How to make an effective mousetrap yourself from available materials + useful tips on production and operation

Home House and cottage Do it yourself

A do-it-yourself mousetrap made from scrap materials can cope with the task of catching no worse than an industrial product of a similar purpose. In addition, some types of homemade mouse traps do not kill the animal, but only limit its freedom of movement. This moment attracts those who, for whatever reason, do not want to cause the death of an animal and are ready to take on the burden of taking it away from home in order to release it.

Despite their cute appearance, mice can bring a lot of trouble into your home. The smallest is the noise at night created by rodents moving in the cavities of the building. Often, following the smell of food, mice encounter obstacles to their movement in the form of various building structures. If such parts are made of materials that are accessible to the incisors of mice, the animals will damage them.

Mice cause damage not only by eating food. Naturally, a mouse that gets to them is not able to eat everything, but you are unlikely to want to use food that mice have walked through. One of the negative aspects of being around mice is their smell. It is not only unpleasant, but also very persistent.

Mice can cause a fire - these rodents are not averse to tasting the insulation of laid electrical wires, which will cause a short circuit that provokes a fire. In addition, mice are very fond of such a habitat as polystyrene foam, which is easy to gnaw through passages. They often settle in places where polystyrene foam was used as insulation.

Mice are animals that excrete excrement directly as it accumulates in the corresponding organs. Therefore, if mice have entered food storage areas, they will not only gnaw through the packaging, but will also leave behind traces of their visit in the form of excrement, which, naturally, will render the food supplies unusable.

The main danger lurking in mice

Mice are not just unpleasant neighbors, but also quite dangerous animals for human health. These rodents are natural carriers of microbes that cause diseases such as:

• various lichens and fungal diseases;
• salmonellosis;
• toxoplasmosis;
• leptospirosis;
• rabies;
• tularemia;
• pseudotuberculosis;
• rickettsiosis.

In addition, a mouse can become a source of infection with the rabies virus. The mouse itself does not bite a person, but it can manage to bite a cat that is hunting for it and infect it. Subsequently, the already sick cat attacks people.

The negative aspects of the neighborhood of mice are not limited to those listed, but the examples given are enough to take all measures to remove these rodents.

Effective mousetraps are often relevant not only for private houses in rural areas, but also for residents of apartment buildings in the city. With the onset of cold weather, rodents move to where it is warmer, and channels for laid communications and ventilation shafts make it possible to reach the upper floors. If food leftovers are not removed from the apartment at night, the trash can is left open, and there is general unsanitary conditions, there is a high probability of mice appearing.

Harm from mice to humans

In a relatively short period of time, mice can cause serious damage to stored vegetables and fruits and spoil cereals and pasta. Pests chew wires, make nests in various places and carry dangerous infections. Diseases caused by them include:

• leptospirosis,
• hemorrhagic fever,
• tularemia,
• pseudotuberculosis,
• salmonellosis,
• helminthiasis

These diseases can be transmitted:

• by mouse bites,
• in direct contact with their feces,
• by consuming contaminated food or drinks,
• through the bites of parasites that live on rodents,
• when inhaling air containing infectious agents.

The pests are incredibly prolific - they can bear their first offspring as early as the eighth week after their birth, and replenish the population five to ten times each year. On average, an individual lives for about a year in natural conditions. It is surprising that rodents have not yet overrun the entire planet with such indicators. This does not happen only because the total number of mice is regulated by both natural factors and human intervention.

Mousetrap or cat

Cats are often cited as the best remedy for mice. However, this is not true. Firstly, as practice shows, the smell of a cat is not a factor for mice that forces them to immediately leave the place where such a mark is present. Secondly, the cat hunts mice only when it is hungry, and, having eaten, stops hunting. There is no strict scientific data on how many mice a cat catches. The only statistically reliable can be considered the recorded count of mice caught by the Scottish cat Towser over the course of twenty-one years. Their number was 28,899 rodents, but if we consider the day, then this is only 4 mice during the cat’s waking period.

The famous Austrian ethologist Konrad Lorenz cites an interesting case in his books. The mousetrap, made from a handy object such as a bucket, caught about two dozen mice overnight. A cat was thrown among the rodents. The pet quickly strangled 4 mice, grabbed one of the victims in its teeth and jumped out of the bucket. Having eaten the prey, the cat did not return to the trap, but calmly went home.

Unlike a live mouse trap, properly made traps are more effective and permanently control rodents.

Algorithm for finding a pet rat that has escaped from its cage

You should immediately understand that the search for a pet rat that has escaped from its cage can take a long time, so there is no need to panic. You should not use rat traps in such a situation - they can harm your pet. There are general recommendations that allow you to find your pet as quickly as possible. First, you need to neutralize all the ways an animal can leave the apartment: close the entrance doors, windows, vents, doors to the balcony and interior doors, which will also make the search operation easier. During the entire search, you must carefully move around the apartment so as not to crush your pet. The same rule must be followed when sitting on the sofa or going to bed. After the rat has disappeared, you need to lower the toilet lid, flush the bathtub and sink if there is water in it, and also remove the dishes in the sink to prevent drowning. Having completed all the preparatory activities, you can begin the search.

First of all, an audit of cabinets, chests of drawers, high-rise shelves and other surfaces is carried out. Mice and rats are climbers, so you should not underestimate them; the animal can be anywhere. You need to inspect all the cracks behind the furniture, the under-bed space and even the oven. The inspection should be carried out very carefully, dividing the rooms into sectors and looking through every centimeter, and soon the loss will be discovered.

To catch a rat, it is absolutely not necessary to purchase expensive traps - you just need to make a trap at home, which will not be inferior in efficiency to store-bought options. The owner who has suffered from rodents is provided with a wide selection of homemade rat trap designs that provide not only isolation of the animal, but also instant killing of the rat.

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Types and Types of Mouse Traps

Broadly speaking, mouse traps can be classified according to their capture methods.

1. Mechanical traps.
2. Sticky traps.
3. Electronic traps.

Various poisoned baits are also used to kill small rodents. The use of such baits has some limitations:

• it is undesirable to use if there is a possibility of poisoned baits being eaten not only by mice, but also by domestic animals;
• allergic reactions may occur in people;
• if the corpse of a poisoned mouse is eaten by a pet (dog, cat), it may be poisoned;
• If a poisoned mouse dies within the house in a hard-to-reach place, for example, under the floor, the smell of decomposition will bring many unpleasant moments.

Unlike poisoned baits, traps do not have the listed negative features.

A piece of paper can help make sure that there are mice in the house. It needs to be crumpled up and placed overnight in front of the hole that could serve as the entrance to the burrow. If in the morning it turns out that the piece of paper has been discarded, it means that uninvited guests have indeed appeared in the house.

Mouse baits

It is believed that a mouse will never refuse a piece of cheese, but this statement is fundamentally wrong: the cheese will be eaten if there are no more delicious delicacies in the house.

Read more ► How to get rid of mice: effective control methods, the best remedy

What is best to place in a trap so that the tailed animal is sure to climb into it:

1. Smoked lard takes first place in the ranking of mouse delicacies. Not a single rodent can resist its smell.
2. Aromatic vegetable oil is second on the list. Mice love both sunflower and olive oils.
3. Wheat bread is in third place. To enhance the attractiveness of the bait, you can moisten a piece of white bread with aromatic oil.
4. Roasted seeds - all types are extremely attractive to animals. For bait you only need to take a few pieces. Pumpkin seeds are preferable.
5. Nuts - hazelnuts, peanuts or almonds will be an excellent bait.
6. Raw smoked sausage is similar in aroma to smoked lard and can successfully replace it as bait.
7. A piece of smoked fish is another tasty dish for tailed invaders.
8. Fragrant baked goods with the smell of vanilla - the product will attract animals with its sweet smell.

Advantages of self-made traps

Trade organizations offer many different devices designed for catching small rodents. But self-made traps are still somewhat preferable for a number of reasons:

• Since self-made traps are made from existing materials at hand, they will not require purchasing costs;
• Unlike some types of poisoned baits that cause allergies or have an unpleasant odor, using homemade traps will not require you to leave the house;
• Self-made traps do not pose a danger to small children;
• Possible repeated use without unnecessary costs;
• If it breaks, it's easy to make a new one.

The main advantages of such devices

One of the main advantages of an electronic rat trap is the “hygienic” nature of its use. This compares favorably with poisons, which have to be spread throughout the apartment (and then be afraid that neither the product itself nor the rat poisoned by it will be found by pets), as well as mechanical traps, which, when triggered, often leave dried blood stains on the floor.

In addition, electric exterminators are for the most part very effective: in practice, with their help it is often possible to get rid of even the most cautious rats (who are wise with experience and no longer touch the poison and bypass ordinary crush traps).

Other advantages of electric rat traps:

• The compactness of the device, the ability to install it in fairly secluded and hard-to-reach places;
• Humaneness (compared to some other types of devices) - the animal dies in a trap almost instantly, without suffering from pain. This makes electric rat traps significantly different, for example, from glue traps, in which a rat can die for several days;
• Ease of use - the trap does not need to be prepared for a long time, and even disposal of the animal’s corpse is very simple and takes less than a minute (you don’t even have to touch the animal’s corpse).

Meanwhile, with all the above advantages, the electric rat trap also has certain disadvantages...

Traps made from cans and buckets

The easiest and most effective traps to make can be made from scrap materials available in almost every household, such as buckets and various jars.

Using glass jars from eaten homemade preparations for the winter, you can make a simple trap. A ½ liter jar is enough. Using chewing gum or other adhesive material, such as a piece of insulating tape, a string with bait attached to it is attached to the bottom of the jar. The length of the string is chosen so that the bait hangs freely in the jar turned upside down, and the rodent needs to pull the string to make it more convenient to eat the treat. The jar is turned over and placed so that it rests with the edge of the upper cut of the vessel on some object that is in a state of unstable equilibrium, for example, on a large diameter coin placed on its edge. The diameter of the coin should be such that the resulting gap gives the rodent the opportunity to freely penetrate under the jar. A mouse that sneaks into the jar takes the bait, begins to pull it towards itself, the balance is disturbed and the coin, and after it the jar falls - the mouse finds itself under the jar and cannot get out on its own.

The disadvantages of such a trap include its disposability, that is, until the mouse is removed from the jar, which will have to be installed again above the bait, no other mice will be caught. The simplest traps made from a bucket and available materials do not have this drawback.

To make the simplest version of such a trap, you only need a bucket and a sheet of paper, the area of ​​which allows you to cover the bucket. Even a newspaper will do. The bucket is covered with paper, in which slits are made radially from the center. Bait is placed in the center, for example, grain is poured. You can also hang the bait over the center, from which the slots radiate radially. They also create an opportunity for mice to climb to the top edge of the bucket by installing a flat bar at an angle (this part of homemade traps is called a “zadnik”). Attracted by the smell of the bait, the mouse climbs the rail and rushes towards the food - under the influence of the weight of the rodent, the paper bends in the slots and the mouse falls into the bucket.

Using a bucket you can make another type of trap. In addition to the bucket you will need:

• ruler or thin wooden strip;
• a piece of wire;
• spoke.

The knitting needle is attached across the ruler and, acting as a support, is placed on the top edge of the bucket. The length of the rack or ruler should be such that one end rests on the edge of the bucket, and the other end hangs above the bottom. The bait is placed at this end. The trap is installed so that the rodent can easily reach the ruler. The second end of the ruler is attached to the edge of the bucket with a thread of such length that the ruler can rotate at an angle of 70 to 85 degrees. Under the weight of the mouse moving towards the bait, the ruler will rotate and the rodent will slide into the bucket. The thread will hold the second end of the ruler, and under the influence of its weight it will return to its original position. If the bait is firmly attached to the ruler, the trap will be ready for use again.

It is easy to make a mouse trap from scrap materials, the principle of which is based on the inability of the mouse to stay on a rotating surface. Metal cans, drink packaging, and plastic bottles can be used as a part to ensure effective operation of the trap. How to make such a trap can be seen in the photo.

The bait is attached to the outside of the jar or bottle, which will rotate under the influence of the rodent's weight and the mouse trying to get to the food will slide into the bucket. If you attach baits in several places opposite each other, so that after turning the bottle one of the baits remains on the upper side, then several mice can get caught in such a trap.

We make different options ourselves

To create traps, you can use materials that you always have in the house - paper, plastic bottles, other containers, a ruler, wire, etc. The main thing is that such homemade mousetraps are reusable, and some options are self-charging. You don’t have to constantly monitor them and you can catch several rodents with one device.

Sunflower seeds, toasted sunflower oil or a piece of bread dipped in it will be more effective.

However, it is not enough to know how to make a mousetrap at home, you also need to make pests interested in it, you need to be aware of what to put inside. To do this you need an attractive bait.

Everyone knows that mice love cheese, but this is more of a stereotype. No less effective are:

• Sunflower seeds
• Slices of bread fried in sunflower oil
• Small pieces of lard.

A simple version of a bucket and ruler

This is not only a simple solution to the problem, but also quite easy to implement. In addition, such a DIY mousetrap has a great advantage - all its elements are interchangeable. The bucket can be replaced with an old saucepan or other container, and instead of a ruler, use thick cardboard or a thin strip.

The design of such a mousetrap is simple; to create it you will also need a knitting needle or a metal round and rigid wire. The knitting needle rests its ends on the edge of the bucket. A ruler attached to it rests on the edge with one end, and the other should hang over the container. The bait is placed on it, closer to the end.

Such homemade traps for mice and rats will be effective provided that rodents have free access to the ruler located on top of the bucket. It is advisable to fill the container one third with water. The mouse, passing along the rail, crossing the place where it intersects with the knitting needle, shifts the center of gravity of the structure you created.

The free end of the ruler drops sharply down and the animal falls into a homemade mousetrap. If the bait is securely fastened and does not fall off when tipped over, then this design can work many times.

From a jar with cut paper on the neck

This model is similar to the previous one. Only the bait should be placed in a mousetrap, and a path should be made for rodents to the neck of the jar. The top is covered with paper cut crosswise with a razor. Stepping on the paper petals, the animal falls inside the trap.

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Such a mousetrap from a jar is not always effective, since animals are sometimes afraid of thin paper vibrating under their paws. In this design, the bait can be placed not inside the container, but suspended on a rope above it.

We make it from a glass jar and a coin

Such homemade mousetraps can also be made from a small saucepan, and instead of a coin, a large button will do. It will serve as support for the raised edge of the container. A rope or strong thread is glued to it, with a hook attached to the end. A wooden or metal rod is placed inside the jar. A cord with a hook is thrown through it, onto which the bait is placed.

In a simple version, the bait can be glued to the wall of the jar.

When the mouse pulls the food, the thread stretches and pulls the support out from under the can. The trap slams shut, and the caught rodent is trapped. The disadvantage of the trap is that it requires reloading.

Plastic bottle traps

There are many options for making models of this type. Making a mousetrap with your own hands from an ordinary plastic bottle is very simple:

The container is cut into two uneven parts, the bottom should be in the longer one. The part with the neck without a stopper is installed in the other in an inverted position. For structural strength, the bottle mousetrap is glued together.

The bait is inside the container. It is also good to grease the neck with oil. The little animal slips into the bottle and can no longer get out.

A DIY humane mousetrap could be even simpler. The neck of a plastic bottle is cut off and bait is placed inside. The container is installed so that most of it hangs over the edge of the table or shelf.

A do-it-yourself mousetrap made from a plastic bottle is tied with string to something above the table. The animal, getting inside, shifts the center of gravity, and the trap falls, sagging above the floor. With a little ingenuity, you can come up with other models of mousetraps made from plastic bottles.

Interesting video:

Plastic bottle traps

Perhaps the most popular homemade traps are traps made from plastic bottles. As a rule, bottles with a capacity of one and a half to five liters are used.

The simplest trap is a bottle with bait placed at the bottom.

To increase the effectiveness of the trap, the neck of the bottle is often cut off.

In practice, the homemade mousetrap shown in the photo has proven its effectiveness.

The bottle itself is fixed to the surface with a thread. Trying to reach the bait, the animal makes its way into the bottle and, under the influence of the weight of its body, it tips over - the bottle falls, but it hangs, held by the thread, and the mouse cannot get out of the trap.

It is very easy to make a trap out of a plastic bottle that can trap several mice during the night. The walls of the bottle are lubricated with any vegetable oil, bait is placed on the bottom and the bottle is placed obliquely, ensuring easy access to the neck. A mouse that sneaks into the bottle after the bait will not be able to get out, since the slippery surface with the absence of protrusions on which to cling with its claws will not allow the animal to move upward towards the exit/entrance.

To make such traps, you can use not only plastic, but also glass bottles. For example, they take a champagne bottle, pour unrefined sunflower oil into the vessel and roll the bottle on the table so that the oil is evenly distributed along the walls of the bottle. The rodent, attracted by the smell of oil, enters the bottle through the neck and cannot get out because its paws slide along the oiled glass.

For the mousetrap to work effectively, you should keep it clean and wash it regularly using a solution of ash lye or at least regular soda. Neglecting this light will cause the mousetrap to acquire an unpleasant odor that repels rodents.

An effective trap, which is based on the same principle that fishing gear such as tops are made on, can be made from a one and a half liter plastic bottle. Cut off the top third of the bottle and, turning it over, insert it into the lower part. The parts are fastened together using glue, wire or paper clips. The bait is placed inside such a trap, and the neck itself is lubricated with vegetable oil. The mouse crawls inside for food, but can’t get back out.

A mouse trap can also be made from half a plastic bottle. Having retreated a few centimeters from the bottom, the walls are cut along the line of the circle so that when the resulting sectors are bent, sharp teeth are formed, directed towards the center inward. The bait is placed at the bottom and these teeth will not allow the mouse that has penetrated behind it to get out.

Safety precautions when handling adhesive composition

Glue from rats, mice and insects is considered safe for the human body. However, when using it, you must adhere to certain rules.

These include:

• Before starting work on making a homemade device for catching rodents, you must wear rubber gloves.
• To apply the adhesive mass, use a brush or sponge. Do not touch the glue with your hands.
• Traps should be installed where they cannot be reached by children or pets.
• After completing work, wash your hands thoroughly under running water.
• To remove glue from the skin, you can use gasoline or acetone.

Before applying the adhesive mass, it is necessary to assess its condition. It should not have unnatural color changes or be dry.

Wooden traps

The simplest wooden trap is an ordinary mousetrap, which is designed on the principle of a spring trap. A metal frame with a spring is attached to a wooden plank. You also need a hook on which to attach the bait, as well as a latch that hooks onto the hook. The moment the mouse tries to pull the bait off the hook, the spring will work and slam it to the board.

You can catch several mice at once using a mink trap, a device sometimes called a hive mousetrap. Tunnels with a diameter of three centimeters and a length of six to seven centimeters are drilled into a wooden block. A loop is made from the wire, with the help of which a noose made of thinner wire is attached to the bar. Holes are also drilled in the block to attach the springs. Charged springs are tied with thick threads and baits are placed in the tunnels. Trying to get the “yummy”, the mouse chews the thread, the noose spring is triggered and the trap holds the rodent.

The schematic diagram of such a mousetrap is shown in the figure.

The Zürner trap has proven itself well in exterminating rodents. The bait is suspended above the point of contact of two rotating bars. Under the weight of a mouse approaching the bait, the bar rotates along its axis at the point of attachment to the wall of the trap, and the animal slides into the box, from where it cannot get out.

DIY mousetrap made of wood

Do-it-yourself mousetrap made of wood
It is more difficult to make a mousetrap from a wooden block, but such a product also lasts much longer, and its efficiency is high.

Manufacturing stages:

1. Take a wooden block 10 cm long and 5 cm wide.
2. Drill a hole in the block at least 2 cm in diameter with a depth of 7-8 cm.
3. Make a cut along one side of the block (width 3-5 mm).
4. Drill 3 small holes, placing them perpendicular to the axis of the large hole.
5. Bend a ring with an “eye” from the wire.
6. Make a spring of 3 turns from spring wire, leaving 7-9 cm at the ends.
7. Tie a fishing line or strong thread to the ring.
8. Thread the fishing line into 2 small holes one by one and secure.
9. Place the ring into the place where the cut was made so that the entrance to the large hole remains free.
10. Insert one end of the wire spring into the last small hole, and thread the other through the “ear” of the ring.

The mousetrap is ready, all that remains is to pour nuts or seeds into the large hole and wait for guests. The mousetrap works according to the following principle: the animal follows the smell of the bait, chews off the fishing line that interferes with the passage, the ring falls and pinches the mouse.

Electronic mousetrap

This type of mousetrap can be made by anyone with minimal knowledge of electrical engineering. There are 2 types of such mousetraps.

1. Mousetrap cage. After a rodent, attracted by the smell of the bait, enters the cage, the trap door slams shut, the contacts located on the wall and the door are connected - the electrical circuit is closed and a signal sounds that the trap has worked.
2. Killer mousetraps. In such devices, current is supplied to a metal plate installed at the bottom of the trap, as well as to the parts on which the bait is attached, or to parts that are placed on the path to the bait and which will definitely be touched by the animal making its way to the prey. The current passing through the body of the rodent that has closed the circuit kills it.

How to charge and install a mousetrap

But not everyone wants to use humane analogues. And such people can also be understood, because rodents do not decrease in number, but continue to live. And there is no guarantee that they will not return to the same housing, and even in larger numbers.

Note! Therefore, they use structures that are built on the principle of a trap. In order to properly charge the mousetrap, you must carefully read the instructions for it.

After the trap device is pulled back, a piece of bait should be fixed simultaneously with this manipulation. You need to cock it carefully so as not to touch the bait and not to pinch your hand, since the intensity of the grip is quite strong.

Traps with glue

To make such traps, a sheet of cardboard, or plywood, or plastic is smeared with a special glue, which includes rosin, pine resin, bitumen pitch and petroleum jelly. There are also modern synthetic adhesives. You can buy them at hardware stores, or prepare them yourself from the above ingredients. Bait is placed in the center of an area covered with glue, and the mouse rushing towards it becomes tightly glued and subsequently dies either from stress or from dehydration.

Use of snares

To make such a mousetrap you will need:

• cable tie;
• heavy load;
• fishing line;
• clip;
• bait.

The snare is installed as shown in the photo.

A loop is made on the fishing line to which the load is attached, into which the bait is inserted and secured with a paper clip. The mouse, grabbing the bait, pulls it out of the loop, the load ends up in free fall and tightens the snare from the cable tie.

Using a bucket as a mousetrap

Everyone in the house should have a not-so-needed bucket. It can be used to catch pesky rodents.

How to make:

• We use a metal or plastic bucket, a metal rod or a round version of a wooden stick;
• A rod is mounted in the upper part of the bucket. But before that, you should put a plastic bottle or glass jar on it;
• The point is for the container to spin freely on the rod as a result of minimal impact;
• Now the homemade product is installed near the place where mice are active;
• Bait is offered on the top of the container: seeds, a piece of lard, a walnut, crumbs of any baked goods;
• As a result, the mouse will climb onto the bait to eat the treat and will inevitably fall. She will be trapped;
• To make the catch successful, you should place the bottle next to the bucket. This will help increase the chances that the mouse will easily find the bait.

Advantages and disadvantages of a standard rat trap-masher (mousetrap)

The well-known mechanical rat traps-squeezers are quite effective, inexpensive and easy-to-use traps. The photo below shows a classic version of this type of device:

The principle of their operation is that the bait guard keeps a powerful spring from being released. The structure of the guard in this rat trap is such that as soon as a rat pulls the bait, a spring descends and nails the animal with a strong bracket, usually breaking its neck, skull or spine.

To catch rats, large rat traps about 30 cm long are used. Using a standard spring mousetrap to catch a rat is not always effective, since in many cases the spring of the mousetrap does not kill the rat.

Such rat traps are good for their effectiveness, low cost and ease of use. A crusher costs on average from 100 to 200 rubles.

To charge and properly install the structure, you must:

1. Place a suitable bait on the hook (its choice is written below);
2. Bend the bracket back, cover it with a guard and rest the guard against the hook with bait;
3. Place the rat trap where a rat is likely to find it.

After catching the animal, the bracket is lifted, the rat is taken out and thrown away.

This whole design has several disadvantages:

1. The trap can cause serious injury to a cat, dog or child who touches the bait. Moreover, large rat traps can even break a pet’s paw or a child’s finger;
2. And again, the rat needs to be taken out - especially squeamish people cannot do this.

If removing a rat from a trap is not a problem for you, and you plan to use the device where pets and children do not appear, then using a rat crusher will be one of the best options for fighting rats.

Rat traps are manufactured and sold under different brands:

1. Clean House (wooden rat trap with metal bracket). Analogues are the Stayer Standart and Rat&Mouse presses;
2. Super Cat is a plastic trap that looks like slamming jaws (this type of trap is also called a rat trap-lock). Its analogues are Appearance 730 and 733, Mr. Mouse, Great Oval.

The photo below shows the SuperCat rat trap (from Swissino):

In addition, today there are numerous Chinese rat traps of the same types on the market, which are also quite effective.

Sometimes the KP-130 trap is used as a rat trap, which is a typical hunting trap for small fur-bearing animals.

TOP 5 popular models

Electric traps for rats are modern devices that destroy rodents almost instantly, without a trace of blood. Animal carcasses can be disposed of in a waste container without contact.

Antirats-190

The rat trap retains its working properties at temperatures down to -30 C and high humidity (95%). The voltage is located inside the plastic box, so the device is safe to use. The design is of a tunnel type. There are 6 inlet holes on the side wall.

Size W*D*H (cm) - 13*22*11. Power sources: C batteries (4 pcs.), el. net.

Manufacturer: Russian company i4Technology. The company's products are reliable.

Victor

The trap is designed in the form of a tunnel, which protects against accidental electric shock when touching the inside. It is equipped with 2 tension plates.

Power source - AA batteries (4 pcs.). The charge is enough for 100 rodents.

Victor Multi Kill

The rat trap has 2 entrances and a storage container. There are 3 plates in the discharge compartment. Its feature is an automatic revolution after a discharge. The dead animal ends up in a chamber, the size of which allows you to collect up to 10 carcasses.

Recharging occurs automatically after each operation.

Power source - “C” batteries (4 pcs.). The kit is designed for 150 mice or 50 rats.

Electronic Mouse Trap

The Victor brand mousetrap has a cone grip technology that captures the animal. Electric discharge for 5 seconds. kills a rodent. The entrance imitates a hole, located near the wall, in the path of the mouse. Beveled tunnel partitions protect fingers from 2 tension plates.

Power source: 4 AA batteries.

The Victor brand is manufactured by the American company Woodstream Corp, which has experience in rodent control since 1898. The popularity of the products was brought by the use of innovations.

• Power cut off when the door is open.
• Use of safe materials.
• LED notification method.
• Reliability of shockers.
• The design of electronic equipment is designed so that the human hand does not touch dangerous parts.

The disadvantage is the high cost of traps (from 1500 rubles). The price depends on the model.

GH-190

An 8 kW electric discharge destroys the rodent. In offline mode it performs up to 40 discharges. Made from fireproof plastic. The top cover is removable, allowing for hygienic cleaning. The device is designed for 1 individual. After removing the animal’s body, the apparatus must be washed and dried.

The device must be used in a place inaccessible to children and pets.

Dimensions W*D*H (cm) - 13*21*11.

Power sources: from a 220V network, from 4 “C” batteries.

The manufacturer of the rat trap is Chinese.

Electric mousetraps are a humane way to kill rodents. The death of the animal occurs instantly, in contrast to mechanical methods of killing, where the animal dies a painful death: in a bucket of water, on an adhesive backing, clamped in a trap.

Note! When using an electrical apparatus, care must be taken. Install the device in accordance with the instructions

The animal must be removed immediately after death, preventing decomposition.

Ultrasonic repellents

Rodent repeller

Ultrasonic repellers are available in two main types: with ultrasound frequencies up to 50 KHz and up to 75 KHz. It is believed that the latter are more preferable, since mice are able to hear ultrasound up to 75 KHz.

Repellers of the Electrokot series

Repellent "Electrocat Turbo"

Repellers of the Electrokot series

A series of repellers with frequencies up to 50 KHz. They are used to protect buildings with an area of ​​up to 200 square meters. The device is installed on the wall and operates in two modes: day and night. The device has a radiation angle of 110°.

A modified version of the repeller (Turbo) operates in the same frequency range, however, the frequency constantly changes during operation, which creates additional discomfort for rodents. In addition, in addition to ultrasound, this device is equipped with a more powerful transmitter and a bright LED that affects the vision of mice. The area of ​​the room covered by the operating device is 400 square meters.

Tornado Repellers

Repeller Tornado-400

Repeller Tornado-1200

Tornado Repellers

Currently, the series is represented by several models: Tornado-200, Tornado-400 and Tornado 1200. The digital index indicates the operating area of ​​the device. All repellents operate at frequencies above 70 kHz.

The latest model (Tornado-1200) is a semi-professional device. In addition to having the highest power, the emitter also has a circular orientation. Additional options include 7 operating modes and light indication. For ease of operation of the device, a remote control is supplied.

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Why are voles dangerous?

A vole is a cute animal only at first glance. It causes enough harm - the systematic destruction of the garden throughout the entire “neighborhood” is ensured. The pest's teeth come across tree roots, flower bulbs and, in general, everything that grows in the ground. You can determine the appearance of a field mouse by the characteristic teeth marks on damaged roots and tree trunks. Unlike moles, which do not touch plants, they are the ones who make up the diet of voles. When their population grows strongly, you can notice a fair decline in plants such as alfalfa, pasture grasses, clover, potatoes, carrots, beets and turnips.

Also, voles are often carriers of dangerous diseases: tularemia, leptospirosis, piroplasmosis, as well as all kinds of parasites, fleas and ticks.