Bird cherry pests: 8 insects that spoil healthy trees


Folk recipes


Home remedies for aphids
If cobwebs and white aphids appear on flowers, you can quickly prepare an effective remedy with your own hands:

  • Ammonia. Dilute 5 ml of ammonia in 1 liter of water. Stir, add a little laundry soap. Spray the plant. Flower aphids do not tolerate this smell, and for a sick plant there will be additional feeding.
  • Red pepper. Pour 30 g of spices into 250 ml of boiled water. Leave for 24 hours, boil for half an hour, cool, add soap.
  • Vinegar. You can fight aphids with table vinegar. For 1 liter of water you will need 20 ml of product.
  • Soda, salt. A mixture of baking soda and salt can instantly kill aphids. For 1 liter of water you will need 1 tbsp. spoon of the product. Stir well and start spraying.
  • Tar soap. If aphids appear and significantly damage the plant, buy tar soap. The drug destroys pests and heals “wounds”. Prevents the development of diseases, increases the protective functions of indoor plants. For 1 liter of warm water you will need 10 g of tar soap.
  • Cinnamon. If you have this spice at home, the problem with aphids is solved very quickly. Green aphids are especially afraid of the persistent smell of cinnamon. Add 1 teaspoon of cinnamon to 1 liter of water. The dosage does not play a special role. It is necessary to process twice every 3 days.
  • Ash. Aphids on viola really do not like this remedy. Add 20 g of ash to 1000 ml of liquid. Mix thoroughly and combine with soap base.

There are also products based on the following components:

  • milk and iodine;
  • Coca Cola;
  • garlic;
  • celandine;
  • ash;
  • mustard;
  • vodka;
  • Green soap;
  • Birch tar;
  • tobacco;
  • boric acid.

Folk remedies defeat aphids and help indoor plants cope with the consequences of pests. Gardeners and flower lovers have a huge number of recipes. Aphids are repelled by strong odors. But it is necessary to take into account the fact that the plant will be in the room, all this will have to breathe. Such a folk remedy as kerosene is best left for other cases.

Rules of application

To effectively fight aphids, there are many folk remedies. But you need to follow some rules:

  1. Spraying cucumbers using any folk remedy should be carried out only in the evening or in cloudy weather.
  2. Since the favorite habitat of aphids is the lower part of the leaves, it is necessary to wash the leaves with a sponge and any solution.
  3. Self-prepared solutions must be used on the day they are prepared. They are not subject to long-term storage.
  4. Alternate the recipes you use so that parasitic insects do not have time to develop immunity to a certain composition.
  5. Start treating plants with folk remedies when you detect the first aphid.
  6. Treat the crop every two weeks. This will prevent the aphids from reproducing.

Traditional methods

Today there are many methods for controlling aphids on raspberry bushes. The main advantage of home remedies is their complete safety.

Soap solution

To prepare the product, you need to take 10 liters of water and 200 g of laundry soap, pre-crushed. The solution should be used in the evening during dry and windless weather. But how tar soap is used against aphids is described in great detail in this article.

Decoction of tomato or potato tops

To obtain it, you need to use 1 kg of tops and 10 liters of water. Infuse the solution for 4 hours, simmer on the stove for 15 minutes, and then infuse for another 3 hours. But when using potato tops, you should not boil them, but simply pour warm water over them. But how to use a decoction of celandine against aphids is described in great detail in this article.

Tobacco infusion

To prepare this solution, you need to take 400 g of tobacco, 10 liters of water. Leave for 2 days. Apply the solution after it has been filtered.

Chamomile decoction

Take 1 kg of raw materials, pour 10 liters of water. The solution can be used only after 12 hours. Just before that, filter it and combine it with water 1:3.

Infusion of celandine

A decoction of celandine is excellent for combating red-headed aphids. To do this, take 3-4 kg of celandine, add 10 liters of water. Wait a day for the product to infuse. Before using it, the solution must be filtered.

Onion broth

Take 100 g of finely chopped onion, add 10 liters of hot water. Infuse the composition for 4-5 days. Then filter it and use it to process raspberries no more than 3 times. Spray every 5 days.

You can use the prepared solution to combat the following pests:

  • spider and strawberry mites;
  • Colorado beetle;
  • caterpillar;
  • codling moth;
  • apple sucker.

Garlic infusion

You need to finely chop 200 g of garlic, add 1 liter of water. Keep the composition in a tightly closed glass container. Leave for about 5 days. Before use, 250 ml of solution, 10 liters of water.

Hot pepper infusion

Take a pod of hot pepper and cut it into 2 parts. Pour 1 liter of water and set on fire. Boil in an enamel bowl. Store the prepared solution in a dark place. Before use, you need to take 250 ml of concentrate, 40 g of liquid soap and 10 liters of water. Treatment must be carried out 2-3 times a month.

Fighting aphids on raspberries is not difficult if you detect them in time and start processing. You can use both safe home remedies and chemicals for this. All of them quickly and effectively cope with the problem that has arisen, but only if they are used correctly.

How to get rid of growth

Before you start planting young trees and shrubs in an overgrown (abandoned) area, you must get rid of the old growth. Trees should be removed so that the growth does not appear on the site again in the future. It is always difficult to deal with the growth of plum, cherry, sea buckthorn, serviceberry, chokeberry, bird cherry, and American maple. Wild (and the American maple is always a kind of alien), they produce an abundance of root shoots. It is extremely difficult to destroy it by simple physical removal by cutting it onto a stump with pruners or a saw. The shoots will reappear on the site from year to year, trying to grow where you would not expect it at all.

Plants that form root shoots are always problematic. They should not be planted next to crops suffering from root damage (apple tree, plum tree, honeysuckle). Typically, such crops are isolated when planting by digging obstacles made of slate and other durable materials deep into the soil (at least 60–70 cm).

The most aggressive are bush and hybrid cherries (especially poorly fruiting varieties and forms), and some old raspberry varieties. Common cherries (European varieties) and self-rooted plums produce less shoots. In general, the more productive the variety, the less growth there will be.

The average amount of shoots is formed by sea buckthorn. This growth should be removed carefully (covering up the damage) so as not to cause the death of the bush.

Viburnum, golden currant, and shepherdia produce few shoots.

Remedies for growth

There are now an abundance of chemicals on the market, using which the growth can be defeated quite quickly. These drugs are called arboricides; with their help, you can not only remove shoots, but even destroy entire trees. However, such strong chemistry can harm nature and surrounding plants, so it should only be used as a last resort.

Herbicides for shoots

A little safer is the use of herbicides - weed control drugs. How to use herbicides to remove overgrowth? You can simply water the shoots and trees with herbicides, but there will be no benefit from this - the leaves and grass around will dry out, and next year the shoots will begin to grow again. Therefore, herbicides must be used to control trees and shoots in several stages.

Cutting down trees in autumn

I advise in the fall, when there is a downward flow of substances in plants, to cut down the tree at a height of about 25-30 cm, making the cut even.

Make holes in the cut

Using a drill, make vertical holes 5-10 cm deep in the cut. The holes need to be made larger, so choose the maximum diameter of the drill. The number of holes usually depends on the diameter of the cut: with a diameter of 12-16 cm holes, at least 6-8 pieces with a diameter of 1.5-2.5 cm are needed: with a diameter of 30-35 cm - 15-17 holes, etc. Drill holes closer to the edges of the cut, and not in its center - this way you will get into the conductive layers, and not into the wood.

Pour herbicide into the holes

We will pour herbicide into the resulting holes. Glyphosate-based products, such as Roundup, are suitable. You need to dilute it in a ratio of 1:3 or 1:5, then pour the resulting solution into the holes.

Cover the cut

After the herbicide has been poured into the holes, the cut should be covered with plastic wrap or a regular bag. Covering the cut is necessary so that the drug does not lose its strength under the rays of the sun, to prevent its evaporation and to protect it from external moisture, which can wash the drug or reduce its concentration. The shelter will also protect neighboring plants from the effects of the drug, because heavy rain can wash the drug out of the hole, flowing down the trunk, the herbicide will enter the zone of vital activity of other plants.

Repeat the procedure

After about 5-6 days, it is advisable to update the holes: drill deeper or drill a little wider using a thicker drill, fill them again with the drug in the same concentration and cover with film. If necessary, you can repeat this operation again, but usually two are enough.

Uproot trees in spring

After repeating the procedure, you need to leave the plants alone until spring, and in the spring you need to start uprooting already dried and completely dead plants. When uprooting, be very careful to remove all parts of the plant's root system from the soil. Even a small part of the roots remaining in the soil can lead to the restoration of growth activity, and shoots will reappear on the site.

Safety precautions when working with herbicides

When working with herbicide, do not forget about safety precautions: always wear goggles, a respirator and protective gloves. After use, they must be burned; their reuse can lead to poisoning. If the herbicide is accidentally ingested, call a doctor immediately and vomit; if it gets on the skin or eyes, rinse with plenty of water.

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Features of aphids

Knowing the characteristics of aphids, you will not confuse them with other insects. In particular, this pest can be distinguished by the following characteristics:

  • the insect's body is very soft and translucent, there is a complete absence of chitinous cover;
  • the body shade can be different (for example, black, green, white) depending on the plant where the insect has settled (color helps to camouflage);
  • the insect can have any body shape (for example, in the form of an oval, egg, ellipse or drop), based on the type of aphid;
  • the size usually does not exceed 2 mm, depending on the type of insect;
  • the body has soft fluff (it is very short) and small tubercles, which are distinguished by an asymmetrical arrangement;
  • the organs responsible for hearing and touch are the antennae, which are located on the forehead of the insect;
  • eyes can have different shades, most often red, dark brown or black; aphid vision is very good compared to other types of insects;
  • has a sucking type of mouthparts that does not allow aphids to bite; it feeds on the sap and soft structure of plants;
  • sometimes individuals may have wings;
  • there are thin and long legs, so aphids can crawl and jump;
  • the abdominal cavity contains the respiratory and internal secretion organs;
  • Often, aphids do not have a distinct gender, but there are clearly defined individuals of males or females, which subsequently pass this feature on to their descendants.

Aphids hatch from eggs that were laid in winter. They overwintered the cold season, and can usually be found on young shoots. Growing up, insects begin to suck out cell juices from garden and vegetable crops. Insects equally love seedlings and plants during fruiting in their summer cottage. Pests also often settle on flowers that grow in pots in the house, for example, domestic roses or indoor peppers.

Pests have a moderate appetite, but they reproduce very quickly. In just a couple of days, a small number of insects turns into a full-fledged army that settles on crops and destroys beds. Aphids especially love cabbage, cucumbers, peppers, and dill in the garden or in a greenhouse at the dacha. It also settles on red and black currant bushes, on tangerine trees, on lemons, on plum trees, apple trees, and cherry trees in the garden. In the flower garden, the favorite types of food are chrysanthemums, fuchsias, orchids, roses, dracaenas, kalanchoes, begonias, cyclamens, violets, geraniums, and azaleas. The so-called flower aphid lives here.

The following types of aphids are distinguished:

  • black (this is a universal pest that can be seen everywhere);
  • green (it can be seen on seedlings);
  • white (it usually lives on indoor plants);
  • floral (her favorite delicacy is flowers).

This is a visual classification that allows a person to understand what kind of enemy is in front of him and how to fight him.

Symptoms of arthritis in the fingers

Symptoms can be different, they depend on the nature of the inflammatory process (acute, subacute, chronic), as well as on the clinical form of the underlying disease.

First signs


Swelling and aching pain are the first signs of hand arthritis.
The onset of the disease in most cases is slow. There are aching pains in the hands and stiffness of movements in the morning. At first, this symptom lasts on average no more than half an hour, and then goes away. The pain is aching, constant, and its intensity increases slowly.

Less often the onset is acute. Pain appears in one or more small finger joints, accompanied by redness and swelling of the surrounding tissues. The function of the joint is impaired: it is difficult to bend and unbend, sometimes it is impossible to do this due to pain.

With the acute onset of the disease, the patient’s general condition often suffers: fever, malaise, and headache appear. If the process develops subacutely or chronically, there may be no general manifestations; changes in the affected joints may also not be too pronounced.

The most important thing to do if you experience symptoms of arthritis is to seek medical help. The sooner this happens, the greater the chance of stopping the inflammatory process at the very beginning.

Obvious symptoms

Obvious signs of chronic hand arthritis include the appearance of swelling and redness of the tissues around the affected areas of the hands, as well as the involvement of other joints in the pathological process on the same or another hand. The appearance of new foci of inflammation may be accompanied by a slight rise in body temperature, increased pain and dysfunction of the affected joints. But more often, rheumatoid exacerbations occur without general manifestations.

After some time, the inflammatory process may somewhat reduce intensity, local inflammation and general symptoms decrease. After this, the process becomes chronic. Morning stiffness of movement appears, patients note the feeling of tight gloves on their hands, which do not allow them to move. Some time after getting up in the morning and starting physical activity, this feeling decreases or even disappears. The appearance of crepitus (friction and clicking) in the affected articular joints is also characteristic.

When the patient does not receive treatment for arthritis, there is an alternation of exacerbations and remissions with constant pain and rapid formation of joint deformation (with rheumatoid arthritis) or melting of the fingertips with their shortening (with psoriatic arthritis). Arthritis of the thumb most often develops with gout, occurs with severe pain, swelling, redness, then goes away without a trace, but with frequent relapses, deformation and loss of function of the joint also develops.

Dangerous symptoms

Emergency medical attention is required if the following symptoms of finger arthritis appear:

  • high body temperature (38 – 39°) for 5 or more days;
  • a sharp rise in temperature, increased inflammation and pain in the joint with an already existing inflammatory process - may indicate the onset of suppuration;
  • involvement of new small or large joints in the pathological process;
  • the appearance of blackened tissue on the fingertips (necrosis) in psoriatic arthritis.

If such symptoms appear, you should immediately consult a doctor.

Species diversity of aphids

The following types of aphids are found on indoor flowers.

melon aphid

Most often, melons, or also called “white aphids,” attack plants. It is light green in color and has a drop-shaped body. Among agricultural crops he prefers cucumbers and cotton. Parasitizes more than 300 plant species.

Black aphid

The name “black aphid” refers to species characterized by a dark, almost black color. Their body is round, their skin is denser than that of the white one.

Root aphid

This is a highly specialized pest that parasitizes small roots. Signs to notice an infection:

  • wilting of the plant;
  • growth slowdown;
  • yellowing of leaves.

The insects themselves can only be seen during transplantation.

In the case of root aphids, the plant requires urgent help. It is carefully shaken off from the roots. The soil is shed with a systemic insecticide - Aktara.

Traditional methods of fighting aphids

Where would we be without folk measures to combat aphids: everyone probably remembers a bucket of kerosene and a broom, which we used to shake pests into it to their certain death. And now skilled gardeners have developed their own folk remedies, which, one might say, are no less effective than harmful chemicals, although, perhaps, they are still not as active.

Some home remedies we can recommend:

  • Ash-soap solution. Pour 2-3 glasses of ash into 10 liters of warm water, leave for 2-3 days, strain, dissolve a piece of finely grated laundry soap in the solution and sprinkle during the budding period of fruit and berry crops.
  • Garlic-dandelion infusion. Soak finely chopped dandelion plants (green mass and roots) and heads of garlic, 400 and 200 g, respectively, in 10 liters of warm water. Leave the mixture to infuse for 2-3 hours, strain and use for spraying during the budding phase and after flowering.
  • Finely chop the onion peels together with the garlic (you can also use the heads) and add warm water. Leave for 2-3 days. Strain, dilute the resulting solution 3 times and use it for spraying, and send the fermented mass to the compost pit.

How to treat the garden in spring

“At the end of March - beginning of April, it is advisable to treat black currants, as well as other pome and stone fruit crops in the countryside with a 3% solution of Bordeaux mixture. This is a means to combat fungal diseases, which also kills pests that overwinter on the plant - aphids and mites,” says Lyudmila Pashnina, an agronomist with 25 years of experience. – You can buy the ready-made mixture in the store or prepare it yourself. To do this, you need to dilute 400 grams of quicklime (calcium oxide) in 5 liters of water, after taking a 10-liter bucket. Separately, dilute 300 grams of copper sulfate in 5 liters of boiling water, and then pour the liquid into the “milk of lime” in a stream. Instead of Bordeaux mixture, black currants can be sprayed with copper oxychloride. The main thing is to carry out the treatment before flowering.”

There are also many chemicals for garden treatment and folk remedies. For example, an infusion of marigolds, dandelions, celandine, or tomato tops. To do this, pour boiling water over a third of a bucket of green mass and let it sit.

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How to deal with aphids in the garden

Naturally, it is impossible to leave everything as is, so as not to lose a significant part of the future harvest. The fight against aphids should be started as soon as it is discovered. You can save a tree using folk remedies, agrochemicals, or attracting natural enemies of the pest. Each of these methods has its own advantages and disadvantages. Which one would be more appropriate to use depends on the desires and capabilities of the gardener.

Folk remedies

If there are still few aphids, it is better to try to get rid of them using water, that is, simply wash them off with a stream of water. But this method is only suitable if the pests have not yet had time to multiply significantly.

In addition, you can fight with folk remedies. They are not as aggressive as industrially produced insecticides, and are not harmful to plants or poison them. But it should be borne in mind that folk remedies are not so effective - you will have to process cherries not just once per season, but several times.

Soap and ash

Recipes for killing cherry aphids:

  • Soap solution. You will need to dissolve shavings from ½ piece of laundry soap (150 ml liquid or 150 g tar) in 10 liters of hot water. Spray the cherries with this solution.
  • Infusion of ash. This product is doubly useful: it not only destroys aphids, but also feeds the cherries with mineral elements. It’s easy to prepare: pour 0.3–0.5 kg of ash into 5 liters of boiling water and leave to steep in a sealed container for a day. Then add another 5 liters of water, add 50 g of any soap and use the infusion for spraying.

According to gardeners, these aphid repellents are time-tested and show good results after the first use.

Plant infusions

No less effective in the fight against aphids are plants with insecticidal properties, which can be found in any farm.

Top 10 herbal infusions against aphids:

  1. Onion. Take 30 g of husk, pour 1 liter of boiling water, leave for 6 hours. Add a little laundry soap to the liquid to make the product stick to the leaves.
  2. Garlic. Leave 200 g of crushed cloves in 1 liter of water in a sealed container for 5 days. Before use, dilute 25 g of infusion in a bucket of water.
  3. Tobacco. Infuse 200 g of dry leaves in 5 liters of water for 2 days. Add another 5 liters of water.
  4. Chamomile. Leave 100 g of inflorescences and herbs in 1 liter of water for 12 hours. Working solution: dilute the infusion with water 1 to 3, add 5 g of soap for every 1 liter of the resulting liquid.
  5. Marigold. Fill the bucket halfway with crushed plants (along with flowers), add water to the top, leave for 2 days, and add 50 g of soap to the bucket before spraying.
  6. Hot pepper. Infuse 1 kg of fresh pepper in pods or 0.3 kg of dry pepper in 10 liters for 24 hours. Dilute with water 1 to 10.
  7. Pine. Infuse 1 kg of pine needles in 4 liters of water for a week. The concentration of the working solution is 1:1.
  8. Citrus. Pour 100 g of dry crusts into 1 liter of hot water and leave for 3 days.
  9. Potatoes or tomatoes. Leave 1 kg of fresh or 0.5 kg of dry tops in a bucket of water for 6 hours.
  10. Celandine. 400 g of fresh herb or 100 g of dry herb, pour 1 liter of boiling water, leave for 1–1.5 days.

You need to spray thoroughly so that the solution gets on both surfaces of the leaves and shoots. Cherries can be processed during budding, after flowering, during the period before the berries ripen, but no later than 2 weeks before they are collected.

Agrochemistry

Those who want to deal with black aphids “immediately and forever” will, of course, have to choose synthetic insecticides. They act quickly and most effectively, but you need to remember that they can only be used at the beginning of the season, and not when the berries are already ripe.

Insecticides you can use in your home garden include:

  • "Spark";
  • "Fitoverm";
  • "Commander";
  • "Aktara";
  • "Corado";
  • "Confidor";
  • "Fufanon" and others.

It is recommended to spray cherries for prevention even before the buds open - this will destroy overwintered aphids. And during the season it is better to alternate drugs so that the pest cannot get used to one of them.

The last treatment before picking berries must be carried out no later than the time specified in the instructions for the drug as the waiting period!

A few more plants that will help you

Nature “bestows” us with many pests, but it also gives us methods to combat them. For example, an ordinary field dandelion helps get rid of aphids on apple trees. It can also be used against honeysuckers or spider mites. In the spring, when dandelions just begin to bloom, their green mass is collected for infusion, and in the fall the rhizomes are dug up and stored in the basement, like carrots.

To prepare the infusion you will need 400 g of leaves or 300 g of chopped roots. Fill them with 10 liters of warm water and leave for 2 hours. Strain thoroughly and spray the plants. For apple trees, this procedure must be carried out twice: during bud break and after flowering.

If you add garlic and pepper to the dandelion, the infusion will become more effective. Pass 400 g of dandelion leaves and roots through a meat grinder along with 200 g of garlic, add a tablespoon of pepper and dry mustard. Pour 10 liters of water and leave for 2-3 hours. This solution works great against both apple aphids (including melon and cabbage aphids) and ticks.

Dandelion will be an excellent assistant in pest control

The plum tree is the most susceptible to aphid attack of all trees, and not only because of the sticky leaves, but also due to the many basal young shoots that hatch every spring. Be sure to delete them! And, even if you haven’t noticed aphids on the surface of the nursery, spray the plum tree. You can use tomato tops for this. Grind 5 kg of fresh or 2 kg of dried tops, pour boiling water over them and simmer for 30 minutes over low heat. After the solution has cooled, strain it, dilute 3 liters of infusion and 30 g of laundry soap in 10 liters of water.

Not only for fruit trees - apple, pear, plum, cherry, but also for flowering shrubs such as lilac, bird cherry, jasmine, spraying with pine infusion is very useful. For it you will need 2 kg of spruce and pine needles of annual growth. Fill them with 8 liters of water and leave for a week in a cool, dark place, stirring daily. The resulting spray solution must be diluted in a ratio of 1 liter per bucket of water.

Additional preventative measures

It is better to prevent than to frantically struggle with an existing problem. For preventive purposes it is worth:

  1. Promptly remove dry bark, damaged parts of plants, and collect leaves that attack. Afterwards, be sure to burn all waste.
  2. Dig up the soil near trees (berries and fruits).
  3. Plant repellent plants.
  4. Get rid of ants. This is where kerosene and gun belts will come to the rescue.
  5. Carry out preventive spraying against aphids 2 times a year.


If you listen to the recommendations, you can protect the plants in your garden plot from the invasion of aphids and other harmful insects.
Plants with aphids will not only look depressing, but will also not produce decent fruit. You can fight the pest using traditional methods, special insecticides, or use biological agents. Preventive treatment of plants at the appropriate time is mandatory.

Biological products

You can protect bird cherry from aphid attacks using products based on waste products of fungi, bacteria, and other microorganisms. The action of biological products is not as rapid as that of insecticides, but does not cause harm to the environment.

It is necessary to spray the plant in dry, windless weather. Rain significantly reduces the effectiveness of the drug. The procedure should be repeated after 14 days. For prevention, use the drug once a month.

The most popular remedies for aphids on bird cherry:

The drugs disrupt the natural processes in the body of insects and lead to death.

It is necessary to begin pest control in late autumn, removing weeds from the garden, digging up the soil, pouring warm water over the bird cherry, the effect is consolidated in early spring. Preventive measures are carried out throughout the warm season.

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Chemicals

Black aphids appear on jasmine in early spring, so it is necessary to begin active action before the leaves bloom. Jasmine should be sprayed with broad-spectrum insecticidal preparations. They destroy insects within 24 hours and retain their properties for up to 30 days.

Timely treatment of jasmine in early spring provides the plant with protection from aphids for the flowering season. Spray again at the end of summer. You can use tools such as:

  • drug Iskra;
  • Karbofos;
  • drug Tanrek;
  • Aktellik;
  • Actara remedy.

Jasmine is one of the most common garden shrubs. The plant pleases with long flowering, pleasant, rich aroma. To see all this beauty, you need to monitor the condition of the bush and take timely measures.

Wood rot

Wood rot begins to develop due to the tinder fungus. The plant becomes infected through wounds on the bird cherry bark. As wood rots, there is a change in its physical and chemical properties, as well as structure. If you promptly detect the point of penetration of the fungus and strip it down to healthy wood, and also cover it with clay mixed with fungicide, this can save the plant. If the disease is advanced, then the bird cherry can no longer be saved.

How to determine that aphids have appeared on a plum


Plum aphids are parasitized by plum or mealy (pollinated), black and other varieties. This name comes from the appearance of the pest - the pale green body of the insect seems to be sprinkled with flour. Pests spread through plum plantings using wings, flying from tree to tree. It is not the adults that overwinter in the soil, but the eggs, from which the aphids emerge in the spring.

The body of the insect reaches 2-3 mm in length and is difficult to notice on a tree with the naked eye. Aphids begin to feed on plant sap in the spring, as soon as warm weather arrives. But colonies of the pest are noticed, as a rule, after the plum blossoms, when all the young shoots of the plant are covered with hordes of insects.

Aphids collect on young plum shoots, on foliage, and on the underside of the leaf blade. The twigs can be completely covered with small insects, the affected foliage curls up in the shape of a boat. Tender young shoots become twisted and deformed.

Often the companions of aphids are ants, which even graze these insects on plants and protect them from natural enemies (ladybugs). For an ant, an aphid is something like a cash cow. It secretes a substance containing sugars that ants love. The presence of anthills on the site is another reason to inspect the trees for aphids.

Where and where can they appear, what do they look like in the photo?

Aphids can appear on any plant, but there are some favorite ones, for example:

  • black currant;
  • roses;
  • plum and other fruit trees;
  • indoor flowers.

Reference. The preferences of aphids differ depending on their type, but absolutely any tree, shrub or flower can be affected by this insect.

Aphid larvae can be introduced with garden soil; their spread is facilitated by wind and ants, which carry the insects on themselves from plant to plant. Aphids overwinter well in various hard-to-reach places on tree bark and plant roots. The main reproduction of the insect occurs through wingless females, which reproduce without fertilization.

At the end of May-June, flying individuals appear, which help spread their offspring over a greater distance and infect a large number of plants. The wind helps to increase the infested area, and the aphids fly away over tens of kilometers. Then mating occurs, after which the female lays eggs in secluded places and the cycle repeats.

Look at the photo to see what plants affected by aphids look like.

What aphid attacked your plants?

Several species of aphids can simultaneously feast on one bed, because these insects, although they have food preferences, are quite indiscriminate and are ready to eat almost anything. Therefore, before you start fighting, determine what kind of aphid attacked your plantings.

Type of aphidWhat plants does it affect?Female color/larval colorPeculiarities
Melon or cotton aphidcucumbers, tomatoes, melons, watermelons, peppers, gerberas, chrysanthemums and more than 300 speciesyellow or dark green/yellow or greendevelopment from a larva to a mature individual occurs in just 6-11 days; winters on a “shepherd’s purse”
Hawthorn aphidcarrots, celery, dill, parsnips and other umbelliferous plants (affects the stem and root collar)greenish/brown or blackoverwinters on perennial weeds; the leaves and soil under the infected plant are covered with a sooty coating
Pea aphidpeas, beans, beans, lentils and other legumesgreen/greendestroys young shoots of legumes; winters on clover
Umbrella aphidcarrots, celery, dill, parsnips and other umbelliferous (affects leaves and umbels)greenish/brown or blackoverwinters on perennial weeds; the leaves and soil under the infected plant are covered with a sooty coating
Cabbage aphidcabbage, radish, rutabaga and other cruciferous vegetablesgreen with a gray waxy coating/gray-green, white-greenmost dangerous in dry, hot summers; afraid of lacewings, ladybugs, aphidius flies, syrphid flies and hoverflies
Gooseberry shoot aphidgooseberries, currants, honeysuckle and other berry bushespale green/pale greenappears in early spring at the bud stage; actively spread by ants
Leaf gall aphidred, white and black currantsgreenish-brown/yellow-whitecan be detected by the appearance of red and yellow swellings on currant leaves; found on bushes only in the first half of summer
Greenhouse aphidpeppers, tomatoes, lettuce, beets, parsleyyellow-green/greenprefers young leaves; carries more than 100 viruses; easily withstands fluctuations in temperature and humidity
Common potato aphidcucumbers, tomatoes, eggplants, many indoor plantsgreen or red/greenish graycauses discoloration of leaf veins, chlorosis and necrosis of leaves; forms honeydew on the upper side of the leaves, which is then covered with sooty fungi; winters on woodlice, bindweed, thistle
Rose green aphidrosesgreen/greenthe first “batch” appears in April; reduces the decorative value of plants
Beet root aphidbeets, spinach, quinoayellowish white/whiteoverwinters on the remains of weeds and root crops; actively reproduces in insufficiently moistened areas
Beet leaf aphidbeets, beans, tomatoes, eggplants, carrotsshiny green/black-greenwinters on lingonberries, mock orange, reeds or viburnum; reduces the quality and yield of seeds

House aphids are not a separate species; many types of outdoor aphids can grow on indoor plants.

Spring work to protect plants from aphids

  • As soon as the snow melts, inspect the garden crops, be sure to carry out sanitary pruning, and take out the trash.
  • Discovered anthills that have survived since the fall must be destroyed. When the first ants appear on the tree trunks, repeat the whitewashing and spray the trees with the preparation.
  • Install trapping belts, soaking them in poisonous powder or solution. Apply special glue to the strain and attach a hunting belt. The ants will not be able to overcome the obstacle and will die, along with the load of aphid eggs.
  • Aphids are scary because of their omnivorous nature. More than 4,000 thousand species of aphids and the vast majority harm not one, but several crops. Therefore, even before the buds begin to open, it is necessary to first spray all fruit trees with solutions of nicotine sulfate or nitrophen at the dose recommended in the explanatory note to the drug. Use more modern medications recommended in your region.
  • Since berries produce crops early (raspberries, currants, gooseberries, etc.), before buds begin to bloom, bathe them in hot water (70-80 degrees) without pesticides.
  • In spring and summer, do not overfeed plants with nitrogen. The enhanced development of young vegetative mass will provide aphids with a comfortable life, while elastic leaves and young shoots with dense skin are inaccessible to them.
  • During this period, the optimal watering is sprinkling. It will wash away the honeydew, which attracts ants, aphid eggs and the aphids themselves, which, once on the ground, die. There is no need to once again treat trees with pesticides. Stop irrigation by sprinkling and switch to the ground method only during flowering, so as not to wet the pollen.

Signs of aphids

Affected plants cannot produce a good harvest, so most gardeners are interested in the question of signs of damage to green spaces by aphids. Depending on the type of insect, the following signs of damage can be identified:

  • the plant begins to dry out,
  • its leaves begin to turn yellow and curl into a tube, resembling a house,
  • underdevelopment of fruits,
  • deformation of branches,
  • sticky film of white or yellowish color on the surface of buds and leaves.

The active breeding period for aphids is considered to be the beginning of summer. The offspring appears in this case with wings, which allows them to cause colossal damage to all nearby plants. Insects move from a dead bush to a nearby healthy bush and destroy it.

Symbiosis with ants also contributes to the spread of aphids throughout the area. The insect secretes honeydew, which ants adore. To get more sweet liquid, ants guard and transfer it to another territory. When ants appear on their site, many gardeners begin to carefully check the plantings for the presence of aphids.

Anti-acne peelings

Peeling (exfoliation, exfoliation of dead skin cells) is recommended to be used regularly not only to prevent the appearance of acne, but also to treat it.

As an exfoliant, preference is given to glycolic acid, and it is better to use masks with this active ingredient rather than detergents or leave the exfoliant on the skin for a while so that it works better.

Too frequent and intense peeling is not recommended, as this can lead to irritation, peeling, and dry skin. For most people, it is enough to perform the procedure one to three times a week or less, depending on individual skin type and the severity of inflammation.

What are aphids and how are they harmful to your summer cottage?

These small insects, measuring from 5 to 7 mm, are familiar to all gardeners. They pierce the surface of leaves, buds or shoots with their proboscis and suck out their juice. Because of this, the plant weakens and becomes very sensitive to viral diseases. Several species of aphids live exclusively on plant roots, damaging them.

There are winged and wingless forms of aphids. Colonies of winged aphids can spread up to 25 km with the help of the wind and lay eggs for the winter. Wingless reproduce asexually, laying eggs in spring and summer.

In addition to the fact that aphids themselves harm plants, they attract ants, acting in symbiosis with them. Aphids secrete honeydew, a sweet substance derived from plant sap, which is very attractive to ants, which protect the aphid colony from attacks by other insects.

Here are a few symptoms that will help you recognize an aphid infestation on plants in your garden:

  • young shoots and buds are covered with clusters of black or brown aphids visible to the naked eye;
  • there are even more insects on the underside of the leaves;
  • white particles are visible among the insects, this is old skin shed by aphids;
  • damage to leaves and buds is indicated by the fact that they are covered with sticky honeydew;
  • leaves that are affected stop developing, curl downwards and eventually dry out;
  • the affected buds do not open, which means that fruits will not develop from them.

Aphids have a detrimental effect on young tree shoots

Aphids are omnivores, so the damage they cause can be enormous. There are many types of aphids; almost any cultivated plant in your garden or vegetable garden can become a host for this parasitic insect. Over time, some species have become so adapted to the peculiarities of the climate and local flora that in the summer they live on vegetable crops - peppers, tomatoes, cucumbers, and in the fall they move to fruit trees to provide themselves with wintering.

Bird cherry pests

Aphid pests are divided into two main types - those that attack green shoots and those that eat fruits. There are much fewer of the latter, but they also exist. Let's get to know them better.

False tinder

False tinder fungus on a tree.

The tinder fungus leaves white rot and black streaks on the tree. Over time, the wood turns yellowish-white and begins to crumble. After a while, the tree begins to fade. To prevent the appearance, it is necessary to carry out timely pruning, seal wounds and cracks.

It is difficult to treat tinder fungus, because its growth already means damage to at least half of the trunk. If a mushroom appears on a branch, it is better to cut it off immediately. It is necessary to cut out the infected area on the trunk and treat the cut area with a biological product.

Bird cherry leaf beetle

Leaf beetle

A small yellow beetle whose larvae are yellow. There are small dark spots on the wings. They have 6 thoracic legs. The beetle chews holes in the leaves, weakening the plant. A large number of insects leave only veins on the leaves.

If all agricultural techniques are carried out in a timely manner, spraying with insecticides and autumn procedures for cleaning the trunk and trunk circle are carried out. A good method of disposal is biological products.

Ermine bird cherry moth

Ermine moth.

This moth species is a small silvery moth. The caterpillar has a yellowish-green color and black warts. Insects overwinter in egg shells.

In April they begin to feed on buds and leaves. They gnaw holes and harm the plant. By the dense layer of cobwebs, you can understand that pests have appeared on the tree.

The simplest and most effective way to protect against ermine moths and their voracious larvae is biological products. They act on larvae and adults and are very effective.

Rose leafhopper

Rose leafhopper.

The insect is yellow in color. The size reaches 3 mm. The location of the eggs in winter is bird cherry branches. With the arrival of spring, the larvae suck out the sap. Yellow dots appear on the leaves. Affected foliage looks like marble.

Insects must be controlled with insecticidal preparations or biological agents. If the spread is severe, the affected parts of the shoots are removed.

Aphid

Aphids on bird cherry.

Aphids are a dangerous insect for many garden trees. It destroys young shoots. There are a huge number of varieties of aphids.

But the aphid that eats bird cherry is a separate species. This aphid lives only on this plant. Insects appear earlier than other relatives and are rare.

The fight against aphids must be carried out comprehensively. A small amount is removed using traditional methods, and mass distribution is destroyed using chemicals. Toxic chemicals must be used according to instructions.

Plant bug

Plant bug.

Bedbugs pose a great danger. If there is no large area and located in an open area, the invasion of these parasites can be avoided. Bugs suck the juice from young fruits. The berries become tasteless.

Insects can be controlled using chemicals. They are used in spring or after harvest. No chemicals should be used during fruit ripening.

Weevil

Weevil beetle.

Bird cherry weevils lay fertile eggs in young fruits. After a while, larvae emerge and eat the seeds.

The seed is the basis of the fruit development program. Without the seed, the fruit becomes small and sour. Interestingly, this pest is also dangerous for cherries.

The easiest way to collect weevil beetles is by hand. If agricultural practices are followed, infection can be completely avoided. In especially advanced cases, it is necessary to use chemicals.

hawthorn

Hawthorn butterfly.

This insect only harms bird cherry. The hawthorn is a large white butterfly with black veins on its leaves. The caterpillars gnaw on the leaves, rolling them up.

The worst thing in this case is damage to aesthetic properties. The leaves dry out and the nests hang on the cobwebs. After winter, hawthorn grows quickly and feeds on everything green - leaves, flowers, buds.

Biological drugs are effective, but not always. The hawthorn hides its nest, covering it with cobwebs. It is very convenient to remove them manually.

Treatment with chemicals

Chemicals also help in the fight against aphids. First of all, it is worth noting that they need to be used at the right time. The branches need to be processed until the leaves open and the first buds appear. After flowering, you can use chemicals no later than 20 days before picking the berries, so as not to harm your health.

You can use drugs such as “Aktara”, “Iskra” or “Aktofit” to control aphids. These insecticides will also help get rid of other pests. For greater efficiency, treatment of bushes should be carried out twice, taking a short break of 10 days.

General clinical recommendations

For patients suffering from arthritis of the fingers, it is recommended:

  • lead a healthy lifestyle, toughen up;
  • be treated in a timely manner, eliminate all foci of infection that may become a trigger in the development of exacerbations of arthritis;
  • get rid of bad habits;
  • eat right, regulate sleep and wakefulness;
  • if arthritis worsens, do not put stress on your fingers, do not do housework, including washing dishes;
  • during remission, do physical exercises for your arms at home; classes should be held daily;
  • completely abandon self-medication and adhere to the doctor’s recommendations in everything.

Prevention of arthritis of the fingers

Preventing arthritis is especially important for people who have a genetic predisposition to this disease (close relatives with this pathology). In order to maintain health, they need to adhere to the following recommendations:

  • you should not overload your hands with heavy physical or long-term painstaking work, including at home;
  • you should not overcool, you should avoid overcooling your hands;
  • lead a healthy lifestyle, eat right, toughen up;
  • engage in feasible sports, conduct daily training;
  • avoid prolonged stress.

Diet

Special nutrition is required only for gouty arthritis of the fingers. The diet of such patients should not contain strong broths, offal, meat of young animals, alcohol, sorrel, lettuce, strong tea, coffee, or chocolate.

If you have gouty arthritis, you should follow a diet

In other cases, it is enough to adhere to the principles of a healthy diet: eat lean meat and dairy products, fish (fatty sea fish is healthy), grains, cereals, vegetables, and fruits. High-calorie foods, sweets, baked goods, spicy seasonings, fried and smoked foods should be avoided. Meals should be regular.

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