Home Rodents Which method of controlling moles should you choose?
The mole has fallen out of favor with humans for many decades now. And the reason for this is his underground lifestyle, which is associated with harm to farmers and gardeners, who are sometimes simply forced to consider, among the many ways to combat the uninvited guest, such radical methods as baiting and extermination of moles.
Not only repellents, but also pesticides and traps can protect our garden, especially if the animals cannot otherwise be expelled from the site.
- A little about the pest
- Solutions to the problem
- Mole traps
- Lethal traps
- Pesticide
- Conclusion
A radical and powerful method to get rid of moles
Electronic mole repellers in some cases cannot cope with moles, which can adapt to such devices and not notice their actions.
Then a radical method will help you, which is more powerful than all known means. It will definitely help you get rid of moles, while the animals will remain safe and sound and will simply leave your garden. Blogger Lawyer Egorov tried many standard methods of fighting moles and, being disappointed in their effectiveness, came up with his own method. Traps, poisons and snares are cruel methods. Exhaust fumes and other exotic innovations ruin the lawn. Animals have adapted to electronic repellers. Every year, when the water in the canal dries up, a family of moles comes to the author of the idea in the garden. By inserting a nozzle into a hole in the ground and turning on the device for 10 minutes, he forces annoying animals to leave their shelter and run outside the garden. You can increase the power of the repeller by pouring water into the hole, then its effect will be effective over a larger area.
How long is the operating time of an ultrasonic repeller? As experience shows, no more than three seasons. You have to buy a new one. And the deep vibrator, in comparison with them, is eternal. In addition, it will be useful for its intended purpose. The cost of the deep vibrator turned out to be cheaper than the cost of all the repellers that had to be used for several years.
If you are only prepared for such humane methods, then chances are you have a pet. There is an article about a three-room apartment for hamsters.
How to get rid of moles in your summer cottage forever?
Although the mole brings many benefits in nature, in summer cottages it is a real scourge. Which is not so easy to remove from your garden. It is necessary and possible to fight the mole! If you don’t fight, you will be deprived of some of the potatoes, for example, one mole is preparing supplies for the winter that reach up to 40 kg of potatoes, and how he loves carrots and red beets. Yes, this is almost my entire harvest!
He also loves to feast on worms, which do a lot of good for us, loosen the earth and saturate it with oxygen. Plus, most of your root vegetables will be destroyed, as they will probably be in the path of the mole.
ways to fight moles , some of them I used myself, some of them were used by my neighbors. Really working and really funny!
Personally, my method is simple prevention in quotes. I always plant onions and garlic . This not only saves you from moles. And also some plants, for example daffodils , which are both beautiful and safe.
And so, ordinary rattles in the form of tin cans on strings have always been disliked by moles. They cannot stand loud noise.
But I got rid of my uninvited guests with the help of a pungent smell, with the help of herring))
I bought a kilogram of salted herring, took it outside and gave it time to sit so that it would give off a “good” smell, or rather, become rotten. And then she tore up the mounds of moles and threw them into the trench, piece by piece, no more than 5 cm long. From such a stench, I would have run away myself.
I threw it into almost all the holes, and repeated the same the next day when the mole began to leave. On the third day he was already outside my dacha plot, may my neighbor Ivan Ilyich forgive me))
I know that electronic mole repellers . But they should be chosen more carefully; many do not bring any benefit. It's better to read reviews about them and then buy.
There was also a funny case of fighting a mole in my life. A whole family of moles settled with a relative; the area looked as if it had been after an air raid. Nothing took the moles. And since they feed on insects and some root vegetables, it is difficult to feed them pesticides. The relative became so desperate that no method worked that he borrowed a vibrating plate from a friend. But moles are afraid of sharp sounds, but here it’s just an earthquake)) Starting at lunch, from the beginning and gradually moving in the direction of the mole holes, by the evening he collected half a bucket of mole brood. He says the moles almost jumped out of the holes. This is a physically possibly difficult way, but effective! Sincerely © Grandmother Manya...
DIY electric mole trap
Homemade mole traps with your own hands (assembly of different types and types, photo)
1. Do-it-yourself mole trap from a pipe
Everyone has long known that moles cause some damage to flower beds, vegetable gardens, meadows, fields and fruit nurseries. Without using plant food, but digging shallowly from the soil surface, moles disrupt the root system of plants and destroy earthworms. But worms are the main producers of humus. In addition, they dig up a lot of soil, and this does not at all decorate flower beds and lawns. In general, in any case, all the consequences are quite unpleasant, and few people know how to get rid of them. After many trials of rodent extermination, a solution to the problem was found. They created special mole traps that were able to overcome this pressing problem.
The mole trap is a piece of plastic pipe, at the end of which there are 2 galvanized steel dampers. The damper is fixed to the axis in such a way that moles can freely enter the pipe and cannot get out. The flap closes behind the moles under the influence of gravity, otherwise the moles can easily remove it.
Shape of bracket and valve in more detail:
A small bar is left at the top; it prevents the lid from turning outward, resting against the top of the tube. The lid is not round, but oval. Space is left for it to move freely. Galvanized or stainless steel wire is threaded through the top and secured at the top. There should be no sharp parts inside the tube. Only outside. The mole is terribly afraid of anything spicy.
Now let's talk about installing a mole trap. The most important rule is the correct choice of location for their installation. It is useless to set traps in a pile of earth that moles have dug up. You need to go around your area and trample the whole pile. After some time, the passage that is visited by moles will again acquire dislodged soil. This move can be used to set a trap. Cover the inlet of the pipe and damper with earth. When installing the mole trap, your hands must be gloved or simply clean; under no circumstances should you smoke or use perfume - after all, moles have an excellent sense of smell. In this case, the mole will never climb into the trap.
Practical recommendations that will help you use mole traps even more effectively.
In search of food, the mole constantly makes a feeding passage, which is located at a depth of two to five centimeters and has a poorly compacted wall. The mole usually rarely uses its own power again. Basically, it uses a constant passage, which lies at a depth of fifteen to twenty centimeters and is distinguished by a smooth compacted wall, since several families of moles use a constant passage. It was found that mole holes can be easily found by their discarded piles of earth, which usually combine the two nearest ones. Mole traps must be installed in the densest soil in the form of paths where moles are forced to dig, which is why most moles use this route. For greater effectiveness, install four to five mole traps in different places on the site and check them two to three times a day.
2. Mole trap in the form of a disease trap (noose)
DIY drawings of a mole trap:
Among the disease traps in our country, mole traps, wood traps and various other traps are used, similar in design to the well-known spring mousetrap, the so-called Gero die. Traps of this type do not have paired arches or jaws, with the help of which the limb or body of the animal is pinched. This is their main difference. The main pressing part of these traps is a lever, or clamp, usually acting by the force of a spiral spring. The most common of them are mole traps. There are many known designs of mole traps, very different in design. Currently, a standard single-acting mole trap consisting of a frame and a guard is widely used. The frame is made from one piece of steel wire with a cross-section of 3.3-4 mm. Individual sections of the frame serve different purposes in the process of catching a mole.
Through the round entrance ring the animal enters the mole trap. A guard is suspended from the upper support rod. The pressure lever, or clamp, has the shape of a rectangular, not completely closed frame and ends with a straight rod. Between the support and pressure levers there is a spiral spring of two and a half turns. The spring should provide an alarming force of 4-6 kg and press the animal to the bottom of the entrance ring with a force of 2-2.5 kg.
The disadvantage of a standard mole trap is the inconsistent effort required to disengage the trap. This force ranges from 10 to 100 g, although according to technical conditions it should be 40-50 g. The mole trap, proposed by the Ural hunter F.D. Beltyukov, differs from the standard square entrance frame and a different system of alarm mechanism, which consists of an alert and gatehouse.
When alerting, the clamp is placed on the guard near the fold, and the end of the long arm of the guard is hooked to the guard.
The alarming mechanism of this mole trap has greater sensitivity and a more constant release force of the trap.
Hunter of the Belokataevsky region of Bashkiria G.I. Ishtuganov proposed a new guard for mole traps, providing a constant disinhibiting force of 40-50 g. Ishtuganov’s guard consists of a ring with a roller and an earring. The earring is suspended on the support arm of the mole catcher. On its lower end, slightly bent forward, a roller is put on, which is a small annular spiral of 2-3 turns, twisted from thin wire. A clamp is placed on this roller during alerting. The guard ring, which blocks the animal's progress, has an oval shape, flattened at the bottom.
When entering the trap, the mole presses on the guard ring, while the roller, rotating on the earring, releases the pressure lever, which crushes the animal. The high sensitivity of this alert increases the catchability of the mole trap by an average of 10%.
Wooden trap. The wood trap consists of seven parts: a crutch, an axis, an arc, two spiral springs, a guard and a guard. The weight of the trap is 210-220 g. The crutch is a metal strip 190 mm long, 16 mm wide and 4 mm thick. Its lower end is sharpened in the form of a wedge.
When installing the trap, the arc is rotated 340° and pressed against the crutch. Holding the crutch and the arc pressed to it, place it at a right angle with the tip to the tree trunk and several blows with the butt of the ax on the upper end of the crutch, drive it into the tree at a height of 120-150 cm from the ground. To alert a trap, you need to attach a bait of dried mushrooms to the hook of the guard, raise the arc to the crutch, throw the guard over it and hook its end to the guard. The alert trap is covered from above with branches of coniferous trees, so you can only approach it from below from the alert side. When the animal takes the bait, it pulls the guard off the guard, the arc is released, hits the animal and presses it to the tree trunk.
On the Internet, even on specialized sites, there is a lot of unreliable, incomplete information about moles and the fight against them.
There is an opinion that a mole can be driven away with pungent (foul) smelling substances. In fact, this is not so; the mole easily blocks part of the labyrinth with earth, digging a bypass hole. There is also an opinion that the mole is afraid of various noise effects. And this is not so, otherwise how can one explain that the mole happily inhabits places near railways and roads. My experience shows that all sorts of “noisemakers” create some inconvenience for the mole for a while, then the mole adapts to the inconvenience and returns to its normal way of life. However, there is a simple, radical and economical way to fight moles in your garden that I have tested over the years - catching the animal using standard wire mole traps. In a small area, it is enough to have 4-5 pairs of mole traps. When 15-16 individuals are caught, the local mole population degrades and raids practically stop. But mole traps must be in the holes at all times.
The photo shows mole traps and a file. A file is an integral device necessary for alerting a mole trap. Important! The heel of the guard and the stop on the shoulder of the crush are carefully cleaned of rust with a file in the LONGITUDINAL DIRECTION, and not in the transverse direction!, which contributes to a more accurate and soft operation of the mole trap, and forces the animal to hunt more intensively:
This photo shows how to install mole traps. Important! The spring of the mole trap is pressed into the ground AGAINST the movement of the animal through the hole!
3. Drawings of a mole trap with your own hands on a wooden base.
1. General view of the trap in a charged state. 2. View of the trap with the mechanism released: A - front view; B - side view; 1 - spring; 2 - crush; 3 — hook for bait; 4 - gatehouse.
The principle of operation of a spring bag is very simple. It is attached to the tree in a vertical position. I hang bait inside the trap. The marten climbs up the tree into the trap and pulls the bait down, thereby alerting the animal, and the animal is forcefully pressed with a wire crusher to the inside of the front wall. A spring bag has a number of advantages over traps, which is why I give it preference. The trap does not require annual treatment; it can be used for many years. The bait is inside the trap and is not pecked by birds. And you only need a little bait; there is enough squirrel for four traps. The spring bag is hung on a tree and does not require any additional cover. There is no need to be afraid that the trap will be covered with snow or frost will set in after a thaw - it will always remain operational. A marten, once caught in a trap, dies very quickly, so there are no catches. And one more quality of the spring bag is that it is universal; martens, stoats, and squirrels fall into it equally well.
4. An example of implementing an interesting do-it-yourself mole trap with several inputs.
Author Lev Borisovich Vyskubov
In this article I give a detailed description of how to make an effective mousetrap, or mole trap, with your own hands from scrap materials.
The basis of the mousetrap is a wooden block (board) with approximate dimensions: length 200 mm, width 120 mm and thickness 40-50 mm. First, on one side of the board we drill holes with a diameter of about 30 mm, blind, to a depth of 80-100 mm.
Then, at a distance of about 5 mm, we make a cut 2-4 mm wide, this width is obtained if the cut is made with an ordinary hacksaw with a not very large tooth. The cut is not made to the end, so that a thin plate (item 1) about 5 mm thick remains, which on one side remains connected to the board.
For a strong connection with the main board, thin strips (item 2) are inserted into the cut, secured with small nails. The strips are located between the blind holes and should not overlap them. The plate can be made from a separate plank or plywood, but then you will have to make holes in it that are exactly aligned with the blind holes in the main block, and this is difficult.
At a distance of about 10 mm from the cut, in each hole we make two transverse holes of small diameter (item 3), into which the trigger thread will then be threaded. Holes with a diameter of 2-3 mm should be located at a distance of 10 mm from each other so that the trigger thread (item 4) (discussed below) evenly covers the blind hole. Holes of small diameter pass through the block.
Now you need to make springs that will hold the caught rodents in the mousetrap. The springs should be made of carbon steel, the easiest way is to use bicycle spokes. The spring is given the shape of two straight sections, between which it is bent into a ring (item 5).
One straight section ensures fastening of the spring in the board; its length should be approximately equal to the thickness of the board, and the second straight section is a working section and its length should be slightly less than the width of the board so that the end of the spring does not protrude beyond the edge of the board.
To ensure that the fastening of the spring to the board is reliable, part of the ring is recessed into a groove (item 6) made in the board. The easiest way to make grooves for the springs is to select a corner of the board using a tongue and groove tool, and then cut inclined grooves over each blind hole with a hacksaw to a depth of about 5 mm. The angle must be selected from the side of the board opposite the side in which the blind holes were drilled. Of course, all these selections and cuts should not reach blind holes.
To attach the springs, holes are drilled in the board with a diameter equal to the diameter of the spring wire. The holes are located in the corner, away from the edge. The spring is inserted in a short straight section into the hole, so that the spring ring fits into the sawn groove. To prevent the spring from falling out, it should be secured with a wire pin or a bent nail (pos. 7), although this is not necessary if the groove width is small.
Now on each spring we make a catching loop from thin steel wire. Loops can be made from any wire that will not bend under the action of a spring when the loop is held by a latch. A thin steel wire with a diameter of 0.3-0.5 mm is sufficient. The main thing is that the rings pass freely through the cut in the block, which we made at the very beginning of making the mousetrap. The loop (pos. 8) has a diameter approximately equal to the diameter of the blind hole plus the thickness of the board from the edge of the blind hole to the bottom surface of the board.
The loop is screwed to the spring so that it can move quite freely along it. This completes the manufacturing process. Now let's move on to the loading process.
To load the mole trap, you need to compress the spring so that the wire loop passes through the cut right through and protrudes from the back side of the block in the place marked (pos. 9). Unfortunately, the protruding edge of the hinge is almost invisible in the photo.
To simplify loading, it is convenient to use a wire retainer (pos. 10), which is usually stored in a specially drilled blind hole of small diameter (as seen in the photo), and when loading is inserted into a wire ring on the back of the bar in the place indicated by pos. 9.
After installing the clamp, the spring is kept compressed, and your hands remain free. A thick thread is pulled through small-diameter holes and tied with a loop. The thread should be thick enough to hold the spring cocked, but not too strong that a rodent could bite through it. It is better to use cotton threads rather than synthetic ones.
The loop covers the spring and crosses the blind hole in two places.
After tying the thread, you can compress the spring a little and remove the lock.
The spring will tension the thread loop, and the wire ring will rise slightly, but will remain outside the edges of the blind hole, without blocking it.
Other holes are charged in the same way. Then a little bait, for example, nuts, is poured into the blind holes, so that the bait is in the depths. When a mole or mouse tries to get to the bait, it chews the thread and the spring lifts the wire ring, which catches the animal by the neck.
5. Types of industrially produced mole traps:
Source
How to scare away moles in the garden
Moles feed on earthworms, larvae, frogs, mice and insect pupae. They do not touch the roots of vegetables, as is commonly believed. But they cause considerable harm to the garden.
On the one hand, moles are useful in that they destroy harmful insects, especially such dangerous pests as the larvae of the cockchafer. They also loosen the soil well, making it more fertile.
But, on the other hand, they cause even more harm than good. They eat earthworms, which are essential to our earth.
You can get rid of moles using a mole trap or using noise. Place a few noisy turntables on your site and the moles will leave your garden, but not far.
Another way will help get rid of moles. Install a 1.5 meter long pipe into the ground. Place a plastic bottle on its end. Moles will not tolerate the noise that the bottle neck makes in the wind.
How to protect the area from repeated penetration of moles
Catching moles is usually not an easy task. Therefore, even if you win the first stage of the war with earth-moving animals, you need to take care of the subsequent protection of the site from repeated invasion.
This is interesting: moles rarely live alone. In most cases, a whole family is located on the site, which can reach several dozen in number.
To prevent the appearance of individuals, you should adhere to a number of recommendations:
Whatever method you choose to defend your territory, do not forget about humanity. Despite the considerable damage these animals cause to the garden, they also have the right to exist.
Source
How to get rid of moles in the garden
One of the most unpleasant pests in the garden are moles, because of them we lose almost the entire harvest. So how can you get rid of these troublemakers in your garden? There are many ways, including repellers. But in this article we will tell you how you can make a repeller with your own hands.
You need to take a simple, not very long stick, a meter or one and a half long, put your favorite homemade plastic bottles on it, make cutouts as in the photo, and after that stick the windmill into the ground.
The noise that the windmill makes scares the moles and they leave the garden to join the neighbors. It is important to place them correctly in the right places. This method is most popular among gardening enthusiasts.
Mole traps
Let's start with using traps for animals. It must be said that the method of catching these animals is not used as often as the same repellers or traps. Mole traps seem to separate humane and inhumane methods of combating insectivorous pests by an invisible line.
The bottom line is that this method is somewhat troublesome, because it is much easier to stick the same Ecosniper repeller into the ground or set a mole trap in a hole. And having caught the unlucky miner in a trap, he will then need to be removed from it and taken away if we are not going to kill the animal.
But, we digress. Let's talk about which live traps for catching moles are the most popular and often used.
A very effective folk method for catching our burrower is an ordinary small pan dug a little deeper below the level of the hole. The animal usually moves quite quickly through its underground labyrinths and simply falls into the pan on the fly, not being able to get out of it.
It is also common to use a plastic plumbing pipe with a valve at one end. The pipe is inserted into the hole so that the animal does not suspect anything. One end of it is closed, the other serves as an entrance without the animal being able to get out on its own.
This is ensured thanks to the structure of the door, which is made in the shape of the letter “L”, and the mole can only go inside, after which the door turns and closes tightly for the animal.
In general, the principle is simple and clear. Then all we have to do is dig out the trap and decide what to do with the caught “prey”.
Who fumbles with electricity - kill the moles
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Branch
Burn patterns onto the board. Beautiful. And I'm burning out)))
What if this transformer is connected to two pins and placed into the ground, and the ground is all saturated with water, for example in the spring after the snow melts.
I don’t understand the physics of electric currents, but perhaps they should occur inside the flooded soil?
Will this kill moles or not?
Denis199rus
bodydoctor
CLUBARMADA
CLUBARMADA
Branch
I confirm the story with the propellers. Works. But it’s a long time - the whole season. I did this 10 years ago when I laid the lawn for the first time. They rummaged through everything for me the next year. He placed the helicopters in a row at intervals of 5 meters and began to retreat to the sides from the center of the area. Thus, once a week he carried helicopters from the center to the sides of the site’s borders. This took the entire summer season. The moles are gone. They were gone for 7-8 years. This was on a plot of 30 acres of lawn. He placed about 25 helicopters on poles made of brass tubes. The helicopters were made of plastic 4 mm thick. I ordered laser cutting from a printing house. 4 helicopters were made from an A4 sheet of plastic. I bent the blades by heating them a little with a lighter. And most importantly: The central hole for mounting on the pole must be made not in the center, but with an offset from the center axis - so that an eccentric is created and during rotation, misalignment = vibration and runout on the axis. So that vibration would be transmitted through the pole to the ground. I thought of it myself and it helped!
Now I have a clean lawn of 1.5 hectares))), not counting other landscaping, buildings and a garden with a vegetable garden.
Last season, 2022, there were hordes of moles. Believe me, there are hordes.
I need to kill them quickly somehow. I can’t stand a whole season of helicopters. I’m thinking of some way with electricity.
I’m already going to have a heart attack, I can feel how the snow will melt in the spring))) There will be something like this on my ideal lawns - it’s just an ass ((((
Let's, who is not a chemist (like me), but a physicist, theorize about methods of killing with electricity?
Catch a mole, torture it with electricity and release it so that you can pass it on to your own people - don’t suggest it)))) consider that you’ve already tried it - it didn’t help
Branch
Fact And beer cans work
But it all looks like a garbage dump))))
Ivan186
Branch
Shit (((Mountains, I tried different manufacturers. It’s all a scam for money. The moles dig right under them so that the buzzing ones fall on their sides and continue to lie on the ground and hum, and the moles continue to dig without paying any attention to them
Well, even if they worked on 1.5 hectares, you’d need to supply 100 of them
Anyway, on topic:
I connected this burning transformer to a 2.5 meter long board. There are two screws screwed in at the edges, and wires behind them with crocodile clips +/- Wet it generously with water and soda. An arc chain is formed. If you touch the wet board with your hands while turning it on, it will kill you.
The harm from moles is much greater than the benefit
These underground animals come to the site in search of food - earthworms, insects, slugs, and wintering larvae. Animals do not like sandy or swampy soils, and garden plots with many “tasty” inhabitants in loose soil are very attractive to them.
Every gardener wants to get rid of moles in their summer cottage once and for all, because they:
- damage plant roots;
- reduce the number of earthworms aerating the soil;
- bring low-fertility substrate to the surface, deteriorating the quality of the soil;
- create ready-made “moves” for rats and mice;
- undermine the roots of fruit trees (this destroys the plants).
If there are moles in the garden or vegetable garden, they will not ignore the neighboring area. But the animals not only cause harm, their activity also has a beneficial side:
- Loosening the soil saturates it with oxygen and enhances crop growth.
- Underground molehills (passages) increase the nitrogen content in the soil.
- Pest larvae living in the soil die.
Attention! The activity of underground pests in the fertile soil zone causes significant damage to the crop. Therefore, all farmers are ready to fight moles in the garden and win.
A little about the pest
The mole himself, to be honest, could become a real gardener's friend, if not for his passion for digging under fertile beds. After all, this is an insectivorous animal, that is, the animal does not feed on potatoes, beets or carrots, no.
In terms of nutrition, the mole leads an exclusively predatory lifestyle. This is a merciless hunter of almost all types of insects, their larvae and all kinds of worms that the animal can find in the soil. This underground glutton is capable of consuming almost 2 times more organic food per day than it weighs.
Thus, someone may have a question, they say, if a mole destroys all sorts of underground rubbish, and at the same time loosens the earth, supplying it with oxygen, why is such a useful animal recorded as a pest.
The answer lies on the surface. Every gardener knows perfectly well how destructive the appearance of such a digger in the garden can be both for the appearance of his plot and for the harvest itself.
Firstly, this animal significantly spoils the appearance of the site, leaving many molehills on its surface. This is a necessity for the mole, because the animal must put somewhere the earth that turned out to be superfluous when laying the next round of the underground system of passages.
And most importantly, the animal is capable of causing serious damage to your gardening, spoiling many plants and harvest items. This is all due to the need of this soil animal to constantly expand its underground boundaries by digging and creating many intertwined passages and highways for movement.
While making its passages, the animal involuntarily touches the root systems of plants, including tubers and root vegetables, such as carrots, potatoes and beets.
This digger also spoils the roots and crops in the process of hunting and feeding, often grabbing a little of the plant itself along with the earthworm that has settled in the plant’s root system.
That is why gardeners do not like these funny animals so much, and, having learned about the appearance of a mole on the site, they immediately take all possible measures to eliminate the problem.
Basic methods of struggle
To get rid of moles on your property, it is not enough to fill up their holes or catch a few furry pests. Some farmers use harsh methods to quickly drive away “diggers” from the garden. But most often, summer residents choose humane methods of protecting their garden plots.
Experienced farmers advise not to expel moles from garden beds too early, since in the spring the animals destroy the larvae of pests that overwinter in the soil and weed seeds. In this case, the animals help the farmer. He himself removes everything unnecessary on the soil surface.
It is best to start fighting moles in your summer cottage shortly before planting cultivated plants. Many farmers know that the most effective way to expel underground pests is a combination of folk remedies and trapping devices created using modern technologies.
Repelling moles
You can get rid of moles in your summer cottage once and for all if you know what causes them fear and use it against the animals. Many farmers choose to scare away animals with homemade devices, combined with natural aromatic products.
Such innovative devices are widely used in summer cottages. They come in two types: stationary and portable. Most often used: RemiLing, Sweeney's.
The most common model is a rod that is immersed 20–25 cm into the ground. Why does such a simple device effectively protect the site? The unit emits ultrasound, which expels underground animals from the territory.
Peg and jar
This is the simplest device available to every summer resident. To do it, you need:
- strengthen a dense core in the soil;
- Place a metal can on the top end of the peg.
The sharp sounds of tins rattling in the wind are not liked by the “underground blind.” They leave the area that has such a strong irritating factor.
Large plastic bottles
To make a repeller, you will need a small segment of a water pipe with an internal cavity. A plastic bottle is placed on such a rod and rotates under the influence of the wind, creating noise on the surface and underground. Moles cannot tolerate sharp sounds and leave.
Homemade and purchased propellers
Such turntables-vanes are often used at dachas. Many farmers use these humane means to expel moles, as they make it possible to leave the animals alive. Pests are afraid of the rattling sounds made by pebbles from a tin can placed on the propeller pin. The vibrating device itself causes panic in animals.
You can make repellers yourself or buy ready-made ones. Industrially produced propellers have instructions describing operation and rules of use.
Homemade electronic repellers
To free a site from moles, devices created by gardeners and gardeners are often used. Such devices run on electricity and are used by farmers who avoid poisoning animals.
How to make an electronic repeller yourself? The work sequence is as follows:
- find at home or buy in a store a small electronic part that makes sharp sounds (crackling, ringing);
- adapt it to run on batteries;
- place the part inside a metal pipe;
- dig the device into the ground, covering it with cloth and half a plastic bottle on top to protect it from dampness.
Homemade electronic repellers are often installed in greenhouses, near large flower beds. They do not require large expenditures, are convenient and functional.
Lethal traps
Let's move on to the darkest topic, but it would be wrong to ignore it. It is not always possible to expel sometimes annoying moles from the site with kindness.
In this case, in order to save the harvest and the appearance of the garden, it is necessary to resort to radical methods of physically exterminating these pests in the summer cottage.
Noose trap
Such a device for capturing and killing an animal can either be purchased in a special store or constructed with your own hands. Typically, such a trap is a wire loop, the method of action of which is to ensure that an animal caught in a deadly funnel cannot escape alive.
Such a trap is installed horizontally in the hole, after which the mole passage is dug in. Once caught in such a loop, the animal usually suffocates or dies from the body being crushed.
Mole masher
The use of shock-pressure traps helps to ensure the destruction of moles on the site quite reliably. In fact, these are ordinary mousetraps, like those installed in the kitchen or in the barn against rodents.
Such a trap can kill a small mole or severely injure the animal, thereby solving the problem, albeit not in the most decent way.
Scat 61 and 62
Models of plunger traps are very cruel in their operating principle, which invariably kill the animal.
The first model works on the principle of a crossbow. That is, by tearing off the leash, the animal releases the spring, which, when lowered, activates several spokes that pierce the mole at once.
The second model is no less scary and destructive for the animal. It works like an ordinary toothed trap for a forest animal, only the purpose of such a device is not to catch the animal by the limb, but to kill a small digger with one blow.
A very effective solution to exterminating moles, but not the cleanest from a moral point of view.
Swissinno (Switzerland)
Another product that kills moles, this time from a Swiss manufacturer. This mole-killing mechanism is reminiscent of the same Skat models, only the murder weapon here is not pins, but a serrated vertically lowering plate that acts like a guillotine.
Electric mole beaters
Until now, we have talked exclusively about mechanical traps for moles, but we almost forgot about the existence of mole traps that kill underground animals using an electric discharge.
This is a fairly effective way of exterminating moles on a site, which, however, is not cheap and requires time spent on installing such a serious electrical protection system, with a constant source of electricity.
Typically, such electrical systems are used by entrepreneurial farmers, since equipping an ordinary summer cottage with a network of electric mole-cutters is neither financially justified nor profitable.
