At all times, fur products were worth their weight in gold. A fur coat not only protected its owner from bad weather, but also testified to financial well-being and importance in society. Karakul gained popularity at the end of the 19th century and is still found in the collections of leading clothing designers. This fur is represented by many types, the most famous of which are astrakhan fur and broadtail.
What type of fabric is this?
Karakul is the skin of lambs of Karakul sheep, taken at different times from the moment of birth and dressed in a special way.
What does doodle look like?
The birthplace of the material is Uzbekistan. The name of the fur itself translates as “Black Lake”, in honor of the Uzbek city.
Origin story
Karakul sheep are unpretentious and easily adapt to the desert climate, which is why the breed has become popular for breeding in Central Asia. Karakul was the first type of fur that humans began to manufacture and is the most ancient. The first mention of it appears in the 8th century, and the trade in sheep skins was described by geographers in the 10th century.
Karakul was admired by famous travelers Marco Polo and Afanasy Nikitin. The fur was widely known and sold in Europe. In the 17th century, the material was brought to Russia.
When Uzbekistan became part of the Soviet Union, 400 thousand sheep were transported to Afghanistan, and 70 thousand were driven to Iran. This marked the beginning of the emergence of different breeds of astrakhan fur.
The production of astrakhan fur began to improve in the 70-80s of the 20th century, but a crisis broke out, and then the collapse of the USSR. The breeders of Central Asia, left without control, sold all available skins and exterminated breeding sheep, without thinking about the continuation of the breed. Supplies dwindled and prices began to fall. Karakul has lost popularity.
At the beginning of the 21st century, couturier Ralph Lauren became interested in this fur and presented it in his clothing collection. Other fashion designers followed him by incorporating karakul into their new models. Thanks to this, the material is experiencing a second wave of popularity.
How to distinguish natural astrakhan from a fake?
For a long time we were looking for a person who could give an accurate description of natural astrakhan fur, so that anyone could very simply and quickly determine the quality of the product. We admit, this was not so easy to do, but in the end we found a resident of the city of Khasavyurt in the Republic of Dagestan - Salman Ramadanov, who generously told us about how to properly check the quality of astrakhan skin and many other interesting things.
We were stunned when we learned that this man has been sewing astrakhan hats for almost 47 years and during all this time he has made more than 26 thousand hats! Salman stated with regret the fact that today there are not many people left who can make a real Caucasian papakha. Basically, everywhere people are sold factory-stamped fifth or sixth grades of astrakhan fur, or, even worse, consumer goods are brought from China. So, here's what we heard from the master:
Natural karakul can be obtained only in the first 2-3 days after the birth of the lamb. After this, the quality of the scribble deteriorates hourly. Of course, purebred karakul is more expensive than factory stamping, but you will wear such a product 10 times longer, and you are guaranteed pleasure.
The most valuable varieties of karakul are bob, valek and grivka. Personally, I make my hats from the Valek and Grivka varieties, since they are the ones I like best and are probably the most beautiful. In general, there are very simple rules that will allow you to determine within one minute whether the scribble in front of you is real or fake.
To do this, you need to understand that there are certain properties on which the quality of astrakhan fur, and, accordingly, the astrakhan fur hat, depends. These properties include:
- Shine and silkiness of the cover;
- The nature and degree of tortuosity of the curls;
- The density and density of the arrangement of the same curls.
Of course, experts and craftsmen evaluate the quality of astrakhan fur according to many parameters, but the properties indicated above are enough for a person to determine the naturalness of the skin with an accuracy of 95%. So this is how it should be:
- Astrakhan skin should be soft, reminiscent of silk. Please note that when shining direct light, the skin should shimmer.
- The more crimped the curls, the better. If you see that the curls are almost open, then there is a high probability that the skin was taken out late, that is, not in the first two or three days.
- The density of the curls determines the appearance of the skin. The most important thing is that there should be no “baldness” anywhere, and even better, the curls should be distributed evenly over the entire surface. Yes, and the closer the curls are to each other, the better.
The above described is an ideal option, but Salman revealed another secret to us:
There is a very simple rule that allows you to quickly determine the quality of a hat: pick up the hat and begin to exert mechanical influence on it, that is, you need to wrinkle and fray it. If the curls retain the same position and shape, then the astrakhan hat is real.
Only in Ali Askerov’s store you can buy natural astrakhan fur and an astrakhan hat of the highest quality from one of the most famous manufacturers of hats in Dagestan - Salman Rabadanov. The quality of workmanship and the valuable type of astrakhan fur - the roller, which is used to make our daddies, will not leave anyone indifferent.
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Types of fabric
Main types of karakul:
Astragan
Fur of the highest quality. It is more wear-resistant and heat-saving. Easy to wear and care for thanks to the short-cropped fur.
Yahobab
Skins of lambs, not older than 1 month. Matte surface, slightly silky. The curls are loose and elastic and have different shapes.
Uzbek
Often called the “Moscow jacket”. Dense, tube-shaped curls are arranged in waves.
Afghan astragan
The largest and heaviest skins. Thanks to its thickness, it is most wear-resistant. It has a wavy curl pattern and high shine.
South African
Better known as "Svakara". Easy to care for. Ribbed pattern due to parallel ridges.
Pros and cons of fabric
Pros:
- Unique pattern - each item is individual;
- Plasticity of the material - you can gather the fabric into folds and easily model the shape of the product;
- The fineness of the fur - the fur coat does not make you look fat or spoil your figure;
- Reasonable price for most breeds.
Minuses:
- Due to its thinness, it will not warm you in severe frosts;
- You need to approach the breed with care - some species can last no more than 3-4 seasons.
Fashionable models 2021-2022
There's nothing worse than an unfashionable item. Not every girl will wear even a beautiful fur coat if it is out of fashion. Therefore, before buying winter outerwear, you need to find out what styles of fur coats are in fashion this season.
It is already known which astrakhan fur coats will be in demand in the next two years. Don't miss the chance to create a stylish look. Be patient for the fashion forecast.
Astrakhan fur coats will be in fashion - this is the first good news. A flat curl (as if driven in fur) will be most valued.
Regarding the length, fur coats and sheepskin coats will be in trend. A trapezoidal silhouette of a medium-length fur coat with cut sleeves in the shape of butterfly wings. Medium length is the best option.
Color spectrum:
- Black color (natural);
- Dark gray color with shimmer;
- Cinnamon;
- Grif;
- White.
Multi-colored fur coats (painted with special paint compositions). Painted astrakhan is not an option. Please note that dyed fur cannot be wetted, it falls out quickly, such a thing can only be worn on an occasion, but not for everyday wear.
It is worth focusing not only on the color scheme, but also on small details. For example, fashion dictates an unusual combination of materials. The fur coat can be made from astrakhan fur, and the sleeves can be made from a completely different fur. They will create contrast (if the fur coat is black and the sleeves are white). Also in fashion are additional accessories that match a fur coat with flat pile. This can be a wide belt (in the color of the fur product) or expressive buttons, a voluminous collar.
A fur coat made from Afghan astrakhan fur can be decorated with rhinestones and stones. Just there shouldn’t be a lot of decorations. Too bright is the style of the crow.
How many years will a fur coat made from Afghan astrakhan fur last?
A natural fur coat made from Afghan astrakhan fur can last a long time (maximum fifteen years). It all depends on your accuracy and frequency of going out in a fur coat. The products can be easily restored in the studio. If you decide to save a lot and want to purchase a faux fur coat, expect that the item will please you for a maximum of two seasons.
What is it like to wear - reviews?
In wearing, a fur coat made from Afghan astrakhan fur is not inferior to a mouton one. This means that it does not lose its shine and appearance after the first cold season. Positive reviews confirm this fact. A natural astrakhan fur coat is warm even when it’s very cold.
Many lovers of natural fur noted that astrakhan fur should not be compared with mink (this fur is a hundred times better). But there are also opposing reviews that demonstrate a different position.
Some fashionistas believe that wearing astrakhan fur is inhumane. That’s why they skin animals callously. It is worth understanding that animals are bred in order to make a profit (they get meat and skins, this is not illegal).
What standards are used in production? What do they take into account?
To comply with the standards described in GOST 2865-68, skins must:
- Be removed in one layer, from head to tail and toes.
- Do not have holes, tears, or snatches from the edges.
- Be thoroughly cleaned of any remaining meat, tendons and fat, and free of ear cartilage, legs and tail;
GOST 8748-70 describes the same thing, and additionally mentions canning conditions:
- The skins must be preserved using a pickled or dry-salted method.
- When dry-salted preservation, they must be thoroughly degreased, cleaned of dirt and blood, the hair roots must not be damaged, they must be straightened evenly.
- When fermented, they must be fermented with bread kvass, have white flesh, and be evenly spread. The fur must be cleaned of all types of contaminants.
What purposes can this fabric be used for?
Fur coats are made from astrakhan fur, but in addition to them, vests and short fur coats are made from fur. As well as shawls, hats, gloves and fur collars.
Astrakhan clothing
Why you should wear astrakhan clothes
There is constant debate about whether it is worth wearing astrakhan fur. Many of our compatriots still perceive this fur as something “soviet”. They would be quite surprised to learn how in demand karakul is in Western markets. The nuance is that an ignorant person will not always distinguish an artificial scribble from a natural one.
Meanwhile, natural sheepskin fur is unique. If you purchase a fur coat, coat, or jacket made from real astrakhan fur, rest assured that they will serve you for years, and you can rely on their quality. It is especially worth noting the astrakhan hats, which are uniform hats for senior officers, which already speaks of the prestige and functionality of fur. If you decide to choose broadtail, then it is better to create a jacket or demi-season coat from it. Sewing is entrusted to a professional - on astrakhan fur any seam is extremely noticeable.
Karakul is good because it ideally hides figure flaws. Even in a simple fur coat you will look slim and feminine. What can we say about modern models, which are not only created in original styles, but also have fur trim. By the way, astrakhan clothing for men, including jackets and even blazers, look no less stylish.
