Effective ways to catch an escaped domestic or wild rabbit

The rabbit is a rather timid animal, also distinguished by its agility and playfulness. Even though a domestic pet may be slower than its wild counterpart, catching a furry pet that has escaped from its cage is not an easy task. The problem becomes more complicated if the fugitive takes refuge in a vegetable garden or garden. There are many ways to catch a rabbit that has jumped out into the street.

How to catch a runaway rabbit

The stressed state of an animal can be easily determined by external signs: the rabbit begins to stand on its hind legs, stretching out its ears, and looks around warily. Or the long-eared animal presses itself to the ground, knocking with its hind legs. This behavior signals that the timid creature is frightened and is ready to run away at any second.

To prevent your pet from attempting to escape, you should pay attention to its behavior. In case of fright, eliminate the factors that provoke the animal’s stress. They can scare him:

  • the appearance of a new animal in the house;
  • loud sounds;
  • sudden movements.

If your pet gets scared and runs away, you don’t need to run after it. This can scare him even more. It is enough to lure the rodent to the cage by putting its favorite treat there.

If an animal takes flight in the absence of its owners, it is advisable to think through the trajectory of its movement before searching for the pet. Perhaps the animal is hiding somewhere in a secluded place. Usually he tries to find familiar places when trying to escape. If detected, you need to slowly approach the furry pet, bend over and try to calm it down by talking and stroking it. You should never make sudden movements or grab the animal by the scruff of the neck when it does not see it.

Materials for rabbitry

The first thing you should prepare when planning to make rabbit hutches with your own hands is to purchase all the necessary materials and tools. At this stage (as at all others) you can’t mess around. Poor quality materials will lead to serious problems later, even if the rabbitry itself is assembled according to all the rules.

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The materials for the rabbitry will be quite varied, but you can easily get them at any hardware store. So, here's what it takes to build a rabbit cage:

  • Thick plywood or boards for walls;
  • Wooden bars - supports and frame;
  • Fine mesh (about 2 by 2 cm) for the floor and walls;
  • Reiki - for the floor;
  • Boards, mesh or plywood - for the roof of the cage;
  • If the rabbitry will be built in an open area, use roofing material (linoleum, smooth slate, polycarbonate).

In terms of the necessary tools for building at home, there is also nothing supernaturally rare: a hammer, a tape measure, a screwdriver, a construction stapler. nails, self-tapping screws, screws, hinges, latches, feeders and drinking bowls.

Having purchased all the necessary materials, you should once again make sure of their quality. Dried or cracked boards, mesh with bent or sharp parts, slate with defects - all this should not be used when making a rabbitry with your own hands. In addition, even high-quality materials may require additional processing. In particular, it is advisable to carefully sand all wooden parts to avoid splinters on the rabbits' feet in the future.

In addition, there is another important point. We must remember that rabbits are rodents, and chewing through thin wood is not a problem for them, so the thickness of the bars for the frame, as well as the floor slats, should be at least 2 - 2.5 cm.

Catching a rabbit in the garden or garden

Catching a furry animal in the garden becomes somewhat more complicated, since the area of ​​the area for the animal to maneuver increases significantly. Once in the garden, the rodent becomes the main pest: it eats the leaves of trees, shrubs, and crops. It is useless to run after a rabbit around a personal plot, this will only make the animal more frightened, and the owner will needlessly lose strength.

In order not to harm the rabbit, it is enough to follow a few rules:

  1. They preliminarily assess the situation and study the tracks left by the animal on the site. Usually, out of habit, a pet chooses a place to hide in the area of ​​bushes.
  2. Having calculated the location of the pet, they set up a cage with a feeder, and put the rabbit’s favorite treat in it.
  3. The animal is lured with food by laying out a path of pieces of treats leading to the house.
  4. Food is added several times a day so that the pet gets comfortable and feels confident around the cage.
  5. If attempts to catch the animal are unsuccessful within a week, the house with food is moved to another place.

Assembling the rabbitry

Having completed the preparation of materials, you can proceed directly to construction. When assembling a rabbitry with your own hands, it will be completely useful to have a photo of a diagram or drawing available. Plus, you should consider where the cage will be installed - indoors or outdoors. The general size of rabbit houses varies somewhat, depending on the breed being raised. However, for one cage with two sections (male/female, plus a manger for hay), the dimensions must be no less than the following: width - 70 cm, height - 50 cm, length 1.5 m. These are the minimum parameters, and for For large breeds, such as the gray or white giant, it is better to increase the size by about one and a half times.

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Each tier of one section is divided into three unequal parts. The side ones are the cages themselves, the length of which should be at least 60 cm. In the center, between them, there will be V-shaped mesh mangers for hay. The rabbit cages themselves are also divided into sections. The larger one, located closer to the hay barn, is made with a slatted floor and lattice walls for ventilation. The smaller one is a warm master bedroom, with blank walls, a solid floor and a round entrance. Assembled from thick plywood or chipboard.

Legs, approximately 0.3-0.4 m high, are nailed to the resulting frames, and after them comes the turn of the doors. They are twisted using slats and screws (the assembly process is more accurately shown in numerous photos). The doors are located at the “walking” part, and are also mesh. The mesh is usually attached with a construction stapler - simply, conveniently and reliably. The doors are hung on hinges, and latches are attached to them. The best option for the opening method would be “top-down”, and not the classic sideways one, because it is with this method that the cage is easiest to clean. Therefore, it is better not to skimp on the size of the door. If there is a bedroom, the rabbit will climb into it rather than try to escape.

Having finished with the cells themselves, you can make hay fields. First, rectangular frames are assembled from boards, and a mesh is attached to them using a construction stapler. Then they are installed in the space between the cells in the shape of the Latin letter V. After this, it’s time for the final touch. This is the installation of pallets in the gaps. They are installed at an angle, tilted forward, to make it easier to remove manure. Finally, if the rabbitry had to be built outside, due to the lack of a room/pavilion, it is covered with the selected roofing material. That's all, the cage is ready for commissioning.

How to catch a wild specimen with your own hands

It is extremely difficult to catch a wild animal in its natural habitat. An animal that has evolved throughout its development has learned to adapt in the wild and hide from danger.

Racing after an eared animal will only lead to a loss of energy and time. To catch him, you will need to make a trap. To do this, use one of four options for making a trap.

Silky

To make a standard trap you will need 1-1.5 meters of brass wire. A loop with a diameter of 5-7 centimeters is twisted from it. To do this, bend it closer to the edge and make 5-6 turns around the long part. The long end of the wire is threaded into a loop and twisted in a similar way. A strong rope is passed through the ring and fixed to the tree.

The prepared snare is installed in natural arches in places where furry animals most often live. To do this, find a rabbit trail - the area where the animal most often runs. If there is no natural arch, it is made independently by trimming branches. The loop is placed 10-15 centimeters from the ground. The sides of the trap are slightly covered with branches so that the rabbit does not sense danger.

Snare for hares features

Using loops, hunters make a variety of devices that have improved catchability compared to the usual loop method of hunting. Sometimes they are separated into a separate group of traps called “snares,” but often a simple loop is also called a snare.

It’s unlikely that anyone knows all the possible designs, because each region has historically developed its own fishing methods, suitable for local conditions. Let's consider some options for loop traps (snares) with active action.

One of them is “overweight”. Its purpose is to lift the hare, already trapped, above the surface of the earth. The animal loses its support, and it becomes much more difficult for it to escape. In addition, this protects the prey from damage by predators (Figure 3).

Figure 3. Snare “spring” (left) and “overweight” (right)

It is not difficult to build a trap in the forest: you need to take a fairly long and heavy stick and fasten it to a nearby tree so that the thin end can be tilted towards the place where the trap is installed. We hang our loop from the thin end. Then we fix it in such a way that the pole cannot release spontaneously, but easily slips out of the hook under external influence. Then it is clear: the hare, caught in the noose, will begin to try to free itself, pull off the fastening and, under the influence of the far, heavy end of the advantage, hang neatly in the air.

Another interesting type of snare is usually called a "spring". Essentially, it is a loop attached to the end of a bent branch or sapling. It is held in a bent position using a special trigger mechanism. By stepping on a guardhouse (or getting caught in a noose), an animal or bird, in our case a hare, triggers the mechanism: the tree quickly straightens, tightening the noose around its prey. The guard can be a twig, a thread, or another option, depending on the specific design. With the help of such a trap, it is possible to catch a live hare: for this, a loop is placed on the surface of the earth. Thus, the animal will be caught by the legs, and can remain alive for up to two days.

There are countless options for the trigger mechanism of the described designs; each hunter uses his own, proven by personal experience. To understand the principles of their manufacture and installation, it is better to watch the corresponding videos.

Useful tips

To easily catch a pet or wild animal, just follow these simple recommendations:

  1. Long-eared rodents have an excellent sense of smell, so they smell human smells from afar. When catching an animal, you need to approach it carefully, without sudden movements or displays of aggression.
  2. Rabbits are very fast animals that can develop good speed. To make your task easier when fishing, the free space is reduced. To do this, obstacles are installed so that the rabbit cannot move further. It is much easier to catch a pet in a small area.
  3. If attempts to catch a rodent are unsuccessful, a specialized service will help.

In catching a furry animal, it is not strength that is important, but intelligence and ingenuity. Only by cunning can you catch an active animal in the garden or in the wild. The main thing in the hunting process is not to harm the rabbit.

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The rabbit escaped: how to catch it in the house

Even a tamed rabbit can escape from its owner. Having got out into the wild and felt the smell of freedom, he is in no hurry to return to the cage. When catching a fugitive, do not rush. Sudden and careless movements will only increase the rabbit’s fear and provoke it to seek refuge outside the territory. On the street, he risks being injured, being run over by vehicles, or becoming prey to predatory animals.

In order for your attempt to catch your pet to be successful, you should learn to recognize signals indicating changes in the rabbit's behavior . An anxious state of a rodent is manifested by the following actions:

  • Nervous tapping of the hind legs signals the desire to rush away at any moment, fleeing danger.
  • A stance on the hind legs, an elongated body and raised ears indicate curiosity caused by extraneous sounds.
  • A body pressed closely to the ground means fear provoked by a loud sound or the sight of a predator.

The last of these positions is the most favorable for catching a fugitive, because in most cases the paralytic effect of fear can temporarily immobilize the rabbit. The owner can only quietly approach the animal and take it by the scruff of the neck.

If the owner has previously trained the pet to respond to sound signals, problems with catching are not expected. The owner just needs to call the animal and offer it a treat. For the sake of their favorite food, rabbits are more willing to return to their cages.

The situation is more complicated if the pet is out of sight. Then you need to carefully examine the cracks and secret places nearby.

How to catch a rabbit in the garden or garden

Catching a furry pet in the house is a difficult task, but it can be done. It is much more difficult to catch an animal that has gotten out into the wild and is exploring the expanses of a personal plot. The larger the territory, the more room for maneuver the animal has.

To catch a rabbit in the garden or vegetable garden, you should not run after it, wasting your energy in vain. Fishing will be productive and without harm to the health of the animal if you listen to the following tips:

  1. First you need to assess the situation and establish where the animal is hiding. Usually, the animal instinctively chooses bushes for shelter to hide from danger.
  2. Having calculated the trails and places of greatest activity from the tracks, set traps with the rabbit’s favorite food.
  3. Lure the animal to the place of capture with food laid out in the form of a path leading to the trap.
  4. For the trap to work effectively, you should periodically add food to it and check it 2-3 times a day.
  5. If attempts to catch the animal over the course of a week have been fruitless, the trap is moved.

Effective control measures

There are many ways to get rid of moles in the garden:

  • Sound methods in the form of self-made pinwheels made from plastic bottles will not always help get rid of moles. To effectively influence underground inhabitants, a constant presence of wind is required.
  • Ultrasonic repellers, which can be purchased at specialized gardening stores. More effective, they act on moles without the intervention of external factors. Disadvantage - they can act as irritants on humans.
  • Aromatic methods. The area is planted with black beans or imperial hazel grouse - the unpleasant smell emitted by the roots of the plants will help get rid of uninvited guests. Also for these purposes, rotten fish, meat, garlic or rags, previously soaked in gasoline, kerosene, or tar, are placed in underground passages.
  • The usual barriers are in the form of underground fences that prevent the animal from further moving.
  • Use of poison. To get rid of underground pests, stores offer various poisonous products that emit odors that are pleasant to the mole’s sense of smell. The poison can be mixed independently with crushed dried worms or insects, and the prepared substance can be carefully placed in the place where the animal is supposed to move.
  • Dog baiting. In addition to barking, moles cannot tolerate the feeling of danger when they are being hunted.
  • You can also get rid of moles using a watering hose, placing it directly in the hole you made. If you first scatter carbide along the length of an underground tunnel, then after the substance comes into contact with water, the effect of a gas chamber is formed. It should be noted that this method involves a long and painful death of the mammal.
  • Installed traps and traps will help get rid of moles in the garden. If the first option implies the instant death of an underground inhabitant, then the second is a more humane method and is suitable for those who are wondering how to catch a mole without harming it.

Traps for wild rabbits

Unlike a domestic animal, it is almost impossible to catch a wild one with your bare hands. An animal that, throughout its evolutionary development, has learned to run away and hide from its pursuers, prefers to keep its distance from humans.

In order not to chase the animal to the point of complete physical exhaustion, you need to outwit it . To do this, you need to construct a trap. Rabbits are not known for their intelligence, so catching them using a trap is a completely solvable task.

In order not to use traps that will harm the health of the animal, you should turn to more humane methods. To catch a wild rabbit, it is enough to make and use one of the four proposed designs.

Silky

You can make a snare from soft and durable steel wire. Even a child can handle making a trap:

  1. To make a rabbit snare you will need 100–150 cm of wire.
  2. A loop with a diameter of 5–7 cm is twisted at one end. To do this, the wire is bent closer to the edge. To fix the resulting small loop, a short section is wrapped 5–6 turns around the long section.
  3. The long end of the wire is threaded into a loop and the same loop is twisted at its end. A string is passed through this ring and the snare is fixed to the tree.
  4. The diameter of the large loop is 20 cm.

Installation

A few simple tips:

  1. Loops and snares must be installed using objects from the surrounding vegetation, as secretly as possible. If it is necessary to install it in a field, in the absence of forests and bushes, it is better to drive a peg firmly into the ground, or use a “potassk” - a long and thin stick that the hare can drag along with it until it hits something. will get caught.
  2. The working diameter of the loop depends on the expected size of the prey, approximately 22-28 cm. A loop of a smaller diameter will work behind the neck, and will quickly cause the death of the animal. However, the excessively small size often forces the hare to bypass the trap.
  3. To avoid spontaneous tightening, after setting the required size of the loop, you should make a small bend that secures the movable ring, without interfering with the operation of the trap.
  4. When installing, it is optimal to place the loop 15-20 cm above the surface of the path. To fix the loop in space, we use the existing small branches; if necessary, you can stick additional support points into the snow next to the path.
  5. A wire loop screwed directly to the support can be fixed using its own rigidity. However, a wire that is fixed rigidly can be broken by a scurrying hare. To avoid this, a second small loop was made (see above “how to make a loop with your own hands”): a strong rope or cord is tied to it, and with its help the trap is secured in place.
  6. It is better to stick several branches on the sides of the guarded loop, imitating thickets. They will direct the oblique one in the direction we need.

Useful tips

To successfully catch domestic escapees or wild rabbits and hares, the following recommendations will be useful:

  1. When approaching a caught animal, they move quietly and slowly, without jerking.
  2. When placing the bait, it is not recommended to touch it with bare hands. Wild animals have an excellent sense of smell, and a foreign smell will scare off a rabbit.
  3. To prevent escapes of domestic animals, you need to visit and count your pets more often.
  4. If attempts to catch the animal are unsuccessful, you can resort to the help of special services that have the appropriate tools.

Catching a rabbit is not an easy task. But using dexterity and simple devices created with your own hands, it is quite possible to do this.

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Step-by-step instruction

When everything you need is available, you can get to work:

  1. Cut the measured length of the beams. On a flat surface, put together the frame of the structure from the prepared blanks. In the case of a multi-tiered structure, be sure to provide a space of up to 15 cm after each of the tiers for installing a pallet.
  2. Connect the front and rear beams with transverse slats. This is the basis for the cell.
  3. Measure 4 legs for the rabbit house from the prepared wooden blocks. Pin them to the resulting wooden rectangle so that there is a height margin of 30–40 cm to the floor.
  4. Measure the slats for the door and use screws to connect them. Then cover the resulting frame with mesh. Fasteners are made from the inside using a construction stapler.
  5. Measure the required length of the boards and cut the blanks. Cover the frame of the cage with them.
  6. Hang the doors on the hinges and provide a latch on it. It is convenient when the structure opens from top to bottom.
  7. Inside the center of the cage, attach a V-shaped hay barn, dividing the space into 2 sections.
  8. Now you can start building the blind pen. Many rabbit breeders build it with a removable plywood bottom to prevent increased dampness inside the cage. Therefore, this part of the house must be made entirely of boards or plywood.
  9. Between the nesting and walking areas, install a plywood partition with a hole for residents to pass through.
  10. After that, make a solid door in the blind part of the cage, also attaching it to the hinges. Don't forget to attach a latch to it.
  11. Mount the roof from boards or slate. It is desirable that it be folding. Therefore, experienced owners advise using hinged hinges as fasteners.
  12. Now lay the floor at the bottom of the slatted structure, leaving 1.5 cm gaps between them. If you retreat more, animals can get stuck in the openings and injure their paws. As an alternative, a mesh with small cells is suitable, but then you will need to provide a mat.
  13. Build a low tray of appropriate dimensions from a metal sheet and place it under the cage. Some manufacturers advise placing this part at an angle to make cleaning easier.

Video: DIY rabbit cages

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