What to do if there are bugs in the beans and how to get rid of the photo

One of the most useful and easy-to-maintain garden crops is beans. But gardeners often notice that bugs gradually appear in the harvested crop. This happens not only due to improper storage of the crop; the appearance of bugs in beans may also be due to its irrational harvesting. The main pests of legumes include aphids, weevils, sprout flies, root nodule weevils, whiteflies, and codling moths. To eliminate the possibility of their occurrence, every summer resident needs to know the measures to prevent and combat them.

Where do insects come to us from?

Many housewives who carefully keep their house clean often wonder: why are there bugs in the beans? Most often, insects appear due to the fact that sanitary standards are poorly observed in factories. Such consequences can be caused by neglect of heat treatment and violation of storage rules. This is why beans sold in stores may initially contain pests.

Beetles can also appear in beans by moving into them from neighboring products. Most often, bugs move into beans made from flour and starch.

Preparing in pods will freezing help?

Freezing is an excellent method of storing pods, which will protect the crop from pests.

During the harvesting process, it is important to follow simple rules:

The pods are washed and dried well.
Each pod is cut into pieces no longer than 3 cm.
The product is blanched in boiling salted water for 5 minutes.
The pods are taken out of the pan and placed on a paper napkin or clean cloth. After complete drying, the supplies are placed in plastic containers.
When laying, you need to focus on the amount of product used at a time.
Re-freezing of the product is not allowed.

https://youtube.com/watch?v=cD4AEbdGjuI%3Ffeature%3Doembed

What harm do they cause?

The bugs that appeared in the beans begin to actively eat the beans, filling the vacated space with the products of their own vital activity. Due to damage to the bean structure, it becomes unsuitable for further sowing. Moreover, such beans lose their beneficial and nutritional properties, so they are strictly forbidden to be eaten.

Description and appearance of bean grain

This is a small oval brown bug, 2–5 mm in size. There are many golden hairs on the body. Dark elytra with light spots do not completely cover the yellowish abdomen.

Using magnifying devices, differences between the sexes can be seen. Males are almost half the size of females and have a more convex end of the abdomen.

Bean grain

Insects cannot tolerate negative air temperatures and die very quickly. Therefore, in regions where winters are harsh, pests can only survive in granaries. With the onset of warm days, they begin to look for food, sometimes covering distances of up to 3 km.

How to fight?

Methods of bean pest control include proper preparation of the harvested crop for storage and ensuring the correct conditions for the preservation of beans. To do this, you need to know the optimal temperature, humidity level, and method of calcining the beans.

What to do if bugs are already infested in the crop? Unfortunately, such a product becomes unsuitable for consumption and further planting, so it must be thrown away.

To prevent crop contamination, you need to know the rules for controlling major pests. You can cope with bean weevil by treating the plants with Metafox and Decis before flowering. Repeated treatment is done 10 days after the first.

Ways to fight

You can protect yourself from bugs in beans if you carefully monitor the harvest. To do this, it is recommended to frequently sort through the legumes in order to notice the appearance of bugs in time. Just emerging insects will not have time to spoil a large number of beans. Then the affected grains are thrown away along with the insects. The rest are treated with cold or high temperature.

To do this, the beans are placed in the freezer or oven for a short time. If there are clutches of eggs left in the grains, they die under the influence of low or high temperatures.

You can cope with bean pests with the help of small tricks. Some insects are frightened by strong aromas. Therefore, several cloves of garlic are placed in the container where the beans are stored. Place cloves, nutmeg or bay leaves in the pantry or kitchen where beans are stored.

Important!

An effective preventive measure against bugs is periodic sanitization of storage containers.

Where and in what should beans be stored?

Due to the fact that beans need to be kept cold, the refrigerator is considered the only optimal place until such time. If the beans are dried, they can be poured into a bag made of natural linen, and then placed in the vegetable compartment or on the door.

To protect yourself as much as possible from the appearance of pests, you need to place unpeeled garlic cloves and dill seeds next to the beans. Such additions repel pests. In winter, the beans can be transferred to the balcony.

Sprout fly

Gray with a yellow tint, striped, small, no larger than a grain, a fly.

Small, but you wouldn’t say daring, but rather malicious. The pest is polyphagous, from a family with a beautiful name: flower girls.

Contrary to this name, it has nothing to do with flowers. Harmful to seedlings and seedlings. The sprout plant chooses the sprouts.

The eggs are laid in the surface layer of the earth; if there is no rain or watering, they die by drying out.

But when it is humid, almost imperceptible 1 mm larvae hatch. Transparent, jelly-like.

They turn white after a few days. From birth they are able to crawl and move far to find seedlings.

Along the way they eat plant debris. Having found a bean, they penetrate directly into the seed at the base of the sprout.

They gnaw the cotyledons, riddling them with tunnels. One seed can be parasitized by three dozen fly larvae.

While the larva feeds, it increases in size sevenfold, becomes thick and dirty white.

The pest is polyphagous and feeds on almost all garden crops. Therefore, three generations give easily - they find food.

Crops are thinned out, surviving seedlings are weakened. Those who are damaged, if not killed, become ill: the gates of infection are open.

Agricultural technology can help in the following ways:

Implement manure as deeply and as best as possible - apply it under the predecessor;
Before sowing, treat the soil thoroughly and early, while the wintering pest is cold;
Sow beans when they can sprout due to temperature conditions - quickly, before the voracious larva finds the sprout.

Sometimes during the summer flies, if the infestation is high, the crops are sprayed with insecticides, more often with phosphorus compounds.

But - before flowering and fruiting.

How to prepare for storage?

Since the bean beetle penetrates the beans at the stage of their ripening, before storing the harvested crop, it must be prepared. Before laying, the beans should be sorted and dried. To do this, they need to be placed in an oven preheated to 80-90 degrees for 5 minutes. After such heat treatment, the grains lose their ability to germinate, so such beans must be eaten. Many gardeners claim that in order to ensure a longer shelf life of beans, they should be separated from the pods.

Habitats

The homeland of these insects is America. It was from there that the bean weevil began its journey around the world on merchant ships. At the end of the 19th century, it was brought to Europe, from where the insect came to Russia during the civil war at the beginning of the last century.

The absence of natural enemies and food competitors allowed the insect to rapidly conquer large territories. The error is now common on all continents except Antarctica.

In the territory of the former Soviet Union, the bean weevil constantly lives in the Krasnodar Territory, Crimea, Tula, Ryazan regions, Georgia, Ukraine, Moldova and Azerbaijan. The northernmost regions are characterized by focal distribution.

The parasite, brought with the crop for storage, leaves from there into the natural environment only in the summer.

Pests

Most often, beans are affected by bean weevil, sprout fly, slugs, and aphids. Therefore, the summer resident needs to know the characteristics and reasons for the appearance of these pests in the crop.

Bean grain

This pest affects bean crops in all regions, but most often it appears in the southern territories, which have a warm climate. The pest is a small beetle whose size ranges from 2-5 millimeters. Their body is characterized by an oval shape and a black shell. There are gray-yellowish stripes on the back. The bean weevil can fly long distances and also survive without food for 3 months.

The bean weevil is a heat-loving insect that does not tolerate cold weather. If the ambient temperature drops below zero, the pest dies.

Sprout fly

This pest is distinguished by its gray color, with darkening stripes on its back. Its length can reach 5 millimeters.

The insect lays eggs in the soil in April or May. If the weather is humid, larvae hatch from the eggs after 9 days. If weather conditions are dry, the eggs die. The surviving larvae penetrate the grains through the thinnest membrane in the area of sprout formation.

Slugs

The appearance of these pests is detected when traces of mucus are detected. During the day, slugs hide in the shade, and at night they go in search of food. They die if the temperature drops below 7 degrees.

Aphid

This pest is small in size, not exceeding 5 millimeters. It settles on new shoots and lower leaf blades. Such insects feed on plant sap, so such exposure can not only lead to the death of the crop, but also the entire plant.

Bristle nodule weevil

Also small, only an oblong bug - less than half a centimeter.

Distributed everywhere, only the tundra zone did not attract its climate. Setae on the elytra, hence the name.

Protruding “surprised” eyes. The female is extremely fertile (more than 800 eggs); she lays eggs, roughly speaking, “anywhere.”

She simply scatters them wherever she has to: on the ground, on plants, wherever.

Uncovered, the eggs quickly dry out and become mobile at the slightest breeze. They fall to the ground and wait for the rains.

Rain mixes them with the soil. This is their habitat, the feeding place for future larvae.

The larvae hatch during the rainy season. If the drought drags on, some of them die without leaving the eggs.

The weevil has a curved, legless and eyeless larva, but it has a head.

The dining room of the larvae is the rhizosphere of the roots, menu: nodules on the roots of beans. While the larva is small, it rules inside the nodules; as it grows, it comes out.

The larva already has few nodules; along with feeding on them, it gnaws the surface of the roots.

For a month to a month and a half, the larva torments the root system of the bean, destroys the nodules and the roots themselves, then pupates in the ground.

Maybe close to the surface, or maybe thirty centimeters deep.

After another week and a half, hungry beetles emerge from the pupae. They go looking for young, succulent foliage.

They can find it in the upper tiers of beans if they are climbing, or they attack young bush leaves.

Some migrate to younger related legumes. The most far-sighted ones find alfalfa or clover.

There you can eat until it gets cold, and then overwinter in the soil under perennials.

If the weevil settles on beans, it harms it and subsequent crops in the crop rotation.

Losing nodules, the plant itself suffers and poorly enriches the soil with nitrogen. The voracious larvae thoroughly select this nitrogen along with the nodules.

The harvest drops significantly, and its quality also decreases: with damaged roots, the plant cannot function normally.

Control measures . If sown as early as possible, the beans will partially survive.

She will have time to rise and get stronger a little before the beetle wakes up. If there is alfalfa on the plot, it is worth thinking about what to choose.

The presence of a weevil on it will inevitably lead to it on the beans. When beans are more important, it is better to plow up the alfalfa and remove it from the garden.

Otherwise, the harmful beetle will be indestructible.

Agrotechnical measures:

Plowing after legumes. Not immediately, when the beetle lay down for the winter, and it was already quite cold.
Lack of legume perennials (grasses) per kilometer from bean crops.
Preventing soil acidification (liming).

This curbs the weevil infestation. If it was already present, then the seeds are treated with available insecticides before sowing.

Diseases

In addition to pests, beans can also be destroyed by diseases. There are several reasons why beans turn black. To understand this, you need to know the main features of the diseases of this culture.

Powdery mildew

This disease is characterized by the appearance of a whitish coating on the leaves and stems of the plant. Gradually, the affected areas turn yellow.

Anthracnose

This pathology is distinguished by the fact that brown spots form on leaves, fruits, and stems. The leaves dry out and burgundy sores form on the fruits.

White rot

Affects stems and fruits. The infected areas become soft and gradually turn white. Rotting leads to the death of the planting.

Root rot

A whitish-pinkish coating appears on the roots. The beans are stunted and gradually die.

Bacterial spot

Under the influence of this pathology, the plant turns black. First, spots appear on it, which merge together over time. Gradually the planting fades.

Bean mosaic

With this disease, the leaves become variegated in color. Gradually, the leaves wrinkle and the plant withers.

melon aphid

There are many varieties of aphids. It’s bad for crops that aphids are not picky.

They called her a melon grower, she will not strictly specialize in melons, and along the way she will find a lot of tasty things for herself nearby.

The melon bean aphid loves melon no less than melon. Just because an aphid sticks while feeding does not mean that it is clumsy.

Aphids are not tied to their feeding place; they are very mobile. Even in the larval stage.

And the adult flies; the female settlers (that’s what they are called) grow wings.

They look for new feeding areas and lay eggs there. A bean plantation can quickly become overrun by such harmful travelers.

And the development cycle of aphids is short, leaving behind several generations.

The aphid is only soft in appearance; it has a hard piercing-sucking apparatus, a kind of “syringe”. Pierces tissues and sucks out nutritional contents.

There are always a lot of aphids, they quickly oppress the beans: the leaves curl and wither. Shoots and buds are deformed.

The plant may die. If it survives, it will not grow, the fruits will be frail or will not ripen at all.

Aphids also spread diseases.

They fight with agricultural technology - fragrant umbellifers are sown nearby. Aphids are not afraid of smell, but the scent attracts the natural enemies of aphids that feed on them: hoverflies.

Just less poisons so as not to kill beneficial insects (entomophages).

Good care is additional insurance against aphids for beans. Strong plants are resistant not only to diseases.

Pests also attack the weak.

An ash-soap solution is effective against any aphids. No special dosage, a handful - two ash per bucket.

Place in a small container of soap (laundry soap), dilute with warm water. It’s easier this way – dissolve the soap in a small volume and in almost hot water.

Combine the solutions and mix. Let it sit overnight, and if it’s urgent, you can do it right away: strain and spray on the “invader.”

Sprayers with adjustable spray direction are good: the aphids sit on the bottom plate, from there you need to treat the leaf to be sure.

An emulsion of green soap, diluted according to the instructions, will also help.

Protection measures

To protect plants from these diseases, it is necessary to get rid of pests, which often become their carriers. You should also provide optimal growth conditions for plantings and maintain humidity at the required level.

Preventive

If a summer resident is afraid that the beans will be affected by pests, he should prevent their occurrence. Most often, it is enough to use folk remedies that recommend covering the soil around the plants with dried nettles. You can also water the plantings with garlic broth, which will also repel pests.

Active

During the growth of the crop, the gardener is obliged to monitor the timeliness of development and the condition of the legume plant . This is necessary to identify the presence of a pest or disease at an early stage. Timely treatment will save not only the plant, but also the harvest.

Dodder

There is also such an attack on garden and any other plants, even weeds. But legumes are her special passion; she never passes them by.

It seems difficult to classify dodder as a disease; it is closer to pests, but it cannot be called a pest either.

Plant parasite. This is the “signature tag” of the dodder. Due to her omnivorous nature, she attacks everything she can reach.

And it can stretch - the stems are thin, quickly growing, braiding in a spiral around the attacked plant.

These threads are less than half a millimeter thick. There are so many of them that they can braid the entire plant with their webs and spread even on the soil around them.

Dodder especially likes young, juicy, uncoarsened stems and leaves of garden crops.

Beans suffer from this parasite no less than others. Even more like all legumes, including alfalfa.

The weed is quarantine, but it crosses quarantine posts with ease, it is very common.

Dodder on almost orange thin stems has many suckers. These are root substitutes.

By sucking, the dodder does not work to obtain food, like other plants. She simply “drinks” it, obtained by others, from their stems, where the suckers stick.

The plant on which the dodder has settled is depleted, not receiving the nutrition stolen by the uninvited lodger. It gets sick, withers, dies.

The dodder grows quickly, its leaves are not visible, they are so small, almost microscopic scales on the branches of the stem and inflorescences.

Dodder flowers are small – 2 mm, but numerous. They are located tightly, like balls.

In these balls (pods) a huge number of almost dust-like seeds ripen. When they are ripe, the dodder no longer draws juice if the bean plant is still alive.

She has enough reserves accumulated in the stem.

Dodder formerly had its own family: Cuseutaceae. This means dodder.

Now scientists have decided that it is closer to the bindweed (it climbs). When the beans curl along the support, we rejoice.

But when the dodder hits the beans, it’s a disaster. Fighting it is not an easy task. The parasite reproduces not only by seeds.

The slightest fragment of a stem can attach itself to someone else’s and grow into a full-fledged parasitic plant.

And the seeds can germinate even after 10 years.

If you notice a dodder in your garden, try to get rid of it immediately. An affected bean plant is doomed.

Either it will die from the dodder and become its breeding ground, or the owner needs to remove it. Uprooted and burned.

It is useless to pick the dodder; an unnoticeable fragment will remain somewhere and will bring the fight to naught.

And the area of the soil where the dodder was on the plants is subjected to chemical treatment. We need herbicides.

You can treat the soil without poisons, ammonium nitrate, or a strong solution (20%), but you also need to cover the adjacent land.

In production, they “burn out” with saltpeter or pesticides plus a one and a half meter radius around the hearth. At the dacha it is more difficult.

But it’s easier not to miss the beginning. Then there will be no large foci of the parasite.

Agrotechnical measures – distance of legumes in crop rotation. Beans especially need to be protected from alfalfa.

Dodder is a frequent guest there; its seeds are mixed with alfalfa, and it is not easy to separate them.

Beans are not a particularly demanding plant in itself.

And it will grow wherever you want (though with different returns), and will tolerate a short delay in watering. It can do without fertilizing.

But the plant cannot do without your help, protection from aggressively besieging problems in the form of macro and microorganisms.

Timely assistance will be as useful as a spoon for dinner. Then the beans will come in handy for dinner in due time - for you.

Pay attention to her and make each other happy all year round.

See you soon, dear readers!

Prevention

If there is a bean weevil in your summer cottage, it is better to harvest the crop before the beans begin to crack.

Aktara is suitable for processing grains from beans

As a preventative measure to combat this pest, you can spray with appropriate preparations (Aktara, etc.).

Spraying should be done before the beans begin to bloom, or at the very beginning of flowering. Spraying is carried out once, following the instructions on the product.

By applying simple rules, you can get and maintain an excellent harvest of beans in your summer cottage!

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About the author: Nikolay Golubev Experienced gardener with 20 years of experience

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