How to properly transplant an adult grape bush to a new location

When can grapes be replanted?

There are no universal dates when it is better to replant grapes. The gardener needs to focus on his region and specific climatic conditions.

The optimal time for planting and replanting is considered to be autumn and spring. In autumn, work begins after leaf fall and continues until frost. In the southern regions, where the soil does not freeze in winter, it is permissible to plant during prolonged thaws in January-February.

In spring, wait until the soil thaws. It is important to have time to transplant before the eyes begin to bloom. In spring, the soil is well saturated with moisture, which plants use for their development.

Important! The earlier the bushes are planted (subject to favorable conditions), the better they will take root.

When deciding how to properly replant grapes without loss to the harvest, the gardener must take into account not only the time of the operation, but also the age of the plant.

Tips and tricks

Here are a few more tricks from experienced winegrowers:

1. If severe frosts are predicted, additional insulation is done using hay, which is laid on top of the shelter. It is removed only when the threat of frost has passed.
2. Mulching must also be carried out.
3. You should also not forget about watering - it is important that the soil is constantly moist.

Beginner mistakes

Summer residents who do not have much experience most often make the following mistakes:

1. Too many rhizomes are cut. The grapes simply cannot take root.
2. Very old bushes are moved. After 10 years, regenerative abilities decrease significantly.
3. Planting in places where grapes once grew. Bushes significantly deplete the soil; in addition, it cannot be guaranteed that there are no harmful pathogens that pose a danger to transplanted shrubs.

A serious approach and the necessary knowledge will help preserve and rejuvenate even a mature vineyard.

Methods for transplanting adult grape bushes of different ages

The first three years of life of a young plant are considered a seedling. During this period, it is actively forming roots. With age, the old roots thicken, the vital potential of the grapes and its ability to regenerate decreases. This means that the older the plant, the worse it takes root in a new place. Nevertheless, even mature bushes 7-10 years old are capable of producing good yields after transplantation.

How to transplant an adult grape bush:

• with a lump of earth;
• with an open root system.

For adult bushes, the first method is optimal - with a lump of earth and an intact root system. However, this is not always possible without special equipment.

So, depending on the type of soil and climate, the root system of a grape bush penetrates to the following depth:

• in a humid, cool climate - 20-40 cm;
• in the south - 40-120 cm;
• on sandy soils - 1.5-3.5 m;
• on rocks in the southern regions - 3-5 m or more.

Thus, the task of the winegrower when replanting is to preserve as many roots as possible. The older the plant, the larger the earthen lump will be.

Place

A suitable place is the key to rapid growth and development of the bush, abundant fruiting.

Grapes should never be replanted in place of a removed bush or in soil that has been fertilized with compost that contains vines or leaves.

Characteristics of a favorable place

Grapes love a bright place, protected from the wind.
To ensure that the grapes have a strong vine, are less sick and produce a rich harvest, provide suitable conditions:

• the area is well lit, in the daytime there is no shadow from buildings;
• there are no fruit trees or berry bushes at a distance of 2–3 m;
• the place is protected from drafts; it is better to plant bushes along the southern walls of buildings;
• the soil is well drained, the depth of groundwater is more than 1 m, since grapes do not like stagnant moisture;
• pH level from 5.5 to 7.0 (depending on the variety), too acidic or alkaline soil is not suitable.

Grapes are not very demanding on soil fertility, but on poor lands the yield will decrease. Too dense clay soils are enriched with peat and manure. Excessively sandy soils are fertilized with organic fertilizers: peat, humus, humus, compost.

Do not overuse nitrogenous fertilizers. Excess nitrogen in the soil will lead to excessive vine growth and poor fruiting.

One-year-olds, two-year-olds, three-year-olds

Young seedlings are planted from the school to a permanent place at the age of 1-3 years. They can be either with a closed root system or with an open one.

In specialized literature on viticulture, it is advised to do the following:

1. Select 1-2 most developed shoots on the seedling, remove the rest.
2. Trim the selected shoots, leaving 2-3 eyes on each.
3. Remove all roots located above the first or second node from the heel. This should stimulate the development of the primary heel roots.
4. Shorten the heel roots to 20-25 cm when planting in holes and to 5-7 cm under a hydraulic drill.

Features of transplanting grapes at different times of the year

When planning how to transplant grapes to another place in the fall or spring, the gardener proceeds from the climate of the region and the type of root system of the planting material (closed - ZKS or open - OKS).

Transplanting seedlings in autumn

When replanting in autumn, the undoubted advantage is that in the spring the bush begins to grow early and does not lag behind the rest in development. This means that in the first year after the operation you can get a small harvest.

If you plan to replant grapes from ZKS in the fall, be prepared that the plant will not have time to take root in the new place and will not survive the winter. To avoid this, you need to carefully mulch the soil around the seedling and make a more thorough shelter.

Alternatively, in areas with little snow in the winter and possible frosts, it is recommended to dig up seedlings with ZKS in the fall and plant them only in the spring, organizing a cool winter for them in the basement or cellar. Bushes with ACS are replanted in the fall.

Differences when transplanting in spring and summer

When replanting in spring, there is a possibility that the bush will take a long time to get used to the new conditions, will begin to grow late and, as a result, the vine will not have time to ripen. The harvest with this method of transplantation will have to wait longer.

Important! Planting vegetative grapes in unheated soil will most likely lead to the death of the root system, and therefore the entire bush.

An undoubted advantage of spring planting is that the hole for the plant is prepared well in advance, in the summer or autumn. During the winter months, all fillers added to the pit are compacted and create a more uniform soil.

In summer, replanting adult bushes is not advisable. During the growing season, the plant will spend a lot of energy restoring the roots to the detriment of the development of the above-ground part and may wither. Young vegetative seedlings with a closed root system, which can be transplanted without damaging the roots, are moved to a new location in the summer.

Preliminary work

They select and prepare the place where they will plant in advance.

Selecting a location

When choosing a new location, pay attention to the level of illumination - grapes will grow faster on warm soil, and a lack of sun will reduce the quantity and quality of the harvest.

An important nuance is the type of soil - clay and salt marshes are not suitable, as are places with high humidity. Sand is not able to hold moisture, and in winter it freezes quickly. The optimal solution is loamy chernozems.

Preparing the site

The place for seedlings needs to be prepared in the fall.

Pre-planting bush preparation

In order not to damage the bush, it is advisable to preserve the lump. If you didn’t save it, then in the next two years you will have to remove the inflorescences and abandon the trimmings.

Digging up a bush

The bush is dug up only after the planting hole has been prepared.

How to replant grapes

In general, the procedure for transplanting grapes to a new place does not differ from regular planting. Only one operation is added - excavation.

How to dig up bushes

The older the plant, the harder it is to dig it up with its entire root system. Procedure:

1. Dig up the bush at a distance of about 50 cm from the trunk, being careful not to damage the roots of neighboring plants.
2. Carefully expose the roots. If they go deep into the ground, cut them off. At this stage, the main thing is to preserve the heel and the main roots coming from it.
3. If it is physically possible, grab the bush directly with a lump of earth and transfer it to a sheet of metal, tarpaulin or into a wheelbarrow, with the help of which they drag the plant to a new planting site.
4. To prevent the lump from falling apart, you can wrap it in a piece of cloth and bandage it.
5. If the bush is to be replanted with an open root, gently shake the soil on the roots with your hands or a stake, completely exposing them.

Beginning gardeners doubt whether they need to water the plant before replanting. Watering helps to ensure that the soil does not crumble and holds a lump. If you need to clean the roots, you do not need to water the bush first.

An interesting way to dig up a bush using a hydraulic drill:

• The soil around the bush is worked well with a hydraulic drill until it becomes slurry.
• Then all the slurry is scooped out, leaving the roots intact.
• If there is no hydraulic drill, the bush is dug up and watered until the soil is saturated.

Preparation of planting material

Before or after transplantation, regardless of the age of the bush, the above-ground part must be shortened. 2-3 annual shoots are left on the plant. They are cut 2-3 buds closer to the beginning of the sleeve. If you plan to renew the entire above-ground part, it is cut off at the black head.

Planting grapes in a new place

A new place for the bush is prepared in advance, at least a month in advance, or even better, six months in advance. The planting depth and its method depend on:

• climate,
• type of soil on the site,
• shelter options for the winter,
• snow depth and other factors.

Traditionally, in industrial vineyards, bushes are planted in holes or under a hydraulic drill. The latter method is only suitable for young seedlings with a shortened root system.

Recommended planting depth for industrial cultivation:

• in the European part - 45-50 cm;
• on irrigated fertile soils of Central Asia - 55-60 cm;
• on sandy soils - 60-65 cm.

However, in amateur viticulture in Russia, different regions have established their own methods:

• in the south, where the soil warms up well and dries out quickly, they are planted in large, pre-fertilized holes to a depth of 40-50 cm;
• in the Moscow region, the method of planting in raised ridges to a depth of 30-40 cm is gaining popularity;
• in northern viticulture zones, for example in the Urals, grapes are planted in trenches to provide the bushes with good shelter in winter and quick warming in summer.

In areas with poor soil (sand, stone), deep holes 1x1x1 m are made for planting, which are filled with plant residues, rotted manure or humus, and mineral fertilizers. There is no such need on black soils. There it is enough to dig a hole according to the size of the root system and plant the seedling to a depth of no more than 40-45 cm.

Thus, there is no universal planting scheme suitable for all regions. Each winegrower chooses for himself the one that suits the conditions of his site. When transplanting an adult bush, the same rules apply as during normal planting, which we will consider below.

Instructions for transplanting grapes

With a clod of earth and a rooter

Sequence of operations:

1. The planting pit is prepared in proportion to the earthen coma.
2. Pour a couple of buckets of water into it.
3. Lower the bush into the hole and remove the wrapping fabric.
4. The gaps between the earthen lump and the walls of the pit are gradually covered with earth, watering periodically.
5. When the hole is completely covered with earth, form a circle around the trunk and once again water the bush abundantly with the addition of a root growth stimulator.

With open root system

Boarding order:

1. Prepare a hole in advance 15-20 cm deep than the length of the underground trunk of the seedling and water it with water.
2. 10-25 cm of fertile soil mixed with humus and mineral fertilizers is poured onto the bottom.
3. Before planting, the roots of the seedling are trimmed to 25-30 cm and dipped in a creamy mash (1 part cow manure 2 parts clay).
4. A mound is made in the center of the hole on which the seedling is placed.
5. The roots are spread along the slopes of the mound.
6. The hole with the seedling is filled halfway with soil and watered.
7. Cover with soil up to surface level.
8. Form a tree trunk circle and water it abundantly.

Important! In the area of ​​covered viticulture, the base of the shoots after planting should be 1-2 cm below the soil level.

Step-by-step removal of a grape bush from the ground

Before you begin to remove the grape bush from the ground, you should first shorten its above-ground part, leaving only 2 sleeves and a pair of young shoots with 3 buds on each of them. All resulting sections must be immediately treated with garden varnish or paint used to protect plants from pests.

From the cut parts of the grape vine, if desired, you can prepare cuttings that will be ready for planting next spring.

A couple of days before replanting, the bush is watered abundantly so that the earthen ball does not collapse when dug up. The trench around the plant is made of such a diameter that 2 adults can comfortably fit in it.

Those root shoots that protrude beyond the formed earthen ball must be carefully cut off with sharp pruning shears so that they do not provoke soil shedding from the root system. The side walls of the coma are tightly wrapped with cloth during transportation to a new location. A sheet of plywood is placed under its bottom, on which a grape bush pulled out of the ground is placed together, carefully lifting it.

Mistakes when transplanting grapes

If the seedling does not take root and grows poorly, the peculiarities of transplanting adult grapes may not have been taken into account.

Common mistakes:

1. Late planting in spring. The plant needs time to adapt to new conditions and restore its roots. In addition, in the spring the soil dries out quickly and a seedling with ACS may not have enough soil moisture to start growing.
2. Early planting in spring. In cold soil, the roots of a vegetating seedling with SCD may die.
3. Too much root pruning. Having lost the heel roots, an adult bush cannot restore them and receive adequate nutrition.
4. Planting in a dry pit. The dry layer between the roots and soil moisture prevents the roots from starting to grow.
5. An attempt to collect a full harvest in the year of transplantation. Excessive load on the bush leads to the fact that the plant wastes its own resources without receiving sufficient nutrition.

Caring for grapes after transplantation

In the first year after transplanting to a new location, the bush needs increased care and attention.

Caring for transplanted grapes

You must be prepared that the plant will not immediately recover and produce full harvests. The inflorescences that form in the first year are cut off completely so that the bush devotes all its energy to restoring the roots.

Watering

The bush is watered in the same way as the rest of the vineyard: by ground method or through a pipe. When choosing the second method, gardeners should take into account the depth of the root layer. For example, if the roots do not penetrate further than 40 cm, and the pipe is buried deeper into the ground, the bush does not receive water when watering.

Depending on soil moisture, 3-5 waterings are carried out per season, every 2 weeks in dry weather and 3-4 weeks in wet weather. For early varieties, watering is completed in mid-July, for late varieties - in mid-August.

Every 15-20 days after rain or watering, loosen the soil around the bush. This prevents the soil from drying out and promotes air flow to the roots.

Feeding

Fertilizers filled into the hole during planting are enough for the first 2 years. During this period, additional feeding is carried out if signs of a lack of elements are visible.

Frost protection

Bushes are prepared for winter in different ways, depending on the growing region:

• cover the ground with a mulch layer;
• spud;
• protect bushes with non-woven material;
• The seedlings are covered with soil.

Disease and pest control

During the season, several sprays are carried out with Bordeaux mixture against mildew. In general, the replanted bush is treated in the same way as the rest of the vineyard.

Important! It is advisable to use reduced doses of drugs on a weakened bush.

What to do in spring

When warm weather sets in, the shelter is removed. Remove straw and other mulch and loosen the soil. At this time, the first feeding and preventive treatment are carried out. Before the buds swell, the vine is sprayed with a 3% solution of Bordeaux mixture, then a 1% solution is used.

Among fertilizers, preference is given to ash, manure, urea, and superphosphate.

If you take into account the timing and other rules of transplantation, the transplanted bush will take root. Take care of it correctly so that it grows the vine faster and bears fruit better.

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