that pollinate flowers. In addition, drugs that are poisonous to humans, once in a flower, make the fruit dangerous for us.

So, there is only one conclusion - you can’t spray during flowering, but if you really need to, then it’s best to use biological agents or grandma’s recipes. Let's talk in more detail about each.

Personal experience with aphids (unsuccessful so far)

In the process of working on the “Babushkina Dacha” blog, various sources repeatedly mentioned a product called “Fufanon”. The drug fights a complex of pests (including aphids) on almost all crops. Reviews about the product were positive, the price was reasonable. And we decided to spray our apple trees against aphids with Fufanon. The treatment was carried out 2 times. The pests disappeared for a while, but appeared again.

The husband manually crushed the malicious pests, but new colonies were again found in the curled leaves. It’s a pity, an incredible pity for the young apple trees who are struggling to live!

Physical methods

This method involves the use of high and low temperatures. But this method is most often used by gardeners and gardeners in greenhouses. Physical methods of struggle are as follows:

• Using cotton swabs soaked in a soap solution, pests are collected manually;
• Damaged leaves and fruits should be burned, otherwise the aphids will move to undamaged shoots of the apple tree.

Gardeners rarely resort to such methods, often using other, less labor-intensive methods.

Meeting the uninvited guest and identifying him

When attacking a newly emerged sprout of a perennial bush or tree, miniature insects do not leave a single young leaf unattended. Ants protect the pest for its sweet food and monitor the reproduction of its colonies. In a short time, entire hordes are formed from individuals.

During her life, the female lays seventeen times up to forty eggs at a time. The first to appear are females, forming colonies on a particular tree. Their secondary appearance is with a green belly and dark body in early summer. The next individual with wings and wingless appears bisexual. Mass reproduction occurs in August-September.

The autumn clutch can successfully overwinter near the buds in the bark, and with the arrival of warmth, insatiable larvae awaken in it. By feeding on sprouts and leaves, they deprive the plant of life-giving moisture, without which it soon dries out and dies.

When infected, a sticky sweet coating appears on the leaves, attracting flies, ants, and wasps. With the help of their wings and theirs, the parasitic pest travels further to neighboring crops whose plant sap has a high level of amino acids. This happens when plants are oversaturated with nitrogen content or lack of minerals.

The main signs of the presence of aphids are transparent leaf plates with red bubbles, curled downwards; they darken, dry out and die.

Ants are the main indicators of the settlement of unpleasant pest colonies in an apple orchard. It first settles at the top of the tree, then gnawing off young leaves and descends below. By turning any leaf, the parasite is easy to detect. After which the plant should be treated.

Various species of aphids. Its color corresponds to the color of the plant on which it developed its life activity - light pink, orange, light, dark green, gray, black, dark.

Apple plantings can be inhabited by light gray, red-headed, and greenish moths. Harmful insects are not only parasitic themselves, they are also active carriers of infectious and fungal diseases that cause significant damage to young plantings and the future harvest of an adult garden.

The uninvited guest also has opponents who are capable of destroying him in large quantities. These are hover flies, lacewings, earwigs, ground beetles, and ladybugs, which are natural protectors of apple trees. So, when processing crops, you should use products that are safe for their life.

Reasons for appearance

More often, red-headed (blood), gall, or gray varieties of aphids are found on apple trees. The size is no more than 0.2-0.3 cm. She lays eggs on the bark of trees, from which, when warmer, an individual hatches, and she leaves another 40-50 larvae.

Active reproduction of the pest occurs at the beginning of autumn.

Appears on plants whose leaf juice contains a large proportion of amino acids. This is due to a lack of potassium, phosphorus, boron and magnesium with a simultaneously increased nitrogen content. The source of the latter is chicken manure, an excessive amount of which overloads the soil.

Folk remedies for aphids on trees (apple, pear, cherry, plum)

The magazine we mentioned also brings together folk remedies that help get rid of aphids on apple trees. They are shared by amateur gardeners, that is, they can be recommended as truly proven, working folk remedies.

Dandelion flower infusion

Collect 3 kg of yellow dandelion rosettes and fill them with 3 liters of warm water (temperature approximately 40 degrees). Leave for 3 days, then add 2 liters of boiling water. The result is a concentrated infusion. Dilute 1 liter of this concentrate in a bucket of water and spray fruit trees and other crops against aphids.

You can also use roots and leaves. Once we have dug up the roots, we chop them up and soak them in 10 liters of warm water for 3 hours. We also chop the leaves, add water and let it brew. The infusions are filtered and the plants are immediately sprayed against aphids. For apple trees, 3 treatments will be required: during bud break, after flowering and another 10-12 days later.

Infusion of horse sorrel roots

Pine infusion

Take 2 kg of needles from one-year-old pine shoots and fill them with 8 liters of water. Leave for 1 week, stirring occasionally. The result is a concentrated infusion, which must be diluted with water 1:10 before spraying.

Infusion of potato tops

Take 1 kg of potato tops and fill it with 8 liters of water. You need to leave for 3-4 hours, then spray the plants.

Infusion of marigolds

Burdock infusion

During flowering, the entire plant (including roots) is dug up and cut into small pieces. The 13th part of a 10-liter bucket is filled with plant mass and filled with 3 liters of warm water. It is necessary to leave for 3 days, then strain and add water until the bucket is full. Spraying plants with burdock infusion repels aphids.

Decoction of calendula (marigold)

Tansy decoction

The entire plant, along with its roots, is dug up and crushed. 1 kg of green mass is poured with 10 liters of warm water, boiled for 2 hours, then filtered and added 40 g of soap shavings (household soap). This decoction is used for spraying currants and gooseberries against aphids.

Take dry leaves and husks of garlic and chop them. 200 g of the mass is poured with 10 liters of water and left for 24 hours, after which it is filtered and sprayed on the plants.

It is also effective to use fresh garlic pulp. You need to pass 1-2 heads of garlic through a press, put the pulp into a 10-liter bucket and fill it to the top with water. Leave for 24 hours. The resulting infusion is filtered and the apple trees are treated against aphids.

Hot pepper

They say it helps very well to get rid of aphids, including on apple trees. You can use either fresh hot pepper (8-10 pieces) or ground red pepper (20 g). The hotter the pepper, the better! Fresh pepper is finely chopped, mixed with water (for some reason the recipe does not say the amount of water) and 1 tablespoon of soap shavings is added (for sticking). It is necessary to leave for 24 hours, then strain and spray the plants affected by aphids.

Onion peel infusion

(tested by us in practice, but did not bring the expected result) 1 bucket of onion peels is poured with 2 buckets of warm water, left for 4-5 days. Then the infusion is filtered and soap shavings are added (20 g per 10 liters). Before use, the infusion is diluted with water in a ratio of 1:2.

During the year in advance, you need to stock up well on tangerine and orange peels, dry them and chop them. And then, if aphids have attacked the garden, 500 ml of crushed raw materials are soaked in 1 liter of water for a day. After this, boil everything for 10 minutes and filter. The result is a concentrate that needs to be poured into a 10-liter bucket of water and sprayed on the plants. To enhance the effect, add soap to the infusion

And you need to spray, paying special attention to the inside of the leaf, where aphids love to sit.

By the way!

• Infusions of tobacco leaves, chamomile leaves and flowers, green mass and roots of tomatoes, celandine, and dusting with tobacco dust are also used against aphids.
• Adding soap shavings (usually 30-40 g) to herbal infusions and decoctions promotes their strong adhesion to the leaves.
• It is better to spray apple trees against aphids using traditional methods when the first insects appear than to wait until they multiply in incredible numbers (then you will definitely have to use “heavy artillery”).
• Hunting belts made of adhesive tape are also successfully used against ants and aphids on fruit trees.

Our opinion is this: If aphids have infested the garden, folk remedies are unlikely to help. You'll need some heavy artillery here! That is, chemistry. And for prevention, it is necessary to follow agricultural practices. Agrotechnical techniques will be discussed further.

What home remedies can be used against pests?

Traditional methods of exterminating pests

Many industrial preparations cannot be used to treat fruit trees and bushes in June, since many of them have either bloomed or have already set fruit. Pest control in the summer is usually carried out using less toxic agents that do not penetrate inside the plant.

A well-known and effective pest repellent is a mixture of tar or laundry soap and oil. But gardeners are experimenting with many other substances:

• milk with iodine;
• ammonia;
• hydrogen peroxide;
• Coca Cola;
• ash;
• mustard;
• green soap;
• tobacco;
• tar;
• boric acid.

These and other folk remedies are used when spraying trees with stronger agents is already dangerous for garden owners. That is, during flowering and fruit ripening. Protection against aphids as a result of using traditional recipes is weak. Spraying must be repeated weekly.

Ammonia against aphids helps for a very short period of time until the smell disappears. A 40-gram bottle of ammonia is diluted in 10 liters of water. Add 100 g of soap there. Trees should be treated with this product after flowering, when fruits have already set.

Baking soda is used both as an independent product and in combination with soap:

• 1 tbsp. a spoonful of soda per liter of water, the plants are sprayed several times every 5 days;
• liter of water, 1 tbsp. spoon of liquid soap, 2 tbsp. spoons of soda.

Soda against aphids is a safe means for humans to kill these insects. Even plants with almost ripe fruits can be treated with it.

Pests are also destroyed using iodine mixed with milk, whey or soda ash:

• A liter of water, half a glass of milk, half a cube of iodine. Take iodine into a syringe, pour it into milk, mix, add the mixture to water. Mix everything and spray the plants.
• 2 tbsp. Mix spoons of soda ash in a liter of water. Add 1 teaspoon of iodine and soap solution. Add the resulting mixture to a bucket of water. Soap will be required at the rate of 200 g per bucket of water.
• For a bucket of water, a liter of whey and 1 teaspoon of iodine.

Iodine decomposes very quickly under sunlight, and in the last two formulations its content is too low to actually destroy pests. But whey and milk, like soap, become sticky when dry.

Methods for controlling aphids

All basic pest control products have an alkaline environment, which these insects do not like. Peroxide from aphids - money and labor down the drain. Low concentrations do not harm multicellular organisms. A large concentration will burn the pests along with the leaves.

Many gardeners claim that vinegar against aphids is quite effective if used correctly: 1 tbsp. a spoonful of vinegar/vinegar essence per 1 liter of water/10 liters of water. There are statements that 2-3 times of treatment are enough for the insects to go away.

Vodka against aphids is used in its pure form and does not require dilution. Sometimes soap is added to it.

To get rid of garden pests, you can plant plants that repel them or use infusions of the same herbs to treat already affected bushes and trees.

Celandine against aphids is one of the most effective natural remedies. Since this is a weed, it is better not to plant it in the garden, but to use an infusion: 3-4 old celandine bushes per bucket of water. Cut into pieces, add warm water and leave for a day. After the water turns brown, strain the infusion and spray the plants with it. The treatment is repeated every 2-3 days until the pests disappear. If the infestation of branches is as severe as the aphids on the trees in this photo, the branches can be rinsed in the infusion for 5 minutes.

Garlic against aphids is a fairly effective remedy: pour 6 g of garlic into a liter of water and leave for a day in a dark place. Plants are sprayed with this mixture 2-3 times once a week.

Almost all folk methods of fighting insects contain soap. This suggests that the real active component of the folk remedy for aphids is soap, and not any other additives. The best remedy for pests controlled by ants is trapping belts on garden trees.

How to treat an apple tree against aphids by spraying

If an apple tree is infected, it is necessary to treat it for aphids. The insect not only causes direct harm to fruit trees, but is also a carrier of dangerous diseases and viruses.

Various methods are used to control aphids. Sometimes you have to act in a complex way: the pest is capable of developing immunity to poisons.

Use of chemicals

Beginners are often lost and don’t know what to do if a pest is found on the site. In this case, it is better not to hesitate and to use chemicals for treatment as quickly as possible that can significantly reduce the number of aphids.

If the insect was a nuisance in the previous season, the apple tree is treated in early spring. During this period, the leaves are just beginning to bloom and the risk of damaging them is minimized, but the aphid larvae are completely unprotected.

There are various preparations on sale that effectively destroy overwintered pests and their larvae:

• "Nitrafen". To prepare the solution, use 300 g of the drug per 10 liters of water. You need to spray the apple tree before the buds open.
• "Oleocuprite". Used for one-time preventive treatment at the beginning of the season. Destroys adults, larvae and eggs of insects. Used at 4% concentration. At the same time, it destroys ticks, suckers, and effectively fights scab.
• "Kinmiks." An insecticide of contact-intestinal action, capable of destroying adults and larvae. The solution must be sprayed on young leaves on both sides. 1 ampoule of the drug is diluted per 10 liters of water.

After flowering, in June and July, so that the solution does not burn the leaves, it is necessary to use milder insecticides:

• "Cypermethrin"
• "Decis"
• "Spark".

You can spray trees with these products every 2.5–3 weeks throughout the summer.

“Karate” and Inta-Vir are also popular among summer residents.”

• “Karate” is economical to use: to treat one hundred square meters of land, dilute 1 ampoule of “Karate” (2 ml) per 10 liters of water. It can be used in combination with other means.
• "Inta-Vir" is a broad-spectrum drug that destroys about 50 types of insect pests that are dangerous to the garden. For one adult apple tree you will need 5 liters of solution, prepared at the rate of 1 tablet per 10 liters of water.

Effective folk remedies

To control pests in the garden, our ancestors used folk remedies. These recipes are time-tested and have long proven their effectiveness. Today they are used by those who have a negative attitude towards the use of chemicals on their site. Such products are safe for plants and humans, do not harm the environment, and do not deteriorate the quality of the soil.

You can remove aphids from an apple tree by spraying it with one of the following compounds:

• Garlic infusion. To prepare the product you will need 5-6 chopped garlic cloves, 1 tsp. liquid soap and 2 tsp. vegetable oil. Garlic is poured into a glass of water and left for 24 hours. After this, add the remaining components, mix thoroughly and pour into a 3-liter jar, which is then filled to the top with water. The finished infusion is filtered through cheesecloth and sprayed onto the leaves of the apple tree.
• Infusion of tobacco. The product is especially effective at the initial stage of pest emergence. The composition for spraying is prepared from 200 g of dried tobacco and 5 liters of water, infusing it for 2 days. Then the contents of the container are filtered, 50 g of soap shavings are added and another 5 liters of water are added. After the soap has completely dissolved, the infusion is used for spraying.
• Decoction of onion peels. First, pour 10 liters of boiling water into 200 g of raw material and cook over low heat for 5–10 minutes. After this, the broth is infused for 4–5 days, filtered and used to combat the pest.
• Infusion of celandine. The grass is used fresh. To prepare the infusion, 1 kg of raw material is crushed, placed in an enamel bucket, poured 3 liters of boiling water, after half an hour another 7 liters of hot water are added, covered with a lid and infused for 2 days. The infected tree is treated with the prepared infusion.

For prevention, you can use such an affordable product as wood ash. It has been noticed that aphids do not touch trees treated with an ash solution. It is prepared at the rate of 2 cups of ash per bucket of water. To make the solution stick to the leaves better, you can add 100 g of grated laundry soap to it. When processing, you need to try to ensure that the product gets on the underside of the leaves - this is where the larvae and adult aphids most often settle.

Chemicals, insecticides

The disadvantage of folk remedies is their short-lived action, so you often have to turn to chemicals. The simplest remedy is liquid soap or dishwashing detergent. Its solution is easily applied to low shrubs, washing away aphids from the leaves and covering the surface with a thin protective film. But more often you have to resort to more stringent methods.

Chemical agents are:

• contact;
• intestinal;
• systemic.

Prevent aphids from growing on your fruit trees

Each type has positive and negative sides.

1. The contact agent will immediately help the plant, since it kills the pest by penetrating through its integument. But the surviving aphid, sensing danger, immediately begins to multiply.
2. Intestinal preparations enter the digestive system, poisoning the insect. They are usually used together with contact ones to enhance the effect of both.
3. Systemic drugs make the plant sap poisonous to pests, penetrating into the leaf tissue. They are well suited for treating trees and are quickly absorbed, so they are not afraid of rain. But the effect may appear after 2-3 weeks. Fruit trees will withstand this period, but for flowers. For example, roses, this delay can be disastrous.

However, it is better to resort to treatment with chemicals in the most extreme cases. They destroy not only harmful aphids, but also the predators that feed on them. In addition, pests quickly develop resistance to drugs, so they need to be replaced. Do not treat plants during the flowering period - this will harm pollinating insects.

How to protect seedlings and mature trees from aphids

Mature seedlings can be protected using preventive measures. Aphids enter the site in various ways:

• along with seedlings;
• flies from a neighboring area;
• after wintering on the same plant.

Therefore, additional treatment of seedlings is carried out after purchase; after wintering, they are treated with agents that can fight and kill the larvae. It is useful to combine chemicals and folk remedies to achieve the best effect. Garden crops need to be protected in such a way as to get rid of pests, prevent their reappearance, and not harm the apple tree.

in spring

Young plants are inspected for pests. When purchasing seedlings, they are sprayed with a weak solution of potassium permanganate and foamed laundry soap. It is better not to use chemicals on early shoots, as this may negatively affect the development of the future tree.

In spring, mature trees are treated with products that destroy the larvae. Overwintered individuals die before they have time to mature and harm the apple tree. It is mandatory to apply nitrogen and organic fertilizers and mulch the soil. Carefully spray the upper part of the crown of the fruit tree. After flowering, it is better to use only folk remedies to combat aphids.

In summer

During the period of fruit ripening, it is prohibited to use chemicals. Industrial insecticides can poison fruits, interfere with their development, impair fruiting, and reduce yields. Any chemical treatment is carried out before flowering begins.

In July and June, it is advisable to carry out preventive spraying after each rain. Aphids can migrate at any time, so it is worth protecting the plant in a timely manner. Unlike chemicals, folk remedies are short-lived and are easily washed off by heavy rain. Therefore, the treatment is repeated regularly.

In summer, it can be treated with a weak solution of tobacco dust, mustard powder, soda, and other insecticides. The main thing is to maintain concentration and apply to the entire surface of the wood.

Particular attention is paid to the crown of the crown, where aphids begin to nest

in autumn

Before wintering in the fall, the plants are again treated for larvae. But before this, during the fruiting period, as a preventive measure, they are sprayed with a solution of ammonia, laundry soap, and mustard powder. Fumigated with tobacco smoke to prevent the migration of winged individuals.

Use a wire brush to clean off the dead part of the trunk, after placing film or newspapers. This will prevent the larvae from laying for the winter. All collected remains are burned, the ashes are poured outside the garden area.

Preventive measures

Preventive measures help prevent the appearance of harmful insects:

• regular watering, proper application of fertilizers, mulching and sprinkling of the apple tree crown ensure a dense foliage structure and its elasticity, which is difficult for aphids; as a result, they migrate to other trees;
• limiting the use of nitrogen-containing fertilizers normalizes the balance of organic compounds in the soil and plant sap of tree foliage, such garden crops become unattractive to the pest;
• Before preserving an apple orchard for wintering, the trees are carefully cleaned of the bark, under which aphids prefer to hide during the cold season, this is done using a scraper or wire brush, separating dead areas on the trunk and skeletal branches, while the soil under the tree is lined with film in order to subsequently collect and destroy the peeled bark, which may contain eggs and larvae of aphids.