Kishmish grapes: description, varieties, photos, planting and care

Name	Kishmish Alice in Wonderland	Berry color	Red
Selection	USA	Bunch weight	800-1200 g.
View	Canteen, Kishmish	Sugar content	Brix 19.4
Ripening time	Average	Bushes	Great growth force
Frost resistance	Average (-21°С)	Sustainability	Below average
Productivity	High	Presence of a bone	Absent (seedlessness class I), does not require the use of gibberellin

Origin story

The word "kishmish" comes from Persia. The literal translation is “dried grapes.” Central Asia is considered to be the birthplace of the variety, and the first mention of Kishmish is found in an ancient Uzbek fairy tale of the 13th century.

Kishmish, unlike other types of grapes, has very small seeds or none at all.

Such grapes owe their appearance to natural mutation. The winegrowers, noticing the results of natural “selection,” continued their experiments.

As a result, many varieties and varieties of Kishmish were obtained - white, pink, dark.

How to grow sultanas in the country?

The raisin grape appeared as a result of a natural mutation. The mutated species was repeatedly subjected to selection, as a result we received a variety with underdeveloped seeds. But sultanas have excellent pollinating properties, so they grow quickly in the garden. White raisin grapes with a sugar content above 20% are in particular demand among consumers.

Description

Kishmish unites a group of varieties with similar botanical features and characteristics:

Bunches. Dense or slightly loose. The berries are medium. The color of the fruit depends on the variety.
Berries. With a dense structure, lightweight. Does not contain seeds. There are hybrid varieties in which the seeds are very small and undeveloped, and are practically not felt.
Pulp. Very sweet, contains a lot of sugars - 18-25%. Kishmish is a grape ideal for the production of raisins. Sweet, seedless berries are what you need for this popular and valuable product.

Kishmish is a grape ideal for the production of raisins. Sweet, seedless berries are what you need for this popular and valuable product.

What are the benefits of quiche misch grapes?

it contains a lot of vitamins - A, E, PP, B9; there are ascorbic, citric, succinic acids; also contains minerals such as iron, sodium, and others; There are essential oils and flavonoids.

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Suitable region and climate

Kishmish has long left Central Asia - today this grape is grown in a wide variety of climates. There are varieties - early ripening and frost-resistant, which grow safely in regions with harsh winters and short summers.

But most of all, these grapes love sandy soils, rich in potassium and phosphorus, and light winds. Ideal conditions for growing sultanas are in Crimea.

The northern border of distribution stretches along the Kyiv-Saratov-Barnaul line. But it does not stop experienced gardeners - they manage to grow frost-resistant varieties of sultanas much further north.

Of course, sultanas in regions with frosty winters must be covered for the winter.

Popular varieties

Thanks to selection, many southern crops, previously unavailable to most regions of the Russian Federation, today grow safely in temperate climates, in Siberia and the Urals.

Let's look at the most popular varieties of sultanas that can withstand Russian frosts.

Radiant

Photo:

This is the only variety of sultanas included in the State Register today. “Radiant” is recommended for the Lower Volga and North Caucasus regions. The variety is mid-season, ripens in 125-130 days.

The brushes are cone-shaped, of medium size, weigh about 400 g. Individual specimens reach a weight of 1 kg and a length of 40 cm. The berries are elongated-ovoid in shape, with dense pink skin. The weight of the berries is 2.5-4 g.

There is a taste of nutmeg.

Pros:

very tasty berries, tasting score – 9 out of 10;
high yield - more than 120 centners per hectare;
resistance to gray rot, mildew and oidium;
The berries tolerate transportation well.

Minuses:

low frost resistance;
high yield turns into a disadvantage - grape branches often break under the weight of the grapes;
Due to high yields, berries may also become smaller and their sugar content reduced.

Moldavian

Photo:

Kishmish of medium ripening period. From the moment the buds open to the ripening of the berries, 155 days pass. The bushes are vigorous, with large tassels. The weight of the bunches is 600 g.

The fruits are round or oval, light purple with a waxy coating.

The weight of the berries is 4-6 g.

Pros:

pleasant, harmonious taste;
winter storage – 180 days;
transports well.

Minuses:

low resistance to mildew, gray mold and leaf roller;
frost resistance is satisfactory - the variety can withstand frosts down to minus 18°C.

White

Photo:

It takes 160-175 days for the fruit to fully ripen. This mid-late variety can be grown in the middle zone. The clusters are medium-sized, cylindrical.

Weight – up to 250 g. The fruits are small. Color – lemon or amber yellow. The skin is transparent and thin. The berries are sweet and sour.

Pros:

average frost resistance;
delicious berries;
no seeds.

Minuses:

low yields;
low resistance to diseases and pests;
poorly transported.

Due to the poor transportability of White sultanas, it is more often used for drying than for making wines and juices.

Rusbol

The grapes ripen in 115-125 days. It has large, conical clusters, weighing up to 1 kg. The berries are oval-shaped, white. Very large.

Weight – 8-10 g. Taste is pleasant. Rudimentary seeds are found in the pulp.

Pros:

high frost resistance – up to minus 25°C;
consistently high productivity;
resistance to fungal infections;
obtaining high-quality raisins;
attractive presentation;
tolerates transportation well;
Suitable for table use and for drying.

Minuses:

branches under the load of harvest can be overloaded and break - normalization is needed;
there are seeds in the berries;
In rainy weather, cracking of the berries occurs.

There is an improved version of Rusball - improved Rusball, also known as 13-3-6-2 Elf. It is distinguished by earlier ripening.

Century

Century Grapes represents the American group of sultanas. It was introduced in 1966, but is still very popular.

It ripens in 120-125 days, so it belongs to the mid-season varieties. The plant is vigorous, with conical, medium-dense clusters.

The weight of the bunches is 700-1200 g. The color of the berries is yellow-green. Weight – 6-9 g.

Pros:

large bunches;
sweet, homogeneous, slightly crunchy pulp;
balanced taste with nutmeg aroma;
resistance to cracking of berries;
a large number of bunches on the vine;
the berries are suitable for the production of raisins;
good frost resistance - down to minus 25°C.

The downside is that the shelf life is not good enough. During storage, the berries quickly acquire a brown tint and lose their visual appeal.

The “Centenary” variety is better known to gardeners as “Senteniel Seedlis”, which means “seedless century”.

Jupiter

This is one of the youngest varieties of sultanas. It was released in the USA. The berries ripen in 105-125 days. The bushes are medium-sized, frost-resistant, self-pollinating.

The clusters are cylindrical, with a “wing”, converging into a cone. The berries are large, oval, dark blue, with a nutmeg aroma.

The weight of the bunches is 200-500 g, the weight of berries is 4-7 g. The variety is used for drying and fresh eating.

Pros:

the thick skin prevents wasps from damaging the berries;
stable yield;
withstands 30 degree frosts;
good transportability.

Minuses:

the berries fall off if the bunches are not picked in time;
sometimes rudiments of seeds are found.

Zaporozhye

The variety was named after the city where it was bred. The clusters are cone-shaped, large, reaching a weight of up to 1.5 kg. The weight of the berries is 2-2.5 g. The shape is oval, the color is dark purple.

Ripens very quickly - in 110-120 days.

Pros:

consistently abundant fruiting;
unpretentious to care;
beautiful and tasty fruits;
self-pollinates, is a good pollinator for other varieties;
not afraid of mildew, rot and oidium;
withstands frosts down to minus 26°C.

Minuses:

small berries;
due to overload, branches may break off - large stepsons need to be pruned;
the berries are somewhat watery;
fruits gain sugar content late;
enhanced education for stepchildren;
berries are poorly stored;
the fruits are attacked by wasps - for some reason these insects love Zaporozhye raisins more than other varieties.

Hungarian 342

This is one of the most popular dessert varieties of sultanas. It belongs to the early ripening category; fruit ripening takes from 110 to 115 days. Plants are vigorous with large clusters.

The weight of the brushes is 300-500 g. The pulp is of a delicate consistency, the taste of nutmeg is felt. The color of the berries is light green, with a golden sheen. Weight – 2-3.5 g. Fruit shape – ovoid.

Pros:

frost resistance – down to minus 26°C;
fruits are ideal for drying;
increased resistance to fungal diseases;
The skin is thin, the fruits are easily digestible, including by children.

Minuses:

clusters that are not picked on time lose their commercial properties;
berries may have a rudimentary feature - seeds;
small clusters.

Veles

Early ripening variety. The ripening period is 95-105 days. A self-pollinating variety, but in the presence of pollinating varieties, the yield increases by 20%. The clusters are very large - weighing up to 3 kg.

The shape of the bunches is cylindrical or conical. The fruits are large, oval, light pink, with an amber tint. The berries appear transparent. Weight – 5 g.

The aroma contains nutmeg notes.

Pros:

very thin skin;
no seeds;
high productivity;
ripened bunches, remaining on the vine, do not lose their taste properties for up to 45 days;
pleasant taste, with a hint of nutmeg;
The berries, when ripe, do not fall off.

Minuses:

frost resistance is average - up to 21°C, the variety needs shelter;
the grapes are attacked by bees;
In rain and dampness, the berries deteriorate in presentation.

Kishmish instead of potatoes. An assistant professor grows 50 varieties of grapes at his dacha

GRODNO, September 7 – Sputnik, Inna Grishuk.

In Belarusian dachas, without any particular difficulties, you can grow sweet dessert grapes, which in appearance and taste are in no way inferior to bunches brought from hot countries. You just need to stock up on a little knowledge and follow simple rules of care.

Sergei Sobolev from Grodno, who has been developing the grape movement in the Grodno region for more than 15 years, is sure of this.

The Sputnik journalist was personally convinced of this. And residents of Grodno who want to grow not only pears and apples will be able to learn more about grapes at a specialized exhibition, which is being held at the Grodno Agrarian University on September 7 and 8.

Develops viticulture for 15 years

“In the early 2000s, when we started holding the first grape exhibitions, many had to be convinced that in Belarus, in principle, it was possible to grow sweet, juicy table grapes. People came, tried the berries and did not believe that they grew here,” recalls Sergei Sobolev, associate professor of the department of horticulture and fruit growing at the Grodno Agrarian University. He has been working on the grape topic for more than 20 years - in scientific works and in practice, as well as the development of viticulture in the Grodno region.

Associate Professor Sergei Sobolev has a grape paradise at his dacha; more than 50 varieties of sweet grapes grow here

Now the grape theme in the Grodno region is not as bad as it was 15 years ago. Visitors already know that it is indeed possible to grow sweet grapes in Belarus, so they come to exhibitions for information.

“Now like-minded people gather here. People come to the exhibition to learn about new varieties, exchange experiences, and learn the intricacies of caring for certain varieties. Some people want to find out how to start growing grapes, others want to choose a new variety,” the interlocutor adds.

You can even grow sweet sultanas in your dacha

According to him, there are also people in Grodno who have up to a hundred varieties of grapes growing on their plots, but out of modesty they prefer not to participate in exhibitions.

50 grape varieties at the dacha

Associate Professor Sobolev himself knows about grapes not only theoretically. He has been growing sweet berries for many years. The first vine at the dacha was planted by my parents in the early 90s. Now it has grown thickly near the entrance to the house. Sergei planted his first seedlings 10 years later, when he had already graduated from graduate school and written more than one scientific paper on grapes. At first there were two bushes, then - 10, now - more than 50 varieties, which are constantly updated.

Even in open ground you can get a good harvest, but tastier grapes will grow if you plant them in a greenhouse

The Sobolev family never buys grapes in the summer. He keeps so many varieties on the plot not only for the sake of experiments, but also to please the tastes of the whole family. Some of the berries are eaten, some are used for homemade wine.

At the Sobolev family’s dacha plot near Grodno, right from the gate you find yourself in a grape paradise - rows of wire are stretched along which the vines are woven, and green, golden, red and dark blue bunches are basking in the sun on the bushes. At least half of the territory here is devoted to grapes. The owner offers not only to watch, but also to try. Each berry, even the unripe one, tastes juicy, sweet, and seems more delicious than store-bought ones.

“It’s not interesting to grow sour grapes,” explains Sergei and adds that he himself doesn’t try many berries now, because he knows what they will taste like when they are truly ripe.

Sputnik’s interlocutor is ready to talk endlessly about each variety. Here are the “Kiev Green” variety, “Bryansk Pearl”, “Sweet Magdalsky”, “Shosta Gailyunasa”, “Russian Early”, “Brother of Delight”, “In Memory of Dombkovskaya” and others. He mainly grows varieties that have been proven over the years. He gets a good harvest every year - both in warm and cold summers.

In total, at least 300 grape varieties can grow in Belarus. New varieties appear every year. True, Sergey, he tries not to plant such fashionable new items at home. He prefers to wait a few years to find out how they take root in our country and what reviews there are about them.

There are no sour grapes here, and many bunches reach up to a kilogram

According to Sobolev, it is impossible to say which grapes are better. You need to taste it and determine. Then look at the features of caring for the vine, decide for what purpose the berry will be used. Shows dark sultanas of the “In Memory of Dombkowska” variety. It is seedless, but has a tough skin. But it is very unpretentious, resistant to weather conditions, wasps and bees do not touch it. Here is an unusual-looking variety, the clusters of which never turn yellow, and ripeness can only be determined by taste.

The specialist shows another grape, which in appearance is not as beautiful and not as large as those on the neighboring bushes.

“These are technical grapes that must be processed. For the table, the appearance of the bunch and the taste are important, but for this, the chemical composition and yield of the juice are important. Which one is better? Who knows, depending on what you grow it for,” explains the specialist.

As a delicacy, it is better to grow table covering varieties. As a rule, they have larger clusters and juicy, crispy flesh. You can get kilogram bunches from this one. True, such a vine will need to be hidden from frost for the winter. Uncovered varieties are considered less whimsical. Their berries are also tasty, but have a slight strawberry flavor, are fleshier, with rougher skin, and the clusters are smaller.

“When we had the first uncovered varieties, everyone ate them and praised them. Now that there are sweeter varieties with covering, no one eats them, or rather, the uncovered ones are eaten last,” says Sobolev.

Grows well outdoors, but better in a greenhouse

The expert recommends: it is better to grow sweet table grapes in a greenhouse rather than in open ground.

“Then the quality, the bunches, and the ripening time are completely different,” explains the specialist.

To get such large bunches, you need to ruthlessly trim off the excess shoots.

He says that gradually in the Grodno region there are more people who consciously begin to plant grapes. We are ready not to plant a bed of carrots or potatoes and give it to sweet berries. Sometimes men take a grapevine for testing and plant it in the greenhouse for the wife to experiment with.

“In this case, in a couple of years, the owners would rather remove the tomatoes from the greenhouse than give up the grapes,” the source adds.

Firstly, because grapes and tomatoes require different care, and secondly, because grapes grow quickly and occupy the territory of the greenhouse. Another important advantage is that while tomatoes in a greenhouse need to update the soil every year, grapes can grow in one place for more than 20 years until they get tired of it.

No more difficult to care for than apples and pears

I’m wondering: “Why then don’t summer residents plant grapes as actively as carrots and onions? Is he more difficult to care for?

“If you want to plant grapes and come to your dacha twice a month, then this crop is not for you. Even apples and pears require attention so that they bear a good harvest,” says Associate Professor Sobolev.

The Sobolev family has not bought grapes for many years - everyone has a favorite variety at their dacha

According to him, if we have already learned how to care for traditional crops, we are still getting used to grapes. It is not difficult to care for it, you just need to know what and how to do. The main thing is to tie up the vine and do the pruning and processing on time.

“The grapes are, so to speak, a little bad. It produces a lot of shoots and tassels that it cannot pull,” explains the specialist.

For example, if a bush has a resource of 5 kilograms of harvest, and in the spring it throws out 50 brushes, then each will be 100 grams. If you leave only 10 brushes, then each will already weigh 500 grams. You can learn about the characteristics of the care and behavior of each variety in the literature, on the Internet, or at grape exhibitions where experienced winegrowers gather.

When will local berries replace imported ones?

According to Sergei Sobolev, in recent years, Belarusian industrialists have begun to take a closer look at grapes as a promising berry on which they can make money.

Advantages and disadvantages

Kishmish is a popular group of varieties that, according to reviews from winegrowers and ordinary amateur gardeners, are valued for:

no seeds - the berries are convenient for eating fresh and for processing;
versatility - the fruits are used for making raisins, wines, juices;
sweetness and excellent taste;
relatively high frost resistance - up to minus 25°C;
good pollination abilities - all varieties of sultanas make excellent pollinators;
nutritional value and medicinal properties of berries - they support the heart muscle, normalize blood pressure;
high yield - 200-250 centners per 1 ha;
precociousness;
good rooting of cuttings and high-quality ripening of fruits even in northern regions;
preservation of presentation and taste during long-term transportation;
fruit resistance to cracking due to changes in temperature and humidity;
the external attractiveness of the plant - sultanas can be used for decorative purposes.

Flaws:

In some varieties, the fruits, when overripe, are prone to shedding - you have to vigilantly monitor their ripening in order to harvest on time.
Satisfactory resistance to gray rot, oidium and mildew - the bushes require regular treatment.

Landing

Site selection

Recommendations for choosing a site for planting Kishmish:

Good sunlight is necessary - these grapes will not grow in dense shade.
There should be no trees nearby - competition for water and nutrients will begin.
Drafts and gusty winds are excluded; grapes need peace and comfort.
The best option is a sunny area, facing south or southwest, flat or with a slight slope.
A good solution is to land at a structure blocking the north. Usually, grapes are planted near the stone walls of sheds, garages, etc. But this should not be done near the walls of a residential building - due to excessive watering, the foundation may settle.

Kishmish can grow on any soil, but it bears fruit best on loose and nutritious soils - they quickly warm up and promote the penetration of moisture and oxygen to the roots.

Similar properties are characteristic of loamy and light loamy soils, as well as chernozems on calcareous and chalk rock.

A suitable option is sandstones, but it should be borne in mind that they quickly lose water and nutrients.

Kishmish cannot be planted on soils located closer than 1 m to rocks, or in swampy and saline areas.

The sweetness of Kishmish depends on the amount of sun. Light shading is allowed only in the first years of growth.

These grapes are distinguished by vigorous bushes, so they can be easily brought into the zone of maximum illumination.

Soil preparation

The soil is prepared in advance. If the grapes are to be planted in the spring, then the site is prepared in the fall.

Proceed in the following order:

Clear the area of everything unnecessary - remove stones, weeds and their roots, level the surface.
Dig the area 65-70 cm deep. When digging, add humus - 3-4 kg per 1 square meter. m, and superphosphate - 100 g per 1 sq. m.
When digging, do not try to break up large lumps - during the winter they will accumulate a lot of moisture and in the spring they will fall apart.
If necessary , adjust the composition of the soil - if it is acidic, add 1-1.5 kg of phosphate rock. If the soil is heavy or clayey, add coarse sand, humus and crushed stones. Loose sandy soils require peat, manure or black soil.

Landing dates

Kishmish can be planted in both autumn and spring. In the homeland of the variety, and in the southern regions of Russia, grapes are usually planted in the fall - in October or November.

A month and a half before frost, the root system of the grapes has time to get used to the new conditions, and the seedling has time to get stronger and take root.

In regions with frosty winters, it is preferable to plant Kishmish in the spring - so that the seedlings are not damaged during sudden frosts. Spring planting is carried out before the onset of sap flow, when the plant is still dormant.

The optimal soil temperature is +10°C. Grapes should not be planted in colder soil - the roots may freeze. Typically, such conditions are created in April-May.

Seedlings are planted in the fall; the best time for planting cuttings is spring.

Selection of seedlings

All subsequent development of grapes and its productivity depend on the health of the planting material.

How to choose seedlings for planting:

Young planting material, 1-2 years old, tolerates transplantation best.
The root system must be powerful, strong, without defects or traces of disease. Let the seller cut off a piece of the root so that you can look at the cut - if it is light, then the roots are alive.
The stem should be smooth, without signs of infection. If there are spots, swellings and thickenings on the trunk, such a seedling is not suitable for planting.
The seedling must have at least one annual growth, and it must be quite thick, and there must be buds on it.

How to plant?

Before planting, the roots of the seedling are placed in water for several days so that it absorbs the required amount of moisture. The pits are prepared 2-3 weeks in advance, no later.

Planting sultanas seedlings:

Dig a hole 70-80 cm deep. The diameter should be approximately the same - 80-100 cm. This value is necessary for comfortable placement of the root system - it will develop well only in loose soil saturated with oxygen.
the fertile soil extracted when digging a hole with rotted manure (2-3 buckets), superphosphate (200-300 g) and potassium salt (100-200 g).
Drive a support into the bottom of the hole and lay drainage - broken brick or coarse gravel will do. The support is placed on the north side.
Pour the soil mixture into the hole and fill it with water to settle.
When planting time comes , make a hole in the loose soil mixture poured into the hole. Select its depth so that the planted seedling has only 2 eyes above the ground.
Place the seedling so that its roots are vertical.
Cover the roots with fertile soil and tamp down with your hands.
Water the seedling with warm water.
When the water is absorbed , sprinkle the soil around the seedling with mulch. You can read more about soil mulching here.

There should be a distance of 2.5-3 m between neighboring Kishmish seedlings, and the same between the rows.

The planting depth is influenced by the climatic conditions of the region and soil composition:

In the south, seedlings are placed so that their heel is at a distance of 50-55 cm from the surface of the earth.
In colder regions and on sandstones - at a distance of 60-65 cm.

Reproduction

The easiest way to propagate Alice in Wonderland is to use cuttings. After autumn pruning, any winegrower is left with a lot of mature vines that have been pruned and which can be perfectly rooted in the spring. Here you can read a detailed article about pruning, but in short.

At the end of October-beginning of November, cut cuttings from a mature vine into 3 buds;
Put them in the cellar for the winter; if the quantity is small, then in the refrigerator;
In March, take out the cuttings, renew the cuts with a sharp knife or pruning shears, soak them in water for a day, treat the lower part of the cuttings with Kornevin or Clonex gel (expensive, but very effective);
Pour 7-10 mm into the bath. water and place all the cuttings vertically in it, after about 2-3 weeks the roots will appear.
As soon as the roots reach a size of about 5-7 mm. - plant the cuttings in cups and then transplant them into open ground somewhere in late May - early June, when the threat of return frosts has passed.

Experienced winegrowers increase the yields of the variety they like by grafting; we also have a separate article about this method. The easiest way is to tilt the young vine to the ground, lightly pull the shoot with a wire at the point of contact with the ground, lightly scratch the lines on the surface of the vine with a knife, and sprinkle the place where the wire is tied with earth. In the future, you will only need to keep the soil moist.

Care

Caring for Kishmish involves a sequence of agrotechnical measures. The grapes are pruned, regularly watered, fertilized, and prepared for winter in the fall.

Kishmish care schedule:

Month, period	Works
May	The regrown vine is tied up and pruned.
June	Pinch the plant into 2 leaves, remove the shoots and apply fertilizer.
July	The following work is carried out: pinch the tops of young grapes; apply phosphorus-potassium fertilizers; carry out preventive spraying.
Early August	Produce: removal of growth; tying shoots and bunches; fertilizing with potassium fertilizers.
Late August or early September	Harvesting.
The entire growing season	Loosening, weeding - every 2-3 weeks.

Watering

Kishmish loves moisture, and if it experiences a lack of water, its roots will begin to grow deeper - up to 2-2.5 m.

At the same time, the vine will wither, the clusters will not gain weight, and the berries will not gain juiciness. If there is no rain, then water the Kishmish at least once a week.

Kishmish should be watered during the following periods:

beginning of the growing season;
a week before flowering;
after flowering;
during fruit filling.

2 weeks before harvesting, reduce the watering rate by half - so that the berries do not crack. In summer, on especially hot days, grapes are watered more often than usual - every 3-4 days.

The watering rate is calculated taking into account the properties of the soil; on average, 2-3 buckets of water are poured under one bush.

To ensure that moisture is absorbed evenly, it is recommended to give the plant water in two stages - morning and evening.

Feeding

Principles of feeding Kishmish: Fertilizing is moderate, combining organic matter with complex fertilizers. In spring and early summer, nitrogen is added to stimulate the growth of shoots, and organic matter.

In the second half of summer, phosphorus and potassium are added - they are necessary for the formation of large and sweet berries. Nitrogen is not added from the second half of summer. It is advisable to apply liquid fertilizers during watering.

Fertilizer application rates and periods:

Period	Fertilizer application rates (dosage is calculated for 10 liters of water)
Early spring	For one bush make a solution: superphosphate – 20 g; ammonium nitrate – 10 g; potassium salt – 5 g. Instead of mineral fertilizer, you can add organic fertilizer - a solution of manure.
Before flowering (about a week)	nitrophoska – 65 g; boric acid – 5 g. Or they add organic matter - 2 kg of manure per bucket of water.
Mid July	superphosphate – 20 g; potash fertilizers – 20 g.
Mid October	Potash and phosphate fertilizers – 25 g each.

Foliar treatment

Foliar feeding - spraying nutrients on top of the leaves. This method is used if root fertilizing has no effect, or to achieve maximum yield.

This method requires caution - it is important not to burn the leaves and spoil the berries. The first foliar feeding is carried out a week before flowering. It is used regardless of whether root feeding has been carried out.

To save time, foliar feeding is mixed with a fungicide and insecticide.

Composition No. 1 of foliar feeding:

40 g urea; 20 g citric acid;
15 g boric acid;
1 g of iron sulfate.

Composition No. 2:

0.2% ammonium sulfate;
0.05% potassium permanganate;
0.6% potassium sulfate;
0.5% urea.

If you don’t want to prepare solutions, buy ready-made ones - “Clean Sheet”, “Novofert”, “Ovary” and others. It is also recommended to use Gibberellin, a growth stimulator for brushes and berries, for spraying.

Spray grapes on a cloudy day or in the evening. You can add glycerin or vegetable oil to the solution - 30 g.

This will slow down the evaporation of the solution. The second feeding is carried out after flowering, when the grapes are sprayed against pests. From August, foliar feeding is stopped so that the growth of young shoots does not become more active.

Trimming

During the first 3-4 years, the grape bush is given shape - this is necessary for ease of care and high yield.

Pruning Kishmish, regardless of planting time, begins in the spring. Usually they use a cordon uniform with one or two sleeves, usually facing one direction.

Principles of pruning Kishmish:

To prevent the bush from experiencing overload, no more than 10-12 vines are left for each meter of height.
Kishmish has vigorous bushes, so long pruning is used for it - about 8-12 eyes are left on the vine.
The first 4-5 buds on the vine are sterile - this is a feature of Kishmish and other grape varieties from Central Asia.
Excess and weak shoots are cut off. No more than two brushes are left on each shoot.

Preparing for winter

In the southern regions, there is no need to cover Kishmish plantings, but, starting from central Russia, insulation for the winter is a mandatory measure.

The procedure for preparing Kishmish for winter:

Weeding between rows - for better preservation of moisture and destruction of weeds. The last one is pre-winter feeding (phosphorus-potassium fertilizers are applied).
Escape shelter. Having untied them, they are laid on the ground, pinned with staples. Non-woven material is placed on top of the shoots, and then sprinkled with a layer of earth. Sometimes they even build plywood boxes on top.

What is the minimum distance between grape bushes?

Strongly growing varieties on fertile soils are planted at a distance of at least three meters from each other, and the row spacing is 4-5 meters. For low-growing varieties, the distance between the bushes can be left 2.5 meters or even 2.3, this will be quite enough for them.

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Diseases and pests

Productivity is lost due to diseases and pests. To prevent losses, timely prevention is needed.

Symptoms and measures to combat diseases and pests of Kishmish:

White rot

Initially, the ridge and stalk of the grapes are affected. Then the fungus spreads to individual berries, and then covers the entire bunch. The berries become lethargic, turn red and fall off.

Diseased vines become covered with round spots, edged with a black rim. In the affected areas, the bark is soaked. In damp weather, you can see the spores of the pathogen - dirty white dots.

They form on affected berries and areas of the vine. The problem most often appears after sunburn, hail, or mildew.

The disease is treatable; measures to combat it include spraying with a 4% solution of Bordeaux mixture, 5% Captan solution or 1% TMTD suspension.

Prevention:

fulfillment of agricultural technology conditions;
The pruning regime must be especially strictly observed so that the bushes are well ventilated and illuminated by the sun.

Gray rot

The disease can appear on berries at the very beginning of their formation. But the most affected are grapes that have begun to ripen or have already begun to ripen. The berries become covered with brown spots, the skin cracks on them, and a gray fluffy coating appears - sporulation of the fungus.

If the autumn is dry, then the fungus causes the berries to raisin, the so-called noble rot. Brushes affected by gray rot are not suitable for transportation and storage.

Unfortunately, there is no effective treatment for the fungus.

Therefore, all efforts should be directed towards preventive measures:

timely breaking off and tying up shoots;
thinning the leaf mass so that the berries have greater access to sunlight;
At the first sign of damage, the entire crop should be immediately removed.

Rubella

The disease primarily affects the leaves. At the end of April - beginning of May, light spots appear on them, which then spread between the veins. On varieties with light berries, they become brown with a narrow waxy-yellow border.

On dark varieties, the color of the spots is bright burgundy with a yellow-green border. Affected leaves dry out and fall off prematurely. The consequence of rubella can be inhibition of the growth of shoots, inflorescences and ovaries.

The taste of the grapes may not change for the better.

If rubella appeared last season, then in the spring, as soon as the leaves begin to appear, spray 2–3 times with 1.5–2% Bordeaux mixture or 0.5% Zineb solution. The interval between procedures is 5 – 10 days.

Further treatment is the same as against mildew - 1% solution of Bordeaux mixture. Timely fertilizing and proper soil care will help reduce the risk of disease.

leaf roller

The leaf roller caterpillar damages buds, ovaries and berries. One caterpillar can destroy up to 50 buds. If the berries are damaged, then harmful microorganisms develop on them, leading to rotting, first of individual fruits, and then of the entire cluster.

For butterflies, baits are made in the form of containers hung among the bushes at a height of 70 cm from the soil surface.

Wine dregs, diluted 1/3 with water, are poured into the trap. Treatment with Vofatox (2.5 - 3 g of the drug per 1 m²) or Methylethylthiophos (15 g per 10 l of water) is used against caterpillars.

For the purpose of prevention, immediately after removing the winter shelter, you should peel off the old bark in which the pupae overwinter and burn it.

Wasps

These insects, attracted by the sweet taste of the berries, spoil their skin, making the grapes unable to be stored.

In addition, damaged berries undergo a rotting process, which extends to whole fruits. You can fight wasps in different ways.

This includes the use of pesticides, special traps and poisoned baits, and the destruction of nests. But if you consider wasps to be beneficial insects, then measures to combat them may not be so radical.

You can, for example, plant plants around the grape bushes whose smell is not to the taste of wasps - mint, lemon balm, basil. And in addition to this, put special protective bags made of tulle on the ripening bunches of grapes.