DIY beaver trap. How to catch a beaver? Effective ways

How to make a walk-through trap with your own hands: drawings KP 250

I bought several.
walk-through traps for catching beaver 250mm. I washed one of the grease, although the iron still smears black on my hands. I started trying to cock the side springs, but I couldn’t. At the very end of this action, when there is little left to fasten the safety hook, the spring jumps from the corner to the other side of the frame. In general, save me, help me, explain how to cock it correctly, and maybe use a hammer somewhere to ease the pain. Sorry, it’s confusing, but I hope anyone who uses this design will understand. From uv. Mikhail quote: Originally posted by Mikhail74: save, help, explain how to cock correctly

Make a hook out of the wire (shown in black). Place your foot in the stirrup on the ground. Hook the top ring of the spring. Pull the trap up by the frame.

Another tool is like here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LRQxdvT0J8I but the hook is easier to make and takes up less space in the backpack.

For completely lazy trappers with weak hands: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Jc6btEs-hpo&feature=related a device made from a “gun” for liquid nail type glue.

And I just cock it with my hands

quote: Originally posted by Mink: Make a hook out of wire

That's why it doesn't work with a hook. When bent, the ends of the spring slip through the bottom corner and everything breaks off. Thanks for the video, good tools, I’ll try to make something similar.

quote: Originally posted by Maxik 13: my hook came with the traps. The spring also flew off at first, but now I’ve adjusted! I hold the frame with one hand, and with the other hand I take the spring from below and it doesn’t fly off. If I don’t have a hook, I can give you mine, I have 3 of them lying around idle. Where did you buy the traps and what was the price? If it’s not a secret!

Hooks were also included. I bought it at Oborontekh, on Varshavka, 46. When I called, they said they would sell it quickly, I took 6 pieces, there were 7 left, the price was 619 rubles. size 250mm, there is a smaller size, but I wasn’t interested in the price and quantity. Yes, thanks for the advice, I'll try it now.

Another piece of advice! The fuses should be on the bottom so it works faster! I also bought them from DefenseTech in the fall, they were 560. Now I want to buy a dozen more, I really liked them!

I tried it, it seemed to work, although not the first time. I’ve already finished talking about the fuses. I left the springs compressed, I hope they will shrink a little. Thanks again.

quote: Originally posted by Mikhail74: I hope they get hooked a little

quote: Originally posted by Mikhail74: It doesn’t work with a hook. When bent, the ends of the spring slip through the bottom corner and everything breaks off.

Strange. There is a special bend in the corner of the frame so that the spring rings do not slip through. Maybe you're pulling at the wrong point? Take another look at the videos on YouTube.

You are lucky! We don’t sell them here, but I really want a dozen

quote: Originally posted by Mink:

Strange. There is a special bend in the corner of the frame so that the spring rings do not slip through. Maybe you're pulling at the wrong point? Take another look at the videos on YouTube.

That's the thing, it slips through this bend. And I’m not the only one, as it turns out. Now I’ve figured it out, you need to use your second hand to keep it from slipping. On YouTube the traps are foreign, but here, as always, they are native, made with love forever.

quote: Originally posted by DIM: Lucky you! We don’t sell them here, but I really want a dozen

So order through the online store, they deliver.

quote: Originally posted by Mikhail74:

So order through the online store, they deliver.

Can you give me the address? Sincerely.

quote: Originally posted by DIM: Lucky you! We don’t sell them here, but I really want a dozen

Take a ride to Kirov. I took 430 there that year.

And they cock well by hand. The springs fly off (fly off) only when you lower them.

Cocking pins are included in the kit. You can alert with your hands, but 1-2 traps, then your hands get tired and you need to rest, a kind of wrist expander. You can use your knee or foot, but on a hard surface. The advantage of this trap is that you can set the trap at home or in the garage, throw on safety hooks and carry the already cocked traps to the fishing site. Practice, see how it works at home and you’ll understand everything, just pour boiling water on it and wipe it dry; they come in some kind of thick lubricant, like grease.

Has anyone tried setting these traps for a badger?

quote: Originally posted by ZPP*: Has anyone tried setting these traps for a badger?

It’s like in that joke: “Lard, it’s lard, why try it.” The badger gets into the original CP 250 without any problems, but not at the entrance to the hole, but on the paths.

PS. I can’t say anything about the Berezovsky traps, which are “in solid oil”, because there is a different guard on them. Less sensitive and the direction of operation is different.

quote: Originally posted by Mink:

It’s like in that joke: “Lard, it’s lard, why try it.” The badger gets into the original CP 250 without any problems, but not at the entrance to the hole, but on the paths.

PS. I can’t say anything about the Berezovsky traps, which are “in solid oil”, because there is a different guard on them. Less sensitive and the direction of operation is different.

Dear Mink! But here you can go into more detail “because there is a different guard on them. Less sensitive and the direction of operation is different.”

If you have a photo, please post it with your comments. Thank you in advance! Sincerely, DIM.

KP 250 VNIIOZ

The alarm mechanism is made entirely of wire and is attached to one frame of the trap. When triggered, all parts of the alarm mechanism move inside the frames. To operate, there is no need to leave any free space in the alert zone outside the frame. For example, a trap can be placed on the bottom of a reservoir with a guard facing down, camouflaged, or in any way block the passage around it.

Which trap is better for beaver KP 250 or KP 320

Hello, in this article we will tell you which beaver trap is better, KP 250 or KP 320. Walk-through beaver traps are the most effective. The animal hits it with a 98% probability and dies within a few minutes. You get the prey, the beast does not suffer for long. The peculiarity of this trap is that it catches the animal by the neck and torso. A beaver cannot break its paw and escape. There are several types of walk-through beaver traps. They are also used to catch muskrats and other animals with valuable fur. The most popular models of traps are kp250 and kp320.

Let's look at the nuances of hunting animals using this device.

Why are fences needed?

When hunting a beaver, it is often necessary to block the area where it moves. For these purposes, fences are used in which a walk-through trap is installed.

They are made from dry branches and stakes, preferably from coniferous trees. Fresh branches and leaves are placed in the fences as bait.

And here's what you need to know: DIY beaver trap

Traps are tied to fences using thin fishing line. The goal is to guide the animal so that it passes through the frames.

Therefore, it is necessary to build a fence so that the beaver, heading to the hut, to feed, or swimming along the shore, cannot bypass the obstacle either from above, below, or from the sides. The attractiveness of this method is that it can be used at any time of the year.

It would be more effective to hang two traps in the fence, one above the other.

Which trap is better for beaver KP 250 or KP 320

It is also considered a pressure trap and is used in almost any situation. It happens that the reservoir is too shallow to set other types of traps, exits, crossings and other beaver tracks are numerous and it is difficult to predict where it will appear.

Passage traps are placed wherever traces of an animal can be seen, right up to the intended entrance to the hole. The cost of these devices is low, you can install as many of them as you like.

There are several places where installing a trap will be most effective. Let's take a closer look.

Installation of traps on canals

Beavers dig a large number of small canals, which they use to advance while storing food for the winter or searching for food. When there is not enough of it, animals dig through even more canals and almost all of them lead to logging sites.

When you set a trap in this place, make sure that there are no branches or other objects in the place where you set the trap that could interfere with your hunt. Nothing should interfere with the correct operation of the trap.

Choose a place for the trap and drive two strong stakes there. The trap clings to them. If the channel is wide, then the trap is placed approximately in the middle. Choose the deepest place in the canal because beavers love to dive under obstacles and splash around in the water.

The trap should be immersed in water, with a stick placed on top of it. The beaver will try to swim under the stick and end up in a trap. At the same moment, the rest of the channel space on the left and right should be filled with standing sticks.

Do this in such a way that the animal does not have a single chance to get around your trap. In the case when the depth of the channel is about 1 meter, traps are placed in 2 pieces immediately above each other. If everything is done correctly, the animal will definitely be caught in it.

Setting a trap for a beaver at a crossing

In every place where a beaver lives, there are dams through which the animals move to another part of the reservoir. Before installing the trap, cover all exits from the water with wooden stakes or branches, leave a small gap and place the trap there.

To create obstacles, use natural materials so as not to scare the beaver. In the same way, a trap is placed on the exit.

Setting a trap at the entrance to a beaver hole

There are several entrances to the beaver's hole. It is worth determining which one is used most often. A trap is placed near him according to the same principle as always. The remaining exits must be blocked with branches and natural materials so that they cannot be used.

Before setting a trap, it is important to determine that there is a beaver in the hole, otherwise what is the point of setting traps?

Installing a beaver trap in a fence

As winter approaches, animals rarely go ashore, but continue to swim in the water. You can catch a beaver if you set a trap near a fence. To do this, you need to look for a deep place where there is a fallen tree or cut it down and put it up yourself.

A ladder made of logs and branches is placed against a tree in the water; a trap is attached to the topmost step. The remaining passages in the water are tightly closed with branches and other materials.

Sooner or later the beaver will return home and get caught in your trap. If there are traps in each described place, then you will catch the animal in a few days, or even hours.

It is worth remembering that beavers have a developed instinct of self-preservation and they sense poorly set traps. If you can't do something right away, it's not necessarily a low-quality trap, it's likely that you have little experience.

It is difficult to guess which trap is better for a beaver, KP 250 or KP 320. Both options can be actively used for hunting. To determine the effectiveness of the trap, you need to try both versions of the trap.

Beaver catching in winter

Probably many people believe that the beaver sleeps in winter. Only in reality this does not happen, beavers simply reduce their activity, so it is worth raising the question of how to catch a beaver in winter.

It’s worth saying right away that winter hunting is not an easy task and requires a lot of effort, especially physically.

Preparing the hunting site

Winter rodent fishing itself begins in the fall. When ice has not yet appeared in the reservoir, it is necessary to find the deepest place where the beaver settlement is located. And mark it. This is necessary so that in winter you can easily find a place for future installation of the trap.

The answer to how to catch a beaver in winter involves using a trap. Accordingly, after preparing the ice hole, it is necessary to proceed with its installation. But first of all, it’s worth preparing a special strong platform so that the mechanism stands firmly. A small block of wood can be an excellent assistant in making it.

You also need to prepare a broom from aspen branches (beaver bait). You can, of course, use another tree, but it is best to take aspen, the branches of which should not exceed a length of more than 1 meter.

After all the necessary preparations, you can install the trap. The platform with the trap is placed in the middle of the ice hole, then a broom is lowered at a distance of about 50 cm. After that, all that remains is to wait for the beast.

Source

How to make a trap? Homemade traps for hunting: types, photos

• November 20, 2018
• Equipment
• Eugene

Getting food is one of the first necessities for humans. Since ancient times, people have invented traps and tools for catching game and large animals. It also wouldn’t hurt for modern citizens to know how to make a trap. Who knows how fate will turn out? And those who like unarmed hunting will find these skills useful.

Castoreum

It is worth telling about this organ in a little more detail, since the entire tragic history of the beaver tribe is connected not only with the indefatigable prey of this animal for its most valuable fur, but also with an equally, and sometimes many times more expensive, part of the beaver’s body - the beaver stream. The beaver stream is a pair of pear-shaped sacs that have long been considered the musk glands of the beaver. As studies have shown, these organs do not have a glandular structure, but are highly wrinkled connective tissue formations of epithelial origin. The physiological function of the beaver stream has not been fully studied. It is known, however, that it is involved in calcium metabolism. The urine that gets into these bags undergoes fermentation and is subsequently used to mark the territory. Both males and females have a beaver stream, and although it differs slightly in chemical composition, it is possible that it is associated with sexual activity (marking to attract individuals of the opposite sex, mutual sniffing of males and females). There is some difference in properties: for example, when dried, the contents of females’ sacs lose weight from 5 to 15%, and in adult males - up to 30%. The weight of the beaver stream of an adult animal is 170-200 g; that of young beavers is less. There is no significant difference between males and females in the weight of the pouches. The beaver stream of Canadian beavers is lighter in weight and differs in composition compared to European beavers. In the Middle Ages, Russian, or Siberian, beaver stream was especially valued by healers. The chemical composition and properties of the jet are quite complex and have not been sufficiently studied. It is known that the contents of the stream are dissolved and extracted in alcohol and ether. It is poorly soluble in water and insoluble in acetone and gasoline. The contents of the beaver stream include essential oils, which give the characteristic smell of soaked willow bark, resinous substances, castorin, cholesterol, ammonium carbonate, calcium carbonate, calcium phosphate, salicylic acid, benzoic acid, phenol and other substances. Beaver stream has been used in medicine since ancient times. For a long time it was considered almost a panacea for all diseases. It is mentioned in their works by Hippocrates, Galen, Avicenna, Marius and others. Beaver stream was especially valued in the East. In medieval medical books, castorium (the main active principle of beaver stream) was recommended for use in gynecological diseases, amenorrhea, and especially in various nervous diseases as an anticonvulsant and sedative. Some northern peoples practically did not use beaver skins, but they had a high price for beaver stream, which they used in various rituals and religious practices. Slavic peoples also used beaver stream to treat throat diseases, chest diseases, etc. Unfortunately, many traditional medicine recipes have been lost. It is known that the contents of the bags promote rapid healing of wounds, and a solution in alcohol cures abscesses and boils in a few days. The bactericidal properties of the stream are also evidenced by the fact that the beaver stream bags themselves can be stored for years without undergoing any changes, without being affected by rotting bacteria, mold fungi and even mites. Currently, modern medicine does not deny the healing properties of beaver stream. Salicylic acid, which is the basis of many modern drugs, was originally isolated from willow bark, and, as we know, it is the main component of beaver nutrition. But due to the high cost of preparations made from natural beaver stream and possible counterfeiting on the black market, it is still safer to use industrial medicines. Currently, beaver stream is more widely used in the perfume industry as a fixative for the odors of the most expensive perfumes and gives them a peculiar “animal” smell. The organized beaver fishery that was then still in the USSR, which began in 1963, made it possible to abandon the import of beaver stream and provided the domestic perfume industry with its own raw materials.

Types and purpose

The material and method of making the snare are selected depending on the type of game. For birds and small animals, wire, metal arcs, branches, sticks, ropes and similar objects are used as a basis. For hunting large animals, metal, parachute lines, nylon, canvas, and the like are used.

Traps for sable and other fur-bearing animals are divided as follows:

1. Next option.
2. Pass-through model.
3. Wood modification.

The first category of self-catchers is installed on the animal trail. Despite the different types of devices, they have a common design feature. It consists of a pair of connected arches with a base that hold the animal’s paws using a spring mechanism. Among the types: frame, plate, plateless types.

Passage models are classified as humane snares. In them, the grip is by the neck or body, the game dies quickly, without much suffering. In this case, the skin of the animal is not damaged.

Wooden versions are designed for catching squirrels. The design is a pointed crutch fixed in a tree. The arc looks down, and a canopy is mounted on top.

Habitats

As a rule, beavers settle on the banks of slow rivers and streams, and on lakes. Animals build “huts” - houses from fallen and gnawed trees and branches, which form dams and cause the water level in reservoirs to rise. Whole families of beavers live here.

Beaver hunting officially opens in mid-October and lasts until the end of frost, like elk fishing, so in the summer hunters have the opportunity to notice the animals’ habitats - while picking berries, for example.

Thus, in the hot months, families of large rodents go to rookeries not far from the shore - such places are represented by small clearings with clearly crushed, disturbed grass cover.

As the weather gets colder, peeled areas of tree bark, broken branches and young shoots begin to appear near the huts. Beavers are especially attracted to aspen and alder, although other trees are also not ignored. If the tracks are fresh, congratulations, you have found an active beaver trail where animals appear frequently. It is easy to determine the freshness of the marks - the darker the scratches and breaks, the older they are.

The size of the hut also indicates the number of its inhabitants - the larger the dwelling, the more beavers live there, and the more likely your success in the hunt.

Crush Trap

Let's look at how to make a trap of this type. Its design is not complicated; its manufacturing requires available materials. The snare is suitable for hunting small animals. The design includes a weighted plate, a flat stone and a stop in the form of a stick or metal rod. One edge of the slab is raised, fixed with a stop, and a rod in the form of half arcs is installed nearby in a tense position.

The end is fixed between a pair of stakes, on the other side it is stretched and attached by means of a fishing line to the third peg with bait, located directly under the slab. The fastening is carried out in such a way that at the slightest touch the loop breaks off and the metal rod straightens. Another piece of fishing line is used to connect the tensioned part of the rod and the clamp holding the plate. The result is a huge mousetrap. The prey pulls the bait, while the rod unbends and carries the latch along with it. The animal remains pinned under a slab or stone.

Traces of crimes or how to understand that hares have taken over the area

The main signs of the presence of hares nearby:

• pulled carrots;
• eaten vegetables such as cabbage, lettuce or baby beans;
• damaged flowers and clover still at the growth stage;
• chewed bark of trees, most often apple or apricot trees, and broken young branches on the lower part of the trunk.

Hares gnaw the trunks and branches of bushes and trees, dig up roots, and eat plants. To understand that there was a hare on the site, you need to look at the cut on the stems of damaged plants: it will be very even.
Hares cause the greatest damage to plants in late autumn and winter. In summer they have enough food in fields and forest belts in the form of leaves, fruits and berries. In winter, it is more difficult to find food, and just at this time, summer residents, having finished the next season, leave for the city, and the garden remains at the complete disposal of the hares. Most often they appear at night.

How to make a bird trap?

This trap is quite difficult to build. During manufacturing you will need to drill several holes. To begin with, take a flat log two meters high. The ends of the workpiece are sharpened with an ax. A through hole is drilled near one of the peaks for a pole of suitable diameter. The free edge of the log is driven vertically into the ground. A pole approximately 200 millimeters long is placed in the prepared nest.

1. A fishing line or rope is taken and a regular loop is constructed.
2. The resulting knot is placed on top of the pole so that it hangs freely on the sides.
3. A knot is tied behind the loop.
4. The free edge of the fishing line is threaded through the hole in the log.
5. At the final stage, a suspended load is tied to the free end.

The trap, the photo of which is given above, works as follows: the bird sits on the pole, trying to eat the bait, the stick moves, and the knot penetrates the hole. The released weight pulls the line to the ground, tightening the loop on the game's legs.

Other options

Below are a few more examples of homemade traps:

1. The boar plane is made using an ordinary plastic pipe. Several holes are made in a workpiece 1.5 meters long and 100 mm in diameter, and the edges are covered with lids. The tube is fixed with a chain to a post dug into the ground. Bait in the form of cereal grains is poured into the inside of the tube. The essence of the snare is to attract the attention of the boar for an aimed shot from the gun.
2. An ordinary sable trap can be made from a two-millimeter metal plate, which is cut in the form of an arc. The second analogue is prepared by cutting teeth using a hacksaw or metal scissors. The spring mechanism is taken from the bicycle shock absorber. You can use a steel plate as a “watchman”.
3. A ground beaver trap is made in the form of a snare made of fishing line. They hang him from a tree and drive a stake into the ground. Under the influence of the tension force, the trigger mechanism is activated. This is a primitive method, suitable for hunting if there are no other devices at hand.

Step-by-step manufacturing instructions

a - trap in a charged state, b - trap with the mechanism released; 1 – spring, 2 – pressure, 3 – hook for bait, 4 – guard

1. Frame. After cutting the boards into pieces of the required length, we knock down 3 of them in the form of a narrow U-shaped box, open on both sides (without the top and ends for now). In the remaining board for the top we mark holes: a central one, about 3 cm in diameter, two side ones (almost at the front edge of the board, about 1 cm) and 2 very small ones, almost at the level of the central hole (for securing the spring elements - guard, pressure and hook). For the hook, a small longitudinal groove is cut in the board near the guard to prevent the trap from triggering spontaneously.
2. A crush is formed from the wire using pliers, the ends of which are inserted into small side holes.
3. In the same way, we fold the U-shaped guard and install it upside down (the bar goes under the board) with the rings facing up.
4. We insert wire staples into the rings to secure the hook and guard.
5. We install the hook and guard on the brackets.
6. We fix the finished, equipped top board.
7. On the back side we fasten with self-tapping screws a coarse mesh twisted from the same wire.

It is still advisable to paint the wooden parts (this way the frame will not rot in a wet forest, and if you choose a camouflage paint, it will also not be so noticeable). At this point - after the paint has completely dried and the smell has evaporated - the production of the bag can be considered complete.

Photo gallery: Spring bag design

Marten in a spring bag Attaching the bag mechanism Homemade box for the box Bag from the inside Finished bag close-up Finished bag before installation

Video: Making a box with your own hands

Advice: during manufacturing it is necessary to observe safety precautions - since the pressing force of a good spring reaches 10 kg, and if handled carelessly, especially when checking the functionality of the bag, you can break your fingers.

Passage trap

Before building this type of trap, it is necessary to thoroughly study the drawings of the factory model or its real prototype. At the first stage, the springs are prepared. To do this, take a wire with a cross-section of 4-5 mm, a length of 35-40 cm. This part must have a high strength index, not bend and resist the effects of weather conditions.

A pair of ring springs are made from it, the internal size of which is 20 millimeters in diameter. Blanks for the frame of the walk-through trap are prepared from the same material. As a result, they should fit inside each other. To do this, the rectangular elements are bent together and welded together. The result is a structure in the center of the axis of which there is a disk or a nut on both sides. If all manipulations are performed correctly, they will fit tightly after the mechanism is activated. Next, the trap is equipped with springs and a “guard” is attached. If the hunt is for squirrel or sable, the device can be hung on a pole.

Effective means for repelling hares

Ultrasound can be used to scare away hares. Modern equipment is accompanied by motion sensors. When triggered, they produce a sharp sound and a flashing light.

A dog can also scare animals. A good bonus is that it can scare away other wild animals too.

To get rid of rodents on your property, you should get a dog.

One of the most reliable options for scaring away hares is the installation of high-quality fencing. A mesh fence with small cells must be buried deep into the ground 10-15 cm around the perimeter of the site. Also around the perimeter of the garden you can plant plants that are unloved by hares, such as wormwood, onions, and sage. Sometimes sulfur, talc or red pepper are sprinkled.

There are many reasons why it may be necessary to trap hares. There are many different designs of varying complexity, and each of them serves its own specific purpose.

Have you ever managed to catch a hare? Tell us about your experience hunting long-eared.

Squirrel snare

How to make a trap for squirrels? A wooden stick two meters long is used as a base. The pole does not need to be cleared of bark and knots; the more natural it is, the better. Along the entire length at a distance of 45-50 centimeters, 3-4 loops of flexible, inconspicuous wire are attached. One end of the cord is wrapped loosely around the log so that the wire swings to the sides. The loop should be directed straight up. Wired versions hold their shape better and are stronger than their rope counterparts. To increase efficiency, they are masked with branches or foliage.

The perch is placed in the upper position on the tree trunk in the squirrels' habitat. These animals are lazy by nature; they would prefer not to jump to the ground, but to run up a tree along an inclined platform. As a result, the animal ends up inside the loop, which begins to tighten. The animal, frightened, jumps down and falls into a trap, remaining suspended under its own weight.

Jar as a trap

Jar as a trap
A glass jar is the most accessible and easiest way to catch a mouse.

To make it you need to take:

• liter jar;
• coin;
• thick wire;
• piece of sausage.

Step-by-step algorithm:

1. Measure the wire using a ruler; the length should slightly exceed the diameter of the can opening.
2. Put on the sausage, fold the edges.
3. Place the wire in the middle of the jar.
4. Place the mousetrap with the hole down and lean one side against the wall.
5. Place the end of a coin under the edge of the jar. The rodent will climb inside, try to pick the sausage, the coin will fall off, and the mouse will be covered with the jar.

Piercing model

The most dangerous traps for hunting. They are used only where the appearance of people and domestic animals is excluded. The principle of operation of traps is based on the impact of spikes made of bone or steel, tightly stretched along the animal trail. These versions are designed to kill large game, including roe deer and wild boar.

The trap is made of a springy metal rod or a flexible, strong pole. The tension level is adjusted to ensure sufficient force and sharpness of the blow. A pair of sharp spikes are fixed on the edge of the rod, the length of which depends on the type of intended prey.

Hunting without weapons: the simplest traps - how to make?

Since time immemorial, man has learned to get food. Before people learned to think, speak and communicate freely, convey emotions in words and dream, man already mastered the art of getting food to perfection. Of course, where can you think on an empty stomach? But when you’re full, that’s it!

One of the main ways to provide food was to set up all kinds of traps and traps for everything that crawled, walked, flew, swam and somehow moved. And if in those ancient times the ability to make and set such a trap was vitally important, now it is already something archaic and authentic, akin to medieval fencing or pottery.

But the skill of making a trap is still relevant in some cases, and this skill is taught and used to this day. Firstly, prospectors who hunt for the fur of animals, hunters living in areas very remote from civilization, and extracting the same fur and meat. This skill is also taught to pilots and astronauts, military personnel and scientists, wilderness survival specialists, and many others whose professions involve the risk of being left alone with the wild and the need to find food for themselves.

And for us, ordinary people, it would be useful to know, at least in theory, how to make a trap from improvised means. For what? You never know how many accidents and coincidences happen in life. An incorrectly planned expedition, a protracted trip - you accidentally fell behind the group, got lost, an unsuccessful parachute jump, an emergency landing of an airliner, whatever. As they say, the best weapon is knowledge. Therefore, below we will first tell you what traps and traps there are, and how to make them. So…

Time matters

Hunting is best in winter, especially in the middle. This is because it is quite difficult to detect animals in the summer, and in winter, hare tracks are clearly visible in the snow. This is also due to the fact that it is difficult for the animal to make its way through deep snowdrifts, so it prefers already trodden paths.

Winter is the best time to hunt hare

Trap - types and manufacturing methods

The easiest way to make a trap for small game is from fishing line, parachute lines, tendon fibers, etc. As a base, you can take wire, metal arcs, staples, rings, improvised parts, pieces of wood and sticks. To catch large ungulates, the trap will have to be made from reliable, durable materials, for example, from a parachute line and durable fabric, such as nylon, parachute fabric, canvas, etc. Let's look at several types of traps and the principles of their operation. Piercing trap

The most dangerous traps. Their design has been tested for centuries. They were used only in places where the presence of people and pets was excluded. The principle of operation of traps is based on the impact of bone or steel spikes, tightly stretched along the path of animals. They affect quite large animals. Including roe deer, deer, wild boar. The trap is made of a springy metal rod or a flexible but strong enough pole. The tension force must be sufficient to provide a sharp impact. 1-2 sharp spikes are rigidly attached to the end of the rod. Their length depends on the size of the intended prey.

The trap is set on a path where animals regularly walk. The free end is securely fixed between four pegs. The second end of the pole with spikes is stretched along the path in such a way that the animal, breaking the stretched rope, releases the stretched end. The trap acts like an extended spring.

Crushing Trap

They are very easy to make from scrap materials. For example, if hares, ferrets, rats and other small animals get into the habit of coming to the site. Take a fairly heavy slab, flat stone or log. One end is raised and fixed with any stop (stick, metal rod). A springy metal rod (stick) is installed side by side in a semi-arc in a tense state. One end of it is fixed between two pegs. And the second one is stretched and tied, for example with a fishing line, to the third peg with bait located directly under the slab. And so that at the slightest touch the loop jumps off and the metal rod straightens. Another piece of fishing line is used to tie the tensioned end of the rod and the stop that secures the plate. It turns out to be a giant mousetrap. The animal pulls the bait, the rod straightens and pulls the stick that fixes the plate behind it. And a slab or stone crushes the slow beast.

Bird trap

This trap is difficult to make, as drilling will be required during manufacturing. Take a flat log 2 meters high. Both ends are sharpened with an axe. Near the top of one of the ends, a hole is drilled through for a perch of the appropriate diameter. The free end of the log is driven or buried in the ground in a vertical position. A pole about 20 cm long is inserted into the drilled hole. Moreover, the pole should fit loosely in the hole, maintaining a small gap.

• Next, take a fishing line (rope, tendons) and make a regular loop.
• Then the loop is simply placed on top of the perch and hangs freely from the sides (therefore, in a strong wind, such a trap is unlikely to be made).
• A knot is tied behind the loop.
• The free end of the fishing line is pushed through the hole in the log. In this case, the knot is placed at the junction between the entrance of the perch and the hole in the log.
• Finally, a suspended weight is tied to the free end.

The principle of operation of the trap is as follows: the bird sits on a perch to eat the bait. This causes the pole to shift slightly, and the knot slips into the hole. The released weight pulls the line down, tightening the loop on the bird's legs.