ᐉ Nematode pest - control, types of nematodes and preparations for the pest

Small nematode worms are the most dangerous pests of garden and vegetable crops. There are thousands of species of them, they are extremely tenacious and voracious, they damage everything from stems to roots, and are resistant to traditional pesticides. Is there really no way to combat nematodes?

There are such means. And in order to understand how best to get rid of nematodes in the soil, let’s talk in more detail - what kind of “beast” this pest is, why it is so difficult to protect plants from nematodes, and what methods are still the most effective in combating it.

Description and photo

Nematodes are microscopic worms. Parasites live and develop in a humid environment, harm the development of plants, and can lead to the death of both garden and indoor crops.

Parasites under a microscope

There are about 30 species of pests in total. They feed on plant sap. The size of the worms is up to 2 mm. There are three types of nematodes, depending on where the parasites live:

The leaves are beige in color, up to 1 mm long, thread-like in shape.
Stem, also thread-like, up to 1 mm.
Root or gall, about 2 mm long, damage the roots on which thickenings (galls) form.

Description of the pest

Herbivorous nematodes have a small thread-like and rounded body up to 2 mm long , narrowed at both ends. Due to the small size of the pest, it is difficult to notice in the early stages.

The color of nematodes can be white or light yellow. The body is covered with a ringed cuticle, under which there are longitudinal muscles. Special muscles ensure the functioning of the reproductive and digestive organs.

The pest has a developed nervous, digestive, excretory system, and reproductive organs, but lacks blood supply and respiration. The digestive system is continuous - it begins with the oral cavity, which has a complex structure, passes into the esophagus, then into the midgut and ends at the posterior end of the body.

All herbivorous nematodes have a movable spine in their mouth - a piercing stylet organ. Worms use it to pierce plant cells and suck out the juices. Enzymes, amino acids, urea and other substances are released into the tissue through the thorn. They block the functioning of all organs in the plant.

The nervous system consists of a nerve ring located near the pharynx and longitudinal nerves. Thanks to the setae on the body, worms can touch; amphid receptors are responsible for the sense of smell.

Herbivorous nematodes are heterosexual , females are larger in size than males. They lay eggs from which larvae emerge. Before adulthood, there are 4 stages of development, accompanied by molting. Depending on the species and living conditions, the duration of each larval stage lasts 2–12 days.

The optimal temperature for the appearance of larvae is 15-16°C, for further development 18–24°C. 40 days after the onset of sexual maturity, females can lay eggs.

Signs of plant damage

Signs of leaf (strawberry) nematode infection are as follows:

Brown spots appear on the leaves and buds, they curl and lose their natural color.
The petioles swell and plant growth stops.
Spots appear on the bottom of the leaves, which subsequently turn red, the leaves become thinner, the yield decreases, and the plants eventually die. Strawberries, carnations, aster, and chrysanthemums are more susceptible to leaf nematode disease.

Infection with a stem nematode leads to cessation of growth, thickening of stems, loss of color in stems and buds, and eventual death of the plant.

Onions, garlic, cucumbers, parsley, tomatoes, and radishes are at risk.

Crops affected by root nematode weaken and wither. The roots below the thickenings die. Thin roots and root beards appear.

Description of external signs of nematodes

Nematodes are worms one to two millimeters long.
Female and male individuals differ in appearance from each other in their size. The first ones are slightly longer. The body shape of worms can be round, oval or oblong, resembling threads. Nematodes in the soil (the fight against them can be very diverse) are white and beige. Worms have a well-developed muscular system and a protective shell that is highly dense. The head of the worms is very small and has movable lips, with the help of which the pests feed.

Nematodes reproduce by laying white eggs, which can be round or oval in shape. The larvae do not look like adults; they have a white head and a transparent body.

Nematodes, photos of which look very disgusting in the soil, have a well-developed sense of touch, due to the fact that their body is completely covered with tentacles. Pests prefer dry and warm microclimates, which are ideal for breeding and laying eggs.

There are three types of plant nematodes:

leafy;
stem;
root.

They affect not only garden and garden plants, but also indoor plants. Their principle of life is the same - they feed on plant juices. However, they differ somewhat in body shape, size, and habitat.

The leaf nematode has a thread-like body shape. Nematode worms reach 1 mm in length. They have a beige color. They are located on the foliage, where they penetrate through damage to the leaf blade or through pores on their lower parts.

shoots stop growing;
the stems thicken and lose color;
the buds turn pale and dry out;
Over time, the plant dries out and dies.

Despite the fact that pests love moisture, stem worms can maintain vital activity, even staying for a long time on dry leaves and plant scales. They spread through infected runners, bulbs, tubers, cuttings, and much less frequently through seeds or contaminated soil.

Did you know? The lifespan of worms can reach up to 2 years.

Plants affected by soil nematodes gradually wither, weaken, and stop growing. The leaves are curling. The roots located below the galls stop developing and die. At the same time, the root beard (thin thread-like roots) begins to grow abundantly. Such roots do not contribute to the growth of the crop, but only take away nutrients from them.

Important! It is important to distinguish nematode galls from natural thickenings on the roots of some plants that retain moisture. The latter are white in color, while the galls are yellow or brown.

Root-knot nematodes spread through contaminated soil, remains of roots, seeds, bulbs, equipment, and from nearby plants. Chrysanthemums, ficuses, dracaenas, begonias, lilies, and aloe are most susceptible to these pests.

These parasites belong to the class of roundworms. There are a huge number of species in the world, some parasitize plants, others parasitize the human or animal body. The size of the parasites depends on their species; it is known that there is a nematode with a body length of about eight meters. But soil ones rarely grow above five millimeters in length. We will look at these plant-destroying nematodes in this post.

Worms from the roots suck out all the nutritious juice. But the health of the culture depends on the roots. After this attack, greens often suffer from various diseases, as fungi and viruses penetrate them through damaged parts of the roots.

A sign of infection by these parasites is not only curled leaves, but also round growths on the roots. They are usually yellow or brown in color; in parallel with them, the entire lower part of the crop is overgrown with thin roots that quickly die. True, there are plants that naturally have the same thickenings on the roots, but they do not contain parasites, but the necessary nutrients and a supply of moisture in case of drought. These healthy roots differ from diseased ones in that they have a uniform color everywhere.

Nematodes that attack plants exist in three genera:

Leafy - They are usually no more than 1 millimeter, move very quickly, spreading destructive viruses, and live in leaves. Strawberries and chrysanthemums suffer most often. The presence of these worms in the culture is indicated by leaves covered with dry spots in a chaotic pattern. The parasite usually waits out the winter in fallen leaves, and sometimes in the ground.
Stem - Their body is thread-like, does not exceed 1 millimeter. They develop harmful activity in stems and buds, releasing toxic substances that clog blood vessels, thereby thickening their tissues. Most often, vegetable plants suffer from them: tomatoes, onions, radishes, garlic, cucumber. They are simply pulled out and burned away from the site.
Rootworms - These are the most common worms, growing up to 2 millimeters. They damage only the roots of small plants, leaving behind swellings on them. After their attack, the upper part of the crop begins to dry out, despite careful care and watering. Unfortunately, the disease can only be detected by pulling out the greens along with the root system. It is no longer possible to save him. Ornamental plants suffer the most: dracaena, lily, ficus, cyclamen.

Means of struggle

Nematodes are difficult to control. Today there are several ways to get rid of parasites:

chemical,
biological,
thermal method,
traditional methods.

Chemicals

Unfortunately, the chemical method of getting rid of parasites is the most effective. A serious effect can only be achieved by using nematicides, chemicals that destroy nematodes parasitizing plants. Some poison pests through the respiratory system. These are carbathion, chloropicrin, nemagon and methyl bromide. Others penetrate the skin, such as methyl mercaptophos, karbofos, phosphamide, lindane.

Thinning roots are a clear sign of infection

Some chemicals have a complex effect, for example, chloropicrin. They lead to complete sterilization of the soil. After treatment, planting can be done only after a few weeks, and after applying some, only for the next season.

The chemical control method involves spraying garden crops with chemicals to kill leaf and stem nematodes. To destroy the root, you need to spill the soil with a solution of the drug. Spraying and spilling should be done in dry, sunny, windless weather, preferably before noon or after 17:00 in the evening. The procedure must be performed several times, since the poisons act exclusively on adult worms.

The most effective chemical preparations are considered to be “Dimethoate”, “Bi-58”, “Rogor”, “Vidat”, “Nemafos”.

Chemicals must be used in strict accordance with the instructions, using protective equipment.

Biological drugs

Nematophagin is considered an effective biological pest control agent. The advantage is that it does not harm plants and animals. The active substance is obtained from natural components; it does not accumulate in the ground.

Thermal method

The thermal method involves removing the plant from the ground, cutting off particularly damaged roots and lowering them into water heated to 50 degrees for 5 minutes. At temperatures from 45 to 50 degrees, the time the roots spend in water increases by 10-15 minutes.

Traditional methods

The main and, perhaps, the only folk remedy that gives results is pouring boiling water over the soil before planting. A significant number of pests die after this procedure, but the soil must be shed to a depth of 20 cm. It is advisable to cover the soil with film after this so that it cools more slowly. This method does not guarantee the complete destruction of worms, since some of them may be located deeper than the strait and survive.

Control measures

It is very difficult to get rid of this pest, and crops that are heavily infested with it are almost always thrown out or burned outside the dacha area. If the plant is slightly infected, it can still be saved. And at the same time, they carefully treat the contaminated soil. If the number of pests is small, then they start with folk recipes; in more severe cases, they move on to chemicals.

Mass reproduction of the pest begins when the air temperature remains at +20 o C with a humidity of at least 50%. If the air temperature and humidity conditions are the same all summer, then about 3 generations of the nematode will grow.

Even if nothing grows on this land, she will still be able to live in it for several more years. Many gardeners, in order to avoid the massive spread of this pest, use crop rotation every three to four years. For example, a pest that fed on carrots last season will not be able to feed on onions in the same bed this season, since it is accustomed to that food. Then he dies.

Folk recipes

Traditional recipes are usually used only in mild cases of infection.

Trimming the roots - If there are very few growths, then they can be trimmed, but you should not get too carried away with this, since the plant does not always have time to grow new roots. The edges are treated with a weak solution of potassium permanganate.
Hot water - The water should not be higher than 50 o C, otherwise the culture may cook. Infected greenery is pulled out along with the root system, washed to remove any adhering soil, and then briefly placed in a bucket of hot water. 20 minutes is enough for all adult parasites to die. But only hotter water can destroy eggs. In this case, you can take a chance and increase the water temperature to 60 o C.
Urea - Add 500 grams of urea and a kilogram of crushed potato sprouts to a ten-liter bucket of water. After that, the infected beds are watered with this product.
Marigolds - A tincture is made from them that successfully gets rid of pests. About a kilogram of dried raw materials is soaked in a ten-liter bucket of liquid for about two days, then passed through a sieve and watered the soil.
Poisonous hogweed - A tincture is also made from it, but the entire procedure is done with rubber protective gloves, since the juice of this plant is poisonous. About a kilogram of this herb is soaked in a bucket of liquid for exactly one day, after which it is filtered and watered.
Calendula officinalis - This remedy is good because it can be used for both prevention and treatment purposes. You can water the soil with this tincture every week. To do this, stir ten tablespoons of dried herbs into a ten-liter bucket of liquid. Leave for exactly one day, then water. You don't have to strain it.
Onion - To make the tincture, pour a pound of chopped onion into a bucket of liquid. The next day, pass through a sieve and water the beds every week. Three procedures are enough.

Chemicals

If folk remedies do not help get rid of the scourge, then you can use chemicals. The most effective and popular are:

Vidat.
Methyl bromide.
Dimethoate
Karbofos.
Carbation.
Lindan.
Methyl mercaptophos.
Nemagon.
Nemafos.
Rogor.
Phosphamide.
Chloropicrin.

They are used strictly according to the instructions, some of them can be reused after a few days. Some drugs can be used as a spray. This procedure is performed only in the evening and in calm weather. Unfortunately, most of these drugs cannot kill eggs due to their very tough shell. Therefore, it is recommended to repeat the treatment after some time, when the larvae hatch from the eggs.

Green manure

If you plant the entire soil with green manure, for example: beans, peas, beans, marigolds, clover, then they will be able to destroy about 85% of pests in a season. They need to be planted so that the distance between them is at least 4 centimeters.

Before this, the entire soil is cleared of plantings and weeds, and watered with the chemical drug “Narcissus”. After which green manure is sown. And the soil is covered with compost. As soon as the grass dries out, a new portion of green manure is replanted.

Next season, only nematode-resistant crops are grown in this place, since a certain percentage of parasites still remain in the soil. It is not recommended to grow cucumbers in such soil for about five years, as they are very easily captured by pests.

Vegetables grown in contaminated soil are not recommended to be propagated. And also they are not stored next to healthy ones. If possible, they are simply burned. For planting, specialized gardening stores purchase new planting material that is guaranteed not to be contaminated.

Prevention of infection

Preventive measures include the following:

After harvesting, the area must be thoroughly cleaned of plant debris, grass and leaves. Nematodes are perfectly preserved and overwinter in the grass.
Timely weeding and loosening.
Removing damaged and yellowed leaves and other parts of plants.
Autumn digging of the site.
There is no need to over-moisten the soil; nematodes love moisture.

On the left are infected roots, on the right are healthy roots.

It is also necessary to comply with agrotechnical requirements, which are in many ways preventive:

It is necessary to alternate planting of different crops and observe crop rotation.
Carefully approach the choice of varieties, choose nematode-resistant ones, since now there is a choice.
Carefully select only healthy seeds, heat treat the tubers and bulbs before planting for up to 15 minutes at a temperature of 45 to 50 degrees.
If possible, disinfect the soil with boiling water before planting.
Weed and loosen regularly.
Regularly checking plants for infection and removing diseased specimens.

What danger do nematodes pose to plants?

Before discussing how to get rid of nematodes in the soil, it is necessary to talk about the danger that these pests pose to flora. By devouring plants, the worms, along with the juice, extract all the nutritional elements from them. In addition, the waste products of these pests are very strong toxins that poison plants, which lose their normal shape and color, stop growing and developing, and also produce significantly less yield.

The whole difficulty of fighting nematodes is that their presence is very difficult to detect in a timely manner. This is impossible to do with the naked eye due to its too small size. Leaf and stem worms can only be seen through a magnifying glass, but root worms live in the ground, so you will have to dig up the plant altogether. In this case, the root system will be covered with brown compactions.

It is worth noting that due to the toxic substances secreted by nematodes, burns and irritations may appear on the skin, so when fighting worms you should definitely use long sleeves and gloves.

How to treat plants against nematodes and get rid of the pest

Most crop pests can be destroyed using a variety of chemicals. But when fighting a type of insect such as a nematode, treatment with traditional pesticides is not effective. How to deal with such a pest and what preventive measures can be taken, we will consider in this article.

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Stem nematode

Stem nematodes in the soil of indoor plants are a very common phenomenon that many gardeners encounter. This type of worm grows up to one millimeter in length. It affects the stems, leaves and flowers of the plant, reaching them through the rhizome.

The presence of these pests can be recognized by the following manifestations:

plant growth slows down;
the thickness of the stem increases, the color of which fades;
the blossoming buds dry out and fall off very quickly;
in the absence of any pest control measures, the flower dies.

Description of nematodes: harmfulness

A nematode is a plant pest, which is a roundworm no more than 2 mm long. There are more than 24 thousand of their species, some of them infect animals and humans.

All types of such worms are distinguished by extreme vitality and gluttony. Plant nematodes can damage entire garden crops - from roots to stems. Infection of a garden, bed or flower bed leads to a reduction in germination, the formation of many deformations, and a severe weakening of development and flowering. These dangerous pests help reduce disease resistance, and when young plants are infected, they often die.

Microscopic worms perfectly adapt to various unfavorable factors - high and low temperatures, high humidity, drought, and peculiarities of the chemical composition of the soil.

In winter, nematodes go to the depth of soil freezing. With the onset of spring, they move closer to the surface and begin to actively search for food, which includes not only grass with leaves, but also insect larvae.

Conditions favorable for the life of nematodes are:

Wet soil.
Temperature 20-25 ͦС.

The danger of infection also lies in the fact that nematodes carry phytopathogenic organisms and viruses that penetrate through damage in the leaves, stems or roots of plants.

The parasite can be identified by the following signs:

Formation of brown spots on buds and leaves.
Curling of leaves, loss of their natural color.
Swelling of petioles.
Stopping plant growth.
Formation of spots on the bottom of the leaves.
Marked reduction in yield.
Formation of knots and compactions on the roots.

Since pests are microscopic in size, they cannot be detected with the naked eye. If you take a magnifying glass and look closely at an infected plant, you can see tiny worms on the buds, stems or soil. If a nematode is detected on a houseplant, it is better to quickly remove it from other, healthy flowers.

How dangerous is a nematode?

In the process of its active life, it penetrates into the roots or vegetative mass, violates the integrity of the plant, causes rot, infection of the roots and vegetative mass with viruses, fungal infections, and bacteria.

In principle, it is possible to understand that a nematode has attacked the roots if the entire plant that has begun to wither is pulled out of the soil and its root system is carefully examined. When infected with a nematode, you can see a large number of branches on the roots, as if the plant was trying to find a way around it, getting rid of the pest.

In this case, the smallest roots will most likely look rotten. In addition, on the roots, if these are not legumes, you can see galls, these are literally accumulations of nematodes, cysts with eggs, as well as points and swellings, various kinds of ulcers - all this is deadly for both the root and the entire plant as a whole.

Types of nematodes

Herbivorous parasites are classified into three forms:

Leaf nematode

This species is a colorless parasitic worm, the length of which does not exceed 1 mm. Leaf nematodes are very mobile; when leaves are infected, yellow spots form on their surface, which then turn brown. Infected leaves become thinner, and over time the plant becomes deformed and dries out. The worm readily eats ornamental crops, chrysanthemums, and strawberries.

Stem

It parasitizes leaves, flowers and stems, causing them to change color and thicken tissues. Stem nematodes are up to 1.7 mm long. The first sign of damage by this type of worm is deformation and cracking of stems, wrinkling of leaves, loosening of bulbs in bulbous plants. Such worms most often damage begonias, cucumbers, garlic, onions, tomatoes, tulips, and daffodils.

Root (gall)

The location of gall worms is the underground part of plants. When settling in the roots, the worm leads to the formation of deformations and growths (galls) on their surface, which prevent the roots from absorbing sufficient amounts of water and nutrients. The pest is most often found on eggplants, cucumbers, tomatoes, beets, potatoes, lilies, and ficus.

Pest types

There are several classifications. Depending on the affected part of the plant, the following nematodes are distinguished.

Gallovaya

Galls are yellow or brown knobby growths. One such ball can contain up to 1,000 eggs. The second name is root nematode. Latin name: Meloidogyne. The largest species. The male is worm-shaped, the female is pear-shaped. Lives in the ground. Affects the nervous system of the plant. Most often it settles on the roots of flowers (carnations, roses, alpine violets, begonias, primroses), tuberous and bulbous crops (potatoes, garlic, onions).

Leafy

One leaf can contain over 5,000 thread-like, very mobile worms. One individual is capable of giving birth to 10 generations per season. It mainly affects flowers: chrysanthemums, daffodils, phlox, begonias, orchids. Doesn't shy away from strawberries and tomatoes. Blisters appear on the leaf blades on top and spots on the bottom. They fold into an accordion or curl, then turn yellow and fall off. A large number of strongly branching lateral buds are formed, which remain underdeveloped.

Stem

It affects stems, bulbs and tubers, causing severe deformation. Most often it destroys crops of onions, garlic, potatoes, tomatoes, beets, parsnips, parsley, cucumbers, radishes and grain crops. It often destroys flowers: hyacinths, phlox, begonias, tulips, carnations.

Depending on which plant the parasites settle on, several more types of nematodes are distinguished.

Stem onion nematode

Affects onions and garlic. The bulbs become loose, cracks appear, and the bottom falls off. Not suitable for storage. With an advanced form of nematosis, all seedlings die.

Strawberry stem nematode

Found on strawberries. It affects the plant gradually. The leaves become smaller and deformed, some turn into awl-shaped outgrowths. Flower rosettes do not fully develop and cannot open entirely. The mustache is shortened.

Golden potato nematode

Affects potatoes. Reduces yield by 85%. When the tubers ripen, they emit an odor that attracts nematodes. To avoid such a misfortune, about 10 days before planting potatoes, the juice is specially squeezed out of the tubers and the arable land is watered with it. The cysts break open and the parasites rise to the surface, where they die of starvation.

Beet nematode

The name of the disease is beet fatigue (beet fatigue) of the soil, which, when infected, becomes depleted and experiences a deficiency of potassium salts. The leaves turn brown, and the root vegetables themselves become smaller, become 2 times less in weight, and lose their sugar content by almost 6%.

Signs of defeat

Nematodes reproduce extremely quickly, so the first symptoms appear within a few days after infection. You can tell that an area is infested with worms by the following signs:

The plant stops growing and a significant part of the root system dies off.
There is tissue growth on the roots and the formation of nodular extensions on their surface. The thickened parts acquire a watery consistency, which leads to their increased fragility. Small worms are found in the cracks of such thickenings.
Absence of root hairs on the roots.
The appearance of large cracks in plants with succulent stems (succulents, cacti).
Scanty flowering or its complete cessation.
Underdevelopment of plants, low growth, gradual wilting due to damage to the roots.
Discoloration of the leaf plate, which over time acquires a brown tint.

Not all plants die immediately after infection with a nematode. Some crops get sick, but maintain their vital activity for several years. Worms can carry bacterial, viral and fungal diseases, which can significantly affect the condition of already weakened crops.

The cause of the formation of galls on the roots can be not only a nematode, but also some bacterial infections. To make a correct diagnosis, it is necessary to carefully examine the roots for the presence or absence of worms.

Nematode biology

Nematodes are, according to some classifications, peculiar roundworms, and according to others, gastrociliary worms. More than three tens of thousands of species of these creatures have been described, but most likely there are much more. The overwhelming species of nematodes are parasites of a wide variety of plants; they can also live peacefully in the bodies of fish, humans and animals. Nematodes are far from harmless creatures; they cause a wide variety of diseases in humans, animals and plants.

The length of the nematode body can vary greatly (from 80 microns to several meters, if we mean certain types of parasites). Nematodes have a specific spindle-shaped shape, narrowed at the ends. The body is round in diameter.

Here we will talk about nematodes that parasitize plants, and we will try, in the light of modern science, to fight them so quickly that already in the next season after infection, something can be planted or sown on the site.

Let's start with the types of nematodes that plague plants. It is usually very difficult to understand that your area is infected with a nematode; there are few signs of its activity. For example, you see that seedlings are slow in development or there is almost no growth and development of seedlings, or flowering is weak, or the death of plants at a young age is suspiciously significant, or the crop is dying en masse.

All this can be either a sign of a nematode or a sign of other diseases or pests. The cause of unhealthy plants may also be a simple lack of one or a group of elements in the soil. Therefore, if exactly the same picture is observed next year, then we advise you to take a soil sample, dig it into a bag with a shovel and take it to the laboratory, where they will tell you whether it is a nematode or something else, otherwise you will continue to treat the plants for one thing or another , then from another, without getting the desired effect and simply massively multiplying the worst enemy.

Nematode under a microscope. Håkan Kvarnström

Reasons for appearance

The best conditions for the life activity of the parasites in question are moderate humidity, air temperature in the range of 20-30 ͦC, soil acidity level 5.5-5.8. However, worms do not appear on plants only due to favorable conditions. The main reason is always infection.

So, you can transfer parasites to your garden on shoes or the wheels of a vehicle. The larvae can be carried by the wind from neighboring areas, with diseased seeds. Their spread is also facilitated by infected seedlings and work equipment.

Drugs

Root-knot nematodes cannot be controlled with pesticides. The worm-like pest can withstand the effects of many of them. When choosing preparations for treatment, preference should be given to nematicides. Their main advantage is safety for humans. In addition, they ensure the preservation of the balance of fungi and bacteria in the soil. This allows you to resist future nematode attacks.

The active ingredient of such biological products is a predatory mushroom. But the drugs also have a significant disadvantage: although they prevent nematodes from multiplying, they do not save the affected plant. The following nematicides have proven themselves to be effective:

Nematophagin BT. The drug is diluted in a ratio of 1:100. You can apply the product to the soil at the time of planting or two weeks before. The only difference is the amount of spillage: you need to read the instructions in detail. Treatment should be repeated after 14 days.
Nematorin. This is a new generation nematicide. It is characterized by low toxicity. The effectiveness of the product does not depend on the acidity of the soil.
Bassamil. The drug was created to protect the “favorites” of nematodes - cucumbers and tomatoes. You need to prepare the solution according to the instructions and pour it on the soil.

Traditional methods

Many generations of gardening enthusiasts have fought against root-knot nematodes. Naturally, a huge number of folk recipes have appeared on how to ward off the pest. The three most popular are presented below:

Spilling "sugar" water. You need to dissolve regular sugar in running water and pour over the area where the damaged plants were found. Manipulation will help attract “helpers” - microorganisms that are enemies of root-knot nematodes. These include mites, predatory fungi, and predatory nematodes. They parasitize on the voracious larvae of the “invaders”.
Planting the necessary plants. Marigolds and calendula repel root-knot nematodes. Therefore, it is recommended to plant these plants in the garden, especially in areas where cucumbers, tomatoes, and carrots are planted. It is these cultures that most often suffer from “invaders”.
Herbal infusions. You can repel nematodes using calendula tincture. You will need a kilogram of flower raw materials. It is poured with boiling water (the volume is a full bucket). The product is infused for two days, and then used for watering vegetable crops. Infusions of nasturtium and onion peel are made in the same way.

Traditional methods help reduce the number of pests on the site. However, they are unable to breathe life into affected plants.

Methods for controlling nematodes

Due to its long lifespan and resistance to chemicals, it is very difficult to get rid of the parasite. Recently, scientists have invented an effective and simple way to combat potato nematodes, which can reduce yields by 85%.

Thus, the cysts of this type of worm open when the smell of potato juice appears when the tubers ripen. To deceive the worms that crawl out of the larvae and eat underground fruits, you should squeeze out the juice from several tubers 7-10 days before planting potatoes and pour it on the ground in several places of the planned plantings. After opening the cysts, the worms that crawl out of them rush to the smell and die of hunger.

There are also other control methods, the combined use of which will increase the chance of defeating the pest.

Folk remedies

To destroy developing larvae and the worms themselves, water the soil generously with boiling water before planting. This folk remedy helps clean the soil from other types of pests without resorting to the use of harmful chemicals. The worm dies at temperatures above 50-55 degrees; to increase the effect, it is necessary to soak the ground with boiling water to a depth of at least 20 cm. To enhance the effect, cover the flooded areas with film, pressing it down with a weight. Although some of the pests manage to crawl deeper into the ground, this measure still makes it possible to destroy the majority of nematodes located in the ground.

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It is recommended to heat treat the plants themselves that have suffered from the activity of the root-knot nematode. To do this, add 0.06% formalin to water (45-50 degrees) and dip the bulbs and roots into the solution, keeping them in the hot liquid for 20-30 minutes.

Agrotechnical methods

In order to reduce the number of pests in early spring, it is necessary to carry out deep digging of the soil. Most of the pupae overwintering in the ground will die from low temperatures. If the soil is heavily contaminated, the same measure is carried out in late autumn, after the onset of frost.

Other agricultural practices that can be used against the pest include:

Use only healthy seeds and seedlings.
Removing topsoil.
Regular thinning of plantings and cleaning of beds from weeds.
Moderate watering, in which you should avoid getting water on the leaves of the plants.
Timely destruction of weak and infected bushes.
Thorough cleaning of the garden after harvesting from plant debris. They must be burned directly on the site, each time laying the fires in different places. This will allow you to destroy not only the parasites located in the remains of plants, but also those worms that have taken refuge in the soil under the fire.
A partial reduction in the number of parasites can be achieved by planting winter crops in areas freed up after harvesting. This measure is carried out in August or early September. With the onset of frost, the sown winter crops are dug as deep as possible.

Chemicals

Good preparations for nematodes are organophosphorus pesticides (Mercaptophos, Phosfamide). It is necessary to treat crops with these products at least 2-4 times, every 3-5 days. These drugs have a toxic effect on people, animals, and bees, so they must be used with extreme caution, strictly following the instructions from the manufacturer. If there is a need to treat indoor flowers with such products, they are first taken outside and left there for at least 2-3 weeks after treatment.

To get rid of root nematodes, products containing the active substance abamectin (Vertimek, Akarin) are used. The prepared solution based on the listed drugs is watered abundantly on the affected plants. Indoor flowers are transplanted into clean, uncontaminated soil, after soaking the roots for 30 minutes.

A solution with Vertimek is prepared at the rate of 5 ml per 10 liter bucket of water. Akarin is prepared in the proportion of 1 ampoule (4 ml) per 1 liter of water. Crops should be processed in the morning or evening hours.

A good effect can also be obtained by using the drug Nematorin. It is applied to the soil before planting crops in the form of dry granules, which are embedded to a depth of 10-15 cm.

How to deal with root nematode

How to cure the soil from nematodes? In order to destroy a pest, you need to know which conditions are most favorable for it, and in which it dies. Active reproduction of this root parasite occurs at temperatures of +18...24°C and substrate humidity of 40...60%. In such conditions, the full development cycle takes no more than 4 weeks. And if the temperature and humidity remain at this level for a long time, then in one year the soil nematode can produce 5-6 generations.

In order to stop the spread of nematodes throughout the garden plot, it is necessary, first of all, to observe crop rotation. And since these parasites are able to feed only on a specific plant, their reproduction will be stopped. However, the crop rotation scheme must be designed in such a way that the affected plant does not appear in the infected area for 3-4 years. During this period of time, the root nematode should die.

On a note! Even in the absence of a host plant, the nematode can remain viable for several years!

Control of some types of nematodes may involve drying the soil. This procedure is easy to carry out if the parasite was found on indoor plants or seedlings. And to destroy it, it is enough to spread the substrate in a thin layer and wait until it dries completely. And in order to prevent damage to potted plants and seedlings, you should use only clean soil purchased from a garden store. Taking substrate from a garden bed or garden is highly discouraged.

Folk recipes

Experienced gardeners suggest using folk remedies for nematodes, which are based exclusively on natural ingredients.

Hot water treatment. We dig up infected plants, wash the rhizomes from the ground and place them in water, the temperature of which should be from 48 to 55°C. You can keep the bush in water from 5 to 20 minutes, depending on the degree of damage. Adults will die at temperatures around 40°C; the water must be hotter to kill the eggs.
Important! Just don't heat the water too much. Please remember that the maximum limit is +55°C. Otherwise, you will simply cook the plant and it will die!
Urea with potato sprouts. This product helps lure the larvae out of the cysts, after which they die. To prepare it, you need to take a kilo of potato sprouts and pass them through a meat grinder. Pour the resulting mass into a bucket of water (10 l). The consumption of the finished product is 10 liters per 100 m2. In spring I use 50 g of urea per 1 m2, in autumn - from 100 to 250 g.
Infusion of marigolds. It is prepared from a kilo of crushed raw materials, soaked in a bucket of water. After 2 days of infusion, the product is filtered and used to water the infected beds.
Infusion of poisonous hogweed. Fill a kilo of grass with a bucket of water and leave it warm for a day. Mix and filter. Just remember that this plant is very poisonous, and therefore you should prepare the infusion and use it with gloves.
Infusion of calendula officinalis. For a liter of water, take a tablespoon of dried raw materials and leave for 24 hours. The finished product can be used to protect the soil from nematodes by watering the plants twice a month, as well as for treatment - in this case, treatment is carried out several times at weekly intervals.
Onion infusion. You need to take 400 g of onion, chop it and add a bucket of water. A day later, the infusion is filtered and the infected beds are watered 2-3 times at seven-day intervals.
Large nasturtium. We take 250-300 g of raw material and infuse it in five liters of water for 24 hours. We filter the finished solution and use it to water the affected crop. We process the plants 2-3 times at weekly intervals.

In case of serious infection, hot treatment with plain water gives good results. However, this method is very labor-intensive, especially if many plants are infected. In this case, many gardeners prefer to simply trim off the damaged roots. However, you should not get too carried away with this procedure, since it is stressful for the crop itself - the plants cannot always gain enough strength to form new healthy roots.

Chemicals

For nematodes, chemical preparations that belong to the group of nematicides are used. Among them:

"Lindane" ("Ruskamin");
"Heterophos";
"Mercaptophos";
"Phosphamtide."

The listed drugs are used for spraying affected plantings. In this case, the treatment must be carried out 2-3 times at intervals of 3 to 5 days.

Important! Chemicals are not able to destroy eggs, since their chitinous shell is too dense. Therefore, remember that when the effect of the drug wears off, the parasites will hatch and continue to destroy the plants. This suggests that a single treatment will not be enough even with weak soil contamination!

Mistakes when fighting nematodes

Common mistakes that gardeners and flower growers make when trying to cope with nematodes are:

The use of insecticides alone, without the use of agrotechnical methods and folk remedies.
Untimely destruction of affected plants and plant waste.
Late start of treatment for diseased plants.
Disposing of contaminated plant waste into a compost bin.

Pest eggs are distinguished by their vitality: they are able to maintain vital activity for 10 years.

Biology of roundworms

They reproduce in two ways:

The female is on the surface of the root and lays eggs in a sac, the larvae from which first fall into the soil, and then make their way into the root system of the host plant, after which it becomes infected. The female individual is completely in the tissues of the root and lays eggs inside it. The hatched larvae move through the root tissues and settle there for feeding and development. Biological methods of protection no longer work on them.

It should be noted that larvae from the roots, under favorable conditions, are able to move throughout all organs of the plant.

Prevention

To prevent infection of an area with a nematode, you must adhere to the following rules:

After harvesting, carefully remove all plant debris, leaves and grass from the garden.
Weed and loosen agricultural crops in a timely manner.
If yellow leaves appear and stems change color, remove them from the area as soon as possible.
Use proven planting material.
Carry out deep digging of the soil in autumn and early spring.
Avoid over-wetting the soil.

An important preventative measure is also the use of nematode-resistant varieties. Among tomatoes, these are Nagano F1, Evpator F1, Malika F1, potatoes - Diamant, Picasso, strawberries - Dessertnaya, Saxony.

Recommendations for agricultural technology

Solving the problem of nematode infestation of a site must be approached comprehensively. It is also useful to use the following recommendations:

Weed the area.
Uproot heavily affected plants and burn them outside the garden.
Spraying should be carried out in dry, windless weather. Preferably early in the morning or late in the evening.
If the crop grew in a box or pot, replace the soil in it.
In flowerbeds and beds, remove the top layer of soil, then steam the soil for 10 minutes at a temperature of ≈ 60°C.
If you had to remove all the infected plants, then you need to disinfect the soil with urea: 1.5 kg of urea per 1 m2 of land.
If nematosis was detected in a timely manner and it is not yet advanced, urea is applied at the rate of 200 g per 1 m2 of land.

How to get rid of nematodes on the site: chemicals and folk remedies

Adding an article to a new collection

How to prevent nematodes from appearing on potatoes?

Considering that the nematode is a very persistent and quite tenacious pest, it is therefore important to make every effort to prevent its appearance on the site.

Agrotechnical techniques are more related to preventive control measures than to full-fledged protective measures or pest control measures.

For example, a preventive and protective measure aimed at preventing the appearance of nematodes and protecting tubers from its attacks is to place a handful of onion peels in the holes when planting potatoes.
On the plots of vacationers, after growing potatoes on them, I recommend growing green manure in compliance with all agrotechnical techniques for a particular green manure crop.

Planting material

Preventive measures include planting exclusively healthy potato tubers on the site without the slightest sign of the presence of a pest on their surface in the form of cysts or inside in the form of living nematodes.

It is necessary to promptly disinfect potato planting material, especially if there is a risk of infection or contamination of the soil.

Naturally, you need to use nematode-resistant potato varieties ,

1. from the early cultivars these are:

Rikea,
League,
Bellarosa,
Sturdy,
Sandrine,
Gloria;

2. from the mid-early ones:

Obriy,
Dobrochin,
Gala,
Sante;

3. from mid-season:

Aurora,
Yanka,
Hussar,
Cascade;

4. from the middle-late ones:

Banafa,
Ruta,
Grouse;

5. from the later ones:

Vectar,
Zhuravinka,
Ragneda,
Volare.

These cultivars are noted for the fact that when the larvae penetrate the tuber, their tissues begin to harden, literally walling up the pest in the tuber, after which the larvae die.

Crop rotation

Crop rotation rules must be followed. Agrotechnical measures to combat or protect against potato nematodes include an annual change of the site where it is planned to grow potatoes.

The main thing is not to plant potatoes in the same area for decades in a row, this will lead to the inevitable accumulation of bacteria, viruses, and various pests, including nematodes, in the soil.

Care

Always hill up potato plants in a timely manner, control weeds, water potato plants, and if infected plants are found, remove them from the site and burn them outside the area and under no circumstances place them in compost heaps, remember that nematode cysts remain viable up to 11 years old.

As a result, we can say that the nematode is a dangerous, quarantine pest; only prevention of its occurrence, competent and timely control of the nematode will eliminate the appearance or nullify the presence of this pest on your site.

Who are nematodes

Nematodes, or roundworms, are a type of living organisms that include a huge number of species, many of them parasites of both animals and plants. As a result of their life activity in the garden and on the bed (both in open ground and in greenhouses), the germination capacity of plants is reduced, growth and development slows down, multiple deformations are formed, flowering and fruiting are greatly weakened, resistance to most diseases is reduced, many of the young plants they just don't survive.

These worms exist on the roots as ectoparasites or penetrate into the plant through the organs of the root system and already behave as endoparasites of leaves and stems.

In this regard, herbivorous nematodes are divided into three large groups:

Stem nematodes are especially harmful to vegetable and flower crops. As they feed, they actively release toxins, clog the plant’s blood vessels and severely damage the stems, leaves, buds and flowers. You can notice them by cracking and deformation of the stem, spindle-shaped thickenings, corrugation and dark spotting of leaves, loosening of the tissues of succulent scales in bulbous plants. Their favorite objects are hyacinths, begonias, daffodils, carnations, phlox, tulips, onions, garlic, tomatoes, cucumbers, parsley.
Leaf nematodes are fast-moving endoparasites. Their activity is recognized by the appearance of pale yellow spots, thinning, browning and further drying and dying of leaves. They live on a variety of ornamental plants; they love strawberries, chrysanthemums, and nephrolepis.
Root (knot-knot) nematodes are so named because they parasitize the root system of plants, forming growths (galls) of various sizes and shapes on it, which interfere with normal nutrition and water absorption, as a result of which the plants wither and die. Greenhouse tomatoes, eggplants, and cucumbers especially suffer from them - you can lose 30-80% of your harvest! These parasites also feel great in open ground, affecting beets, potatoes, and oats. Ornamental crops are also in danger - lilies, ficus, asparagus, begonias, cyclamens...

Related article: List of plants starting with the letter C: indoor, garden and vegetable gardens

A significant danger of nematodes also lies in the fact that they are carriers of phytopathogenic organisms, facilitating their penetration into plant tissue through the resulting damage and further viral diseases.

Nematodes on plants feed extremely actively and reproduce, creating entire colonies. And the peculiarities of their biological development (several intermediate forms with very different characteristics) lead to the fact that conventional pesticides do not have any toxic effect on them.

The most common representatives in our summer cottages are such representatives as golden potato nematode, beet nematode, stem onion nematode, strawberry nematode, chrysanthemum leaf nematode and others.

How to fight them, what helps against nematodes?

Signs of plant infection by nematode

For successful reproduction and development of nematodes, heat and humidity are required. Rainy summer weather, acidic and sandy soils contribute to the spread of pests . In dry soil and when the temperature drops, they fall into suspended animation, stop reproducing or die.

Nematode on strawberry

Yellow-brown, reddish spots appear between the veins on strawberry leaves. The petioles also change color: they turn red and lose their pubescence. In places of darkening, the leaves become thinner, turn brown, dry out or rot.

Infected bushes lag behind in growth and development. The whiskers are shortened, the rosettes are deformed, and their central part dies over time.

Nematode on potatoes

Worms penetrate the roots, suck the juices out of the plant, taking away the strength for growth and development. Such bushes have only 1–3 stems, the leaves are small - during the day they look lethargic, lose their green color and turn yellow, and then dry out. The root system weakens, tubers do not set at all, or there are few of them and most of them are small.

Nematode on onion

Plants into which nematodes have invaded develop thickened and curved feathers, which turn yellow and droop over time. Inside, the bulb becomes soft and loose, and begins to rot from the inside.

Nematode on beets

On affected plants, the leaves change color - they turn brown and become limp. The beets are stunted in growth, and signs of rot are visible on the root crops removed from the ground. If they are not damaged, then most often they are small in size and have many adventitious roots. In winter, such a crop is poorly stored.

Nematode on chrysanthemums

Nematodes damage many ornamental plants, but most often among garden flowers they settle on chrysanthemums. First, light yellow spots appear on the leaves. They turn brown and the leaves die. The shoots are shortened, and some appear thickened and swollen.

Flowers on such chrysanthemums do not form or become smaller and deformed. The chrysanthemum nematode also damages other garden flowers: asters, delphiniums, zinnias, phlox, begonias .

Folk remedies for nematodes

The main and, perhaps, the only effective folk remedy for fighting nematodes is “cheap and cheerful” - pouring boiling water on the soil on the eve of planting. High temperatures are detrimental to tiny nematodes, and after this procedure their numbers in the area actually decrease noticeably. You just need to remember that for the real effect, the ground must be soaked with hot water with a temperature of at least 50-55 ° C to a depth of at least 15-20 cm. After this, it can also be covered with polyethylene so that it cools more slowly.

Alas, the measure is not fully effective. Although a significant number of nematodes live in the surface layers of the substrate and, as a rule, die during such thermal disinfection, some pests can migrate to deeper layers of soil and escape.

In addition to the soil, the affected plants themselves can be treated with hot water - this mainly concerns bulbs and roots damaged by root-knot nematodes. They are washed off the ground and then soaked in hot (45-50°C) water for 10-30 minutes. As a useful additive, formaldehyde can be added to this water at a concentration of 0.06%.

Means and preparations

How to remove a nematode? There are a lot of systemic and contact poisons intended for spraying plants. Common nematicides include solutions of mercaptophos, lindane

, as well as
methyl bromide, chloropicrin, carbathion
and
organophosphorus compounds
.

Systemic drugs penetrate the plant’s body through the roots and poison the nematodes through the leaves and stems. Organophosphorus compounds (phosphamide, karbofos, methyl mercaptophos) are sprayed

on plant bushes or fruit trees to remove leaf and stem nematodes.

To completely get rid of adult nematodes in your area, every week

It is enough to treat the plants 3-4 times.

Phosfamide

– a moderately hazardous substance for humans and animals, but very toxic for pollinating insects.
It is effective against both garden mites or aphids and roundworms. Fruit trees like apple and pear trees are sprayed with a 0.1% or 0.2% solution at a rate of 0.8 - 4.0 kg per 1 ha; for cherries and plums 0.8 - 3.0 kg is sufficient. Treatment must be stopped
one month before harvest.
Experts do not recommend
spraying near greens, vegetables and berries.

Another remedy is BAK “Ekogel”

, environmentally friendly and safe, protects plants from various diseases, including root-knot nematodes.
It is used by adding it to the ground and has a detrimental effect on both eggs and adult worms. The duration of the effect is 3-9 weeks. You can soak the seeds
before planting or spray the plants with a 1% Ecogel solution.

The drug "Nematofagin BT"

is based on predatory fungi and penetrates into the soil (to a depth of 15-20 cm).

It's absolutely safe

in comparison with chemicals, and the mycelium of the fungus kills nematode worms within a day.

It can also be combated with the help of the drug “Fitoverm”.

It is available in the form of a 0.2% powder and, when acting on nematodes and their larvae, deprives them of the opportunity to feed normally. It is applied to the soil under infected plants.

If you follow the recommendations for sanitary preparation and fertilization of the soil, and carry out frequent heat treatments of the soil, roots and seeds, you can protect your plantations

from the spread of nematodes.
Give preference to plants with high immunity

plant protective plants
nearby to repel roundworms.

Nematode pests are roundworms that live in the soil and underground plant tissues. There are several types of nematodes (strawberry, onion, stem, root-knot), a description of which you can find on this page. We also bring to your attention photos of nematodes and recommendations for combating nematodes in the garden.

The difference between herbivorous worms and other species is that they are very small in size (0.2 mm).

Nematodes, plant pests, feed on plant sap. Vegetable crops are harmed not only by adult individuals, but also by their larvae. The most widespread are root-knot and strawberry nematodes.

The strawberry nematode is a microscopic worm that settles on the above-ground parts of strawberries and severely infects plant tissue, as a result of which they are severely stunted in growth. Their leaves and petioles become red, wrinkled and smaller. With severe damage, the leaf petioles swell. Plants produce poor harvests.

As a rule, the pest is spread with planting material from infected plants growing nearby, as well as from some weeds. Measures to combat the strawberry nematode involve the implementation of preventive measures. It is necessary to dig up and burn the affected plants, treat the space they occupy with bleach, and carefully remove weeds.

Agrotechnical methods of getting rid of nematodes

Other preventive measures and means of combating nematodes without the use of chemicals are also conditionally effective. This:

Maintaining crop rotation.
Selection of varieties and hybrids that are relatively resistant to nematode damage (for example, for tomatoes - Nagano F1, Evpator F1, Malika F1; for garden strawberries - Festivalnaya, Zhemchuzhnitsa, Dessertnaya, Saxonka, Raketa; for potatoes - Scarlet, Fresco, Picasso, Diamant) .
Careful selection of healthy seed.
Warming the tuber bulbs and corms before planting for 15 minutes at a temperature of about 45-50°C or 3-5 minutes at a temperature of 55-60°C.
Pre-plant disinfection of the soil with hot water, removal of the top layer, digging and mandatory mulching.
Regular care of plantings - weeding and thinning.
Careful watering - drops of water should not remain on the stems and leaves for a long time, because... this promotes the development of nematodes.
Planting phytoncidal plants between rows that help repel pests, for example, marigolds or calendula.
If an infection is detected during the growing season, promptly remove affected and weakened plants.
After harvesting, remove all plant debris from the site and remove (burn) all remaining contaminated plant material along with the surrounding soil.
To increase fertility and partially destroy the nematode, the area freed up after harvesting in August - early September is well sown with grain (preferably winter) crops. First, the area is cleared of weeds and plant residues, the soil is loosened and only then grains are sown “randomly” to a depth of 2-3 cm. When persistent frosts occur, the soil along with the winter crops is dug up, making a full rotation of the layer. In this way, it is enriched with organic matter and freed from the most dangerous pest - the nematode, which in such unfavorable conditions for it simply freezes out.

Harm of the root-knot nematode

For comparison, on the left are roots with a nematode, on the right are healthy roots.

The pest often causes significant or irreparable harm to cultivated plants.

Penetrating to the root, the larvae begin to feed on juices, form swellings - galls, and disrupt the water supply and supply of nutrients to the trunk and leaves of the cucumber. The disease from nematodes is classified as meloidogynosis.

It is very difficult to detect infection at the initial stage. It is determined by the following factors:

the parasite has a microscopic size - 0.2-1.2 mm ;
lays over 2000 eggs ;
capable of reproducing 13 generations ;
the female can go without food for one year.

Resistance to low temperatures - up to 30 degrees below zero , and aggressive external conditions make it even more difficult to fight the parasite.

Signs of defeat

It is almost impossible to see the pest at the beginning of damage to the plant. The photo shows barely noticeable growths on the root of a cucumber, but these are not the nematode itself, but the galls that arise as a result of its vital activity.

It is somewhat difficult to determine the initial signs of a cucumber being affected by meloidogynosis. Gardeners should pay attention to the following aspects:

cucumber leaves wither even on a sunny day, a slight lack of useful elements appears;
You can assume a nematode infection by the wilting of the leaves.
the symptoms resemble those of root and basal rot , which occurs especially with weakened plants.

You can be completely sure of a nematode infection only after digging up the cucumber by the roots.

Biological description

Nematodes are colorless white worms of microscopic size that live inside plant tissue and belong to the class of roundworms. Parasitic nematodes have a length of only 0.2–1.3 millimeters and are easily dispersed by wind, transferred with tools, vehicles, planting material, as well as plant debris and seeds.

The body of the nematode is small, white, not divided into segments, and consists of a skin-muscular sac, wrapped in a dense cuticle. Its oral cavity is usually equipped with a spear-like piercing organ. Nematodes use it to pierce plant tissue in order to introduce herbal enzymes and draw out juices. Adult units lay up to 2500 eggs, from which larvae soon hatch, differing from their parents in a much smaller size.

Nematodes can damage both above-ground and underground plant organs. Several generations can form in a year. Most nematodes are severe pests of fruit, vegetable and berry crops. In addition, they can be carriers of viral diseases.

There are approximately thirty species of such worms in nature. Some of them infect plants, others - animals, and others - humans. Further we will talk only about nematodes that parasitize plants:

Male nematodes are mobile, unlike spindle-shaped, immobile females. Their body has a worm-like configuration, 0.5–2 millimeters long, narrowed at the front and rounded at the back.
The larvae resemble the figure of a male, but are smaller in size. The reverse part of the body is more transparent and pointed.
The eggs are microscopic and pale in color. The female lays them in the so-called egg sacs, consisting of a gelatinous film. One such bag contains a huge number of them.

Symptoms of nematode infection

Leaf nematodes are colorless, extremely mobile parasitic worms up to 1 millimeter long. Foliar nematodes cause pale yellowish spots on plants, which eventually turn brown and dry out. Leaves infected with nematodes may become thin. Sometimes necrotic, incomprehensible spots may appear, shoots and reproductive organs may change shape.

Stem nematodes colonize stems, flowers and leaves, initiating thickening of affected tissues and organs. These representatives of roundworms do not exceed 1.7 millimeters in length. Stem nematodes cause swelling on the stem and dulling of the affected parts of the plant. Damaged organs turn brown and die over time.

The above-ground parts of plants affected by root-knot nematodes have external signs that can be attributed to signs of deficiency of certain mineral elements. From time to time, plants do not show such signs at all. In closed ground, with severe infection, wilting of leaves is observed. But it is quite easy to diagnose nematode infection by the plant’s root system: on the roots, most often in places of branching, you can notice galls - thickenings, which in some susceptible species can reach several centimeters in diameter.

Galls on roots can form not only under the influence of root-knot nematodes, but also as a result of the formation of bacterial infections, therefore, for a correct diagnosis, it is necessary to confirm the presence of female nematodes in the roots. With meloidogynosis, through a binocular magnifying glass, females and egg sacs can be easily seen on the affected roots.

A fundamental element of diagnosis is the presence of egg sacs containing eggs on the outside of the galls. Moreover, the largest egg sacs develop on small galls and are almost never found on the surface of singalls, in which the entire cycle takes place inside the root. Young egg sacs are 0.5–1.5 millimeters in size, yellowish in color, and become brown over time.

Damage caused by nematodes

Nematodes are very dangerous for plants, because these worms feed on their sap. As a result, the plantings begin to grow more slowly and literally wither before our eyes, which ultimately negatively affects the harvest. When massively infected, plants completely stop developing and eventually die.

Plant diseases caused by this worm are called nematodes. They affect both herbaceous species, shrubs, and trees. Both wild and cultivated species are affected by pests, so it is very difficult to escape from the parasite.

Another aspect of the harmfulness of nematodes is associated with damage to the integrity of the plant by these worms. The holes and passages they make are an excellent path for the penetration of pathogenic microorganisms, which also provoke the appearance of diseases. Thus, plantings receive a double blow, the consequences of which are always negative. The degree of damage caused by nematodes depends on their numbers and environmental conditions: in a favorable environment, they cause much more harm than, for example, in a cold spring. But, unfortunately, the climate of the middle zone can be called ideal for the life of the pest.

How to know about the appearance of leaf nematodes in the garden?

The appearance of nematodes in the soil on a garden plot (fighting them causes a lot of trouble for many gardeners) is accompanied by the following signs:

the foliage loses its normal color and becomes covered with brown spots;
leaves begin to curl;
petioles increase in size;
the plant begins to grow and bear fruit poorly;
the buds become covered with brown spots during the flowering period;
Glossy spots appear on the bottom of the leaves, which then turn brown.

If pest control is not started in time, the plant will gradually dry out and eventually rot completely. At the same time, solving this problem should be approached comprehensively, since nematodes in the soil (the fight against them is very difficult) can withstand any frost and will begin to devour other plants next year.

Preventive actions

So, the most effective remedies for nematodes in the soil are chemicals, but they are very toxic, so their use can bring both benefit and harm. Therefore, rather than fighting pests, it is better to try to prevent their occurrence.

To do this, take the following preventive measures:

control weeds regularly;
remove fallen leaves in a timely manner;
remove yellowed foliage from plants;
Perform periodic replanting of plants;
fluff up the soil regularly;
carefully select planting material;
do not water the plants with too much water;
Dig up your garden plot every fall.

Favorite delicacies of the leaf nematode

As mentioned earlier, these parasitic worms are capable of infecting absolutely any representatives of the flora, but most often they attack the following plants:

strawberry;
chrysanthemum;
indoor fern;
orchid;
Money Tree;
aster;
dahlia;
carnation.

Therefore, if you are growing these plants, it is very important to take certain preventive measures in advance to protect them from nematodes. We will talk about them a little later.

What are the signs to identify a nematode?

The main signs of the nematode are depressed, squat plants and stunted growth. Leaves, peduncles, petioles, deformed mustaches,

The leaves wrinkle, curl, may become smaller, become leathery (rough and similar to corrugated paper), and look as if they are pulled towards the central vein. The central vein of the leaf has swelling, it seems that the leaf is broken in several places.
The petioles are shortened, thick, twisted, acquire an atypical reddish color, and the pubescence disappears.
Stems thicken and branch heavily
The buds, flowers and ovaries take on an ugly shape, sometimes forming like a miniature green head of cauliflower.
Pale green growths form on the mustache, the mustache is thickened and shortened.
Berries become small and ugly
The tissues of leaves, petioles, peduncles and tendrils become loose.

Types of nematodes

These worms live on the roots as ectoparasites, or penetrate inside the plant using organs of the root system and already manifest themselves as endoparasites of stems and leaves.

In this regard, herbivorous nematodes are divided into the following groups.

Stem and leaf

Leaf and stem nematodes provoke spindle-shaped thickening of stems, underdevelopment of the leaf blade and its destruction. Leaves infected with leaf nematodes are covered with dried necrotic spots of irregular shape, placed in a chaotic manner.

Strawberries, nephrolepis, and chrysanthemums are especially often damaged by leaf nematodes. The stem nematode is found on vegetable crops: garlic and onions, parsley, parsnips, tomatoes, radishes, cucumbers.

Beet nematode

The beet disease, caused by a nematode, was named beet fatigue (beet fatigue) of the soil, since its appearance was attributed to the depletion of the soil and its depletion in potassium salts; however, then the true cause of the disease was clarified thanks to the research of Kühn and others.

The damage caused by the nematode consists of browning of the leaves and a decrease in the size and weight (by 2–3 times) of the plant root, and the latter often completely rot. The amount of sugar in sick beetroot decreases by more than 6%. Given the enormous fertility of the nematode, it can cause quite a lot of damage to beet plantations.

Potato nematode

Roundworm of the family Heterodcridae. Body length approximately 1 millimeter. It parasitizes the roots of potatoes (less commonly, potatoes), tomatoes, and sometimes black nightshade. The potato nematode is found in Europe, Asia, South and North America, Africa and Australia.

Development from a caterpillar to an adult potato nematode takes place in the tissues of the root (tuber) of the plant. Worm-like, colorless males crawl out of the root into the ground. The females remain attached to the root (tuber) with their head end; the swollen body, covered with a thick cuticle, protrudes outward.

After insemination, the male dies, and the female forms over 1000 eggs, which remain in the mother’s body, which becomes a cyst after her death. In spring, the larvae emerge from the cyst and invade the roots of plants.

Potato nematode suppresses potato development, significantly reducing yield levels; with severe infection, tubers do not form or only 1–3 small tubers grow.

Root nematodes

Formation takes 19–45 days. The female located inside the gall lays up to 2 thousand eggs during her life. The nematode larva formed in the egg passes the first molt in the egg, hatches, is introduced into the root and intensively feeds on the juices of the host plant, transforming into a stationary female, or a mobile male leaving the gall in search of a female.

The growth and formation of the nematode is facilitated by moderate soil moisture and temperatures in the range of 20–30°C. In some farming areas, soil pH levels of 5.5–5.8 favor nematode occurrence. Other factors, such as soil type and organic fertilizers, similarly influence the life cycle of the nematode.

The most effective means

Novice gardeners have never heard of fulmigation, which is the most effective method of pest control. What is soil fumigation against nematodes? This is the treatment of plants and soil with special toxic substances and their vapors. You can buy chemicals at any gardening store. Experienced farmers recommend using Nefamos, Dimethoate or Vidat, which are used to spray plants. To make them more effective, chemical treatment of crops is best done on a clear, calm day. If the plant has been affected by root nematodes, then the chemicals are diluted with water and added to the root system. It is worth noting that these products only kill adult worms, so it is recommended to spray several times so that the larvae also die.