How to make a catching belt for fruit trees with your own hands

When planting a young garden in a garden plot, every owner dreams of reaping a large harvest of fruits grown without the use of pesticides, which not only do not always successfully protect the garden from pests, but can also negatively affect the health of people, animals, and beneficial insects. In order to get away from chemicals and not give up the harvest to voracious hordes of pests, experienced gardeners use proven tools and devices that help qualitatively solve the problem of protecting the garden. Such little tricks (lifehacks) save time, reduce financial costs and have a significant effect in the constant struggle for the harvest.

Testing a variety of ways to protect garden crops from pests, experienced gardeners have returned the trapping belt to gardens. For small gardens, the use of catching belts on trees has become in some way a panacea for pests.


DIY hunting belt

Pests destroyed by trapping belts

These life hacks turned out to be very successful. Using catching belts, you can significantly reduce the number of insect pests. Pest catching belts are best suited for killing caterpillars of plum, apple and pear moths. Hunting belts serve as good protection against damage by beetles - gray bud beetle (bud weevil), apple flower beetle, geese, beetles, as well as fruit moths, mites, whiteflies, aphids and other pests. Properly installed trapping belts are an insurmountable barrier for ants.

Types of hunting belts

All types of hunting belts are designed similarly. Their design is based on a barrier in the form of a tight-fitting tape and a trap of various shapes: straight adhesive tape, multi-layer corrugated paper or fabric, a funnel-shaped belt, a double funnel, a natural trap, etc. For all types of trapping belts, the following requirement is required: between the trapping belt and the bark There should not be the slightest gap left in the tree, since small insects are able to get under the tape and climb up the trunk.

Fishing belts can be dry (the simplest) or treated with sticky substances, which significantly increase their effectiveness. In this case, it is not the width and multi-layeredness of the catching belt that is important, but the quality and duration of the active action of the adhesive layer. Quick-drying, low-tack adhesives are not suitable for hunting belts.

Duct tape

Sticky trapping belts

For this purpose, use regular fly tape, which is sold in stores. There are special ready-made glue-based gels, but they are much more expensive and dry quickly. Sticky tape is wrapped around trees in a layer wide enough to make it difficult for insects to cross.

Important!

Ants can build a bridge through dangerous places using the bodies of dead relatives. Any trap needs to be checked periodically to ensure that insects do not penetrate the trees through such a bridge.

The option with sticky tape is the simplest, but it has a serious drawback: the tape is not elastic and can prevent young plantings from increasing in diameter. This is especially true for fast-growing seedlings like apple trees.

Making a hunting belt for trees with your own hands

Catching belts belong to the group of mechanical methods of plant protection. The catching belt for fruit trees is a straw rope or a wide ribbon (15-25 cm wide) made of various materials, covering the trunk and the largest skeletal branches of the trees.

A straw rope is strengthened around the trunk, sometimes treated with a preparation to kill gnawing and sucking insects. Once in the middle of the rope, the insects remain there and die. This old-fashioned method of making a catching belt for garden trees has its drawbacks - straw is required, pesticides or special insecticidal substances are used that kill not only pests, but also beneficial insects. It requires a lot of time to manufacture and frequent replacement of harnesses.

  • It is easier to make a hunting belt from various materials in the form of a ribbon encircling the trunk and skeletal branches of fruit trees. A trapping belt (trapping tape), folded in several loose layers, is wrapped around the trunk, sticks supporting spreading branches, and tightly secured with twine. In autumn and spring, rising from the ground along the trunk, insects remain between the loosely folded layers of the trapping belt. Once every 1-2 weeks, the trapping belt is removed, the pests are destroyed and returned to its place. If there are a lot of pests, it is burned and replaced with a new one.
  • You can make your own funnel-shaped catching belt, which is fixed with the narrow side on the bark with the “skirt” down. As a variety, a double funnel is used - insects, moving from top to bottom along the trunk, fall into the oil or other adhesive solution of the upper funnel and die. Insects, rising from the ground along the trunk, fall under the free part of the lower “skirt” and accumulate there or fall onto the litter under the tree, where they are easy to collect and destroy.
  • Some gardeners make a rubber trap that resembles a plunger. The lower part of such a catching belt tightly covers the trunk, and insects are collected in a bowl filled with some technical oil or adhesive substance. The uniqueness of this type of tree catching belt is that as the trunk increases in volume, the rubber stretches. The hunting belt is changed once every 3-4 months. These belts are used from early spring to late autumn to destroy caterpillars, larvae, ants, moths, aphids and other pests. But they all have a common drawback. When adhesive substances come into contact with the bark of a tree, they cause harm to it. In addition, the use of toxic adhesives causes the death of not only pests, but also beneficial insects.

Attention! Ordinary adhesives should not get on the tree bark. When they dry out, they prevent the flow of oxygen. The bark and subcortical layer of wood die, which leads to the formation of cracks and hollows.


Aerosol adhesive for protection against insects

Alternative to glue and cool traps

There are a number of alternative options that can replace anti-mouse glue. They have their own characteristics, which leads to changes in operating rules.

These include:

  1. Classic mousetraps. The death of a rodent occurs almost instantly. It is important to choose the right bait, choose a place to install the device and not leave your own odors. Rodents can successfully bypass them due to non-compliance with clear installation rules.
  2. Poison. It can only be used in rooms where there are no people or pets. Prohibited for use in hospitals and food storage warehouses. Poisoned mice and rats come out of hiding. But some of them die in hard-to-reach places, decomposing in the process. On sale you can find a poison that mummifies the carcasses of animals, thereby eliminating the persistent, unpleasant odor.
  3. Ultrasonic repeller. It is a compact device that connects to a common network. Creates ultrasonic waves that are inaudible to humans. Rodents are frightened by this sound. They begin to avoid the room where the device is operating. However, over time, mice can become accustomed to ultrasound. As a rule, rats are repelled by signals with a frequency of 20-50 kHz, mice by 10-20 kHz.

Many owners of private houses or apartments get a cat. This pet will not only create a more comfortable environment and delight others, but will also prevent mice from appearing. But in this case, the feline family is likely to catch some kind of infection or even get poisoned through a poisoned rodent carcass, which happens to almost all animals.

Using aerosol glue to make a hunting belt

If it is impossible to make hunting belts yourself, you can purchase ready-made ones in specialized stores. Manufacturers offer many different options with varying costs and benefits. Recently, a new product has appeared on the market that has no analogues. Gardeners are offered aerosol adhesive for treating catch belts, which is safe for human health, animals and the environment. The composition of the aerosol glue has bait properties and at the same time serves as an adhesive trap for insect pests.

Features of aerosol glue

  1. Aerosol glue is available in a 400 ml aerosol can, which is most convenient when applying it to the material of the hunting belt.
  2. When used, it is sprayed in a thin layer.
  3. Very economical, consumption is 2.5-3.0 g per 10*10 cm substrate.
  4. The aerosol is absolutely safe for humans and animals.
  5. Does not harm trees if it gets on the bark.
  6. The remaining mass in a closed cylinder is suitable for use for 5 years.

The proposed drug is also remarkable in that it can be used indoors in the form of traps and baits for catching flies, ants and other crawling and flying insects.

Method of using aerosol glue

Aerosol glue is very convenient to use:

  • Shake the closed container thoroughly;
  • remove the cap;
  • continuously pressing the spray head, apply a thin layer of adhesive foam onto the prepared base.

A fishing belt using aerosol glue is convenient because it does not require constant replacement. It is enough to renew the adhesive layer with an aerosol once a month. This technique reduces the time spent on protecting trees by 2-3 times. The trapping belt is completely removed at the end of August and burned.

Additional information on the offered product can be obtained on the website of the Technoexport company


Using aerosol glue


Using aerosol glue

Glue for rats and mice - what is it and how does it work?

Probably, many had to deal with such minor “living problems” as rats or mice. These unpleasant rodents cause only one problem: from banal fright to damage to furniture and other household items. But people have learned to counteract them quite effectively using “special glue.”


Glue against rats, mice and insects is a special preparation that is designed to combat rodents; It does not dry out for a long time, which is why it retains its properties for a long time. It is applied to different surfaces along with bait and placed in the place where the activity of the “enemies” is greatest. The rodent, sensing the smell of food, unsuspectingly, goes to the trap you have prepared. Upon contact with the glue, his body sticks and he dies. The rodent cannot get out. All you have to do is get rid of it.

IMPORTANT! Getting rid of a body bound with glue is a very unpleasant matter and will not be so easy to do.

Efficiency of application

When using different brands of glue, you must strictly follow the instructions. Deviation from them threatens with negative consequences (although not all of them pose a danger to humans). The entire process of using this product will be described below.

How to use:

  1. First you need to decide on the location of the bait. Choose the best place where rodents can quickly find it and start their “last” meal
  2. you should prepare cardboard boxes. Usually use dimensions of 10 by 10 cm (more is possible)
  3. do not forget about personal safety measures : wear rubber gloves, grab tweezers and a toothpick (in case of high toxicity of the glue)
  4. Without sparing the glue, apply it in large quantities onto the cardboard, spreading it in a circle. It would be best to cover the entire area to be sure to catch the rodent

prepare a mixture, poison for smearing near the habitat or frequent place of movement of rats, mice, you can use anything as bait: from sausage and frankfurters, to grain and bread, if a rat is caught, you will hear a strong squeak, which will indicate the successful operation of the glue, repeat these procedures until until you destroy them completely

Rats and mice are nocturnal animals, most often active in the dark . Therefore, set the trap in the late afternoon, but not during the night itself.

Installation period for catch belts

They begin to attach trapping belts to protect trees from pests before the buds swell, in order to prevent the transition of some of their species, overwintering in the ground, to the crown of the tree. In order for the protection from trapping belts to work as efficiently as possible, their installation must be correlated with the development cycle of pests:

  • Against weevils, aphids, ants, herbivorous mites, and whiteflies, trapping sticky belts are installed from March-April until June and in the fall in September-October (after harvesting the fruits). Conventional fishing belts are inspected every 2 weeks and, if necessary, replaced with new ones (old ones are burned). Fishing belts treated with adhesive aerosol are removed once at the end of the season.
  • Against caterpillars of codling moths and moths, belts are applied from the second half of June (before harvesting the fruits of early varieties) until full harvesting (September-October). If there are aphids and ants in the garden, then trapping belts are applied from early spring (when the ants wake up) until late autumn. Household ants move their “cows” from their winter quarters to trees in the spring and, conversely, return them to their winter quarters in the fall.

For garden care, treating trapping belts with a new aerosol will help get rid of pests, save health and time, and their cost will practically not change the family budget. Don't miss out on new items! This is a worthwhile find for gardeners.

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